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This one here: wowstick Precision Electric Screwdriver - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JHZK9RW

@@d7logic thanks buddy! How is the torque on this one? I read that the ones powered with alkaline batteries have low torque and this one seems to be Lithium battery.

@@fernanzgz You sometimes have to twist it manually but that's not a big problem. I use this daily for laptop repairs and would highly recommend it.

Thank you!

Thanks - No UV reactive satin tubing nor diodes as far as I know.

Thank you - Glad to hear this video helped you :)

This is down to your personal preferences. There are many posts online i.e. reddit, where people got responses from NVIDIA saying that it won't void the warranty unless they can prove that you damaged the card. In the event of an RMA or Repair during the warranty period, they want you to put the stock cooler back before sending it back to them. However, you can contact NVIDIA support directly to be on the safe side.

Thank you. It's very efficient and allows for great overclocking while keeping the temps low and stable.

Thank you. It's the Corsair Hydro X Series XL5 Performance Coolant (Blue).

@@d7logic Ok thanks!

Various Tool Kit - i.e. 117 in 1 Magnetic Precision Screwdriver Set and Acenix Opening Pry Tool. You can find these on eBay. The electric screw driver is from Amazon called "wowstick Precision Electric Screwdriver" - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JHZK9RW

@@d7logic thanks bro

when i flush my loop i use my mounth and get a really red face to blow out all of the water lol

Thank you

Thank you - Either through the BIOS or Corsair/ASUS Software. You need to connect a temp sensor to read the temperature.

Why?don't like the block?

Amazon - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HK86YFB

The 10900K is still a beast and works great with the RTX4090. Recently played Resident Evil 4 Remake, with 99% GPU and 28% CPU being utilised with over 142 FPS on MAX Settings with a Samsung Odyssey G9 Neo. Please note, GPU was on Stock Clock (Power Draw 375-390W, Coolant at 39C). With OC, my coolant went up to 53C, Power Draw from GPU was around 512-527W, with an average FPS of 184. Wasn't worth the jump so I switched back to Stock Clock, which is still impressive. The only bottleneck for me was the overall cooling, as it seems that my 2 rads are not enough to cool this GPU properly when overclocked. The coolant started to bubble a lot and I turned off OC asap to avoid possible damage.

It's the wowstick Precision Electric Screwdriver - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JHZK9RW

⁠​⁠@@d7logic Thank you sir. This is a great video, although I have one suggestion you should have emphasized a higher degree of accuracy when you take off the leaf spring. How it popped quite dramatically seems like something could be damaged if you don’t drive them completely out by hand very slowly until it pops then slowly take it them off. I was honestly quite shocked.

@@Bertis87 Thank you for your suggestion. I agree it may look like that, but please be assured that I removed the 4 screws in cross-pattern very slowly to ensure the spring doesn't pop off with force. The last screw was simply stuck and the video is fast forwarded. But you are absolutely right, taking off the leaf spring requires a higher degree of accuracy to avoid possible damages. Glad you pointed that out.

@@d7logicdo you have a reassembly video? I need to put it back into the graphics card now

@@Bertis87 Unfortunately not, sorry.

Thank you, its the Asus Rog Helios Black

Thank you :)

BARROW G1/4 FLOW INDICATOR / METER WITH LRC 2.0 RGB LIGHTING [SLFV1-RGB-B]

Thank you, glad to hear that :)

Hi what did you hook the rgb cables up to?

@@deeezuz I haven’t been able to connect the RGB’s yet. Still trying to figure that out

This

Hi, I just checked and no it doesn't light up. Seems like there aren't independent LEDs on the 4 squares. The light comes slightly through the main water block - it's stronger on the left side than on the right. I did not notice that since I have the GPU mounted vertically.

@@d7logic Same thing here, just wanted to make sure mine wasn't defective. Kind of looks like it is the same independent LEDs as the Dominator RAM. KK Thanks for the info! I loved you install video!

@@MDog_FPV Thank you! Yes it's quite odd but I am glad you pointed that out, otherwise I would have thought the same, it being defective :)

Thank you :)

Thank you. My golden rule when bending - I measure the edge (far left) from one fitting to the other (far right), take 1.9cm off, that's the spot where I hold it above the heat gun, rotate it until it starts to bend slightly, then hold it for another 10-15seconds further away on each side (2-3cm) to ensure no bubbles/kinks while bending and that works for me spot on, mostly. For multiple bends, ensure that you do not put much heat near the first bend, and use a measurement board or anything similar to ensure the tubes are straight like I did in the video (for a mix of horizontal and vertical bend). Don't rush, take your time, if you didn't get it right the first time, carefully re-heat, hold it about 10-12cm above the heatgun, rotate until it starts to collapse, then carefully re-bend, don't stretch to hard. As mentioned, the measurement board really helps if you missed by a few millimetre. Good luck :)

2 Radiators: 1x 360mm, 1x 420mm Watch our RTX 4090 Upgrade Video - th-cam.com/video/4njGOi55Wzk/w-d-xo.html IDLE - GPU: 29-33 °C (Stock Clock, non-OC) CPU: 34-39 °C Coolant: 29-33 °C GAMING (Shadow of the Tomb Raider, Cyberpunk 2077, AC Valhalla) - GPU: 47-52 °C (Stock Clock, non-OC) CPU: 64-67 °C Coolant: 37-39 °C BENCHMARK (Furmark) - GPU: 57-59 °C (Stock Clock, non-OC) GPU Hot Spot: 69 °C GPU Memory: 50 °C GPU Power: 434 Watts Coolant: 40-42 °C

@@d7logic Not bad, pretty much the same as my overpriced EK 3090 blocks for a Strix 3090 running at similar TDP.