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Thanks, but I still hate myself a little for saying "Blage"

I was not powering blows as hard as I could, true. The thing is...It's against a tree. Which within the framework of what was being done here is an object with an amount of inertia that is effectively impossible to overcome. Definitely not the kind of object you want to give it your all against, unless your aim is hairline fractures, torn tendons, and a concussion or worse. I used the amount of force I intuited to be most effective while still remaining somewhat accurate and staying relatively safe. However there is more force being used here than it may seem. There are some lessening effects in what is perceptible here. Firstly my body is largely out of frame much of the time. Notice many of the blows seem to be held against the target longer than they need to be. That's because there is some leaned in weight being applied as well as some push off. Also the padding does a lot to dampen sound.

@@The1Helleri fair enough. I wasn't trying to flame, to me it just didn't look like the amount of force I would expect to be applied in a real combat setting. But I appreciate the video nonetheless

@@m33tballa Perfectly fine. Rewatching it after all this time since I made it I can see how it doesn't have the look of being impactful and requires a bit of explanation. The fact of the matter is that a tree was not a great thing to strap the target to (just what I had to work with unfortunately). Would have been much better to have something with some give to it when struck. Oh but... since I made this I have read a really good book on the subject. A guy out of the University of Wisconsin basically did a crap ton of experimental archeology and collation of available information. It all went into a book called "Reconstructing Ancient Linen Body Armor: Unraveling the Linothorax Mystery" This book has some highly detailed information in it. They basically took all known images and references to the stuff from ancient times and organized it so they could do even as much as to point out stylistic changes between generations of wearers. Then they rigorously tested the crap out of their reconstructions after figuring out what methods were necessary to even make the stuff. This book even has pages of tables from their arrow fire tests showing weights, newtons of force, distances, draw weights, head types etc. and the results of each instance of testing. They even tried to see if doing things like offsetting the layers slightly improved their resistivity or deflective capability (the answer is not substantively enough to have been worth doing regularly). It's a really good read if one is interested in this sort of thing.

@@The1Helleri interesting, I mean, my understanding of linothorax is that it's protection is very limited but better than nothing. And also weighed about the same as bronze. Dunno why they didn't just use leather instead cos I feel like that would have better protection. *Edit: I forgot that lino has leather on the inside. The other interesting thing about lino is I've read that no one really knows exactly how it was made. The suggestion is wax and animal glues but I've read people claim that those materials wouldn't work in the Aegean climate. One of histories many mysteries I guess

​@@m33tballa So here is the thing to do with these sorts of claims and ideas about how it must have been that you've heard...Hold it up against the bare minimum facts of the matter. We know that Linothorax was used by soldiers in the region for hundreds of years. Why would they do that if it didn't work against the kind of threats they needed it t. Why would it be so prolifically abounding if the climate wasn't good for it? Why do we find absolutely zero examples of leather breast and back plates in actual artifact or depicted form if it was better? As for how much we know about how it was made. It's actually a lot. Scott Aldrete's work pretty much tied up the loose ends on the parts we were not sure about with actual experimentation and deep research. Like they took pictures of, chronologically organized, then analyzed over 700 decorated pieces of pottery depicting Linothorax. This allowed them to categorize the depictions by type and show even dated transitions in style. There's also something like 23 contemporary references to how it was made or what it consisted of. As well as some archeological scraps. and even preserved theater masks (which were made of glued layers of linen just like the armor). There's even in situ preserved lead weights from looms used to make the fabric. So we know a lot. I'd say it's really in the last 15 years that researchers, experimental archeologists and experts from various fields have managed to pull together the information that we've had for decades to paint the picture. But that picture is pretty clear by this point.

Animal glue (skin flakes) would have been typical. Most likely with some sort of hydrophobic and even antibiotic additives. If one wanted to use a likely near equivalent to the glue the ancient Greeks might have. They could use rabbit glue add maybe a teaspoon of powdered alum as well as a cap full or so of vinegar to every cup of dry product bloomed. We do not, likely will never, and possibly cannot know exactly what they did. It's probably not a fixed recipe that everyone knew either. There were likely many slightly different glues used depending on exact time and locality.

Not necessarily bad. Think of it this way. If it doesn't perform poorly against such a hard and immovable surface. How much better would it be on a body that has give and reacts to incoming blows. This test would be best classified as a limit of destruction test. Meaning it isolates everything but the performance of the material and it's construction. You could say it's how it performs under the worst case scenario. All that having been said... It's what I had to work with at the time. Perhaps at some future point I can revisit this with better materials and more true to life testing.

This didn't pan out unfortunately. The plates are far too malleable and the staple cut outs don't hold up well against abuse without curling the tips down and inward, which makes it a lot more labor intensive. It's also not very scalable. There isn't really an option for smaller or larger plate depending on what area of the body they cover. The plates also need a lot of filing as the edges are sharp. All around it's a fail brigandine. I have been experimenting more recently with roped/corded. Basically like a gambeson that uses columned pattern as apposed to checkered. But instead of batting it just uses cuts of rope/cord. This has a lot more promise as enough cloth, rope and thread can be sourced cheaply. It's also scalable because one can simply use different gauges of rope. But it's far more labor intensive. It also is weak on the seams. So I have to figure something out for that.

That's an interesting notion. A potential problem I see with it is that the pounding would more than likely be uneven. Another is that some components would pre-shaped and it would be hard to pound such pieces. But perhaps some sort of negative and positive wooden die press would resolve both potential issues.

TheHelleri maybe you could use something like a rolling pin

@@shipofbats9134 Another interesting notion. It would apply even pressure. It would be easier than making a press as well. I may have to try that some time.

Strangely enough they never really swung swords like in movies. They mainly used them to puncture by thrusting. The goal was to get your enemy on the ground so you could use your body weight to stab thru any armor with the point. Also armored knights often held their sword with both hands. One hand on the blade and the other on the hilt. That gave them more control to aim for exposed flesh and more force to puncture thru armor. They also often used the sword as a club. They'd hold it with both hands by the blade and swing the hilt at someones head. If they blocked with their weapon they would use the handguard to rip it out of their hand.

It's just flour and water. Not the best stuff. Especially not for mold or water resistance. But serviceable for such experiments. Originally linothorax would have likely been made with an animal glue. Probably not bone glue as that's a hot application, that is a bit too viscous, and cures rather hard. It would have had to been something more akin to a rabbit glue. It also seems likely that some sort of water resistant ingredient was used. If I had to bet on it I would say that additive was Alum. They would have already been using alum in related crafts (such as a fixant in dyes). Alum is also known to have been used to raise water resistance in carpenters glues for thousands of years. That it would also be in a similarly sourced type of glue makes sense (though we have no direct evidence for it).

Thanks for the contribution. Having had a look I personally don't care for the hammer itself as it doesn't have that horizontal split. But thast shouldn't be a deficit for most as pure leather working mallet. For me it's just that I've been trying to downsize on the amount of tools I have. Opting for more versatile (multi-function) tools where possible is a big part of accomplishing that goal. With the old style of refractory hammer the horizontal split allows it to be used as an adjustable wrench in a few configurations (one that can't get into small spaces but offers good grip and a lot of leverage on the big stuff). That makes it good for pipe work. Because you can break or cinch caps, seat or tap loose, turn securing bolts etc. Personally I'm on the look out for an old cheap BASA. That brand as shown in some of the images I linked in the description can be used on rather large bolts and nuts. Now even though I probably won't be getting myself a Vaughan split head hammer. The faces for it appear to be inexpensive relative to Garland faces. Which is where the cost really hurts the wallet on a tool that has "options" lol. So I'll be looking at Vaughan for those when the time comes. With this sort of thing it's really about balancing cost vs. need. I expect for most this would be a good value purchase for leather working. So good on you for pointing it out.

A very good point. Also as I said to another viewer the hard and relatively immovable backing means that the material was forced to take on more than if it were on a body that has some give and protective movement reflexes. All things considered. I ended up putting an inferior form of linothorax (as it is cotton, not very well formed and with crap "glue") through a level of stress test that the real stuff would have never undergone. And it didn't do all that poorly. Which makes me think that the real stuff in it's proper place and time must have been very impressive. Some years now removed from the time of this test, with a lot more off-camera experimentation and reading under my belt. I feel confident that I could at some point revisit this. Although I am no longer all too interested in how it performs against damage. Instead there are some unaddressed things regarding what we can and do know about this armor type. Such as the likely composition of the glues (which I have a few fairly sound ideas about). Or the grade of materials that would have been most common.

As well as iron which during antiquity was also quite soft. Linothorax wouldn’t have been used for as long as it was if it was useless.

This is one of a few videos on this subject which you can find on my channel. In another video I showed how I made this. I also made a later video with another idea for cheap homemade armor. But these were early experiments. I was toying with the idea. Knowing what I do now, I know that such armor can be made much better. I wouldn't use this specific make for substantial armor. In time I plan to review a good book I read on the subject (and address my concerns with that book). After which I will be uploading more experimental videos. This will not be for some time though. As I'm currently away from home on a work trip (until mid may).

You're welcome! Is the one you found among those things a BASA brand?

@@The1Helleri The hammer casting reads "Danco Hammer No. 4 Danielson Conn." This hammer has 2" diam. rawhide faces.

​@@lvdoublej9731 Okay so this Danco is not to be confused with the modern Danco (different companies). The modern Danco is based off first name of it's founder (Dan Reynolds). They don't make or sell anything like this (they seem to be largely plumbing related) and don't appear to have ever done so. In this instance (the instance of the marks on your hammer) Danco is an abbreviation for Danielson Manufacturing Co. based in Danielson, Connecticut USA. A township stock holder ran factory that popped up in 1830 and appears to have been defunct for a very long time (when exactly it went out of use and business I don't know). Likely the hammer just says Danco because they couldn't find a way to neatly fit the full name of the company on it. Your hammer is the next size up from mine (and I believe the largest such hammer that anyone produced). Remarkably the hammer sizes (and which correspondingly sized faces go with them) don't seem to have changed across different makes of this type of hammer. Don't rely on the face diameter for the size. They can swell or mushroom over time and use. Some have a step down in size for the area that fits in as well. What matters for proper sizing of faces is the inside diameter of where the face fits into when in a mostly closed position (about 1/8 inch gap between the two closing pieces). That measurement is the size face you want to order if ever intending to order any. There is a link in the description to where you can buy faces. Although you may want to search ebay first if interested in that in hopes of a better deal.

The cotton isn't bad. But I've since had a lot of crafting experience with linen (as in from flax). Linen is far superior for the purpose. I wouldn't consider this as an armor liner though. This stuff isn't exactly light. A full linothorax would be about half the weight of a bronze cuirass. This would weigh a jacket down. Things would sag and turn at odd angles...This armor type is meant to be strapped against the body. Another thing is that the problem with any series of plates armor is that plates have gaps and a lot of them (10-20% of a series of plates armor like lamellar or a coat of plates can be gaps). Not as much of problem when this stuff would have been used, given the gaps were typically smaller than the thickness of what might want to pass between them. And that thrusting at a gap often creates a pinch and bind effect. But we're far removed from the bronze and iron age. The typical carry blade these days is a lot thinner, harder, and sharper than most common knives of that time would have been. Of course wearing a full thorax/cuirass is wholly impractical. If one felt the need to have some makeshift protection I'd suggest aiming for striking a balance between all the factors (weight, expense, time to make etc.) A thick leather weight lifting belt might be a good start. Leather isn't great at stopping thrusts. But when it's thick enough (such as with lifting belts) it can provide some protection. One can just buy an already made lifting belt. There is no special level of access needed and it would definitely be better than nothing in the context of the situation given. Another thing about a lifting belt thing is that you could layer linen onto it. Two layers of glued and sewed down thick canvas linen on the top side of a lifting belt might be sufficient to get the deflection effect discovered by Aldrete's team at the University of Wisconsin (there's a good experimental archeology study book by them called "Reconstructing Ancient Linen Body Armor: Unraveling the Linothorax Mystery). As well as increase the stopping ability of the belt. As a matter of theory-craft (as in don't depend your life on my advice). A lifting belt would cover the most vital and unprotected organs, without being cumbersome. It would offer some more immediate protection and act as platform to be built out into more substantial armor over time.

@@The1Helleri right, and this is what i usually do. i have a thick leather jacket that i usually wear but it restricts movement and is heavy, but i've gotten used to wearing it. however, as my martial arts style (taekwando) requires a lot of movement, i was thinking of having linen armor plated lining my stomach, as i've found thats where most of these guys try to go for them stabbing me. if not, my ribs do a pretty decent job at protecting me if im at an odd angle. i have a tight-wearing hoodie, (it's more of a muscle-shirt with a hoodie attached) and i was hoping to have these plated lining the inside of it, so that it would kinda serve as the strap, and hold it tight against my abdomen. a full linothorax cuirass was not at all what i was thinking of, just some extra protection without the restricted movement.

@@sergeantsonso3490 Hence the weight lifting belt.

You would be better served investing in some quality running shoes and keeping the laces up tight

@@googlesmostwantedfrog147 yeah okay backseat badass, followed your advice, got expelled for leaving campus.

Great contribution. Recently I've been doing something that requires no heat (I've been trying to make project more portable). I've been using bee's wax. I rub it in direct from a small block of it. It tacks the edge over nicely. Also with body heat over time it invests more into the edge fabric and seams to strengthen it.

No problem. If he is significantly rotund. You may wish to consider some side splits. An inch or two up from both seams, starting at the bottom edge that you leave unstitched. Then come in with a fell stitch along that split (see the other installments of this series for fell stitching and splitting. Albeit the split I do is for the neck so the head can get through easier).

Dear sir please share the anatomy details if Indian swords like a curved one , a tega and a khanda

Intento que sea fácil seguir el ejemplo. Feliz que funcionó para ti.

Great information. Thanks for the comment. Yeah this was more of a theory craft thing. I hope it didn't come off as me saying this is how it should be used. My intention is just to put some ideas out there about things that might work (whether or not they were done historically or are done modernly). Kind of just... observations about what might be possible. Also definitely get what you mean about the tight handle necessitating draw cuts. That disc and tight grip even goes as far as to punish the user a little for not doing it. It's one of the more interesting elements of design I've seen with swords. Because it's so constrained that it sort of trains the user to swing it in a particular manner in order to avoid pain and discomfort. It's a blade that almost teaches you how to use it to some degree (or at least learns you what you definitely shouldn't do) by virtue of it's design.

This was 1oz. cotton painters canvas (often far cheaper than buying bolts meant for clothing). Cotton would not have been a very common fabric for something like this to be made of. Even linen would have been more common. Wool would have been the most common.

I like to think of it more as a test that is weighted against the armor being successful in order to really put it through its paces... To explain, with a hard solid backing the armor has nowhere to go. Without a soft fleshy mass that moves away from the impact slightly when hit, the armor is made to take the near full force of the blow with out any real dispersion of said force. Imagine how much better it would perform if some of that impact were absorbed by a fatty and watery mass (we're mostly water by weight) that shift on or just before impact reflexively away from the blow. But I can definitely agree that the test isn't as informative as one might like as to the real effects of how it would perform as worn armor. Unfortunately these were the constraints of my ability to test at the time. I've thought about this a lot and I think I've come up with a frame that would respond realistically to blows. It's something I'd like to build and try out in the future.

Tree also makes penetration easier.

Yes?

lol!

Thanks so am I!

That's entirely possible. Thinking about it, I was wearing a not so great gambeson that was restrictive. But perhaps weak strikes act to balance things out. Considering that my target had a hard immovable backing. Which would be unlike striking a person. where there would be some reaction to an incoming blow and some give.

I'm a little more concerned with things like accuracy, Breath pacing, measure, form, and edge alignment (where applicable). The way I see it. If the weapon has good qualities it will do most of the work as long as I enable it to do so. But to each their own I suppose.

TheHelleri yea that is true, but in a real fight you have no time to aim with accuracy and you must act quickly and with power to disable your opponent

TheHelleri make some test in bronze plate :o

Something I'd like to be able to do one day. For the moment that's out of my budget and technical ability to take on unfortunately.

Yeah it didn't go as well as it could have. I'm not that great on a sewing machine.

No problem. Mouth is feeling better then it has in years. still got the permanent reline coming up. Part of what took so long was learning to talk again. These things change the way that works. Now I just need to pick a fight and make sure the guy catches my nose from the correct side. Straighten that thing out. I mean holy crap. Look at it. I'm a Picasso.... Meh, maybe it's just the camera angle.

Which is a very good point. Someone else pointed out that they thought the blows were weak. Maybe these two things balance out?

@@The1Helleri There's only one way to find out. We'll draw straws and hit each other! :D

It definitely wasn't the best means or place for testing. But it was what I could manage at the time. As I told another commentator I did choose times where the fewest people were at home or out and about to minimize what would be understandably concerned and nervous looks. Also I agree that the resistance the tree provides isn't realistic. A real opponent would react. Either reflexively to a hard blow making contact or seeing it coming before it does. However if you think about it this is putting the test piece under more stress than it might receive if used in a real combat situation, given that the tree doesn't give. So any damage done to it here might be significantly mitigated if actually used. So as a point of destruction test I'm still rather pleased with the results. Since the time of this test I've learned a lot. Read dozens of research papers. Talked to crafters (and got with a crafting group) who grow, ret, loom, and weave authentic materials from scratch. And read a very informative book based on a 7 year study of this done by the university of Wisconsin (as well as watche dtheir lectures on the subject). I've much better materials and am working on new setups in my new location. The next battery of testing I do will be much improved. But I've some videos to make which need to come before that. So it will be a while still.

Odd in a bad way or odd in a good way?

+TheHelleri Different thats all

th-cam.com/video/f9zlPsO_eOU/w-d-xo.html There ya go ;)

+Spikey Hedgehogy While I've experimented plenty with plates of padded armor. It's really just that. Me using what I already know about garb and applying it forward to messing around and trying to figure out armor. I've never made as much as a full gambeson and I'd largely be speaking from ignorance if I tried to give an instructional on that. That having been said. I've made a lot of plates at this point. I've done a fair amount of looking into it. And I've worn padded armour extensively. So what I can do is help people avoid some stumbling blocks with this and share some thoughts on the matter. I'll see what kind of video I can cobble together. It won't be everything you'd hope for. But it should be helpful. Can probably even include something regarding the grommets.

thanks, that would be awesome. i'm just starting to hand stictch and your t tunic vids are great.

Thanks. The last two weren't as good as the first T-tunic vid (of the good hand stitched one) given I had to do them between moves in order to get them done. Hope the major points about it still got across though.

+Spikey Hedgehogy I have a PDF resource for you. Found this some years back while looking for books to read on the subject. It's basically a short authenti-stitching guide. It discusses the main types of stitching found on medieval European clothing. Even going as far as to give lists of dated finds from different locations and what sort of stitching they had. And it has good self descriptive diagrams on how to do these stitches. Some of these are very rudimentary stitches. But it goes from simple to complex. Overall it's one of the better stitching guides I've seen in general (not just for medieval garb). Teach yourself them. Get a good idea of which stitches belong one which period items and you'll have a pretty solid foundation on which to grow that: www.legioxxirapax.com/zasoby/stitches.pdf

thank you so much. that looks awesome 8D

I later discovered that these are extremely heavy for bucklers of their size. Even if your strong they become tiresome to wield (as you would with a buckler being held far out from you).

TheHelleri Yeah, since I'm 6'5 the bigger buckler suits me pretty good. The 9 inch one wouldn't ever cover my wrist :D

Sure thing.

I more recently found out that this also works well where one has to step over and through a lot of brush. A live oak fell on the trailer I'm inside of in this video. One foot over and it would have crushed me. This machete (Collins & Co legitimus) helped tremendously in clearing a lot of the smaller branches so that the tree could be chain sawed up easier. Good thing we had insurance on it as well. In a new trailer now.

Yep a treadle machine with a big fly wheel. 1920's Singer is the nearest the people at singer could tell me. The serial number is too old to be in their data base. They had to go off visual ID from pics I sent them. I Never did get that "more practice" I had intended to. Moved to a much smaller place and haven't the room for my machine. My mother was nice enough to keep it at her house until I do or until I sell it. I've been long enough without using it that I may as well sell it...maybe get a floor model. I also have a series of 3 videos on this channel showing how to do it by hand. Much more time consuming but much better results. You can do things with hand stitching that you simply cannot accomplish on a sewing machine.

Got one better. When I saw your comment in notifications it displayed the thumbnail for this video...That apron, the lighting, and the counter top. Looks like I am showing people something really morbid and depressing like how to euthanize a pet.

***** Jesus... lul

No, unfortunately it is cotton. That said I am impressed with how well cotton held up. You can see the creation process via a link in the description. I mean to revisit this with more authentic materials in the future.

TheHelleri Ive done the same thing now with a polyester cotton bed sheet and flour glue. Mines holding up incredibly well. I found the glue works better when applied to layers as a thick paste rubbed in thoroughly, rather than as a thin batter.

Something I will keep in mind going forward. Thanks for sharing. And having brought this back to the front of my mind. I actually just ordered some Linen canvas and rabbit glue.

Something else you may be interested in...Apparently (and I only recently learned this) cotton was at least partially used. This is a big surprise to me as I was under the false impression that cotton was a new world plant. There is a lot of stuff I've learned about this recently. Mostly it comes down to a book I've been reading: Reconstructing Ancient Linen Body Armor: Unraveling the Linothorax Mystery. By Gregory S. Aldrete, Scott Bartell, and Alicia Aldrete. The book is written based off a 7 year (and still on going) study and experiments at the University of Wisconsin. They compiled all historical (contemporary to it's use) references and art work. Categorized it and put it into a database. They conferred with historians, experimental archeologists, and re-creationists to get the most complete picture of linothorax to date. Then they sourced work out to grad students and faculty to make the stuff with as accurate materials as they could get. And did a vast array of tests. And they uncovered a lot of valuable information. So I've been pouring through this book, and taking notes (they hit and overcome a lot of stumbling blocks. So it's a great way to learn from others mistakes instead of making them myself). But even with all the work they did on it there is still a lot of questions to be answered. The focus of their work (for sake of being as scientific and quantifiable as possible) was very narrow. It comes down to material composition and resistance to projectile weapons. So I'm building an every growing list of stuff I want to try for further discovery. Ordering new materials and tools almost weekly. And pretty soon I should be ready to begin in earnest with my own (now hopefully much more informed) work.

Your welcome. I can see how it might not follow so clearly if using a machine. Most of my crafting videos are rooted in the idea of hand crafting. That said if you have not already seen them. This is part 1 of a 3 part series. The others can be found here (in order): th-cam.com/video/5HTJwUMMAgI/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Ez0gPBagNOI/w-d-xo.html The second and third part may not help you all that much if using a machine. But they may give you some ideas for embellishment. And don't worry about diverging from what I've shown here. This is just a rough template. When your piece is finished how about linking me to some pictures of it in reply? I'd love to see what you came up with.

+hotsteamypudding That I can recall off hand, I've only seen not round ones in the fight book, by Hans Talhoffer. Yeah they existed in a wide variety of shapes. But if I had to go just by what I have perused so far. I would say round was the most common. And for modern concerns I think round is probably the most practical. Spikes, leafs and hooks can get caught on stuff in practice I would think, make it a little more cumbersome to store,. and the more asymmetrical and contoured a shape is, the more maintenance it is going to take likely. And on the maker end I am sure it's easier to go round then with a more complex shape. Don't get me wrong, their cool. Just I can understand why round is predominant.

I think being able to push a thrust off line with just a wrist rotation by using a square buckler would have been a pretty major advantage personally. The weird thing about these round bucklers (and you're totally right, they were by far the most common) is that they are primarily intended to be used against cut weapons and cut weapons are about line of attack and a round shield isnt that great for guarding against cuts - its about the most inefficient use of material for weight you could have - having something that is just a boss with several bars coming off in different directions would have been much more effective - I mean, look at a parry dagger (which basically replaced bucklers) some images img.kb.dk/ha/manus/th290/kamp0249.jpg img.kb.dk/ha/manus/th290/kamp0249.jpg www.hotspur.org.uk/uploads/5/4/9/6/54966533/9038319_orig.png?380 img.kb.dk/ha/manus/th290/kamp0239.jpg

hotsteamypudding I am not following the reasoning here... If most bucklers are mostly offended by cut oriented weapons. Then why does it need to be optimized in shape for pushing a thrust offline? And how is a strait rim stronger then a curved rim against slash type attacks? That doesn't make sense property of shapes wise. A curve will always absorb and redistribute shock best. And a continuous closed curve (a circle) makes for a shape that is not only strong. But equally strong from all sides.

Thats true about the strength yeah although I doubt the strength of the buckler is really in question Well it would just be nice to have I think? Arming swords and side swords are after-all cut and thrust. You need to push a thrust offline (unless they're thrusting at your buckler for some reason) and a circle just isnt great for that and when the side-sword starts to get longer and more thrust centric you start to see people adopting other shapes of buckler and eventually the maingaunche. I think probably that the parry-daggers that have full hand protection are probably just better for defense that a round buckler but I'd be interested to see if some slight modifications to the round buckler could close that gap.

hotsteamypudding I am still confused as to what you are trying to say. Given that a lot of what your saying now seems to run counter to what you said before. Not trying to pick shit. Just saying that I don't see a reasonable qualification for the initial assertion. Which makes me think that it needs revision or concession.

+Mikey Busch while a few early risers would stop to watch while out walking their dogs or something. This place had a lot of elderly people living there. A lot which would still be asleep when I was filming.

+loyalsausages A mature stance to take. But if you have what you feel are valuable critiques or contentions with something I have put forward. By all means voice them. Most of my videos thus far are just tossing ideas out there and seeing if they hold up (And I've been lucky enough to have one or two of them tested by people with better means). Nothing wrong with a healthy debate. And if the more of what you have to say are compliments or questions. I encourage those as well :p