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sloscotty
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2007
RIDE Boot Demo
This is the C-Beam RIDE Boot in action! The RIDE Boot is a dust extraction attachment for certain OpenBuilds CNC machines. It has independent adjustment from the router by being attached directly to the Z-axis structure instead of being attached to the router. It features easy tool changes, excellent visibility for the cut, super-efficient dust extraction, and stays just on top of the work surface regardless of cutting depth.
See more info at openbuilds.com/projectresources/c-beam-ride-boot.372/
See more info at openbuilds.com/projectresources/c-beam-ride-boot.372/
มุมมอง: 218
วีดีโอ
Orqa HDMI (Recorded on FPV.One DVR)
มุมมอง 5504 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is a brief illustration of differences of HDMI input source to the Orqa FPV.One goggle.
Orqa FPV.One Arrival and Unboxing!
มุมมอง 2.3K4 ปีที่แล้ว
As Orqa Kickstarter backer #29, I was one of the lucky early ones to get my FPV.One goggle headset in November. The FPV.One was manufactured in Croatia and shipped to me in USA (Georgia) via DHL. It shipped on Monday and arrived at my doorstep in under 48 hours! I don't think I've ever anticipated the arrival of something with such excitement!
Getting Started with QCAD
มุมมอง 81K6 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is the demonstration portion of a more complete tutorial which can be found at intofpv.com/t-getting-started-with-qcad If you have any questions, feel free to ask here or in the thread linked above. Thanks for watching!
Building the Tiny Whoov (a tiny whoover-craft)
มุมมอง 5K6 ปีที่แล้ว
This is a Tiny Whoov built from plans by the originator of the Tiny Whoov, Alex@BadAssDrones. I used parts from an E010 and followed the plans almost exactly. Great design and a great whoover-craft)! Find plans for the Tiny Whoov here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749457/#files
Maiden Whoovering (Crashing!)
มุมมอง 7486 ปีที่แล้ว
Thanks to Alex at BadAssDrones for the plans. This is actually a "Mini" Whoov (not Tiny). It was built from an old FatBee FB90, so I scaled the plans to 120%. See: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749457
Calibrating Y-axis Perpendicular to X-axis
มุมมอง 2.1K6 ปีที่แล้ว
After calibrating X-travel and Y-travel distances, I wanted to make certain that my Y-axis was perpendicular to my X-axis. I show how to do that in this video.
MMXL - Part 7: Final Assembly (and Wrap Up)
มุมมอง 4366 ปีที่แล้ว
In this seventh and final part of the MMXL build, I install the Y-axis on the frame, install the power supply, and wrap up the build. Thank you for watching!
MMXL - Part 6: Installing the X/Z Assembly
มุมมอง 1026 ปีที่แล้ว
In this sixth part of the MMXL build, I install the X/Z assembly on the frame.
MMXL - Part 5: Building the Frame
มุมมอง 1066 ปีที่แล้ว
In this fifth part of the MMXL build, I build the main frame.
MMXL - Part 4: Y Axis Assembly (with Out-takes)
มุมมอง 1686 ปีที่แล้ว
In this fourth part of the MMXL build, I assemble the Y-axis. I also present what is, in my opinion, a better way to build a lead-screw-driven C-Beam actuator. (At the end I show an out-take from one of my several failed attempts at building a long actuator without lead-screw "wobble".)
MMXL - Before You Begin: Thoughts from the End...
มุมมอง 4496 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video, I describe some options you might want to consider before you begin your build of the MMXL. Spoiler alert: The completed MMXL is shown in this clip.
MMXL - Part 3: Building the Y-Gantry
มุมมอง 1406 ปีที่แล้ว
In this third part of the MMXL build, I build up the Y-gantry with riser board. If you want to use the same #2 servo screws I did, you can find them at MicroFasteners: www.microfasteners.com/stw0207-2-x-7-16-servo-mounting-socket-head-washer-head-sheet-metal-screws-shorter-length-servo-screw.html
MMXL - Part 2: X/Z Assembly
มุมมอง 2226 ปีที่แล้ว
In this second part of the MMXL build, I assemble the Z and X axes and mount the Z-axis on the X-axis.
MMXL - Part 1: Disassembling the MiniMill
มุมมอง 5046 ปีที่แล้ว
In this first part of the "build", I disassemble the MiniMill, setting aside all the parts necessary to complete the MMXL. If you bought a MiniMill, and didn't build it, you may need to view the OpenBuilds video to assemble at least the Z-axis and Y-axis. MiniMill build: openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-minimill.5087/
Wayne Goldman Model 534 Hacksaw Mitre Box
มุมมอง 1.8K6 ปีที่แล้ว
Wayne Goldman Model 534 Hacksaw Mitre Box
OpenBuilds MiniMill Unboxing and Parts Description
มุมมอง 4.7K7 ปีที่แล้ว
OpenBuilds MiniMill Unboxing and Parts Description
HK A-430 Review - Part 3: Outdoor Flight
มุมมอง 2257 ปีที่แล้ว
HK A-430 Review - Part 3: Outdoor Flight
HK A-430 Review - Part 2: Modes and Transmitter Instructions
มุมมอง 1.9K7 ปีที่แล้ว
HK A-430 Review - Part 2: Modes and Transmitter Instructions
HK A-430 Review - Part 1: Unboxing and Indoor Maiden
มุมมอง 5057 ปีที่แล้ว
HK A-430 Review - Part 1: Unboxing and Indoor Maiden
Stripping "Stretchy" Insulation from Small Gauge Wire
มุมมอง 7447 ปีที่แล้ว
Stripping "Stretchy" Insulation from Small Gauge Wire
Eachine Beecore F3 EVO Brushed FC - from Banggood
มุมมอง 7K7 ปีที่แล้ว
Eachine Beecore F3 EVO Brushed FC - from Banggood
FLAPS at Waterloo Community Center - 12/2/2016
มุมมอง 537 ปีที่แล้ว
FLAPS at Waterloo Community Center - 12/2/2016
Custom Frames from Armattan Productions - UnEnveloping
มุมมอง 3777 ปีที่แล้ว
Custom Frames from Armattan Productions - UnEnveloping
This is quite helpful. One question i have is about making changes. Suppose you decided to change the 6mm radius on the acute angles to 5mm or lengthen the arns. Is there a quick way for that or does it take a lot of manual rework?
I don't believe QCad offers the functionality of having drawing elements change when changing dimensions (like autocad for fusion360). If it does, I don't know how to use it. There may be work arounds (you can "scale" a selected entity, but it's still going to be a more manual process and won't automatically adjust adjoining entities).
Thank you for creating this simple to follow along tutorial. It was a great way to dive in and actually try something in CAD as a first time nube. Really appreciated the process and trying out some of those specialty tool functions.
Thank you very much for the simple and useful information!
Best video out there. Appreciate.
Very good tutorial, I learned a lot, Thanks.
before buying , be aware that the $40 fee does not gives you access to the CAM plugin , you have Qcad pro , that's all , no CAM.I was trapped in this...
Yeah, unfortunately getting the version with CAM will set you back around $120. I just use the free community edition of QCad for design, and use the Fusion 360 manufacturing environment for my CAM. (I just use these for hobbies though, and not to make money.)
When starting to create something like this I would suggest that you take a moment to study what you envision for the final result- you have 4 arms and motor pads that are all the same, you have 16 of the small slotted holes and 2 of the long slotted holes. The first rule of CAD is to not draw the same thing twice. You could have created one of the arms including divisions and fillets, then you could copy and mirror it twice to get all 4 of them. You could have created one of the small slotted holes and copied and mirrored/rotated it. You could have created one of the long slots and copied it. This would have been a lot less work. However this is still a very good video to demonstrate the capabilities of the program and how to use various of the commands.
How ? This is not autocad
This was incredible helpful. Thank you.
Excellent way of introducing Qcad tools. Thanks for the video. Surely there is a fillet tool that could do the final rounding more easily though?
Thanks. There is such a tool - pointed out by Bzeemer in his comment earlier. It's the "Round (m)" command. It's in the Modify menu if I recall. I use it all the time now.
I'd love to see the bind procedure for this transmitter. Got mine online and it came with no instructions. I've tried everything I can think of including procedure for x5 and 7. Please help
I no longer have the plane, but ours came bound from the factory. I did a little looking and found an image of the page of the manual with the binding procedure: 3.bp.blogspot.com/-oPaKFi6stbg/WfoEWgXNOjI/AAAAAAAAM5g/A4DXuzLcV7QG5jROn7K4K2NJVq8GAP_rwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/XK-A-430-013.jpg The receiver is compatible with futaba s-fhss and evidently follows similar procedures to bind (turn on transmitter, plug in battery, and press button on receiver). There is a button in the battery compartment and that "might be" the bind button. If not, you have to cut open the canopy to get to the receiver. It also appears that most HK products follow similar procedures. Found this video: th-cam.com/video/bVUzqG6flq8/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps.
EXCELLENT ! Thanks for the clear, PROJECT BASED introduction.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. I used to be an AutoCad user and this program comes close to what I was used to draw with. I got a small tip for you to use the command "Round (rn)" to make an arc between two lines instead of "2 tangents and radius (ctr)".
Hey man - thanks for the tip! That will save me tons of time. Guess I should be exploring more of the tools in QCad...😉
Top notch!! finally someone who shows the design creation in context not just "how to draw a line" nonsense. This should get me going to make my aluminum hinges for my boat 🙂 Thank you.
I really enjoyed this video, you almost covered most of my questions. Thank you
What an amazing video. Very clean and concise use of this CAD tool in a practical application. I wanted a simple CAD tool to map out the boundary of my garden and I found testing various tools required intensive learning that was time consuming and tiring. This video showed how to find and use important tools in QCAD in a drawing example that would be applicable to most drawings. The only thing not covered was how to show dimensions on a separate layer. Thank you making this great video👍
Very useful, easy to follow tutorial to get started in QCAD, Tanks!
The first very good guide I found! Thank you!
who? cares...
Thanks for the video on a Mac!!! The Windows based videos are very difficult to follow!!!!!
Thank you very much! great tutorial however, I would like to see if you can help with architectural drawings and printing. I have been having problems with dimensions in foots and inches, somehow it does not show in the drawings and cannot get the grid measurements to draw in 1/4" = 1'-0"
Thanks! Sorry, I can't help you. I never use those features in QCad. I'm guessing they are probably there, but I'm not sure. You might check out some other tutorials or do a "search" for that feature.
I use dual Y? How to axis X perpeldiculer axis Y?
If you leave your spoil board attached and fixed in place (to keep your two y-rails parallel to each other), you should be able to use the same method. Note, that I have two brackets on each end of my single y-rail (one on each side). I loosened all but one and used that one as my pivot point. If you have 2 rails, then you probably have 8 brackets. You would loosen 7 of the brackets, and use the other one to pivot the entire assembly including spoil board. You DON'T want to do each individual rail separately with this method, because then the distance between your rails would change and you might get binding. Hopefully, you won't have to adjust much more than I did. You will have to take care to make sure your rails remain fixed relative to each other if you use this method. I think if I were attempting it, I would add some sort of fixture across each end of the rails to hold them together. (Like a couple of lengths of 20x20 extrusion bolted to each rail, or maybe a couple of pieces of wood with holes drilled and fastened to the tops of the rails with T-nuts. Or better yet, block your carriage and spoil board, front and back, centered on the axis to lock it in place.)
@@sloscotty how do I know how far off the y1-axis is from the y2-axis mm?
@@trieuhanminh1992 They should be parallel. If the distances aren't the same, you should definitely correct that. Can't advise you since I don't have dual y-axes.
@@sloscotty i don't understand (80000-80315)/80000?
@@trieuhanminh1992 It's just from the formula (at 6:59). a^2 + c^2 = 80000 ; b^2 = 80315.56; 2*a*c=80000. You might want to look up "Law of Cosines"
Thanks, that was an ideal introduction!
outstanding!
🤔😯😦😦🤯
I can not find QCAD at the app store?
You need to download directly from QCad: www.qcad.org/en/download See the link to the complete tutorial (in the video description above), for info on how to convert it from the "demo" to the "free" community version.
More useful than any university lecture, very well explained and easy to follow. If I can follow this anyone can.
What a wonderful teacher. Great tutorial.
You are kind - thanks!
Too fast for indoor.
I have a question! im not a huge Dewalt user as I have no dealt products and im in makita rigid porter cable and am not looking to have to buy even more accessories in another brand in case I want to use the motor for something else or after maybe another upgrade... I like Makita and I see you are using one! I am currently in the building of my mini mill which now after seeing this will be upgrading to the C-Beam Xl like yours ( a little different but to sizes I need) but none of my routers seem to fit so now I have to buy something else including a BIT I thought maybe there would be one in the kit but didnt matter its all a learning curve! anyway... does this makita RT0701C ( Im assuming ) drop right in? its 40 bucks less than the dewalt since I can get motor by itself.. anyway any input would be greatly appreciated!
The Makita RT0701 requires a reducing shim in the Open Builds spindle mount. I use a 3D printed one of my own design. ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:2496956 ). There are others, just look for anything that will adapt the 71mm opening to the 65mm makita.. (Ooznest has one: ooznest.co.uk/product/router-mount-adaptor/ - there may be others commercially available.)
@@sloscotty Thanks! ! Ill check it out, trying to decide do I want the Dewalt and make it easy or get something else that may fit with other tool parts I already have...
@@sloscotty Thanks for info... I went ahead and picked up the DeWalt and decided it will just be dedicated to this CNC build.. many seem to really like it and its already set up for it. but Glad for that information for next build!
veri naiss tutokas
Tere
GREAT! This is exactly what Im going to do!
This is a very helpful tutorial!
Super job 👏
Great idea. Looks like you're using a simple shopvac for fumes? do you filter the output? send it outside the house? Depends on what material you cut? Thanks!
Thanks! Yes that is a shopvac. No filter other than what is in the shopvac. I probably should take more care with the fumes, but I don't use it enough to be that elaborate (for my level of laziness...) ;)
Nice Job. Seems more effective than building a huge box around it. Did you use the laser to create the acrylic shapes?
Thanks! No, I used the Makita router that is usually attached to the same CNC machine. (Using the "milling" capabilities of the machine.) Edit: BTW, I did try to laser it, but the beam is not powerful enough to cut even dark acrylic that thick.
@@sloscotty Everytime I try to cut acrylic I fail.. melts and ugh...
@@ldboehm I used a 3/32" 2-flute bit with a spindle speed of ~12000 and a feed rate of 762 mm/min. I don't remember the step-down I used, but I'm sure I took it easy. If I remember correctly, I used step-downs similar to what I did for aluminum. Give it another try - and good luck!
@@sloscotty I'm new to CNC. Been 3d printing for years, time to step into something new
Хороший ноутбук.
Will you be shooting a video of this flying or maybe just showing the complete assembly? Thanks, Really formative video I was looking for a video to show how to make slots.
No, this "design" was kept basic and done just for this tutorial so people would have an idea of how to get started. I have used Armattan Productions to have other frames cut from other, more complete designs. They have a very good FAQ (including tips on designing slots for cutting). I recommend checking them out. (I hate to direct you to intoFPV again, but in the tutorial I linked above, I have a link to a thread about my experience with Armattan...;) ) And BTW, I have yet to fly any of my own designs - always finding other nice designs to use my electronics on...maybe someday.
Why are you sending us to sign up to a forum to have access to the "FULL Video" when it is actually the same length video"?
Thanks for your interest. It's a "more complete tutorial" (including installation instructions and other text explanations/answers), in addition to this video. And you do NOT have to "sign up" to read the entire thread. I only directed people there in case they wanted additional information that is not in this video. Sorry if I offended you.
@@sloscotty Not offended just didn't see the difference in the videos
Hey Scotty, sorry for the late reply. But do you have any footage of the machine actually milling?
I actually just realized that I don't. The only footage I have of the machine in action is with the laser: th-cam.com/video/OFPicI_DUZE/w-d-xo.html Shortly after that, I had to disassemble the machine for packing to move across the country. (And I am currently remodeling a room as my shop. I should have it back up in a couple of months. Sorry.)
Yuuuuusss can't wait to get mine!
Will that bord work with a 1sHv? Thanks
Yes, it should work OK. Input can be up to 5v.
What's your thoughts after using them?
I'm a relatively inexperienced pilot. I took over a year off from all of my RC hobby, because I moved across the country. Before that, I had tried several types of box-style goggles, and a couple of compact-style goggles. All of them had something "wrong" with them that hindered my ability to learn. I'm glad to say that these are finally what I needed to get me going again! They are very comfortable on my head and face, and even more important than that, I CAN ACTUALLY SEE WHAT I WANT TO SEE to fly!! So far, I'm only using them on the simulator, but man oh man, what a view! I've got a couple of new builds going that I can fly on my new small property - and I can't wait to use them for real! One more important thing: I was concerned doing the Kickstarter thing. Worried that with an "unproven" company, if something needed fixing, what would be my experience. I'm relieved to have found out that Orqa has been extremely responsive to reported issues - by other early backers, as well as myself. They've already issued two firmware updates (in less than 2 weeks), one of which fixed an issue I reported using HDMI with my Mac. I'm no longer worried about the company! There are better pilots to ask about the flight experience compared with other goggles - but I am extremely happy with mine! Good luck!!
@@sloscotty ... thanks for the reply. I'm New to FPV. I only want to buy one pair of goggles so I want the best of the best. Been struggling for months trying to decide which. Kind of discounted Orqa as an option then on a whim decided on the Orqa. Now I have to wait. Lol
@@jimscobie6646 FWIW, Orqa just released another firmware update today (this is v1.1.1 - the third update). They added a feature to let the user control Luminescence. I don't know if you watched Bardwell's review, but I think this latest update was to address one of his observations (about the HDO2's seeming "brighter"). Anyway they seem to be paying attention.
@@sloscotty yes! As a matter of fact I asked if they could fix it in an update. Thanks for that info!
Uh hurray I like to see that thank u so much
With 3D function??
No, no 3D function.
@@sloscotty regret
How do you charge the battery...or what do you need to charge it?
It depends on what charger you have. If your charger will do a balance charge alone, then you just plug the jst balance plug in. I have an FMA charger that lets me do that so that's how I charge. If you have a standard charger, you'll need a XT60 to barrel adapter like www.getfpv.com/female-barrel-connector-to-xt60-adapter-cable.html
Man I love this Video, just a Basic Video where you Show the Content, I really was missing this. Thank you 🙏
I'm so happy that you're happy with them. Now it's even harder for me to wait for mine!!! Enjoy !
so how do you change the batteries when they go bad if they dont come out of the case lol
There are 4 screws on the back of the case. The batteries are replaced WITHOUT any soldering or desoldering. You can carry extras to swap them in the field in a pinch, but you still have to remove and replace the 4 screws. Orqa will eventually sell replacement batteries, but you can use any 18500 size Li-ion. I picked up a couple of Panasonic NCR18500A 2040mAh cells for spares for $6 each (at 18650BatteryStore.com).
@@sloscotty cool the last review i watched the guy said they were non removable thanks for the info
@@jayward7536 no you just take the screws of and replace the old batteries if you ever need to
Thanks for sharing a Feedback on HDMI bug. We Are already fixing it for our next firmware update :) Fly Safe, -Ivan
This bug is fixed in Firmware version 1.1.0 :) Thanks for reporting it!
Jesus turn them on!!