![Hangar Queen](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Hangar Queen
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2008
Hi, I'm Greg, and I'm a tool addict.
I've been building a four-seat composite airplane from scratch "forever" -- with many long pauses for "other stuff" followed by frantic flurries of activity.
Lately, the other stuff has been setting up a hobbyist machine shop in my garage (mini-lathe, benchtop mill, TIG welder, horizontal bandsaw, plasma cutter, plus the usual drill press, grinder, belt sander, and 1001 hand tools). And now I'm getting into some modest camera equipment to document the journey.
Oh, a "Hangar Queen" is an airplane that never comes out of its hangar, for one of three typical reasons:
- It's being cannibalized for parts for other similar aircraft
- It requires a lot of expensive maintenance between each flight, so tends not to be used
- It's a valuable plane that the owner doesn't want to risk damaging
I was given the name while in the Hash House Harriers ("a drinking club with a running problem") while literally living in my hangar.
I've been building a four-seat composite airplane from scratch "forever" -- with many long pauses for "other stuff" followed by frantic flurries of activity.
Lately, the other stuff has been setting up a hobbyist machine shop in my garage (mini-lathe, benchtop mill, TIG welder, horizontal bandsaw, plasma cutter, plus the usual drill press, grinder, belt sander, and 1001 hand tools). And now I'm getting into some modest camera equipment to document the journey.
Oh, a "Hangar Queen" is an airplane that never comes out of its hangar, for one of three typical reasons:
- It's being cannibalized for parts for other similar aircraft
- It requires a lot of expensive maintenance between each flight, so tends not to be used
- It's a valuable plane that the owner doesn't want to risk damaging
I was given the name while in the Hash House Harriers ("a drinking club with a running problem") while literally living in my hangar.
Endmill sharpening #1: Adjustable ball jig
This is part 1 of a series I’m making to (hopefully) build an appropriate jig/fixture to be able to sharpen/renew my many dull and broken endmills. The jig will be somewhat general purpose so that it can also be for various other work holding.
I plan on using several “off the shelf” parts for the main adjustable parts of the jig, but for THIS video, I’m making a custom ball/socket clamp for “infinite” adjustability in tilt/swivel/rotation. It will form an important interface between the height-adjusting base and the X-Y moving mill table top.
Key sections:
00:00 Part 1: Introduction
05:39 Part 2: Making the ball socket indents
08:49 Part 3: Cutting the base dovetail
10:12 Part 4: Attaching the jaws to the base
12:21 Part 5: Making the clamping mechanism
14:34 Part 6: Chamfering for additional rod clearance (and jig appearance)
15:42 Part 7: Attaching the rod to the ball
19:19 Part 8: Powder coating and reassembly
Parts list:
- 1” chrome steel balls (pack of 10): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAGAWD2
- 10mm SS threaded rod: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FQN57HQ
- 10mm lever handle (pack of 6): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C9Z8T7MS
- Roll pin kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WZPFLE
Harold Hall has lots of good tool sharpening information and jigs:
- His “Home metalworking workshop” channel: www.youtube.com/@homemetalworkingworkshop3365
- His introduction: th-cam.com/video/n3Z-si383uM/w-d-xo.html
- His demo of sharpening an end mill: th-cam.com/video/mMZt6m52j2M/w-d-xo.html
- And his web page about sharpening in general: homews.co.uk/page224.html
Music:
Kurraba by Peyruis - soundcloud.com/peyruis
Licensed under a Creative Commons License creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
Support by RFM - NCM: th-cam.com/video/KIiKGBhVCi0/w-d-xo.html
-
Fading by Sappheiros is licensed under a Creative Commons License
www.soundcloud.com/sappheirosmusic
th-cam.com/video/q6768nhkEwo/w-d-xo.html
-
Perfect by Ikson - www.soundcloud.com/ikson
Support by RFM - NCM: th-cam.com/video/VboKyeQ9h2w/w-d-xo.html
-
Awake By Sappheiros is licensed under a Creative Commons License
www.soundcloud.com/sappheirosmusic
th-cam.com/video/q6768nhkEwo/w-d-xo.html
I plan on using several “off the shelf” parts for the main adjustable parts of the jig, but for THIS video, I’m making a custom ball/socket clamp for “infinite” adjustability in tilt/swivel/rotation. It will form an important interface between the height-adjusting base and the X-Y moving mill table top.
Key sections:
00:00 Part 1: Introduction
05:39 Part 2: Making the ball socket indents
08:49 Part 3: Cutting the base dovetail
10:12 Part 4: Attaching the jaws to the base
12:21 Part 5: Making the clamping mechanism
14:34 Part 6: Chamfering for additional rod clearance (and jig appearance)
15:42 Part 7: Attaching the rod to the ball
19:19 Part 8: Powder coating and reassembly
Parts list:
- 1” chrome steel balls (pack of 10): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAGAWD2
- 10mm SS threaded rod: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FQN57HQ
- 10mm lever handle (pack of 6): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C9Z8T7MS
- Roll pin kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WZPFLE
Harold Hall has lots of good tool sharpening information and jigs:
- His “Home metalworking workshop” channel: www.youtube.com/@homemetalworkingworkshop3365
- His introduction: th-cam.com/video/n3Z-si383uM/w-d-xo.html
- His demo of sharpening an end mill: th-cam.com/video/mMZt6m52j2M/w-d-xo.html
- And his web page about sharpening in general: homews.co.uk/page224.html
Music:
Kurraba by Peyruis - soundcloud.com/peyruis
Licensed under a Creative Commons License creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
Support by RFM - NCM: th-cam.com/video/KIiKGBhVCi0/w-d-xo.html
-
Fading by Sappheiros is licensed under a Creative Commons License
www.soundcloud.com/sappheirosmusic
th-cam.com/video/q6768nhkEwo/w-d-xo.html
-
Perfect by Ikson - www.soundcloud.com/ikson
Support by RFM - NCM: th-cam.com/video/VboKyeQ9h2w/w-d-xo.html
-
Awake By Sappheiros is licensed under a Creative Commons License
www.soundcloud.com/sappheirosmusic
th-cam.com/video/q6768nhkEwo/w-d-xo.html
มุมมอง: 316
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Really cool the simpler the better.
Hi,Greg. I see you have found Harold Halls treasure trove of information on building custom grinding tables and jigs.
Ya, Harold made a great resource for us all to learn from. I'm so sorry that I got "stalled" in making my jig. TONS of travel and other urgent stuff over the past several months. Back home, but not QUITE ready yet to get back at it. Hopefully next week will be clear.
You could also have set the bandsaw vertical to make that once you flipped the peice around
Your fixed jaw will be too long for a 45 degree cut. Make another fixed jaw etender and cut to fit.
I see your point/concern. I've frankly never cut anything other than square on this bandsaw -- at least while holding the part flat, (I *have* cut some odd angles while holding the part vertically.) I also have a portable bandsaw that I've used many times to cut smaller parts held in my table vice -- sometimes at crazy angles. So I've never had to adjust the fixed jaw of this horizontal bandsaw from its 90 degree position -- and may never need to do so. If/when the time comes that I have to swivel the fixed jaw and I find that it's too long, I'll cut through it at the same time as cutting the part. No big deal. Meanwhile, the "max length" fixed jaw keeps my 90 degree parts held firmly. Thanks for your comment, as I'd not considered this when making the jaws. It's a valid point, but just not one that I'm personally not concerned with at the moment.
This is just something that we figured out at my work. For cutting copper on the bandsaw. My friend sprayed this stuff called Citrus solve. (a degreaser brand here in Ontario Canada). Anyway, we were surprised when a couple of squirts from a bottle into the cut worked magic. The copper cuts much better! So since then, that's what I've always done myself.
Who can afford copper these days?! But I'll keep your degreaser tip in mind in case I ever need to cut a chunk of it on the bandsaw. Thanks.
Thanks dor this video Helpful for many reasons
A 1/2" bolt normally has a 3/4" head It's fairly clear that your 1/2" drill rod is much larger than he bolt your pulley is fastened to which I suspect is actually 3/8" A 3/8" bolt normally has a 9/16" head Glad you titled the video z and x Axis but I understand it's easy to say y axis early on when referring to the z axis I do like your efforts and it gave me ideas for my Bridgeport clone Kent mill I will be trying to fit a used x Axis power feed to my y axis but it didn't come with the limit switch but your style would do me I believe
where to find lifting mechanism? which part of the machine? thank you
I’m sorry but I don’t understand your question. The saw is hinged at the motor end and tilts up vertically., manually. What “lifting mechanism” are you looking for?
HSS are junk. Get a carbide insert parting tool and enjoy the process. I just made a Short vid a few days ago of a dry cut parting operation on 3/4 mild steel. EZ peezy. So many vids on this it is quite ridiculous. We only need one vid on how to do it right, so I made one. Hint, running the carbide fast is a no no. Hint 2 all deflection must be dealt with. Your holder creates deflection as it is spring loaded. Not a good idea. Also if the chuck unscrews (as it does on most lathes) it would be a very bad day. Learn to do it the right way instead of re-inventing the wheel. Just a suggestion. Forge On!!! Make chips that dont need dips!
Did you watch my video? I have two carbide-insert parting tools. Unfortunately neither has the reach to cut a 1" round -- whereas I can stick out the HSS as far as necessary for the diameter. The spring/deflection of this cutoff tool holder is of course intentional, and (as some others have found), the spring seems to help greatly with not having the blade "dig in" and stop my underpowered lathe. In a follow-on video, I use the same HSS and inverted spring-style holder to part hard SS (with mist coolant) on this same lathe -- and it worked very well indeed. My video also covered and cautioned about running in reverse with an unscrewing style of chuck. Mine is NOT the unscrewing kind, of course. I appreciate that you made your video about cutting off techniques, and I'll certainly give it a watch. Doesn't mean there can't be more videos covering the same or similar issues from different perspectives. Peace.
Why did you didn't try 3d print those hinges?
Good question. I own an Ender 3 v2. Not-so-good answer: 'coz I simply didn't think about it! It would've been a whole lot easier to 3D print these hinges, and they would *probably* be strong enough. Not as much fun though. :-)
😄 promo sm
I liked Phil’s grinder design a lot and thought that was the style I was going to make. Not owning a mill really puts restrictions on doing that ☹️ I came across Jeremy’s 2nd gen design and I was sold on that. Thank you for sharing your grinder and modifications to it, as well as insight.
Jeremy’s is great, and was very strongly in contention for my grinder. His is clearly the best to make if you have no mill but do have welding capabilities. Good luck on your build.
I'm interested to see how this turns out 👍
Honestly, I am too! I'm only 82.4% confident that I'll have the rigidity necessary once all of the jig parts are "stacked up". But even if I fail, it's always fun to get out there and try something different. And I can likely find other uses for the individual components, down the road. I'll use this opportunity to warn that my "Part 2" will be delayed, as I have some personal business/travel to attend to. (And that's why I cheated with a background soundtrack rather than lots of voice-over on this Part 1: I needed to get a bunch of stuff organized before my travel but also wanted to publish this Part 1 before leaving) It may be three weeks for Part 2; maybe a whole month. Sorry about that, but I hope you'll come back to see.
@@HangarQueen no worries, safe travels 👋
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
First and foremost, thanks for sharing. Now I'm going to offer a bit of tough love. You sound like you're trying to finish explaining before you succumb to pulmonary embolism and you've included a lot of irrelevant fluff (video that isn't required to explain your dilemma or solution). The world market for attention will not forgive you for either of these.
I don't think it's the size of the lathe big or small. I just think it's the skills!!! The skill that I don't have. I've tried to reverse method too; someday I think I'm going to get good at it. Your video was interesting. I watch many videos of pairing off, and talk to many old timers that feel my pain. It's more of a field skill thing.
Thanks for this. I've been wanting to do this with my mill and your first video was great so I've been waiting to see if you were going to release this follow up
Thanks for the comment -- and I'm sorry that it took me SO LONG to get around to this follow-up.
Great cutoff tool. I have a 7x16 mini lathe that I added a 1 hp servo sewing motor to. I can't say enough good things about that conversion. Has more than enough torque even at 200 rpm.
Thankyou for a more pragmatic approach to a machining video. I like the idea of the focus on the project rather than long periods of just making chips. I look forward to more of this sort.
Thanks Bruce. I agree that long videos of "making chips" can get pretty tedious/repetitive. (Although I can easily watch hours of @Clickspring machining videos ... so beautifully filmed and produced!) I'll do my best to focus on the project for future videos. (Speaking of which, I'm long overdue for my next. Better get on that pronto.)
@@HangarQueen Yeah, Chris is on a whole other level. But even the parts where he is just cutting chips are short and to the point. He really has nailed it for a balance of such things. Anyway, I forgot to mention that you earned another Subscriber with this first video for me. I've made only two videos and I realized what it takes to make truly entertaining videos. And your work hits that threshold in fine form.
Very cool! I found this while poking around for misters...DIY with links for parts in video [this is not my video or a shill link] th-cam.com/video/ROwWxrqhO1w/w-d-xo.html
Retired machinist / electrical engineer here. I concur with what the other commenter said, mist coolant requires good ventilation or preferably an extraction / filtration setup for OHS. You're better off using flood coolant, the semi-synthetic soluble oil additives can be carcinogenic with extended exposure. Be safe.
Thanks for your comment and concern, truly. Please see the wall of text that I just wrote in reply to the earlier commenter above. I will be more aware of the danger and more cautious in my use of my "misters" in future. And I hope that others are reading these comments to also be aware of the danger.
Hey recently found your channel and I've been binge watching all your build videos, really informative stuff there! It's just that right now I can't help but to be thar guy that comes out just to point at other people's mistakes, but from what I've read/learned/been taught and trained on, coolant is only "mistless" air blast (like an air hose) "mistless" meaning no coolant, or a full flood coolant system, every material I've been given at work and taught at school/self-taught says that mist coolant systems are really hazardous for our health seeing as it generates atomized particles of already harmful coolant and of what ever else it picks up (the material you are machining). I myself had issues breathing in coolant that started boiling cause I ran a cycle too hard and too hot on the CNC and a large geared lathe, and also using a mist coolant system on manual machines, especially a small toolroom lathe and milling machine. Wouldn't recommend even if you are not doing it regularly like I was and was exposed to it for 8 hours straight every day, now I have chronic bronchitis thanks to it 😅 Sorry for the long ass story but I felt like I needed to share, hope you understand, wish you nothing but the best. (Also quick foot note there's an artisan makes video, Australian machining channel where he hooks up a flood coolant system to his lathe, worth checking it out)..
Thank you for your detailed comment and concern. Don't worry about being "that guy", and I'm thrilled that you've been binge-watching my stuff. 🙂 I'm subscribed to "Artisan makes" and am familiar with his flood cooling video. I truly appreciate that you're trying to keep me safe, and I'm truly sorry about your chronic bronchitis. You have me somewhat scared of my misters now. But to put it in perspective and/or rationalize my decision to use the misters:: - I didn't want to go down the flood coolant route 'coz it's a lot of work, but mostly a lot of mess. - I use coolant infrequently on the lathe (only for parting). Granted, however, I've been using it on the mill a lot more (for facing and for heavier cuts). - I have a fan right next to the mill that I can turn on to blow the mist/debris away from me if needed. I know that's nowhere near as good as proper extraction, but the amount of mist seems SO small in my usage that I'm OK with it. - The coolant has a distinctive smell in the bottle, but I've never smelt it while using my misters - I have the misters set to just barely dribble out the liquid. And with the airflow set as low as possible. this coolant comes out more as drops than actual mist. (Yes, if I crank up the air volume, it does indeed MIST -- but then I'll turn it back down again quickly.) - The SDS on the TRIM coolant that I'm using says that it's quite safe. It specifically says “No adverse effects due to inhalation are expected”. I know there's almost nothing that is completely benign to breathe in, so of course I'll avoid it as much as possible - I mix it at low concentration (5%) in the water, reducing its impact further - With the foot pedals, I turn on the misting "on demand" during the cuts, using as little as possible; it's not an "always on" situation - I'm retired, not a young machinist with 50+ years ahead of him, breathing in junk. - In my youth, I was an avid motocross racer (from age 9 to 17), long before we worried about what we we breathing; long before masks were used. OMG, I've breathed/eaten so much fine dust and swallowed so much leaded gasoline (siphoning from parents cars). During my 20's and 30's, I did a LOT of electronics soldering using highly leaded solder in closed rooms. SO bad for you. But I still have zero health problems (knock on wood!). I don't mean to pass that off as "macho" or "nothing can hurt me", because I know that's entirely NOT true. Now that I know about these hazards, I'm of course much more careful with what gets into my body. And you've alerted me to the hazards of misting. Thank you. I hope to still have 30 more years in me and don't want to be causing problems down the road, so I'm taking what you wrote to heart. I will be extra cautious in my future machining to minimize the use of the misters, keep their mist quantity as low as possible, use better ventilation, and consider wearing a mask when using them. Thank you again for your comments/concern/experience.
How about a sewing machine motor they have high torque and variable speed u to 1 hp I think ?
Well my MX-210V is advertised as 1100W, which is almost 1.5HP. Variable speed DC motor. The problem is that it produces only a fraction of that at slow speeds -- which is where I need lots more power for parting. I don't think a sewing machine motor would be an upgrade to this; same issue. What I really need is a 220V three-phase 2HP motor with its speed controlled by a VFD, similar to what I have on my belt grinder. I'll do that eventually, but I have a long list of other things that I'd like to do first. Just a few minutes ago in the garage, I was experimenting with mist cooling on the part -- and I was able to part off that stainless steel that I failed on earlier! But the mist was "all over the place" and causing a breathing hazard. I've just ordered a small pump and tubing and valves and etc so that I can hopefully have a steady slow drip of coolant (or cutting fluid) on the part instead. Two days before the parts get here. With lubrication on the part, it seems that I may have JUST enough power from this little lathe. I'll record some video for a follow-up "soon".
Kind of new to this, if you don't mind what metal did you make it out of?
Thanks for asking. If you click on the "More..." under the video description, you'll find that I just now have added some detail on the material and dimensions of the tool.
This is the best cut-off blade holder that I have seen yet!
Parting off on most all smaller lathe really should be done under flood coolant. The difference I found is truly night and day. I went through the same struggle as you did with a much larger machine (3 H.P 13” Clausing Metosa 1330) and was basically ready to just throw in the towel. I had flood coolant from the beginning but never used it because of all the “horror stories” about bacteria, and water damage and all the common concerns about using flood coolant. Figured I’d try since it was literally the last thing I could try. Imagine my surprise when it cut through 304 stainless in the first attempt with not a hint of chatter. Just a basic cut off blade and haven’t had a problem since. I can use carbide, HSS, cut slow, cut fast, it’s like I unlocked the master level and all I did was flip on a switch and mix up some flood coolant. Now I use it on everything! But I just wanted to share my experience. I’m still going to build a spring loaded version like you and try it without coolant. But if you have a means for flood coolant or your mist coolant perhaps? Anyway I enjoyed your video. 👍🏻 have a great day.
If you mill off the lip flush with the top of the plate, I think you would be able to get back to 90 degrees.
Yes, that would give me 90 degrees exactly, and solidly. And I did consider doing that (as I think I commented in the video). But with more of the round bar milled off, it would sacrifice being able to adjust the higher angles between about 80 and 89.99 degrees As it is currently, I can safely adjust it from 0 through about 86.5 degrees. And of course I can already get 90 by removing the platen from the round bar and clamping it directly into the vice upright. So I'm going to leave it alone. As I commented in the video, if I were to do it again, I'd do it exactly as Mr Pragmatic Lee suggested in his YT video, and mill the cutout so that the platen is exactly flush with the top of the rod, and exactly at the centerline. Water under the bridge. It works well enough for my needs as it is. I hope I'll never need an 87.5 degree angle. ;-)
Socket cap head screws would have been easier and taken up less room. but that is hindsight at this point.
I do have the mop and I don't have the machine shop. Any chance you would sell a set? Nice properly engineered fix!
Good stuff, smart design comprises / choices to simplify the build. It'd be great if you could share the drawings, cheers.
Thanks "HM". As with many of my amateur machining projects thus far, I just leapt into making it, with no formal plans. I used the metal that I had on hand, with a rough design/plan in my head, and worked out the details as I went along. As evidenced by the video, I made a change along the way (adding the tool depth "cap" as a separate piece rather than integrated), and messed up the attachment screw placement (I could've shifted the attachment a tad to allow longer screws at the rear). I realize now that both of those small issues could've been avoided if I'd taken the time to make a detailed Fusion360 diagram from the start. I really need to get into the habit of doing so (while getting better at Fusion360 modeling). 😕 So anyway, sorry, but I don't have any plans to share at the moment. If you head over to Winky's Workshop (link in my video comments), you'll see that he offers free plans for his. Mine is loosely modeled from his, while: - Making it inverted (upside-down blade) - Integrating the dovetail QCTP attachment into the base - Using a different approach to blade clamping - Screwing rather than welding the two parts together. Again, I'll start with Fusion360 diagrams for future projects where it makes sense.
Oh, and now I've just found your channel. You've got some good stuff there too! Subscribed. :-)
@@HangarQueen haha I suck at winging it, end up messing something up. I rewatched your video and have a rough idea. I'll put together some drawings for me in freecad before I start making one 😆 Thanks!
Love to hear details on your face mill and inserts. That’s at the top of my buy-next list.
Hey John. Here's the link to the indexable face mill: www.amazon.com/dp/B08FCFHLK4
... And the inserts: www.amazon.com/dp/B01F4AYLJ6
@@HangarQueen THANK YOU.
Just found your channel today - good stuff. Subscribed!
I used to have issues parting off and I have a similar collection of parting tools. After watching Blondiehacks video on the topic I got better, but Winky's video, along with yours, make me think this might be the way to go.
as a side note, i would strongly suggest to move the DRO to the other side. also consider reverse mounting the DRO, readout head on the cross slide (if necessery all the way on the back), and the slide fixed, if necessary sticking out to the back.
after checking the gibs, you can try to mount the cut off tool upside down, and run the lathe in reverse. also, check your tool height, as this will chatter badly as well
@16min I think you need to look into tightening your gibs all around. as you are yanking on the STP, there seems to be actual play. easy to verify with a DTI and a mag base
Interesting set of projects there. I have seen other makers doing the overhanging compound eliminator before. I'm sure it puts lot of torque on the tool cross slide, but they were happy with the change. Happy experimenting, anyway. It's your setup - I'm just along for the ride. I'm typing this half-way through while this is fresh in my mind.
I had a hard time following this one. You start talking about the compound eliminator then your DRO then your chip shield then back and forth between several topics. Too much coffee?
Thanks for the feedback Mark, and sorry that I was trying to pack too much into one video. Ya, it went off on several side projects. While I had things apart, I decided to address another issue (the cross-slide DRO reader bracket) and another (the DRO chip shield), plus another couple of random items. I'll try to keep on point in future.
Take a few steps back and look at where your tool is in relation to the carriage and contact surface to the bed. Now look at the tool location on the lathe in the video of the tool you plan to replicate. You have "Created" a cat dancing on a hot tin roof. Also, without rigidity and high speeds, a carbide part off is causing you more problems. Search how to sharpen a hss part off tool and use that knowledge until you create a rigid set up for carbide. Putting a chip breaker in your hss blade will reduce tool pressure. Putting your tool back over the carriage will be your best reverse course.
Thanks Charlie. I'm sorry that I neglected to show a "before" video trying a cutoff tool in the original block -- where it was indeed over the carriage. Honestly it was worse still. But I'm comparing aluminum (old, above carriage) to steel (new, left of carriage); apples and oranges. I was aware before making this block that offsetting the tool to the left would cause some potential twisting of the cross slide on the carriage. I was hoping that, by keeping the gibs tight, this wouldn't be a problem. And of course if I still had the original compound installed, it would easily introduce an offset (though could be adjusted to no offset). Anyway, I want to maintain the left offset of my "compound eliminator", if at all possible, to compensate for my DRO scale so that I can part off close to my 3- or 4-jaw chuck jaws. I'm hoping that by adding the spring style cutoff tool holder (coming up soon), it will eliminate (or at least greatly reduce) the chatter. I'll be using HSS in the new spring-style tool holder, as in the Winky's Workshop design. I'll try it first "as is" (angled at 5 degrees up, as usual), and then with a chip breaker. BTW, the HSS tool that I briefly showed in my video (but didn't demonstrate) is a thinned-down blade 'coz I wanted it to cut a thin groove for a snap ring. And it does have a chip breaker ground into it. Still chatters in both the old and new setups. :-/ If I can't find a way to eliminate chatter with the offset block and spring style holder and HSS with a chip breaker, then I may indeed have to go back to a straight-up block. Or buy better hearing protection. ;-)
@@HangarQueen Rather than chase your tail and follow gimmick ideas and tools. Visit a real machine shop. I recently visited my old stomping grounds. One of NA largest jobbing shops still have 50 plus manual lathes and not one of them have read read outs on their cross slides. Mounting it where you did is more bonkers. Looks like money powers over skills for you. Unsubscribed
@@charlieharper981 Not sure you'll see this since you've now unsubscribed. (Sorry to see you go.) You had good advice earlier. I explained in this video why I chose the left side for the DRO scale: The right side has the gib screws and the carriage lock. Additionally, placing it there would reduce carriage travel when the DRO bumped against the tailstock. I'm sure that an expert machinist has no issues using cross-slide dials. I'm clearly not an expert machinist, and rely on my cross-slide DRO constantly to easily and accurately set depths of cut to hit dimensions. I'd like to keep it. The ONLY issue with the DRO on the left side is, as I show in the video, possible interference with the 3- or 4-jaw chuck when holding materials larger than about 1 1/4 inches and wanting to do a squared cut -- like when parting. Using my ER32 collet chuck (80% of the time) had no issue. But since I was remaking the compound eliminator anyway, I thought I'd try adding this left offset so that I can now get a squared-up parting tool flush against the larger chuck jaws. Of course I've added torque on the cross slide by doing this. But even with the original block (with no offset), I got a lot of chatter when parting. It's a small machine without much mass or rigidity. Finally, I feel the need to comment on your "more money than skills" snipe. It's true that I'm trying to learn new skills, and welcome constructive criticism. But honestly, if I had more money I'd surely not have bought such a cheap (under $1000) lathe. I'm just trying to make it better, within my very limited hobby budget.
Great video. I am replicating what you did on my mill. Do you have a wiring schematic on how you made the limit switches stop the motor but you are still able to make it run back the other way. I am also interested in the wiring for the turbo button. Thank you very much.
I don't have that robot but I do have a home machine shop and I enjoy watching how people use their machine shop tools. Nice job!
Thanks Paul. You're one of the very few who watched this oddball video. I think I spent more hours making the hinges and video than it got views. Oh well, I had fun making it, and glad you enjoyed. Thanks for stopping by.
2:42 In a jam you can usually fit a nut.
Nice technique! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the thanks. :-) I wish I'd been properly recording the DRO for the entire process, as intended, but hopefully it was still understandable.
Wow. This is well engineered. Very nice work. Thanks for the video, you've given me a lot of ideas.
Thanks! I'm getting a LOT of use (near constant) out of both the Z- and X-axis power feeds.
안녕하세요. 1마력에 rpm1750 모터로 샌드벨트그라인더를 제작해도 가능한가요? 조언 부탁드립니다.
수고하십니다. 1마력에 rpm1750 모터로 샌드벨트그라인더를 제작해도 가능할까요? 답장부탁드립니다.
You've never seen me crank a cross slide by hand😂😂. I can go to the Olympics of hand cranking. I am going to try a wipermotor like Yours and if it doesn't work I'm going to a nema 32 stepper
Nice job well thought out and it looks good too!!.
Good