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WHAT 'S THE VEGETATION THAT YOU'RE MOWING?

What made you choose Del Morino over other brands, please?

How long did it take for them to build the trailer?

How much does it cost, and what's the difference between this and a Bush hog?

Thank you for your video. I just ordered the 72" Funny top from Good Works Tractor today and looking forward to using it.

Can this be used for a finish mower? Like for the yard as well as for bush hogging?

Just found your excellent video, it’s been a huge help to me since I bought my Funny Top 158 pre-used with no manual or help to set up. Now mine works way better after following your set up advice. I was cutting way too low before and machine was struggling through long, lush grass. Even snapped some belts. Never again. Thanks. Rob in Yorkshire, UK

Thanks for the great video. Got mine delivered yesterday from GWT. I have it assembled, greased, oiled and hooked up to my old Ford 2000 diesel. I'll be ready to work once the rain stops.

Thanks for the detailed tutorial! I have the same model and set it up using your video as a guide without issue. Do you have issues with debris flinging towards the operator when you mow? I find that if I angle the top link to raise the blades numerous small rocks and twigs shoot out towards me. However, if I angle the top link to lower the blades it scalps the grass.

Great video thanks!!

Have you been happy so far with your flail?would you of did anything different?

I would highly recommend either lucas red and tacky or lucas marine grade your implements will thank you and you'll extend your grease intervals

I just bought a Del Morino Funny Super 132 with hammer blades and I love it! I need to replace a few hammer blades, however, and was shocked at the cost. Have you found a good source for blades at a reasonable cost? Thanks!

its a really pain in the ass to drain the oil

💥 I know you’ll be very happy with that flail mower! They cut so nicely. Great video! *Keep on tractoring!*

How much was the trailer

Are you happy with it? I’m in the Palouse

check Kubota 2501

How long did you say it took?

How do you like the r4 tires in snow. You hear a lot of complaints about the tires in snow

Wait until you have belts burn up. Can't remove them, can't install new ones. Happened to me after 8 hrs. I may have to take mine back for a refund.

I just bought the Funny Top and can't find the SAE 140 EP oil for it.

Thanks for the unboxing video. I bought the DelMarino Centurian Super 158 from GWT I think in early June. It's the fully articulated model with hydraulic offset and rotation. I needed the advanced features for mowing a pond bank and both sides of a stream through my property, as well as trimming under low-hanging branches on the perimeter of fields that I can't reach with the bush hog. So mine arrived with no steel shipping frame, and several broken boards on the extended pallet. It made hooking up to the 3-pt hitch difficult. The most difficult problem was a lack of owner's manual, so I was shooting in the dark. One of the guys at GWT sent me a digital copy, but a printed copy would have been better. I got the cast iron gearbox, and another problem was clear : there was no fill/drain/level holes! There is what looks like a vent bolt on the top surface, so I just removed it and put a little over a quart of 90w synthetic gear oil and hoped for the best. Mine has skid shoes on either side of the drum, with three bolt holes for height adjustment front and rear. Because of uneven ground I opted for the highest setting. So first time out was quite a learning curve. Especially with the mower extended out, attention had to be split between what the mower is doing and where the tractor is going. With the three axis to control, plus steering wheel, my arms were flying everywhere! This model has a line of swinging plates (approx. 4"x6" each) along the front of the mower to block flying rocks. I was parked, showing my neighbor how much the mower articulates, several of the plates got jammed in the hydraulic arms that swing it out, and the axle that holds the plates bent! Not a great design. And swung completely out, only about 2/3rds of the mower extends beyond the side of the tractor. I had expected more. So I think you did good with the fixed model. Good luck with it.

Grease the gray 4-bolt flange bearing on the cross shaft left side. Didnt see you grease the pto shaft either(5 points) The roller behind looks to have some sort of adjustment also.

Really nice mower and tractor setup, Brian. Thanks for sharing. I just got a Land Pride flail mower. It works well, but has no offset. I was a bit too hasty getting mine. Also, what’s the name of that spout you have for your diesel can? I can’t find one on the webnets.

I hope you put enough greese in the cutterhead bearings. The grease doesn't go directly into the bearings but needs to fill the cavity around them before the bearing fills. I ruined mine in no time. The belts need more tension then I would have guessed. If they slip very much they fail quickly.

Looks like a nice unit. Don't forget to lube the PTO shaft! I saw a grease zerk on the top side next to the belts too. I'm sure you've seen that one by now. One thing to be cautious about is PTO shaft length. Make sure it won't bind when the implement is moved through its range which would shove the PTO back into the tractor and cause serious damage.

Looking at this same attachment. Why did you choose hammers over knives?

Good job for your first time hooking the pto. There is some 3points quick attach and pto quick couplers if you have extra spare bucks , that can ease the process. Good job and best of luck for your chanel .

Nice set up, but a question for the engineer would be why on Earth would you use an allen key when a 1/2" square would be more convenient and are more common for ag and construction settings.

Any updates on how it’s growing

Hi Brian, an excellent and timely video. I received my Funny Top from GWT a couple months ago. It remains in its plastic wrap since it arrived a lot earlier than anticipated when ordered. Just last night I reread the manual in preparation for putting it into service next week and was lucky to come across your video today. Having you run through the setup is a big help and will get me cutting a lot quicker. The manual, while sufficient, is not broadly detailed. Congrats on your move to Washington, btw -we live on the west side of the state in the San Juan islands.

What horsepower is your Massey i’ve got a 4105 deer running running a 6 foot bush hog and based on how wide your Rear end looks I’m thinking the offset might work I have been looking into flail mowers for a while and this model has kind of made my ears perk up because most of the ones that are adjustable or hydraulic and my tractor has power be on for Abaco but does not have a rear remote for Hydraulic operated equipment

If you have any questions about the Massey Ferguson 1835m, comment below!

If you have any questions about the Del Morino Funny Top 158 or flail mowers in general, comment below!

If you have any grass seeding tips and tricks that I may have missed, please comment below!

What did you buy I didn’t see a follow up video

IDK if you bought something yet, especially considering the inventory situation this year. Disclaimer I got a Kubota L3301 and put a decent number of hours on it, though I still have John Deere stuff. Here is my 2 cent rant and maybe it will help you out (or i'm just wasting my time): It doesn't sound like you're looking at it in the right light. You're doing the novice spreadsheet thing to try quantify which is 'better,' and instead should consider what you're going to do with it. The big question should be will it do the tasks you want and not what do the numbers state. NUMBERS ARE MARKETING. Stuff like loader lift capability are misleading and the brand is trying to suck you into buying their stuff. Here is an example for you...do you really think a 2500 LB tractor can lift 1600 LB 8 foot up 2-3 feet in front? Just think about it practically and also are you going to be doing that. Here is a more practical example: A farmer wants to use a bale spear to move a 1000 bale of hay to then lift it 4 feet into a feeder or a contractor wants to be able to unload + move 3500 LB skids of concrete premix for a job. Or someone with a sawmill wants to move 16 foot 24 inch diameter logs. Now how does this apply to your situation? I can tell you that all of these tractors you are looking at will fill up the bucket with material and lift it all the way up and having rear ballast will help do it safely on slopes. Now if you're using pallet forks to move skids, that's a different question....it's kinda more complicated than it appears due to loader geometry (higher lift = less weight), but in good rule of thumb is after you got forks on, assuming you got the right rear ballast, you 'get off the ground and move' the max lift capability, but you wont be able to lift it into a truck bed. For example, the B2601 tractor CAN move a 1000 LB pallet with material, on flat ground, but it's not going to feel very safe and you're at the limit (not a good thing to do regularly). About lift height... you DONT need to dirt, gravel, or mulch 8 foot in the air unless you're loading a dump truck. Rear lift is pointless to consider. They are all designed to lift an implement properly sized to the tractor. You wont find ANY implements that weight anywhere near 1k LBs for that size tractor. They'll be in the 500 range. What's more important is how height and smoothly they can lift/lower. It would only matter if you're trying to use a forklift in the rear, which just doesn't work well because lift height is so low. Don't eat the BS about tier 4 engines (over 25 HP) being a bad thing. ITS A GOOD thing. Last thing you want to be doing is your lungs filtering diesel soot. Those particles are not only bad for the environment, they are bad for you as the operator. It's so much worse when you're operating at slow speeds, low RPMs, in a barn, indoor shed, and etc. The people 'on forums' complaining about it either 1) got burnt by earlier iterations 'in beta' or 2) it's an emotion thing that helps justify 'keep the HP down' or 'spending less money.' These new system are very reliable and work well. THERE IS NO NEED TO BE SCARED OF THEM BECAUSE OF SOME GUY ON A FORUM. You're not gaining, but LOSING by not having it on your tractor...would you buy a drive a car without catalytic converter? That's all the tractor system is. On HP... yes you are right it's about PTO work, but is it also about moving the tractor's weight + attachment (including backhoe) on grade. I can tell you CERTAINLY wouldn't want a 25 HP kubota moving a loader (1k LB) + backhoe (1k LB) on slopes...it will struggle. It isn't about HP... it's about torque. The bigger tractors have bigger engines with bigger displacement...don't try to compare a 25 HP home depot mower to a 25 HP tractor...that's eating misleading marketing numbers. A 25 HP Kubota B isn't the same as a 25 HP Kubota L... the L has much more torque and engine displacement. If an implement needs PTO HP, the magic number is 25-30+...anything else than puts you in a category of 'baby tractor' AKA subcompact implements, meaning you can't even do certain things (or do them efficiently). If you got 25 at the PTO, you're good to go for pretty much any implement at reasonable size. You need to start with a question like 'what size logs do I want to be able to chip" or "what size trees do I want to bush hog" instead of 'I want some PTO HP.' The hydraulic flow number is misleading too. A lot of that goes into steering and the difference between 6 or 7 or 8 GPM doesn't matter. I would focus on the valves and overall design. How does the loader joystick feel? How does backhoe control multiple functions. You want the ability to do things at reasonable speed and smoothly. There is a balance and it's all about how the tractor valves operate and not how a fast a pump works. I can tell you that the Kubota values feel much better than others... john deere values on lower end models keep kinda like crap honestly in comparison...You really have to try this out to know. You can't even do 2 different functions at the same time on some tractors. About weight. This is important for a tractor for many reasons. If you're mowing with a tractor (not recommended), it's a downside, but for EVERYTHING else more weight is more important that anything else (including HP). A tractor with a 8 foot turning radius and heavily cambered front wheels with aggressive tires makes a horrible mower. Instead of spending 3-4k on a belly mower, you're 100% better off with a dedicated 3-4k mowing machine. It will cut better, it wont mess up your grass, it will be cheaper to operate, it will feel better to operate... EVERYTHING is better about it. Don't be "that guy" who buys a tractor to mow their lawn weekly...get it to bush hog a field monthly. Looking at travel speed is pointless. In high range, they'll move fast enough where you'll feel wind in your face and anything faster you'll be wanting a cab. This only matters if you're going to be driving in on roads like a car. Definitely a factor for some people who move between properties and only if you do that should you be even looking at it. Most people probably never put in H range. On ground clearance... if you want a backhoe, realize that will reduce ground clearance a lot due to subframe. Some brands like Kubota, it's less of a reduction and best in class. Other brands, you're almost dragging the subframe on the ground. The subframe actually comes off with the backhoe on some models. I wouldn't worry too much about power train warranty if its a Japanese (ex, Kubota or Yammer) engine. Korean power trains have never been reliable. Doesn't matter that it has a long warranty is it's going to be in the shop a lot or just doesn't work right. Or maybe there isn't even a dealer who knows how to fix it. Resale value is more important than you think when buying. Despite thinking you're buying something 'forever,' chances are you will be wanting to sell or trade in later. You CANT beat John Deere of Kubota on resale...they have vast dealer networks, communities, and overall acceptance. You might save 1-2k (or even 5k) buying other brands, but you'll gain that + more when timing to sell if got a John Deere or Kubota... you can literally buy one of these new, use them for a few years, and sell them to someone for very little loss (or ZERO loss if you got it used). Other brands no one will want to buy...they'll all looking at John Deere or Kubotas. For a compact tractor, you can't beat a Kubota B or L (I'd look at L not B based on the other models you're comparing to). For sub compact (which I wouldn't recommend...get a separate mower instead), John Deere 1025r is a staple and IMO outshines a Kubota BX, which is also good. The higher end Kubota grand L or John Deere 4 series are THE best 'big compact' tractor out there. Kubota makes better backhoe / loader/ hydraulic stuff and just a better tool in general...solid and has everything you need. Unless you're unlucky, everything on the Kubota will simply just work and never break like a tank. John Deere is all about ergonomics...might not get the job done better/faster, but it's going to be more comfortable, but you'll be paying for that. Look around and you'll see Kubota dealers have tiny service departments with very few things going on, but John Deere has tractors lined up with complaints. To get 'a real tractor.' IMO you need to get at least get a Kubota L series or John Deere 3 series +. Everything else is just a big lawn mower and bought partly for that reason. If anything, I'd go 1 step above that to avoid buying twice (Kubota grand L/MX... or John Deere 4 D/R series)... probably too expensive for most people so starting out of a smaller model then upgrading not a bad way to go too. As soon as you get a tractor, you get used to it and will eventually want a bigger one...it might seem huge now, but you quickly settle into it. I likely my L3301 (it's a beast) and bought it since everything else was not available for 9+ months and I needed something, but not going to lie I'm thinking I should of got a L47 (hard to find/ unavailable, not the best financing deals). Last piece of advice is the about attachments. It's a huge part of the expense. You don't want to 'buy a baby tractor' + 'baby tractor implements' and then be stuck with them when you realize you want a bigger tractor. Once you go into 25+ HP range, the implements can be rated for 25-50/60 HP range, so you can still use them, whether as the 'baby tractor' stuff will be useless. Thus, buy appropriately sized implements considering they will be usable if you decide to go bigger later.

You first mounted the sill plated with carriage bolts. Did you have issue putting up the walls on top of the carriage bolt?. I feel like that may create a gap between the sill and the wall. Also how did you mount the wall to the trailer.? Was it just nailed to the sill?

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Im a bit late but just a couple tips from someone who has been in the industry. Bobcat =/= Kioti. Both tractors are made by dedong and they will share parts (almost all tractors share parts even the big ones) but bobcat will handle there own engineering parts and distribution. The number 1 factor for buying a tractor of any size needs to be your relationship with the dealer.

I think you did a very good job on this and I found it very interesting. Thank you. A couple of comments. I am interested in why you did not include a John Dear 3025E. Seems like it would certainly be worthy of consideration here. I have personal experience with three tractors, the Bobcat CT2025, John Deere 3025E and the Kubota B2601. I just bought a new Bobcat CT2025 after doing a lot of research. The warranty I got was a 6 year factory warranty, so not sure what the 2 year bumper-to-bumper or powertrain warranty is in your analysis on the Bobcat? Also, the hydraulic pump capacity for the CT2025 is 11.4 gpm, so not sure what your "Hydrolic flow" represents? I do a lot of rotary cutter and tiller work, so the PTO HP was an important consideration in my selection of the Bobcat. I also like the twin touch pedals on the HST way better than the rocker pedal on the Kubota. The control layout and overall comfort is superior on the Bobcat as compared to the John Deere and Kubota. The 3 range HST also beats out the 2 range on the JD 3025E. I also had a great selection of implements, good local dealer service and I am impressed with the loader performance of the CT2025. What really sold me on the CT2025 was the value for money mainly compared to the JD 3025E. I don't think you can really go wrong with any of these small tractors, but just thought I would share my experience and again, I really appreciate the good work you did on this. Very interesting. Thank you.

Poor support after the sale is costly.

Good dealership makes 50% of the decision.

Dude! amazing work. I'm impressed by the quality of the build. I have a question for you; why have you guys opted for a 2x6 ledger board instead of a 2x4? My walls are up and I really like the way you did it by carving through the studs; I'm just not sure of the rationale of 2x6 there. Any thoughts?

After weeks of research I went with the CK3510SE. JD way over priced, L series more $$ for less features. You will love the Kioti. Highly recommend the SE version. A workhorse and comfortable. Dont let the regen sway you into a lower hp model. I have 90 hrs and it's regen'ed three time. Doesn't affect anything, just keep on working.

As others have said B2601 is wrong tractor to compare against Kioti CK2610. The CK2610 is HUGE and I think closest comparison in Kubota lineup is LX2610 or L2501

I have a B2601 and I love it......having said that the old saying is buy 1 size larger than you think you need. If you are worried about emissions and want to stay at 26hp or less I would strongly consider the Kubota LX2610 if you want a Kubota. My research led me to believe that the Mahindra 1626 is by far the most stout tractor at 26hp or less. I would have purchased that tractor but didn't really have a dealer within reasonable distance that I felt good about. Good luck with your search.

Some of your Bobcat specs are incorrect. For example the hydrolic flow rate is nit 6.8, but is 11.34 gpm, just like the Kioti. In fact most of the specs are identical to the Kioti, because in most ways it is a Kioti painted white (even made by Kioti). Perhaps you inadvertantly included some specs from the ct10xx series? Great spreadsheet and video though.

The B2601 is a smaller tractor then the other models that you are looking at. the B2601 does have the loader float function. I thought the B2601 was a bit on the small size for me so I bought a LX 3310. Kubota doesn't put a lot of weight in those small tractors because they want them to be more turf friendly. So you wont see the big loader lift numbers that the other tractors have in the group. If I had more then 3 acres a would have Bought the L 3560 with cab or maybe a larger 60 model. I'm from Central Washington as well!