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Great Job! Great series!

amazing .

I've been thinking about making a new harness for my HW-100.

I learnt to do lacing using nylon waxed cord, in the end used to love doing it. used to make the cableforms for avionic equipment that went in to the cockpit. it was broken down in to lots of stages, and after every stage it had 100% inspection. 1. cut, strip and tin wires. 2. put on ident sleeves. 3. solder wires to any sockets. 4. put heatshrink on socket connection and shrink. 5. lay wires on to wiring pin board for that harness. 6. finally get to lace the harness. i was about 17 at the time and it took quite a few weeks to get to the point of not getting a laced harness rejected by inspection. 🙂

So glad you decided to lace the harness. I have redone harnesses in Collins and Drake gear and as you mentioned the process moves along quickly. I really enjoy your channel and look forward to more of your video's. If you didn't find the article regarding a simple circuit to exercise a sticky meter, let me know and I'll dig through some of my old mags and see if I can find it. Though the circuit is very simple and easy to throw together. As I recall, you simply switched a positive LOW V then a neg. V and use a pot(s) to prevent too much travel in both directions. I jury rigged something years ago and fixed several meters. Exercising the meter back and fort for 30 mins to an hour did clear whatever was causing the problems. It was either contamination or oxidized wiring. 73, Glenn WA4AOS

Why carbon comp resistors? They drift in value more than metal film. Metal film also are lower inductance. Great videos.

Great video! Where did you find the lace?

this is what me and my friend group nerd out about

You'll have to excuse me for laughing at using an Arduino to replace a 555.

Some say gun or sewing machine oil is a good lubricant for the bushings as they are "non-gumming" lubricants. I would have been scratching my head if that meter cycling test actually worked. 👍

Great video! You are doing a great job with your explanations and tutorial! I hope one day you will do a National NC-183D receiver

Adrian Looking forward to next video nice to finally get news on your progress. Really enjoy your channel. Thanks so much 73s Mike wb7qxu

Looks very good. I built one in 1977 along with an HR-10B.

A slightly cheaper alternative line voltage monitor on Fleabay is the RCA WV-120A / VIZ WV-120B models. Slightly smaller form factor, larger font on the meter, 120V center scale highlighted in red, and the meter needle is painted red as well to make it much easier to read at a distance. Scale is narrower, 100 to 140v, and uses a simpler resistor divider network internally. I haven't had time to calibrate it, but I suspect it will be slightly worse that the Heath due to the simpler design. My intent is to adjust it for maximum accuracy @ 120V as that's the voltage of primary interest, and they're really being used more in a relative mode vs absolute accuracy. It typically runs between 119 to 123V here, I've haven't seen it hit 125, but I've only had it for a few weeks so the sample is small. For my needs the far larger scale on the RCA's wins the day, and ironically the blue paint almost matches the blue paint on my Heath SM-5228 VTVM's & SP-2717A's.

Great video always love your channel thanks for exciting video

Great video = thanks! How complicated would an Automatic VAC Line Voltage Regulator be to DIY? Something that would automatically hold the line voltage at an adjustable voltage... Settable between say 95VAC to 135VAC... If that's doable for an EE hobbyist, please consider the topic for a video. Thanks. Cheers.

Nice work! What value safety caps (x caps?) did you use on there? I haven’t done much of that.

I always wished for a Adventurer ! I have a knight kit t 60 instead ! I do not know why but I just wish my T 60 were a Adventurer instead ! I a huge ef johnson fan and a Adventurer would match my Matchbox ! Great videos 73

FYI: Many years ago there was an article in one of the Ham radio mags, maybe 73 or possibly QST, about meter "stick-ation," and a simple 2 or 3 transistor circuit with a 555 timer and a few pots to get a meter to swing full scale and back to zero, over and over. The idea was to work out possible contamination or oxidation issues. I used it once to exercise an old meter on something I was repairing, forget what now, but after swinging the needle back and forth for an hour or so, the meter was fine. With the 555 you could set the speed to swing slow or quick and set it to swing back in different ranges on the meter face if desired. This would make a good episode to rig up a simple circuit to do the same. It may help others with the older meter sticking issues out there. I'd encourage you to at least give it a shot. 73, Glenn WA4AOS

Excelent Job!

Nice, thank you. I have the 30m version.

I like the nitty gritty, thank you for making this

That chassis could be electroplated. A little research into the subject could produce a satisfying outcome.

Very encouraging video on Drake R4B restoration been following your difficulties enjoyed this very much 73s Mike

👍👍👍👍👍

My math is the same as yours. 0.83mA through the meter. However, it is measuring the bias supply current. I'd assume they are the same as DC can't flow through the coupling cap.

Why not investigate zinc electroplating?

I thought the thumbnail looked familiar. I built this exact kid with my dad in the 90's when I was a teenager!... Good memories - I wish I still had it.

Very nice and educative. I have seen commercial LPF quoting 0.1dB insertion loss for 5 pole or 7 pole filters, is this figure achievable or it's a false claim?

Great finish to your video series.

Thanks. Educational video.

Great video, Daryn! You’ve inspired me to do a complete teardown of my recently-acquired Heathkit IP-32 power supply that I picked up on eBay. Needless to say, the two transformers in the power supply have quite a bit of surface rust on them, but it doesn’t look like the rust penetrated any of the laminations. The transformers test good. Question: Would you suggest using a product like Evapo-Rust to get rid of the rust on a transformer, or should I just wire brush and paint them? Looking forward to hearing from you.j Sincerely, Kenan, KR6J

No watts is the problem ???

I live in the Mid-Atlantic East coast region, and 5 MHz is far from the most reliable WWV freq.

In the schematic at the start I see an error. The in & out marking are switched around on the 7805 voltage regulator.!. 73 Jan -LA3EQ

Check out Wireless World September 1973 for the Homodyne receiver - I'm afraid I can't link to it as the post gets removed.

Thank you for your fine presentation. I am presently trying to restore a HF 40 myself. Can you please advise where and what parts you recommend added to connect a Heath Kit a VF-1? It requires power from the transmitter of 6.3 V ac for the tube filaments, 250-350V DC for the Hot side, and the common. The VFO frequency input is just a polarized plug in on the front of the HF 40. Also can you offer the printed circuit board with or with out parts? KK4BJY

Did anayboy: 1. use the design with an mic input transformer? 2.used it with alectred microphones? 3.designed a build low pass filter? Thank you Regards Peter

The plate current will be low for two reasons, 1 improper alignnment, it can NOT be final- aligned in RX. It must be redone in TX to get proper drive. 2. Drake improperly designed the V4 stage, it destroys the TX mixer 6HS6, see my video on the TR4 mixer failure. The Xmit Gain is much too high 8n the 20m test, it should be about 09:45, showing lack of drive.. Since the VFO does not mix with the L.O in 80m, the low VFO output causes inability to load on 80.

Hello, I saw that your content quality and Thumbnail is also good. But, your channel is not Growing. Then, I analyzed and I saw that in your channel have some problems. That's why your channel is not growing. Mainly, you are not reaching to your targeted peoples, If you can solve these problems your channel will grow like a storm. Also you can generate sales from here, if get views. If you want. Will get reach and views, If you can solve. Can I tell these problems? Can I tell here? Are you allow? And how are you? can I tell here?

Just a note. Looks like you had RX, RF gain maxed out and that's ok on the higher bands, however on 160 - 40 meters back the RF gain down a bit and the RX will not overload as much. Yes the AGC is suppose to throttle the gain but on many rigs of that era it's not as effective. Good luck es 73

A thought on confidence checking your test results apparently outperforming commercial gear on some parameters: it might be useful to perform the same tests with the same testgear on a commercial rig. - If you're still reading unreasonably good results then you know that you have a test setup problem. - If you really are doing better than commercial gear on the parameters in question, then you'll have an evidentiary basis for this. (The same applies with your subsequently-obtained TinySA or any future test equipment acquisitions. Getting results through your test setup that line up with the manufacturer's specifications provides improved confidence in your test equipment, fixtures, and procedures.)

Some b4 and after shots will be great once you get finished. That unit was about ready for the dumpster ! Good for you !!

Looks great so far! Thanks for sharing !

💪👍

Great follow up and love your channel and waiting for the next video very well done and thanks so much for sharing your great videos and learning experience 73s Mike wb7qxu

But it looked so innocent from the front panel! Any time you buy an old boat anchor, you have to assume it's going to look like this inside unless the seller can prove otherwise. Looking forward to the next video!

Great video! I love to see the old equipment I used to see when I was young. I use to look at the heathkit catalogue for hours just dreaming of when I could buy one. Keep up the great work.

I hope you get it working like new I know you can do it, and it would be a great xmitter once you get it new

I modified my DX-60, I added a circuit to put the final tube in a constant current mode to keep the plate ratings normal. Works well knowing you'll never over heat the final amp. Very simple circuit.