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I don't believe QCad offers the functionality of having drawing elements change when changing dimensions (like autocad for fusion360). If it does, I don't know how to use it. There may be work arounds (you can "scale" a selected entity, but it's still going to be a more manual process and won't automatically adjust adjoining entities).

Yeah, unfortunately getting the version with CAM will set you back around $120. I just use the free community edition of QCad for design, and use the Fusion 360 manufacturing environment for my CAM. (I just use these for hobbies though, and not to make money.)

How ? This is not autocad

Thanks. There is such a tool - pointed out by Bzeemer in his comment earlier. It's the "Round (m)" command. It's in the Modify menu if I recall. I use it all the time now.

I no longer have the plane, but ours came bound from the factory. I did a little looking and found an image of the page of the manual with the binding procedure: 3.bp.blogspot.com/-oPaKFi6stbg/WfoEWgXNOjI/AAAAAAAAM5g/A4DXuzLcV7QG5jROn7K4K2NJVq8GAP_rwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/XK-A-430-013.jpg The receiver is compatible with futaba s-fhss and evidently follows similar procedures to bind (turn on transmitter, plug in battery, and press button on receiver). There is a button in the battery compartment and that "might be" the bind button. If not, you have to cut open the canopy to get to the receiver. It also appears that most HK products follow similar procedures. Found this video: th-cam.com/video/bVUzqG6flq8/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps.

Hey man - thanks for the tip! That will save me tons of time. Guess I should be exploring more of the tools in QCad...😉

Thanks! Sorry, I can't help you. I never use those features in QCad. I'm guessing they are probably there, but I'm not sure. You might check out some other tutorials or do a "search" for that feature.

If you leave your spoil board attached and fixed in place (to keep your two y-rails parallel to each other), you should be able to use the same method. Note, that I have two brackets on each end of my single y-rail (one on each side). I loosened all but one and used that one as my pivot point. If you have 2 rails, then you probably have 8 brackets. You would loosen 7 of the brackets, and use the other one to pivot the entire assembly including spoil board. You DON'T want to do each individual rail separately with this method, because then the distance between your rails would change and you might get binding. Hopefully, you won't have to adjust much more than I did. You will have to take care to make sure your rails remain fixed relative to each other if you use this method. I think if I were attempting it, I would add some sort of fixture across each end of the rails to hold them together. (Like a couple of lengths of 20x20 extrusion bolted to each rail, or maybe a couple of pieces of wood with holes drilled and fastened to the tops of the rails with T-nuts. Or better yet, block your carriage and spoil board, front and back, centered on the axis to lock it in place.)

@@sloscotty how do I know how far off the y1-axis is from the y2-axis mm?

@@trieuhanminh1992 They should be parallel. If the distances aren't the same, you should definitely correct that. Can't advise you since I don't have dual y-axes.

@@sloscotty i don't understand (80000-80315)/80000?

@@trieuhanminh1992 It's just from the formula (at 6:59). a^2 + c^2 = 80000 ; b^2 = 80315.56; 2*a*c=80000. You might want to look up "Law of Cosines"

You need to download directly from QCad: www.qcad.org/en/download See the link to the complete tutorial (in the video description above), for info on how to convert it from the "demo" to the "free" community version.

You are kind - thanks!

The Makita RT0701 requires a reducing shim in the Open Builds spindle mount. I use a 3D printed one of my own design. ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:2496956 ). There are others, just look for anything that will adapt the 71mm opening to the 65mm makita.. (Ooznest has one: ooznest.co.uk/product/router-mount-adaptor/ - there may be others commercially available.)

@@sloscotty Thanks! ! Ill check it out, trying to decide do I want the Dewalt and make it easy or get something else that may fit with other tool parts I already have...

@@sloscotty Thanks for info... I went ahead and picked up the DeWalt and decided it will just be dedicated to this CNC build.. many seem to really like it and its already set up for it. but Glad for that information for next build!

Tere

Thanks! Yes that is a shopvac. No filter other than what is in the shopvac. I probably should take more care with the fumes, but I don't use it enough to be that elaborate (for my level of laziness...) ;)

Thanks! No, I used the Makita router that is usually attached to the same CNC machine. (Using the "milling" capabilities of the machine.) Edit: BTW, I did try to laser it, but the beam is not powerful enough to cut even dark acrylic that thick.

@@sloscotty Everytime I try to cut acrylic I fail.. melts and ugh...

@@ldboehm I used a 3/32" 2-flute bit with a spindle speed of ~12000 and a feed rate of 762 mm/min. I don't remember the step-down I used, but I'm sure I took it easy. If I remember correctly, I used step-downs similar to what I did for aluminum. Give it another try - and good luck!

@@sloscotty I'm new to CNC. Been 3d printing for years, time to step into something new

No, this "design" was kept basic and done just for this tutorial so people would have an idea of how to get started. I have used Armattan Productions to have other frames cut from other, more complete designs. They have a very good FAQ (including tips on designing slots for cutting). I recommend checking them out. (I hate to direct you to intoFPV again, but in the tutorial I linked above, I have a link to a thread about my experience with Armattan...;) ) And BTW, I have yet to fly any of my own designs - always finding other nice designs to use my electronics on...maybe someday.

Thanks for your interest. It's a "more complete tutorial" (including installation instructions and other text explanations/answers), in addition to this video. And you do NOT have to "sign up" to read the entire thread. I only directed people there in case they wanted additional information that is not in this video. Sorry if I offended you.

@@sloscotty Not offended just didn't see the difference in the videos

I actually just realized that I don't. The only footage I have of the machine in action is with the laser: th-cam.com/video/OFPicI_DUZE/w-d-xo.html Shortly after that, I had to disassemble the machine for packing to move across the country. (And I am currently remodeling a room as my shop. I should have it back up in a couple of months. Sorry.)

Yes, it should work OK. Input can be up to 5v.

I'm a relatively inexperienced pilot. I took over a year off from all of my RC hobby, because I moved across the country. Before that, I had tried several types of box-style goggles, and a couple of compact-style goggles. All of them had something "wrong" with them that hindered my ability to learn. I'm glad to say that these are finally what I needed to get me going again! They are very comfortable on my head and face, and even more important than that, I CAN ACTUALLY SEE WHAT I WANT TO SEE to fly!! So far, I'm only using them on the simulator, but man oh man, what a view! I've got a couple of new builds going that I can fly on my new small property - and I can't wait to use them for real! One more important thing: I was concerned doing the Kickstarter thing. Worried that with an "unproven" company, if something needed fixing, what would be my experience. I'm relieved to have found out that Orqa has been extremely responsive to reported issues - by other early backers, as well as myself. They've already issued two firmware updates (in less than 2 weeks), one of which fixed an issue I reported using HDMI with my Mac. I'm no longer worried about the company! There are better pilots to ask about the flight experience compared with other goggles - but I am extremely happy with mine! Good luck!!

@@sloscotty ... thanks for the reply. I'm New to FPV. I only want to buy one pair of goggles so I want the best of the best. Been struggling for months trying to decide which. Kind of discounted Orqa as an option then on a whim decided on the Orqa. Now I have to wait. Lol

@@jimscobie6646 FWIW, Orqa just released another firmware update today (this is v1.1.1 - the third update). They added a feature to let the user control Luminescence. I don't know if you watched Bardwell's review, but I think this latest update was to address one of his observations (about the HDO2's seeming "brighter"). Anyway they seem to be paying attention.

@@sloscotty yes! As a matter of fact I asked if they could fix it in an update. Thanks for that info!

No, no 3D function.

@@sloscotty regret

It depends on what charger you have. If your charger will do a balance charge alone, then you just plug the jst balance plug in. I have an FMA charger that lets me do that so that's how I charge. If you have a standard charger, you'll need a XT60 to barrel adapter like www.getfpv.com/female-barrel-connector-to-xt60-adapter-cable.html

There are 4 screws on the back of the case. The batteries are replaced WITHOUT any soldering or desoldering. You can carry extras to swap them in the field in a pinch, but you still have to remove and replace the 4 screws. Orqa will eventually sell replacement batteries, but you can use any 18500 size Li-ion. I picked up a couple of Panasonic NCR18500A 2040mAh cells for spares for $6 each (at 18650BatteryStore.com).

@@sloscotty cool the last review i watched the guy said they were non removable thanks for the info

@@jayward7536 no you just take the screws of and replace the old batteries if you ever need to

This bug is fixed in Firmware version 1.1.0 :) Thanks for reporting it!