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Never had an issue with mine and going on for years now. Ntm every brand has their lemons. Hell went through 3 victrons. One actually almost caught fire. Every brand out there even made in the ISA still uses Chinese parts. Little dark secret of solar

You did something wrong, check your connections! May be you have no load?

The C should be set to the actual battery voltage

Hello friend please help me I have a bmw e46 I cut the key to change the battery and I cut the transmission coil but I bought a key I replaced the chips and the small one and the big one the car starts now but to no avail I try to program it central locking no is it still working help me please don't know why it's not working

Hello, I need test strips where I can order them?

Alex boa tarde. Arrumei cabo do sensor que estava com mal contato, porém não fechei ele com epóxi. Fiz teste no com raio x e não aparece imagem. Imagem só vai aparecer depôs que fecha esse sensor com epóxi ?

I like your soldering gun, where can i find it?

scary shit!

Owned by a plastic surgeon and ran on human fat derived biodiesel. Holy shit. I wonder what that exhaust smelled like. I BET he was unpopular, that's mildly horrifying even on the surface.

my experiences with this expensive toy mirror yours. not a smart buy. takes forever to air a tire. needs cooldown every 8 minutes.

How's is that art?

430FG series for medical devices not specific for glucose monitor but yes number of glucose meters use this

I want one

Cool trick!

Oh, I have been pondering how to put together a DIY roof rack, and while I'd like to think I would have come up with something pretty snazzy eventually, you just saved me a ton of time and, let's be honest, frustration. Many thanks!

That's 120° not 60°.

I was expecting some big brain solution. I found galaxy brain solution instead.

Good Info. thanks. What brand is this multi meter? looks like an old Ipod.

surprised at the difference in duration based on weather. neat!

No solar?

Off-Grid, but completely traceable…

Very cool!

Where do you get that epoxy?

I did this same thing in a building where we were replacing 400-watt HPS shoebox fixtures on a parking lot that were 480V. We were replacing the fixtures one for one with 96-watt LED shoebox fixtures with multi volt 120-277V drivers. This was back in 2011 when there were no 480V LED drivers out there. I felt it was much easier and cleaner to convert from 480 to 277V circuits at electrical panel than place 480V to 277V step down transformers at the base of each light pole. I had another project where I replaced 400-watt HPS highbay fixtures with four lamp F32T8 fixtures in a hangar. We were told the HPS highbays were 277V, so lighting contractor ordered new fluorescent highbay fixtures with 120-277V multi volt ballasts. However, when contractor started installing the new fixtures, they found out the lighting circuits were all 480V. Contractor went ahead and installed all the new fixtures with the 120-277V ballasts, then came back and removed these ballasts and installed and rewired all fixtures with 480V fluorescent ballasts. After about a month after completion, we started having major issues with the retrofitted fixtures, since the lamps were burning out and flashing. The contractor did not wire the fixtures correctly and they were all a disaster. We should have just converted the lighting circuits from 480-277V at panels which would have avoided all the chaos. I was not notified of the ballast replacement until after the job was completed since the construction was run by a different group of people. Hopefully all these fixtures have been replaced with LED fixtures by now, since the fluorescent fixtures were a lost cause. If we had been told the lighting circuits in the building were all 480V, we would have been able to devise the proper solution from the beginning where we had the option to convert the circuits from 480V to 277V.

Just a word of caution though, since it uses the low remaining power to charge itself, it does drain your battery further. Once started, you can drive no problem, because the alternator is taking over, but keep in mind your battery is still low. You need to let the car run or drive it for at least an hour for the alternator to charge the battery enough if you what the car to start the next time. But it will get you out of trouble when your car is won't start out of the blue and there is nobody around to help you. I keep the batteryless jump starter in my car's trunk and it works even during freezing cold winter days. You definitely can't do that with battery powered jump starters. I would suggest using someone else's car or a wall outlet to charge it when possible, and if you've got a car battery charger at home, put it on charge once back home to ensure it get fully charged. I didn't do it and at one point point I needed to use the jump starter a bit too often, the more I jump started the car, the less the battery would keep a charge. Fortunately the battery was just a year old and managed to get it replaced under warranty. Note that this applies to jump starting in general, but since this one will drain the battery further to work, it's even more important

I ran into this problem yesterday. Thank you for posting this video. I will try your method.

I was able to follow along but dont trust myself with the soldering, would i be able to cut the corner off the key ? with the cap, coil and transponder? since its already pinned correctly

What type of battery your car uses? Don't say its not lead acid, because lead acids can't be charged this rapidly

This device is amazing :)

😂😂😂😂 worst unboxing video ever

Hi alex recently I look your video.. excelent

Great video.

Looking forward to the review

Great.. can you please do a review of those. Thank you

On my 2002 330Ci the trim piece above the Eonon unit we fitted this week was a very tight fit. Reversing it in per video tip required some loosening of the screws securing the vents and the head unit to get enough room to clear the trims rotation. Taking the small tab off the trim seemed to give it just enough room. Very tight but its in!!

Any chance you saved or at least measured the capacitance value of the one you removed from the OEM board?

Just save up and buy a roof rack. Looks terrible! Uni strut and spring nuts aren’t exactly free anyway. As for ‘in an emergency’, who has strut laying around in an emergency. You also forgot to add the feet that real roof bars have to prevent the bolts from bending under acceleration and breaking. If you have an accident where is the CE marking??

Can u contact me]

How much to do my key?

Do you fix them as a business I have one to be fixed

When you sliced the wire at 5:00... yikes!

Hello. how to program this key on open and lock function? my car e46 2001

😥 pr໐๓໐Ş๓

Is it a dental x-ray sensor

If I saw you doing this to someones car your ass would be fired

Yup pretty much

idk what i did but i dont even have the clearance to put it in like that. the right side is super tight

Hey I was trying to have u make me this same thing for me with my key I ran it over on accident and its not working anymore. I have a 2001 BMW 325i. If you could reach back out to me that would be great.

The connection is wrong…both jump starter cables should be connected directly to battery terminals.

excellent job! One thing to consider... try a small (ie the smallest) zip tie you can get, cut flush as a strain reliever. Pull tight against the through hole and put a drop of adhesive to hold it in place. The wires will be easier to place. Have you thought about using a cast of an original sensor back to raise your repair to the next level? Just a question about testing. were you able to get the drivers/basic twain software to test these?