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Yes, they have been great to use in the open graded base stone. As long as you backfill the edging and do a slight tamp of the stones after the stakes get driven in, they work well for preventing lateral migration.

I believe this one was around 18" deep in most areas

This was a multi-faceted approach to dealing with the severe drainage issue that they had going on with this yard. Our joint material was permeable, and therefore is designed to drain the water through it. Since the pavers were a standard joint size and may limit the amount of water that can pass through it, we also made sure that any surface water remaining from large, fast downpours could find its way along the joints and surface grade to the french drain, and then out and around the house.

Thanks for watching! Yes, we used solid pipe coming out of the gutters to get the maximum distance away from the house and into the drain trench which had the slotted S&W pipe. Once we went back into the soil to trench around the house, it transitioned back to solid pipe. In our experience over the years and dealing with jetting companies, they always recommend doing a S&W pipe, or a schedule 40 where possible because their jets can really tear up the inside of drain pipes (especially the corrugated material that is typically used by contractors). It is more expensive to go the PVC route, and can also lead to bids being lost on installation projects. However, we have committed to installing projects properly, with the appropriate materials, and that trumps the risk of losing bids every time knowing that we do not have to go back and fix anything, and the customer has the peace of mind that all is well.

I was wondering about that myself... expensive stuff, but if it lasts a lot longer and none of this artillery fungus then it is well worth it !

I am not familiar with it in rubber mulch. It is not a very widely used mulch where we are located, and the areas that we have serviced.

This color was Stone Grey. I would suggest whoever you order the sand from, to first have them send you a couple of sample "pucks" that you can hold against your pavers and decide from there. Best of luck!

We always remove it from the site and compost it

Most likely Resin sand would hold up better. There are a number of variables that you would have to consider before using it, but since the resin sand cures with oxygen it would remain hard and would be less likely to erode. Poly sand is designed to get flexible when wet so in our experience if you have a consistently wet time period and it rains, it can erode. Of course slope and amount of and intensity of rain, etc., also play a role in the erosion process.

Yes, it is! It is great for getting the stubborn sand out of the tighter cracks in pavement, or any remaining weed/moss growth like this wall had.

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 where can I get that? What is it called?

Oxidation removal would be something of a different beast than a standard soft washing. We do offer that, but the process is different depending on a variety of factors. Same with soft washing - A variety of factors go into dwell time, surfactant used, percentage of SH used, etc. I never recommend pressure on a vinyl house wash, ESPECIALLY in the presence of oxidation, and each site is different.

On this wall we used a turbo nozzle rated for our rig pump

We like to use the suite of F9 products. They have an F9 Efflo that works great.

Unfortunately, yes. There have been some people who have been successful when scrubbing it off but if it is on vinyl or painted siding and there is oxidation present, it will remove the oxidation and then cause "bright" spots on your siding wherever it was scrubbed...

It really depends on the polymeric sand and the way it was put in. If the contractor put in the poly sand and used too much water at time of install, a lot of the polymers may have been washed out which weakens the sand and therefore lessens the need for hot water usage. We have needed hot water on a lot of our past jobs where clients have wanted to upgrade to a new polymeric sand or a resin sand and it can be a bugger to get out of there when installed properly.

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 thanks for the reply. I need a good solution to remove this junk without using stripper. I have a 10gpm hot water unit, I'll fire up the burner and try it out next time.

No problem, we have also noticed that watering the joints down for a short period before hot water washing can really help too as it gets it to a pliable state. Good luck with your next project! 180 degrees is recommended to removal by some of the manufacturers. Sometimes that is not even enough but be careful going higher...

If it is sealed on top of that, then that is a different story and MAY need stripping first, then sand removal.

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 thank you for the advice.

Bleach can help but we found is not always necessary. Surface cleaners, depending on the stubborn nature of the growth and sand, should be sufficient at 1200 PSI or less. Depending on the quality and density of paver, you can adjust your settings accordingly. The older and less dense the paver, the less pressure you should use (most likely). Good Luck!

We did a light SH application as a pretreat on this one.

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 ty!

On these we used a Sodium Hypochlorite since the growth was so bad. Neutralization was done with a product called Agent Halt. Water can be used to dilute, but since we had a storm drain a ways down the driveway we wanted to make sure that the product was neutralized before anything potentially made it to any drains.

We like EasyJoint. We have been using it for a while now but there are other manufacturers coming out with comparable products like Techniseal's NOCOSTORM or Alliance has their Gator Nitro sands. Be cautious as to the paver product it is being applied to and the application (vehicular or pedestrian). Check with the manufacturer as these products differ in various ways. Hope this helps!

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 appreciate it, will check manufacturer recommendations.

Yes, you can remove it via media blasting but it can get messy. It also can change the appearance of the block as well if you are not careful. That said, chemicals can do that too.

Sodium Hyperchlorite diluted to 1.5% on this one with some surfactant seemed to do the job!

Usually if there is any shading from weep hole drip it is due to contaminants behind the siding over time that is coming out with the water and possibly detergent. Typically you can reactivate with a light detergent (if it had dried) and rinse and it will go away.

Thanks for the input. We'll have to do that on an upcoming wash!

Time-lapse of the sand installation is a great idea! We have plans for publishing quite a few more installation time-lapse projects we have already installed.

With the EasyJoint you should not get any hazing. Poly sands can haze from time to time if not installed properly, but that said, they are producing poly sands that haze less and less. It really depends on the type of sand you are using.

On this one we had to in order to reactivate the polymers within the old leftover sand. Some restorations hot water is not needed but we opt to use it to kill off biological growth when detergents are not advisable.

Thanks! I am sorry to hear about your patio. Unfortunately, that happens more than you would think. Installers should run a poly pad on all textured pavers to protect from scuffing. It is bad enough when the surface is clean, but can get even worse if there are any small stones that get between the compactor and paver surface too.

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 yeah I’ve never even laid pavers and somehow knew that! If I saw them doing it I would have ran out and stopped them. And they refuse to remedy the issue so now I have to look at these gouges and hope they fade away for the next few months if not longer.

Agreed, we are not fans of the solid deck coatings. We prefer the penetrating oil based sealers. To each their own...

Sorry to hear about your tile issue. If this is not a hard water stain, perhaps it is simply soap scum that is being stubborn and has penetrated your tile. Whatever it is, if you can get it cleaned with over the counter products, we would recommend sealing your tile with a hydrophobic sealer like TRS (Thermo-Reactive-Sealer). It works great on all kinds of surfaces and will make cleaning easier down the road. If cleaners do not work due to the porosity, we would recommend seeking out someone who offers steam cleaning on tile. That may draw whatever it is out of the pores better than a spray on cleaner. Good luck, hope this helps!

Hi There! Sorry to hear that you are having this issue. It sounds like with the information you provided that you may be looking at tannin staining. Depending on how porous the concrete is and how long the staining has been occurring, you may want to consider the following approach - 1. Strip the sealer (unfortunately, once the sealer is applied, it traps all that is under it still) 2. Clean with an oxalic acid. This will help neutralize tannin stains. 3. Wait for a while to verify that no more bleeding occurs. 4. Reapply your sealer when the conditions are right according to the sealer manufacturer's recommendations. Tannin bleeding happens when the stain travels through a material with the flow of water. Even when sealed, concrete can have water flowing through it from beneath the sealer. So, you could have cleaned, then sealed, then if there was still moisture flow it could have brought some more tannins to the surface. Especially if it is a sealer that allows moisture to escape from it. Also keep in mind that oxalic acid is used as a brightener. We have used it with success on wood and concrete before but it may lighten the area so you may want to apply it on the entire surface, for uniformity sake, prior to reapplying sealer. Of course this is a 30,000 foot view take of ours and there are many variables I am sure we cannot know about or help you with. It is a tough situation you are dealing with (been there, done that!). We wish you success on remedying this issue. Hope any of this information helps!

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 Yess thank you much appreciated🙏 So was my wash not good enough then? Is it my fault in some way ? What should ive done better? should i recommand to the client next time to wait a couple raindays before putting the sealer ?? Cause that slab legit dosent have 1 year..its brand new and theres 1000 threes around so with the winter here in canada when everything melted the guy realised all the black stain from the threes on is concrete Thats why i came cause he tried with his pressure washer and it wasnt coming off so i knew a soft wash with SH will do the job.. and it did like i said everything was perfect when i leaved the client was so happy....but the he put sealer and now the stain is "back"

It probably would have been best to caution your client against sealing it for a while to make sure the stain wouldn't reappear (even though you didn't know he was going to seal it). This may have required another quick wash prior to sealing, but at least you could rule out that the stain wasn't going to quickly return. Unfortunately, hindsight is 20/20.

We haven't used it on a black "brick" before. Is it concrete? Most of the black stone we use is a sandstone so we really have to be careful with what is use on it. There are cleaners specifically made for sandstone. Not sure about your application there...

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 its cause buy the oxydation of a white aluminium window theres white drip on the black brick and yesh was wondering what kind of stuf to put there without damaging the brick Thanks 🙏

That sounds like oxidation from the painted metal. Look into using a product for oxidation removal that is safe for your kind of substrate. Check out One Restore from Eaco Chem...

@@elegantestatesofthefingerl2087 thank you much appreciated

Unfortunately, I do not recall the stripper we used on this particular deck. I just know that it was a terrible product to get off of there. Ultimately we used a stripper that had quite a dwell time, then used heated water and pressure to peel off the coating. Not ideal, but since the customer was staining again, we advised that sanding was ultimately likely to be needed prior to re-coating due to the strength of stripper required. There wasn't a ton of furring of the wood (surprisingly). I'm sure there is a better approach, but nothing that we had found at the time.