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@@garywilsonwilson893 would be nice if the dust seals were there but they are not on the touring models with “cowbells”. I guess the motor co feels covering that area with covers protects the seal.

Sure not every situation is the same, but more often then not they will come out pretty easy.

​@1jrlord17 stop talking out your ass and go find affordable health care 😂

@@1jrlord17 Just did it this week for a 20 year old bike. Even my mate who benches 180kg could not do it. I ended up filling forks full to the brim with oil and put it under hydraulic press to pop those seals. Easy, just wasted 1l of old oil and used petrol to rinse parts before assembly.

Yes. Technically they don’t make them for the touring because those models come with the cowbells. But they will fit 49mm

@@1jrlord17 ok, cuz i cant find them otherwise and my dealers parts department wont answer the damn phone

The dealer was the only source I knew of. I haven’t really looked anywhere else. You could call around to different dealers to see if they have it on the shelf

Thanks

No these are not inverted forks

The smoother they are the better it helps the oil stay in & not leak past

Yes. It helps pull air when at lower speeds.

They worked fine. Much easier to grab than the stock levers. If they are adjusted in to far the bike wont start in gear. I adjusted them out till the bike started in gear with the clutch pulled in.

@@1jrlord17 Thanks. Yeah that's interesting. Still easier to pull on the clutch? I live in Los Angeles. The capital of traffic lol!

You need to remove front wheel & pull the fork tubes out of the triple trees. Cowbells are just bolted to the lower trees. Remove them then just put it back together. It’s also a good time to replace the fork seals if needed.

Thanks! It’s a 19”

Yes the dust covers fit 49mm tubes.

Thanks

Which covers are you referring to?

@@1jrlord17 The dust covers.

I did find the correct part # for my bike. Thanks

@@jamesg2343 get dust covers to fit the size of your fork tubes. Mine are 49mm. For instance a Dyna with 49mm tubes fits

@@1jrlord17 Thanks, 41mm for the earlier touring bikes.

Don’t understand what you think is missing. Well if you want to make it much more complicated you can go off the manual which will tell you to pull the whole pump assembly out to change filter that’s ok also. But everything I did is in this video & it took about 30 minutes to complete. Others have used this video to change their filter themselves vs taking it to the shop.

Thanks. The touring bikes are great.

Later when I redu the front suspension I’ll probably get black tubes

Don’t have the number. Any dealer will have the info or harleydavidson.com in the OEM parts section will have info

Your not going to notice a power difference unless it’s really clogged but it did seem a little smoother.

Would be same for brake side. The clutch side would be a little different If you have a cable vs hydraulic. For cable you would need to adjust for slack then disconnect the cable at the lever. When lever installed you need to reconnect your cable then adjust it.

@@1jrlord17 nice thank you

@@1jrlord17 followed you on Instagram!

​@1jrlord17 are yours kinda loose up and down, little bit of play in them? I just installed them

I now use a set of stock levers that I shortened & powder coated. I’ve been pretty happy with it.

You can purge but I never do & never had any issues as there is no power being applied to the pump.

Easy to over look as it’s not visible.

@@1jrlord17 right and to be honest I only changed mine because someone suggested it

Thanks

@@1jrlord17 🙏🏼 welcome 🤙🏼

Yes. I changed out the linkage with Santoro Fabworx linkage & works fine

Yes I do like them better. Still need to adjust a little

@@1jrlord17 thx man.. hey did you happen to do a video on here of your cutting/mods to install the cvo rear taillights setup you have? Looks mint 👌

@@62willy1 I didn’t do a video but I think I posted pictures on Instagram when I did it

Thanks for tuning in!

Yes it comes with instructions. Install doesn’t take to long. I was just over an hour but I was also taking video

Should be up now.

Thanks

And that is perfectly fine.

@@1jrlord17 thanks for the reply.

Not an argument- just a explanation of different tastes- I hate the bulky look and want the mechanical “race “ look. I like it to resemble a works dirt bike or moto gp bike. I put the inverted 52mm ohlins on my dyna mostly for looks. I probably won’t invest that much cash into my street glide.

Yes. You have to pull the tubes out of the triple trees to take the cow bells off & slide a new dust cover down.

It’s really easy. I just went through it when rebuilding shocks. 4 bolts at the top of the cowbell and viola!

Rebuilt from crank up. Darkhorse crank, Carrillo rods, S&S 590 cam, S&S cam plate & pump, S&S rockers, rocker shafts,studs & head bolts, Screaming Eagle heads w/+1 valves, 64mm throttle body, 6.2 injectors HPi pipe, etc.

This bike sounds so sweet

Exhaust is HPi @horsepowerinc

@1jrlord1 bro that shit looks clean as fuck.

@1jrlord1 BTW, thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

@@GatorTactical_ Thanks

I’m sure there are. I don’t have one but you basically pull front wheel off then slid fork tubes out of triple trees then un bolt cowbells & reassemble. Look for videos on rebuilding the front suspension. It’s the same process except you don’t need to disassemble the tubes. But it’s a good time for a rebuild of new bushings & seals or an upgrade while your that far.

Jeez that’s a lot of work

What do you mean by small posters?

Thanks

@@1jrlord17 @1jrlord17 👍

You need to pull the fork tubes out of the triple trees. The cowbells are bolted to the lower triple tree.