วีดีโอ

you can also be sure that someone will not return said item 😁

I probably have everything that's in that kit already, just not the case/holder. If it wasn't for the fact that realistically speaking I just haven't any more room left in my shed, I'd probably still be tempted. I think it's a disease with me...

thats a lot of paint tin openers.. joking aside not a bad starting point, can be sure you will lose the two or three bits you actually use, but to be honest at that price? who cares, its cheaper than getting just the few ones you actually use

Nice to see someone having a similar philosophy to myself! Also you could build a micro layout for these- small layout that’s simple and quick. Would be a fun practise for the main layout!

I have some metal handled scalpels that I use in such cases, but it's a balls-aching job sometimes, and you can't guarantee there'll be no damage unfortunately. Short of finding a suitable paint/varnish solvent that you can apply precisely it sounds like you're going to be doing some very careful laborious cutting over the next week or so. I think no matter how you do it their are going to be some repairs/repainting required. I feel for you. I've learned a few lessons like this the hard way myself. Good luck anyway...

Hi paul I had a roof that was glued with supa glue I used a hobby knife to remove it took a long time but did the job

Hi Paul have a go with a warm hair dryer give I go I’m not saying it will work but maybe

did some of these a decade or two back, the royal pain is finding suitable decals, because if you can replace the decals life is vastly easier. take them apart, life is a lot easier, I then sprayed with an "antique white" colour and then went with a teak woodstain, which took about four or five coats but came out well took an age to do, then reline them, then decals etc but these old coaches can loot remarkable

Maybe just run a craft knife with a new blade along the joins? I've used the same method to open paint pots that have painted themselves shut.

did you use water based paints? maybe stick them in warm water for a while

When I painted mine I ended up taking the roof and sidewalks off then painted them. I waited until they dried before putting them back together.

You might want to try paint thinner ?

Fantastic video. Thankyou for the amazing review of the couplings were delighted to see you were happy with them. The boss has asked if you can contact us with a message on the porterhouse models website or ebay please. 😊

There are a lot of greedy sellers on evilbay forcing prices up, however,some good bargains too. like your video's Paul - please keep them coming

Hi as per my post below. Here is someone who has built a proper 4 wheeled coach from those short 4 wheeled coaches. maybe this will help. th-cam.com/video/kdAA4FKw0kk/w-d-xo.html

Nice improvement on the teak coaches. I done similar to mine using 'Vallejo' Sepia wash and painted the roofs grey. The square axels were, I think old Hornby tooling from the late 1970'/ early 80;s. Unfortunately I don't think you can adjust the back to backs on them! Only option is to replace them, especially if you want to install lights in the coaches. Look forward to the next video.. Regards, John.

I found it a lot easier to take the body shell off, so I could paint without masking.

By the time the teak coaches were withdrawn the roofs were totally black the sides were quite dark BR didn't maintain them much . I once did some teak coach I used a teak light stain then painted the roofs a very dark grey then black washed the sides I copied what I saw in a photo. I think some teak coaches were repainted in BR maroon as a cost saving measure. The Hornby teak coaches you have are made on the cheap ones the square axle was cost cutting measure. It might be better to fit all steel wheels than use the plastic axle ones for lighting the steel rim might not work that well.

woah that isobelle chick sounds great

Hi Paul - I’ve wondered in the past how this would turn out, but I just used Humbrol stain and Varnish for mine, but a good overall result mate 👍🏻

There are a lot of people who have done teak coaches, I have been watching many videos before I put paint to mine. So far the coaches look good. I hate those coupling also, it might be an Idea to replace the end one with a 3 link coupling. I think brushing the wood stain would give a better uneven wood effect rather than airbrushing. if you ar going to light up the interior then you should paint the interior as well.

I've been running DCC since 1979, when Hornby's Zero One (1st generation DCC) came out. I've stuck with Zero One DCC since, as it is ideal for the small, shelf mounted fiddle yard to terminus layouts. I never need to have more than 4 locos under control, so it does for me. Some of my most reliable locos are old Triang, which can be noisy, so sound effects would be pointless.

I modify the old Triang R.660 "Top Tank" clockwork loco body to fit on the old Lima American Porter 0-4-0T loco chassis, to make something more appealing. I've also used a Welso Brimtoy clockwork LNER Y4 body, on a modified Lima Porter chassis, to create perhaps the only OO electric model Y4 loco in the UK. I fail to understand that when everyone else created fictional freelance bodies for their OO clockwork kids toy locos, Welso Brimtoy decided to make a scale correctly detailed model body shell of a real loco.

That locomotive looks like a American Alco RS2/3 I have a few in HO

I had a model railway as a kid for about 10 years. A few years back I cleared out all my childhood toys, etc from my parents house, trainset, lego, etc. During Covid I decided to sell it all on Ebay. However before selling my train stuff I gave all my locos a full service and a run on a test loop and found myself getting back into the hobby. I quickly realised things had moved on a lot since the 1980s. I decided to still sell my locos, the lego, etc and used the cash to start a new layout, but with modern DCC Ready locos. Due to my limited budget I looked on Ebay for second hand stuff. I took my time, did my research to find the going prices and decided to just look for bargains. Many of my early purchases were cheap due to being boxless, having some minor damage/issue that was easily sorted or didn't bother me, were Hornby railroad, etc. Since then whenever I see a better example at a good price I buy that and help fund it by selling the one I have. Because I only buy bargains I can sell these on at a fair, competitive price (I don't ask silly prices) and still make a small profit and this largely pays for the new purchase. Over time I've gradually upgraded my fleet so that now most of my locos are new tooled, mint & boxed high quality locos, but I've done so at minimal cost. My Flying Scotsman is a great example. - I had one from 1978 from my childhood layout which I sold for about £22 on Ebay. I replaced it with an unboxed DCC Ready railroad version for £32. It worked fine and I was perfectly happy with it. - Then one day I spotted the same model boxed and mint and got it for £45 inc P&P. Sold the unboxed one and was very happy to get £48 quid for it, a few quid more than I paid for the mint boxed one!🙂 - Later I saw a high detail Flying Scotsman in the 1924 exhibition livery, mint and boxed. Put in a low bid not expecting to win and got it for £126 inc P&P. Lovely model. Sold the mint Railroad version which went for about £80, which was more than I expected. - Then Hornby brought out their Dublo version with it's diecast boiler, firebox flicker and new loco-tender connection. Looked great but at over £300 not worth upgrading to. Then I saw one being auctioned on Ebay, the exact same 1924 livery as the plastic one I had. Again I put in a low bid not expecting to win but got it for £167. Sold the plastic one which went for £150. In total I bought 4 Flying Scotsman's for a total of about £368 inc P&P. And sold 4 for about £300. So I went from a 1978 Hornby Flying Scotsman to a top of the range Mint new tooled Dublo one and it cost me about £68 instead of over £300!😀 Now this took me several years to achieve and I spend a lot of time trawling Ebay and other secondhand sites for bargains which takes time, effort and patience, but shows what you can achieve on a limited budget if you put the effort in.

🤠👋🚂🗯

🤠👋🚂🗯

That glazing is pretty darn clever!

my God, I thought i'd lost two weeks of my life... 😛 I used to use liquid glazing many years ago, thanks for the share and info, have ordered the glazing

The Lima 0-4-0 shunter is I believe closely based on the American Plymouth DDT switcher, and it's very possible something similar could be in industrial use over here. The other possible loco you may be trying to find is the YEC Janus - there is a OO model by Oxford Rail.

That motor looks interesting!

Great video. Thank you for sharing.

The diesels that had cabs in the middle were called ' Claytons' Class 17 was one a similar designed loco with slightly off centre cab was Class 14 nicknamed ' Teddy Bears'. I have a Class 14 on my layout also the Lima shunter which I repainted and fitted handrails onto it often pulling a heavily weathered long coal wagons. The Lima Molten Steel wagon is mostly correct KR.Models are doing a spinning version and a Clayton to go with it based on the one at Scunthorpe Steel works.

I don't use mine for track cleang/polishing, but, I do use it as a vacuum cleaner. A task it performs very very well indeed. I'm not overly fussed with its electrical pick up system! Although it should be good? I do use CRC Contact lube on the pick ups. That does help make it run better. Also I use mine with dcc and only run it at 3/4 speed (max of 9 volts). I'm going to have to add a "stay alive" to make it run properly. Cheers and thanks for posting.

I have an odd issue with a non-ru no Ng Lima class 31. With the armature out, one of the axles locks in a certain position. Got to be something to do with the gear teeth or flash on their backsides...

Did you know Foster Yeoman imported an American Bo-Bo shunter (switcher) in 1980? Used at the Torr works in Somerset. Do a search for "Foster Yeoman SW 1001" and you'll find it. So, one idea is to refinish your AHM RS3 as a privately owned industrial loco. Just found your channel today and subbed. Lots of interesting stuff!

I got a Lima and the older Bachmann class 20 for about 90 quid all up ( A$180 ) I'll have to repaint the Lima one and I'll also replace the motor but they are good enough for me!

Very handy video as I have a Scotsman I want to do a bit of an upgrade on 👍🏼

nice, we need some more running sessions with Uncle Jed, £80, Dapol are thieves

Great Layout Uncle Jed, sounds like it’s Really Served you well and it certainly doesn’t owe you anything - I’m glad the Cleaner worked ok, I’ve heard different feedback over the years and would hope that it’s better than sliced bread for the Amount they Charge for it & we all know what a Ball Ache Track cleaning can be, tho it can be worth buying New when it’s got a purpose Cheers both 👍🏻

I always bid in the last 3 sec,i got it down to a fine art ;), win some loss some but no second chance

How strange, I was just writing an article on this for my little blog, I'll also link to your channel and video. In case people are wondering, yes the ebay system is rigged, I've experimented with different search options and the variation is high. I'd certainly stay away from specifics unless you want one item as Paul mentions. It's taken me around 8 months to understand what Paul is talking about and I've spent a lot of money in the process. I'm not unhappy about it, i have what I want for my stock, but there are deals to have if you set yourself guidelines and limits. I did see Seagull and another A4 in green last week, and yes, Seagull was lower than many other A4s. Great video

Totals 💯- Looks Like Were Singin off the Same Hymn Sheet & E bay Scrollin can be Great fun if you got some Savvy & Discipline - I had an Under the Radar DRS Class 20 for £28, I also Got an Older BR Green one, both Limas Both Awesome Silent Powerful Runners 40 wagons plus - I’m confident with the Mechanics of Early 80’s Hornby/Lima Locomotives and I’ve learned my Lesson with Mainline & Airfix Loco’s which I will avoid in Future (unless it’s Free) 😉 One of my Current projects is a Rake of old Lima TTA Tankers£5- £7 each, the level of detailing decals and Stickers that are available is Phenomenal, however it’s starting to be a Labour of Love and I’m seeing why Current Models of this type are so Expensive🥴 Great Update Brother Keep em Comin’ 🚂🚞🚞💨💨

Model Railways Unlimited did a couple of videos on H&M controllers.

Shows are better than eBay especially society or club stands.

Use a sniper set your maximum bid and it will bid 5sec before the end of the auction up to your maximum bid.

10 seconds to go, Bid!!!!!!!!

I started in 2018 with A DC Hornby Eastern set and have Added to it bit by bit - A Simple DC System Suits my Layout, the Limits of my Technical knowledge and most of all My Pocket. I don’t Fall for the Hype and IDL paying thru the nose & I like to know that I can fix and Service my Stock myself - I find Passwords and Codes a BallAche, and will do all I can to avoid but hey that’s just me 😅 So DC for me with a Gaugemaster Controller- Simples 🤷🏻‍♂️

I personally wouldn't chip anything now if the actual running of the locos is several years off. Things inevitably move on and in a few years what may be top of the range now, could well be regarded as obsolete. As you say, there used to be 4 pin decoders now they're 24+. As for sound, the only sound fitted locos that I have been impressed by are on the locos produced by SLW and they come ready fitted (with lights etc!). For a really effective sound fitted loco, you really need to be able to run a program that encapsulates the full journey that produces the right sounds at the right time without needing to manually pick each function separately. As far as I know this can't be done....yet! It is also possible that in a few years something will be available that supercedes DCC. Incidentally, you don't need DCC to have working lights etc, it's relatively easy to do with plain DC locos.

My husband dave is with u on the older ones rather than the new ones we also buy loads off smiths pre owned and fix them and the joy of seeing them run is great