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I’d hate to know what those cam bearings look like after being hammered in like that. You don’t beat on bearings!

you are an idiot for hammering on the balancer

Are you still working on this project? Interested to see what happens when you get the engine in and fire it up!

Very nice sharing ❤ new friend here stay connected 😊

Next time put a bit of grease on the retaining clips to hold them in location

Chineese waterpump. Junk. Been there.

The screen keeps metal shards from being picked up when your engine explodes. It's the difference between having a salvageable engine and not.

It looked like in the video that you were rotating the engine counterclockwise when you were doing the valve lash adjustment. Does it matter which direction you're rotating the engine when you do that? Thank you

Should have assembly lube under the ring compressor. Use more lube!

What spray are you using for the timing chain cover

After doing my head gasket it appears to be leaking oil from the head

In the future, when you get the timing chain off, put the gear back on. Makes it a LOT easier to twist and pull and the cam should come out a lot easier than all the banging around with hammer and prybar.

Your pistons are way too far in the hole. You won't have enough compression for the engine to run properly. They should be at the top of the cylinder. Yours look like they are a half inch down in the cylinder. I would find out why or you'll have power about like a 3 hp Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engine

If that's TDC then you've got the wrong pistons or crankshaft

I believe that silica dust is a strong health hazard. I think you need better mask just to be on the safe side. Love your project.

Rock auto carries the original upper radiator hose

Use studs for the oil pan

What is the size of the crankshaft pulley screw? Did you find it in HD?

Hey Greg I have a slant 6 myself and I need some help what is that metal gasket for the shiney silver one that's rectangular and has 3 holes in it i don't know what it is

where I can I get that gide??

I think the oil hole has to be to the right side,, to keep the oil to the camshaft

How heavy would you say the cylinder head is? I need to replace mine and I'm not sure if I'll need an engine hoist or not. Thanks and thanks for the video too!

This video was very helpful for me to see the lower bearing 1. On Chrysler master tech. video it shows the No 1 to have wider chamfer th-cam.com/video/iwYTmwkJ66Y/w-d-xo.html where is this wider chamfer? Thanks to this video at 8:55 one can see the locating tab has been widened by hand tool. Good to know because new set of bearings are the same size, you must widen it or else the chain doesn't get enough lubrication. Thank you very much.

to make the task easier, install the piston / rod assembly when the crankshaft journal is at BDC,, I fear using Ultra slick or any assembly lubricant on the piston / cylinder assembly, it impairs the initial ring break in, I use straight oil on that part of the engine. I use assembly libe elsewhere on the engine, ^particulary on the camshaft lobes where the initial starting procedure is crictical. very good video.

I don't think hammering the cam with a screwdriver is standard practice..how about a pliers if you want to pluck objects out..works better than hitting it..

Have you continued with the car and not filming or is the car sat waiting?

@08:55 Kids and jacks, I always did that :)

I am a good mechanic to rebuild my 440ci motors for my race car. If you are interested in do them let me know.

My back and knees ache after watching the sandblasting...

Intake should be set at 010 and exhaust set at 020

Intakes should be set at 10 and exhaust at 20

put some grees on valve locks they will stay put

The best small car of the 60’s hands down mate

Just got my 85 slant back from the engine builder, another 35 years of dependable service comin up

One of your cam bearing is too tight. The cam is suppose to be turn by hand. The process of installing each cam bearing and using the cam to insure it'll turn easily and not bided.

That cleaned up way better than I thought it would

Way way back in high school, our engine shop teacher taught us to keep the hone entirely in the cylinder from start to finish. Fully inserted before rotation, and complete stop before removal from the bore. This was to prevent chamfering of the top of the sleeve and marring of the top of the block.

Please tell me you gapped the rings? If you didn’t your going to have an unpleasant surprise!

That may not be a typo. Bolt torques on a casting as long as that head can vary as additional bolts are torqued, lowering the initially tightened bolts as any curvature is taken out of the casting.

I am a fine one to make comments, but the con rod bolt threads should be taped over or covered with a plastic tube to prevent marring the crank journal, and putting on the rod cap nuts at BDC would be easier. Wish I could participate to see if my pent up observational learning would be of any value!

6:10 watch your toes

My 62 Plymouth had a very, very dependable 225

speak up....

Me hace acordar cuando armé el motor de mí Dodge polara sedan 1978 Saludos desde Argentina

Nice clean workshop makes for nice work. Thanks for the video I've got a couple of slant six engines in the yard so I'll be doing the same myself next year for my Aussie Valiant. I remember back in my teens removing valves by hitting an appropriately sized socket on top of the spring retainer. The spring would briefly compress and the retaining collets jump out. Didn't work in reverse though 😉

Why so rough with the pump at the end? That is a bad habit to get in and can result in damaging parts or nicking machined surfaces.

I hope you are relatively young. 60 or 61 trunk lid btw.

Sounds like your wire speed was too fast for the heat setting when you were getting blowout...don't feed too much wire at once, you can fill a hole by simply spot welding over and over. Copper works best to use as a backstop. Nice machines. Mig is easy to learn....Tig is a different beast!

Use copper to use as a backup. So it doesn't burn through. It won't weld to copper... You can also get it with a magnet in it I believe harbor freight has them.... Not sure if you have them up north.... 😎

It looks good! I'm nervous about welding the floor of my dart. But as long as its strong you can cover it up with carpet and matts and nobody will see it lol.