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Hans Poole
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2021
How To Remove Interior Sliding Door Handle on 2005 Odyssey
A completely unedited, uncut clip of me removing the inside sliding door handle on a 2005 Odyssey.
มุมมอง: 275
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Honda Odyssey Sliding Doors and Parasitic Drain Fixed-1 Year later
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I made a video in January 2022 showing how to fix the sliding doors and parasitic drain that occurs all too often on Honda Odysseys in the 2005-'10 generation. This video is an update on how things have panned out in the time since I fixed the doors. Link to the first video: th-cam.com/video/pBZ9aKrOcbE/w-d-xo.html Time Stamps: 00:00 Intro 01:06 Closing the door 01:39 Problems I had, and how I ...
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How to Replace the Low Beam Headlight Bulbs on a 2005 10 Honda Odyssey HD 1080p
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How To Fix Parasitic Drain and Power Sliding Doors On 2005-10 Honda Odyssey
มุมมอง 93K2 ปีที่แล้ว
If your 2005-10 Honda Odyssey's battery dies overnight and the power sliding doors aren't closing properly, chances are that the latch/closer assembly isn't working properly. In this video, I show you the complete start to finish process of removing the latch, cleaning and re-lubricating it, and then putting everything back together. Of course, you can just install a new latch assembly if you d...
I.followed your video instructions removed , cleaned and oiled the mechanism on oth doors. The driver side worked fine for about a year and is now not working at all. Parasitic drain has returned and the power feature does not work at all. The weird thing is that when the power door switch is off it and when i close it the door tries to suck in but then releases. Im going to remove the mechanism again and try to clean and re-oil it, basicly the same repair, i guess i have to check the other actuators and rubber peices... any other advice welcome?.
Btw you should go faster
Yeah, I definitely could've gone faster. I'll make a new video with my better GoPro when I'm up there again this fall.
Hans wats up it’s me grant from hemlock week three
What hid kit did you use
Thank you for this video. I cleaned out the OEM motor and it worked for a little bit but failed again. I gave up so I ordered a new motor assembly as well as door latch actuator and my door is good as new now. Thanks so much!! This video saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs and also has prolonged the life of my 18 year old minivan which is very hard for me to part with. Only 169K miles and still running strong!
My situation was coupled with the symptom of a ticking/clicking noise only audible when near the fuse box. It was a pretty fast tick and didn't seem like it was gonna stop anytime soon even with the key out! I could literally feel the tick coming from the 7.5a fuse before i knew it was the one, pulling stopped the ticking! That's what lead me here lol The ticking has stopped and the door has no trouble closing anymore! I did not take the door apart as you did, I used WD to clean that wire/cord and the grooves and loaded them up with a buttload of Lucas Marine grease (i chose this grease for weather protection and its high melting point, apparently the kind doesn't matter as much) I also slapped on a silly amount of the marine grease into both latches at the front and back of both power doors. I did the trunk for good measure, wasn't having a problem there but hopefully I won't either. This worked good enough for me, literally no disassembly, i only wish I used a can of brake cleaner/contact cleaner with the long red tip to blow out the latches, there was dirt actually packed into that latch. I cringe looking back not doing it but I did it at break time at work lol (that's when i found my car died)
Is there ANYONE in the NYC/Long Island area who has successfully done this and I can maybe pay reasonable fee to do it for me? I am in Long Island near Queens border... not far from JFK. Monte 5I6-983-O257
We just bought a 2000 Honda odyssey EX for $800. The car does not start normally, and we were told the power sliding doors do not work. I assume the doors are causing parasitic battery drainage. The car has to be jump started every time you need to use it with a jump start kit. When using the doors manually, it seems like the power sliding doors do not latch properly, and I am starting to feel like this video may be our fix, but I don’t know how comfortable I feel preforming this myself.
The thing not starting normally and problematic power sliding doors are two diametrically different issues. Tackle the doors, if you are so inclined, only AFTER you have remedied the starting problem.
Thank you. This video saved me a lot of trouble
A window crank removal tool would make short work of getting that handle off at the beginning of the process. 6 bucks it so at any auto parts store.
If I decide to the door manually, can I just unplug the latch and end the parasitic draw?
That's what I was wondering. I use it manually anyways
Are these euro or US spec housings?
Is there a way to unplug it and so the power door would not work but the power draw would stop ?
Great job! thank you!
my question is is the door open light on from this issue? he says ot thinks the door is open but mon dont show that on my dash unless i pop it open by hand
Can anyone explain how he unplugs the black cable at 7:30? I’ve been trying but it won’t come off.
Omg! My door was doing that but I couldn’t find any answers, thank you! Trying this soon!
Great instructions. Followed this yesterday to fix my van's intermittent door alarm and parasitic battery drain issues. Thank you!
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
I just bought some retrofit projectors myself. I’m working on my 2002 Escalade. For the high beams on the projector is it necessary to hook them up? What if I just want to use the original high beams and not the projector one?
If you have separate low and high beam bulbs, then I would just leave the projector's high beam solenoid wire disconnected. As long as you have separate bulbs for low and high beams and your projector is only replacing the low beam, it's not necessary to connect the projector's high beam solenoid; it will work just fine. The reason I connected it in my case is because I was using the projector to replace a dual filament bulb that served both low and high-beam purposes (an H4 bulb); hence, I would've had no high beams if I had left the projector's high beam solenoid wire disconnected.
@@hanspoole thanks bro that’s what I was thinking. Glad you replied saved me a lot of time in attempting to make the highs work.
No problem!
What about when u turn lights on only high or low beam?
With the setup I have, I have fully functional headlights with both lows and highs.
Thanks for the vid, just got a vr6 mk4 and wanna do this
You're welcome! Good luck on the retrofit!
Is there anyway to bypass the switches so they always think the door is closed so they wont drain? I dont want automatic doors anymore. What about zip tieing the switch shut or twisting the wites together or cutting the wire or what??
To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure if there's a way to bypass the switches in the way you describe. The most likely thing to happen if you were to fix the switches closed is that the closer mechanism would cease to work properly, but don't take my word for it. The best solution to bypass the doors is to simply remove the infamous fuse #7 on the driver's side interior fuse panel, which will disable the automatic doors and several other functions that normally work with the key out of the ignition, such as locking the doors and having the interior lights automatically come on.
@@hanspooleremoving the #7 fuse it will still drain the battery I measured with a multimeter it stops the constant draining but it still looks for a signal every few seconds. The odyssey forum also noticed this. I would really like to bypass them hmm 🤔 I will do some testing and let you know
Thank you so much! Thanks to your clear and thoroughly detailed explanation, we were able to repair the door and parasitic drain! So much money was saved. You are amazing!
You're very welcome!
U install those but they leds facing horizontal or vertical
I never really showed the bulbs' orientation on camera super well since there's no good camera angle, but at 3:40 in the video, the position I'm holding the bulb in my hand is the same position that they need to be once installed in the housing (LEDs facing to the sides such that the cable is facing up). Also, make sure the arrows are lined up as I attempted to demonstrate at 3:51.
A great and every helpful video, Hans, thank you very much. My neighbour had the identical problem, and after a failed attempt by a real mechanic, I managed to fix it for him for a good price and help us both out. Your filming and lighting is excellent, and your thorough explanation without wasting time or words is great.
Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful!
Thanks,i have changed them!
Have a parts list with numbers?
Do you mean for the headlight housings? The VW part numbers for those are 1J5941017BJ (passenger's side)and 1J5941018BJ (driver's side). There are no part numbers for the retrofit kit that I'm aware of, but I've linked what I purchased on Amazon in the description. Unfortunately, it looks like the projector kit that I purchased is "currently unavailable", but if you make a search using keywords from the item's title I'm sure something comparable will pop up.
I agree 100%. Thank you for making this video. It’s not too long. It’s perfect. It was thorough. Saved me a lot of money.
Looks like people are looking at this video recently as well, so here it is. Prior to putting the latch back, put water proof butyl tape along the TOP seam of the latch to close off the latch from moisture coming down through the door. Door panel is not water proof and there is drain hole at the bottom of the door to let water out. However, the water gets into the latch (later version of the latch had couple of foam tapes which helps but not totally water proof) and eats away at the lubrication and also this is worse in the winter because the lubrication gets hard AND the moisture inside the latch will freeze making things worse. In my experience, doing what he does will get you through couple of seasons but the issue will come back and so far, I had to swap out both of my latches with new OEM one (about $250 each) but since I had to swap out batteries 3 times because of the drain, you will save $$ from not having to swap out the battery. In a pinch, I found spray and pray method works for a month or 2. Just undo the 3 bolts from the back of the latch one at a time and spray with plenty of brake cleaner/degreaser using long straw followed by lithium grease (suitable for low temp) followed by manual opening and closing of the door 10-15 times will usually get the door gears unstuck.
That is a very good caveat to take note of! In fact, the microswitches on both door latches went bad on our van a couple of months ago (the latch mechanism still moves freely) and I'll need to solder in some new latches. In my case, I think what happened is that a lot of condensation formed on the inside of the door due to drastic temperature fluctuations. Haven't gotten around to putting in those new switches yet because life has been too busy, but I'll make sure to make a video when I finally get around to it 🤣
About to do my own retrofit in the next few weeks! I made some SW Galactic Empire logo etched lenses and demon eyes. Would love to see more Jetta content! Great video!
Sounds cool! Got any special video requests? I ended up unexpectedly having to replace the coil and plug wires last week, and I did have to remove the upper manifold because of my specific engine variation. I'd be happy to make a video of that if that'd be useful. Besides that, my 2.slow has been too reliable to make much maintenance-related content and my bank account has no desire to make performance upgrades😂
I live in Long Island New York (near Queens) but I really don't think I'm capable of doing the job that he describes. Is there anyone who can do this job for me following his amazing instructions for a reasonable price?
Anyone?
Thank you for this! Best video I've seen on this repair, by far. It's not too long at all. Showing every step is key IMO, and watching it gives us a mental run-through of how it's going to go. Going to attempt this soon. Very well done, thanks again!
You’re saving me $800. Can’t wait to fix it this weekend.
BRILLIANT, great pace. Thank you..
Size of projector lamp?
The projector is of the 2.5" type, and I believe it is a mini h1 bulb.
Great video! I'm planning to do something similar with my Bora; the stock headlights are lousy. Did you consider those H4 bulbs with projectors? I think that maybe it's a simpler solution. (I'm afraid of damaging my headlights because here in Argentina they are ridiculously expensive.)
Thanks for watching and commenting! I haven't considered those H4 projector bulbs, but that's simple because I hadn't found them first. They might work perfectly fine, I'm just unfamiliar with them and haven't researched them. I would highly recommend digging through some forums to see if other people have done the same thing and what their results were.
You are just amazing!!!! No other fitting words find to explain your genius teaching
Genius might be overselling it a bit, but thanks anyway😂
@@hanspoole😊
After watching this, I knew this was my problem from the intro, when the door closes then bumps a little bit open. It's getting towed to the shop tomorrow, then I will see what they say. Thank you for the info!
That one symptom pretty much confirms that something is wrong with the latch, in one form or another. I wish you luck!
Great video. I’m gonna attack mine tomorrow.
Thx so much for this. I got the latch working. All fixed!
You're very welcome, I'm glad to hear you got it working!
First part is to remove clip which holds door handle on. Totally glosses over the ACTUAL removal, from which point you cannot continue. “So we were gonna go out onto the open ocean for the weekend. Next thing you know, the ship’s captain is lashed to the flanks of a white whale the size of Nantucket’s biggest church! The rest of the crew is dead, only I survived. The ship went unscathed as well as my own hide, as it would appear the great behemoth was either allergic to me or just was scared of left handed people. Also, I found a few tonnes of gold bullion on a raft that the whale was towing, until he got scared of me and cast away any impediments to escape. Never knew being a south paw could be so rewarding. Tell all the families that the rest of the crew died peacefully. After I ate them. Alive. But boy, scurvy makes the flesh quite salty. Red wine helps to wash it down better than fetid bilge water. And they left me all of their love letters to their womenfolk back home. Wow, you girls are WILD! The pastor, the bank manager, the school marm, and the snake oil salesman? In the same week? Wow……
Hi Andrew, for your viewing pleasure, I went and tracked down the original footage of me removing the door handle and uploaded it uncut to my channel, here's the link: th-cam.com/video/z4vJNsbUh-A/w-d-xo.html You are very welcome😉 Secondly, I understood your point quite well after the second sentence of your comment and just for your future reference, the rest of what you wrote only looks silly. However, your point about me leaving out a crucial part of the process is valid and-I did that on purpose. Here's the thing: I wanted the video to provide adequate information in as concise a manner as possible. If I had left the original footage uncut, there would've been over an hour of video for y'all to watch. The footage of me removing that clip and handle is about a minute long and I figured everyone would be able to figure it out by watching me first demonstrate on a removed door handle and then struggle for a few seconds on the real deal. Apparently I was wrong. Since then, I have discovered the rag trick, which reduces the clip removal time to just a few seconds. I, of course, was unfamiliar with that handy trick in 2022, otherwise I would've demonstrated it then.
@@hanspoole I googled the rag trick and that looks so much easier. th-cam.com/video/GPWtXxG_5J0/w-d-xo.html Hopefully that is the right rag trick.
Thank you for the thorough and clear video. My son & I took this on for our 2007 Odyssey with exactly this issue. The sliding mechanism was definitely gummy. It took us approx 3 hours. Unfortunately after the fix our siding door doesn't auto-open but the battery drain seems fixed. I started the van the next day and it turned over fine. We think that when the problem started with the parasitic drain it burned something out because the circuit was open so long.. maybe a fuse? switch? gotta find another youTube video. But a least our battery is saved and we can drive it.
Glad to hear you were able to fix the parasitic drain! That's the more inconvenient problem in my opinion, so it's good that the process fixed at least that. If you haven't already, you may want to try resetting the doors by removing fuse 7 in the driver's side fuse panel as shown in this video from Barbour's Auto Help: th-cam.com/video/xUy1s8g6hck/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PnSQc_mMNIiexy4f.
I'd check the back up radio fuse first. Radio may be locked or burned up.
Thank you very very very much!
You are welcome!
Very informative video! I have a 2004 odyssey and my side doors on both sides are messed up. Drivers side is really the culprit, so I will try my hand at this. Right now the drivers side back door won't even open so I have that to address too. Good video!
Thank you! Hopefully you’re able to get it all fixed up without too much trouble. The doors on my van quit working again last month, but it turns out that the micro switches are bad, so I won’t be able to get away with just relubing the mechanism. I’ll make a new video on my adventures once I find the time to actually do it within the next couple of weeks🤣
If you take off the screw-drive you can exercise the final closing mechanism... this lets you test the switch for it without having to remove the switch. Just remember where the cam pawl was when you put it back. Bonus: you get to figure out what's going on when the final closing of the door happens... this is the magic that the funny 3-wire switch performs. That damn window track! Big thing there... it's plastic, and bends out of the way... you have to get the mechanism *inside* the window track to replace it, not easy! See the hole with the slot? Put one bolt (not the washer one!) in there to hang it on when you finally get it in place.
First I have to watch another video to figger out how to get the seats out!
love it! very informative video 👏
I’m glad you found it helpful!
@hanspoole how's it compared to then and now? and in rain?
Overall, I would say that the headlights are better and brighter, especially in regard to the cutoff line and beam pattern. The before and after clip near the end demonstrates that pretty well. Getting them aimed properly is extremely important for best performance. As for in the rain, they work well-they work well in any precipitation, for that matter. Fog is a bit problematic though…
I just realized my mk4 golf has h7 connectors. do you happen to know which harness would work?
Unfortunately, I do not know of a harness that would make a single projector per headlight setup work on a Golf headlight, since the Golf has separate high and low beam bulbs. That's not to say there aren't harnesses out there that could do that for you, I just haven't had a need to look for any. I'm not familiar with doing a projector retrofit for a car that has separate lows and highs, so I would recommend searching through some Golf forums to see if anyone has successfully done that with a Golf. Whether you do a single projector setup that has a high beam shutter, or you have separate low and high projectors, I'm sure there's a wiring harness out there to make it happen. Good luck!
It worked for me but I get a side door light a lot and my passenger slider stops to work until I pull fuse 7 each time
My parasitic drain ended up being the navigation top screen on my 2006
I've heard of that happening as well, fortunately my van doesn't have that option.