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Well I got a license plate and that’s all that matters

@@desertspeed2934 you must be somewhere that an inspection is done because I have to have a plate on my 4 wheeler but you can't drive those on a roadway, aside from jumping trail to trail!

Siccass racing

The three wires on the control switch do NOT go to the three spades on the headlight. The black wire goes to the + terminal of the battery (or the red wire on the front brake switch). The white wire goes to the low beam (top) headlight spade. The blue wire goes to the high beam (left) headlight spade. Lastly you need to get a spare wire and a spade terminal female connector and connect the last spade on the headlight to the - terminal on the battery or the chassis for ground.

Unless it's running way lean there's nothing unusual about a stainless header glowing hot when it's dark.

@@desertspeed2934 my header glows read about 15 seconds after I start the bike

You can smell and feel the heat on it instantly

​@@prestonclarke727 same bro not a good feeling

​@@prestonclarke727 you ever figure out what was causing it to go red hot?

Rockymountainatv.com

Yes tusk sells a front brake switch

It's just above the air filter

Yes. The two wire kill switch is connect-to-kill. So the green and black+white key wires connect in parallel to the factory kill switch wires, then you can use the black and red key wires however you want. Most people power a battery headlight or a street legal kit with it. Ideally it replaces the on/off toggle that comes with most street legal kits.

Thanks mate very much appreciated

Just a quick question what color wires was it on the wiring harness that u tapped into with the multi-meter for the key switch was it the red n black wire

U fortunately that is a custom harness I made myself

@@desertspeed2934 that’s kinda the same I’ve done how was your rear light wired in?

@@desertspeed2934 if you get 5 mins look at my vids happy to make another for you mate but I’ve wired the indicators to fuse to flasher unit to switch gear and obviously battery but the switch gear has wires in the plug for head light which the loom I’ve made doesn’t and also the loom doesn’t have anything for the rear light either

Rarely but yes

@@desertspeed2934 thank god lol you don’t understand how lucky I feel talking to you lol, would you at all be able/ willing if you can spare some of your time and knowledge helping me wire in a front and rear light both being 2 element bulbs, and 2x brake light switches, I’ve currently got about 80% through doing a on road rm85 03 but would like to be able to right it at night I have a look that runs indicators and had a switch gear so that’s on and working next I need to wire the lights up so they work and then into the switch gear, I’d also like to add a key somewhere like you did mate

@@desertspeed2934 is this gonna be the best way to communicate welcome to comment on one of my vids have plenty up of the bine

Rockymountainatv.com is where complete kits are found

Trail tech TH-cam channel will show you

Washington was $40 inspection and $94 plate.

@@desertspeed2934 thanks! I may be buying one of these next week lol any recommendations on what to look out for? Supposedly It’s been sitting 10+yrs Thanks by the way!

Ricky Stator - Products www.rickystator.com/product/stators/honda/honda-crf450r-70-watt-dc-system-stator-kit-09-16

Ricky Stator - Products www.rickystator.com/product/stators/honda/honda-crf450r-70-watt-dc-system-stator-09-16

@@desertspeed2934 thanks 👍

Buying a black Fender is the best solution. That or avoid LED lights. Halogens throw a longer beam that your eyes adjust easier to anyway. Pay the $ for a high output stator and quality rectifier. Other ways to wire it too. Keep up and I'll share then of you're Interested.

@@desertspeed2934 I've got some buell headlights on it. Upgraded 250w stator as well. Sorry for all the questions but would an early model crf450r black fender be a direct fit?

@@desertspeed2934 pretty sure the buells are halogens ill look into seeing if they have some led bulbs for them

No hot cams. There are clearance and reliability issues. Been there done that. Take the stock cam, remove the anti-kick and auto decompress and weld the two oil holes under them shut. Then take and drill some oil holes with a 1/8 or 3/16 bit Into the clutch hub assembly. Generally copy the pattern of the existing oil holes all around being careful to stagger them so the hub doesn't break. Buy the right foot peg reinforcement from precision concepts. Oversized tank is a plus. 3.2 to 4 gal. Avoid drilling into structural components like swingarms. Get 20% stiffer springs for your clutch, or 10% with added 1/16" spring shims. Remove the thermostat from the hose housing. Run your valves at 0.005" and 0.006". 68 pilot jet at 5/8 turn should loose the bog. Ditch the recovery bottle and use evans powersport coolant. Other than that make sure your maintenance is kept up and your wheels are centered on plane.

@@desertspeed2934 God bless man. I have the stock cam, the previous owner swapped to the hotcams because the auto decomp system was acting up. Didn't know you could remove it from the stock cam as I don't want it anyway and can start the bike easily using the manual decomp. I thought the stage 1 hotcams used the same valve clearance specs as the stock? Is the material on the hotcams just not up to par?

@@desertspeed2934 Would I have to make any changes to the wiring harness if I removed the thermostat

Standard w/o decomp&anti-kick

Red front brake stitch wire --> black control switch wire. Then blue/white control switch wires tied together --> red headlight wire. Then black headlight wire to ground. If it's the AC headlight you need to tap both wires into the same two (probably yellow) wires that come from the bike and plug into your rectifier to change the battery. Then the headlight will come on when the bike is running. If you want to do that same thing but through the switch you'll need to tap into one of the yellow bike wires --> black control switch wire, then tie the blue/white control switch wires together and --> one headlight wire, other headlight wire --> the remaining yellow bike wire at the uptrend side of the rectifier.

@@desertspeed2934 Thank you!! I really appreciate the reply back man!!!! Makes sense only part I'm wandering you said uptrend side of the rectifier meaning on the other side coming out of the rectifier like the dc side after power goes thru rectifier side wire? Or just other yellow wire going into the rectifier? Thanks again man couldnt figure it out you really know your electrical!! 👍😎

Actually tge camera man's GF, not mine.

@@desertspeed2934 :). I'm just being a d!ck. It just looked like she purposely wanted to loiter in the general direction the camera was pointed. No harm meant.

Doesn't matter

@@desertspeed2934 ok thanks

The taillight yes

Washington

12mm x 1.25

Not present

That's fine

4

TrailTech.com

@@desertspeed2934 can I link to a specific product? Thank you!!!