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There's a Gunson tool (G4094 Clikadjust tappet tool) that works by dividing the thread pitch into sectors with a ratchet and using that to determine the gap. Both that and your method eliminate error caused by feeler gauges not being able to follow the contour of the gap.

Here I am, late to the party. My Toyota Tacoma (I just did rotors and pads) have the same pins and split pin retainer system. I like this system. I just bought (November) a '74 Spitfire and I'm working on cleaning up the 50 years of use. It runs and drives but a lot of tom-foolery has gone on with it. The Haynes manual I got with the car (published 1983) show the shim and lists it as an "Anti-squeal shim" In my 66 years, I've done a few brake jobs, I've always used the anti-squeal shims but never dry. I always use a quality brake grease or copper never seize on them. As you say, you don't use them, you don't find they do much. Fair play to you. I appreciate your taking time to explain, demonstrate and instruct. I need the help. If I knew everything, I'd be rich. Thank you, sir.

Thank you, I'm new to my Triumph and every bit of wisdom is so precious.

Very interesting technique. Thanks John. 👍👍🇨🇦

Love that you’re doing this with your daughter!…good on you both! I’m in Mississauga and about to embark on a full resto of a ‘72 that got stalled about 10 years ago. With your help, Chef’s and Elin’s I’m in good hands. Happy New Year !

Trusty Side Kick earning her college education. Brilliant!

Dry helpful. Thank you

Great video John, very helpful.

Once you got the one side up, you could thread a thin piece of twine through, under the frame and pull and saw back and forth to break the silicon sealing it.

The long back crank was only fitted up until the end of 1969 I believe. At CC50001 they started with the short back crank. That would be in 1970. I could be wrong though 😉

One more question - I noticed you tied the back part of the cover over the wire loop that locates the seat bottom into the base frame. Is this going to be a problem getting the seat into the frame?

Great tutorial John !

Great video. I'm in the process of doing 1500 Spitfire seats and was wondering what spray glue you are using.

also want to say thanks for the videos - very well done and informative

You have amazing patience and persistence!

Awesome !

That's a special engine bay moosh

These are great videos - very informative, I just wish that the entire process could be seen rather than much of it off camera.

Excellet video John, great to see somebody at work that knows what they are doing. Learning lots here.

It sure pays to have good help. Well done.

Exciting, thanks John for working on my car...looking forward to watching this

Yeah, he needs different lug nuts…probably spline drive lug nuts would work well there.

Maybe an Advanced Auto Wire (AAW) Harness.

Thank you for taking the time for this. There will be more guys following your advice than you expect.

Thank you for the time taken to present this video. It's good. You're to the point. AND, there's no BS music blasting to interfere with the lesson. Thanks, Don

Hi John Once again I ask for your opinion. By mistake I boutgh a Lumination Magnatronic ignition for a 25D6 distributeur. May I use it on my 1969 TR6 with a 22D6 distributeur or it´s best to trade it for a more specific one? Thank youvery much and best regards José Nóbrega Portugal

Super helpful! Many thanks

Where did you get the wiring diagram? I have found several different versions for my 1975 none of which are completely accurate

Extremely helpful. Thanks.

Great video John as you really highlight all of the variabilities and solutions for each application along with the inevitable potential pitfalls. I think LED is the way to go for all of the reasons you highlighted not least of which is the brighter and cleaner looking lighting.

So, I'm an American, watching you remove (part 1) and reinstall the ring, I wonder why you don't close the bonnet and work from the front rather than below? Is there something I am missing? Great job though, I really needed the help with the Headlight surround fasteners.

Waht rolled along the floor from the dic @ 7.24?

"skirts up" (giggles)

Very useful as always.

Another great video helping out ppl who havent done this before or in a long while at least. Thanks for your excellent patience and insight.

Very informative, thanks very much. Got myself a stud removal tool, will see how we go this time! Cheers Pete, New Zealand

Fine for steel. Coarse for aluminum, as it has a larger grain size.

A TR6 is a British car and that has a bonnet and not a hood. The hood keeps the rain off the cockpit.

Why didnt you tell people how to stop the leaks from the 3 fixing stud holes- which is commonly caused by people overtightening the nuts and mishapenning the valve cover body- the leaks can be fixed by making sure the 3 holes are flat and a felt seal is fitted as per parts diagrams - underneath a metal wasger- I stick my felt seals on with permatex and have zero leaks - I also used permatex for the cork valve cover seal. The alloy rocker cover is a flawed design- no baffle futted over the crankcase breather outlet- brilliant way to allow loads more crankcase fumes/oil etc into the carbs or Lucas inlet plenum- you should fit baffle plates fir customers!

Hi I would like to install hood struts on my tr6 as well can you send me illustrations I'll appreciate it thank you.

Love that its your wife helping you!

Slimme oplossing

Really nice job. I can see the attention to detail. Love the color. I've got a 69 and wish I could get a good balance on my WW. Really like the car.

Buy yourself a good drift pin / crows foot to line up the holes !

Dear Sir, very much enjoy your youtube videos, they are excellent. I am having the same issue as this video about what cylinder bore diameter to take as the 'datum' when determining whether to bore out to the next size up. What did you conclude in the end, are you taking your max acceptable cylinder bore size when measured as '2.9405inches + 0.1mm' or are you now happy to use the upper end, so '2.9416inches + 0.1mm'? I also dropped you a note via your website, I think you're the only gentleman I've see that's discussed the issue. Everyone in the history of TR6 engines seems to have used 2.9405inches + 0.1mm :). But I figure if Triumph were happy to send out a factory fresh motor where the bore size was already 2.9416inches on the day it was sold, that it would mean there's safely another 0.1mm of wear on top of this figure before a re-bore is required...? I suppose the answer comes down to what acceptable piston to wall gap there is using a 'standard' size piston. Appreciate your kind feedback on your current view! Cheers, Toby

Job well done.

Nice! I’d like to see the rockers blacked out and the chrome strip below the doors but that’s nit picking. Bet it will look awesome with the Hard Top on. Have fun Doug!

Thanks for the info. Doing this job today.

Sadly to remove the check strap ,the door skin must be removed

Hi, what is the model number of the LED headlight?