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Those cables look really cool! I hate having to wind up cables and have a huge rats nest when trying to charge various things. I bet these would be perfect for a workshop or something were you might have a metal strip or wall that you can store them on to toss the cable on so its out of the way but still have full access to it. And being magnetic also makes it easier to find them if you lose them like I do lol. Great video! I'm also really excited to see the 3D scanner and the CNC videos, I'm hoping to be able to use my CNC this summer

Your review of A1 is THE BEST that I have found in TH-cam. I have been worried about the noise of the printer but now I’m going to buy one 😍😍 . GOOD JOB! THANKS!

Is the A1 much quieter?

Great Video and great information. Looking forward to keep watching your content.

ill order the ams lite in few weeks have to save up for it

i have a1 mini awsome machine have a1 be here tomorrow

Excellent. I just did this same dual PSI setup on my Chinese 100W machine. Works perfectly and was not too spendy.

Does anyone have a link to that particular rocket model? It seems smooth and the ones on thingiverse are full of polygons.

My old printer can start a print within 2-3 minutes of powering it up! Can those leveling etc. checks be skipped?

I think I like the pillow Idea better lol. I need to get pavers for mine, I used to use them on the old bed slingers but haven't done it to my P1S yet. I also never used the packing foam underneath so I will need to do that! I knew the pavers made a difference but I think the thick packing foam made an even bigger difference. You should try to 3D print some TPU feet to see how they compare to the pavers.

Do you have a muffler for the rear intake fan? It makes a notice difference.

At 4:28 - after following your directions - when I flip my machine on - it grinds. And the rotary doesn't spin. I can't really find much for information on this and I'm stumped.

I enjoyed your detailed TH-cam video, and I think we have identical machines, except Kt322N controller I'm having a problem. I wired the LP solenoid to the status terminal and air flows as soon as the machine is turned on. The HP solenoid works fine When I'm running a job with the Lightburn air assist turned on, both solenoids are on. I assumed that the output terminals would be live only when the laser is on. I'm finding that this is the case only with the HP solenoid wired to the air terminal Any suggestions? Thanks! Dale

you can easily rotate an object by selecting the object and hitting the "."period key to rotate clockwise and the ","comma key to rotate counter clockwise, both by 90°. I very happy when I found this shortcut method to rotate. Great video, Cheers!

Check out sorbothane washers, I use four of them (one for each foot) on my Voron with a 3d printed mount for them and they helped cancel out the vibrations transfered to my desk 10 fold!

Set it on the floor and check the noise by the way. A thin hollow table Is like a guitar body. Some other guy put a cement block under his printer I think.

what about adding spikes between the printer and the heavy plate? this is how i isolated hifi speakers in the past. also for desktop computers what is done is heavy bitumen layers on the side panels to reduce vibration and foam all around to absorb noise.

This is exactly what Im going to do when my P1S arrives (ordered it yesterday). Is that a portable table? I would be concerned the table is not sturdy enough to run a printer on it. Thanks for sharing.

ciao i morsetti li posso utilizzare su tutti i tipi di rotary?

I think that it's way over priced. The lack of quality control and overall cheapness is a deal breaker for me. We the customers should not be required to fix their products. I believe that i will just buy the Sunlu S4

exists a way to view a battery level?

Very helpful. Thank you.

Hey Rick, Thanks for all the great and useful information as always. I am starting the process of engraving tumblers. can you address how you stabilize the honeycomb bed for accurate placement of the rotary jig? My bed always seems to shift around when moving the rotary in/out of the machine. I'm using an Omtech AF2028-80w machine with a 4-wheel rotary. Calibrating actual positions with a sliding bed is frustrating. Do you have your honeycomb screwed into place for consistent laser positioning?

I got a new OMtech chuck rotary attachment today and I cannot get the jaws in evenly. I’ve tried everything! Can you please suggest a resolution?

One of ways to ease screw insertion might be putting heatshrink over tip of screwdriver, and inserting screw in it

Nice review. I like the sleeves-- definitely a good idea for this unit. Regarding Quality Control, mine arrived with an upside down control panel, and no matter what you clicked on the panel, if it was on, it went to 70+ C and stayed there. I took a photo of it running at 65 when the target temp was 50, and showing the inverted panel, and they instantly shipped me a new base, with instructions to toss the old one. So +10 for customer service, minus a whole lot for them not noticing it wasn't assembled properly before they shipped it. All in all, with a few mods, it seems like a good unit. I've been drying my antique filaments lately, and having issues because they don't fit (remember the short/fat spools?), so I think I'm going to print a rack to put them on. Or maybe remix a spool holder to fit inside and keep the spool elevated.

Great Video! I had it working from Brandt's video with a single solenoid and I could have just been on standby regulating the air pressure regulator but figured there was another way. Came across this video and it's great! I didn't pay close attention to the diode requirements so it's currently working with high and low pressure, but I'm ordering the diodes as an insurance policy. I really appreciate the thorough instructions.

if you did a fill with an outline would it tidy up the edges i have done that on wooden items and it makes the engraving look a bit tidier

I'd recommend the Photon Mono M5s Pro for a fully featured SLA printer to get started with. It's not the biggest build area, but SLA printing requires significantly more working space thanks to post-processing. A large format printer would multiply that space requirement as well as steepen the learning curve when you're just starting out.

I have an Elegoo Mars 2 SLA printer and it was really cool but its way outdated now and the print volume is so tiny. I do like Elegoo though and I didn't have any issues at all with the printer. I don't use it anymore because of the amount of post processing to finish a part and the smell is pretty strong but I have wanted to get back into it. I didn't know that they had clear resin like that though! I used translucent resign but it was never that clear. The SLS prints you got are incredible too, those machines are super expensive but really produce some great quality prints. I think this is a really good service for people to use when they need something that an FDM printer can't do or can't do as well as the other printers. FDM printers can be bought really cheap nowadays and most consumers who need 3D printed parts will probably own one, but the other services are well worth the cost. SLS printers alone can cost $30k easily so it would be crazy to spend that much on a machine just to print a few parts. I don't even know the costs of the other printers besides the SLA printers, but the clean up and smell is worth it to have outsourced as well unless you have a cure and wash station that can be pretty expensive too. I haven't looked too much into the new SLA printers but I know they are getting faster. Not sure if Elegoo has a faster one out, but I think I would stay with that company myself because I had such a great experience with Elegoo all around. They are usually more affordable too for what they offer. Maybe they will send you a printer to review! lol I heard Phrozen printers are pretty good as well but they seem more expensive for the same specs as the Elegoo printers.

how much noisy then the A1 ?

I have considered outsourcing prints as I have little room for a printer at home.

Another great informative video with a great honest review! This seems like a pretty decent laser for people who are getting into the hobby, especially since they have the settings tuned in the app already. Even though running calibration tests are better to fine tune the laser, this takes a lot of guess work out of it. The app needs some work obviously but its nice to have for people who don't want to take the leap on lightburn in the beginning. I started on a $300 5.5w output laser in 2022 and it didn't have an air assist. I had a lot of fun with it even though it was slower but it was exactly what I needed to get into my CO2 and fiber.

On the usb you have to keep the microsd card in the machine while using usb drive . 🍀

The other 2 screws is permanently mounting panda touch in place to p1s your are not able to use remotely then .

I just bought the same printer and pander touch . No wiki link ? Ty for review

Are you making the chuck video on a 80 Watt Omtech?

Useful video, thanks

tbh i was gonna get the a1 mini but i think i’m just gonna wait another month for the regular a1

Thanks for the review, I am looking for a dryer, Polyphemus is on the top of the list. My only concern with the polyphemus is regarding the motor drive. Is the motor permanently engaged on the rollers? If it is it would create extra drag on the filament when printing from the dryer box. I was thinking of TPU as possibly the most impacted. Have you noticed any issues regarding this? Thanks. After my comment I have just read a comment below regarding the motor engaging or not engaging, so it may not be a problem.

Has anyone received a replacement heat bed yet? I have not.

They are really proving their strength in the Market. This is the kind of thing Makerbot and Ultimaker and other companies miss out on. They always act like once you buy it, it's your problem.

Shame they steal intellectual property and arent compatible with octoprint for no reason whatsoever, they look like decent printers

Very well done! Love the microscope view. Proves things without a doubt.

Have you considered the following hack : replace the plastic panels with some insulating material, cork for example. Considering the construction, it should be pretty easy to do.

I have same pool cleaner, exactly 5 year mark and still going strong.

Placing the motor right next to the heating element is not a good design, as heat degrades the lifespan of electronics. This is better than the Cyclops, but they still have a work to do, the design could be much better.

Motor will die after 1,500 hours? Wait, what? LOL

How can we get access to your jig for the rotary wheel? I tried and tried to make one and saw your videos, love them! I tried goole drive, but doesn't work.

Just installed mine, thank you, you made it easy for install