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If you’re having trouble lining up/connecting the window clamps/bolt with the actual regulator read this comment!!! Seems like a lot of people are having trouble with this step and I’m not sure why every single video leaves this part out, but as you’re probably aware the window doesn’t just easily push down once you have the new regulator connected, therefore making it hard to reinsert the bolt that holds the window together with the regulator. Here’s how to fix: 1) Make sure your window glass is inserted and all the way up. I used a suction cup to hold the window in place, but you can probably get by with duct tape. 2) Make sure you’ve reconnected the actual power window motor to the new regulator. 3) Now this is the actual tricky part that took me hours to figure out. Reconnect ALL the paneling and wiring necessary so that you can actually plug in the main connector of the power window motor (white plug) to the actual door panel that has the window up/down buttons. 4) Once that is plugged in, power on the electrics of your car and test the up/down buttons. If you’ve reconnected everything correctly, you should now be able to lower/raise the window regulator clamps that hold the window in place. 5) Using the buttons, lower the clamps just enough so that the bolt’s hole (idk what to call it) lines up with the hole you’ll be sticking the bolt through. You’ll have to disconnect the power window plug from the door panel and remove it to see if you’ve lined it up correctly. This may take a few tries. 6) Once it’s lined up, disconnect the main connector of the power window motor from the door panel and set the panel aside. 7) Using your hands to hold the window in place, you can now remove the suction cups/duct tape to carefully lower it until it meets the clamp you’ll be bolting together. (Since you’ve already lowered it, you should be able to see the grooves the window slides into on the sides. Make sure the glass is inside of those grooves.) 8) Now that everything’s lined up, you can successfully insert the bolt. 9) You can now continue with reconnecting everything and you’re done. 10) Drink a beer and pat yourself on the back because you just did a $1000 repair by yourself If this helped, like this comment so others can see it. And also, fuck Kia!!! TLDR: You need to reconnect the power so you can lower the window grooves enough to where they line up with the holes you’ll be sticking the bolt through.

How do you align the window properly to the screw support? Mine isn’t aligning properly and it’s driving me crazy

what impact did u youse wanna make sure I have enough ugga dugga before I do mine

You skipped the hardest part reattaching the wires on the spool.

What a great ride!

Same car same door broken lol

My window just stopped working. After researching results.. I’m assuming the regulator and the motor are attached together? And not separate parts?

thanks for help

What a time

When you remove the back cover to expose the screws holding down the lid hinge. How do you get that to pop off? I tried the same technique you did in the video but I could only get it to pop off at the top and not the sides. On the verge of damaging it when trying to remove, even with the plastic tools, please help.

Great video and I want you to know I've had to replace both back doors within 2yrs. Just finished replacing my right side today!

Always have an O-ring pick. It makes things 100% easier.

That actually looks very easy. Thanks

You didn’t show how to put the new regulator on. Ugh that’s the important part.

mine doesnt just pop out

Looking to replace mine, where did you get the replacement at? Thanks!

My rear right window randomly stopped responding to all power requests from driver panel and passenger panel to go up or down. I'm wondering if that indicates it's just the motor that is bad or the whole regulator panel.

Bs. How to remove window from the mechanism? Nobody ever shows that.

Can you show how to replace the USB/aux import?

where did u buy the cover

Where did you get the parts from

do u have a link for the cover

Dude please don't chew gum when making a video :)

Great what I'm stuck on you did with the $oor panel facing away from camera. Stuck on how to disconnect latch lock cables

Would it be necessary to disconnect the car battery before working this kind of replacement? Mine is a Kia Optima LX so pretty much the same parts. I've already had to replace the trunk latch; it was plug-n-play for the sensor cable so I didn't need to cut the battery...

Where do you buy

What about wrapping the cables

My bike did the exact same thing 2002 I cracked open the carburetor jetted up the main jet and the idle jet runs like a raped ape now..

Where did you get the new console lid? Any chance you have the old one and can video the lid disassembly? In other words, is the material replaceable?

Your video might apply differently for cars that have console air vents in the rear of the center console. In that case, The whole center console floor assembly has to be removed entirely.

"Always ware proper riding gear" is not shorts and tennis shoes.... doh...

I got same bike

Thinking about buying one of these I can get cheap. I'm a sport guy and only 34hp. Not sure if it will bore me but I also want to keep my cdl so I can't get anything too fast.

You guys So smart Big thanks 🙏🏾

Thanks for the Blast fix video.

Ok dude let me guess... it worked for awhile then same issue. You need to check your engine mounts since they support the whole weight of the engine and transmission. The one under your oil fill has a rubber in it that wears out. When this happens the engine sags and pulls the rubber boot off between the carb and the motor. I have done mine 2 times. The first I paid someone else to do. When it went bad the next year I did it myself.... this one actually is the one that still works. As with any issue I have found it pays to fix it yourself. Check your frame supports on the engine.

As others commented you put the gasket on wrong. So it's not easy to put together if you don't have parts oriented the correct way. Hopefully you read their comments and realized your mistake.

Definitely a very slow bike

Mine has left me stranded twice now, all of the same issues. I'll give this a try! Thanks for the video!

I had two of these bikes. I loved them. I used them as a commuter bike in the city. They are bullet proof.

I know its been a year since the video was uploaded but the gasket sticks to the air box then its screwed in bro.

What's the name of the gasket you replaced?

Can anyone tell me the torque spec on the 2 intake manifold-to-cylinder bolts? I have the official Buell service manual and Connor find this spec in it for the life of me.... Thanks in advance!

someone stole the buell muffler off that bike

Ur putting it on wrong. That's the exact one I have.

How has it held up?

I have just bought an 09 buell blast it starts fine and will idle all day long but as soon as I twist the throttle it wants to stall it has sat for several months before I bought it could that be the main jet

proper riding gear like cargo shorts lmao

Don't ever use sand paper to get off the old gasket material. That part is made of soft aluminum. Instead, use the 75 cent cheap little BRASS brushes they sell in the paint brush section at Harbor Freight. You must use the brass brush, and NOT stainless or steel brushes, because the brass bristles will not scratch aluminum. You can use the brass brush along with a solvent, like gasoline, to scrub the gasket mating surface clean.

Do you stillhave the Buell blast??? How is it doing today? Is it still running good?