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The zeros may be a reference to adjustment from the manufacturers nominal pinion depth. There are articles and charts to use for pinion shimming adjustment based off of the old and new gear sets, but the most basic principal is that a zero marked gear, should use the same pinion shim when replacing a zero marked gear. There can also be markings for recommended backlash and batch numbers used when manufacturing and packaging gearsets (to make sure same batch ring gears and pinion gears are matched up and boxed together.

Real good, let us know how it works out!

@@rearwheelperformance got the pinion depth set, pattern is centered up/down but only a small contact patch on toe drive side and heel coast side.

@@halleffect1 Sorry missed this. You can adjust backlash within spec to try to move it. Sounds like you were at min backlash spec and likely shimming for a bit more backlash may have helped. Tell us how it all ended up!

@@rearwheelperformance thanks for that. backlash is at 0.010. I thinned out the paint with gear oil and got a better pattern, contact along most of the gear, not just the toe/heel. so it was right all along but i couldn't see it. confirmed it was fixed with test drive and no more howling.

@@halleffect1 Glad to hear!

If you are working on rear lift components it is usually not necessary, but it can't do any harm to have it checked. For front components any modifications or changes, it is recommended to have an alignment.

Nice, thanks! We only had the choice of polarizing monotonous random sounds and dead silence, welcome to the TH-cam.

Thank you! Cheers!

Leveling kits and spacer kits biggest drawback is the reduction of suspension dropout travel. The control arms are set to a different ride height angles than they were engineered for, which can also effect ride and handling, even on the street. Depending on the make and model, upper and/or lower ball joint wear and failure can also be increased. A couple of inches usually is ok, but many 3"+ spacers can be brutal in the short and long run.

@@rearwheelperformance Thank you for you reply. I am thinking around 1.5" to 2" max spacers. not going to do anything more than 2".

Wow, very good. We had planned on doing a ground level build axle assembly using as much common basic hand tools as possible, but circumstance has never given us the time to do something like that properly. Glad it helped, enjoy!

If the spacer is causing the issues, then yes, removing the lift spacers, repairing or replacing the control arms and installing a spindle lift should help.

@@rearwheelperformance but i can leave the strut spacer in and use one of yalls spindle and itll correct the angle on the ball joint in the uca?!

@@512juancho Sorry no, the suspension travel and geometry are the same at the connection to the control arms. Problems using a strut spacer lift with stock spindles will be the same or a bit worse on lifted spindles.

@@rearwheelperformance so my best option is either a upgraded aftermarket UCA or remove the strut spacer and use a lift spindle right?

@@512juancho Yes, both will likely solve your mechanical issues, but the spindle solution will also restore the ride and handling back to near stock feeling.

Thank you very much!

good

Torque the pinion nut in increasingly smaller steps, checking frequently, when the bearing preload (rotational drag) is getting close to specifications. Stop adding additional pinion nut torque once the bearing preload (drag) is anywhere within the specification range.

First of all your not measuring torque ,your are measuring preload ,On a 12 bolt GM you need some where between 400 and 600 ftlbs to start crushing the collar , you have to 'creep' up to the desired preload ,which is measured in Inch-Lbs usually 10 to 15 in-lbs of preload . Ive built over 500 12 bolts and the only impact that seems powerful enough to crush the 12 bolt is the M-18 Milwaukee , the M-18 is the best battery powered impact to use ,don't waste you money on other name brands that I won't mention ,8.5 GM and 9 in and 8.8 Ford crush fairly easy ,12 bolt and corvette 65-79 are tough to crush , have recently run into some aftermarket crush collars that refuse to crush , stick with OEM or Rateck

Good for retaining ride quality and usually the easiest option to install, but generally not the best option for handling in our opinion.

@@rearwheelperformance ok. Are spindles easy to install if I have a lift and tools and some car experience

@@Graham_A That's the perfect background for spindle work. Every suspension tech has their favorite mini-sledgehammer to break free the ball joint and tie rod tapers. Other than the hammer and technique doing that, the rest is just bolt on.

Yeah? Well, you know, that's just like uh, your opinion, man. 🎳 Thanks!

Assuming it is an 8.8, 9.765 or Super 8.8 rear, it is about the same installation procedures as most other common c-clip style axle assemblies from the last 50 or so years. Tools and experience are relative to the installers perception of level of difficulty.

There is usually enough dropout travel to use the existing rear shocks, but adding a slightly longer shock rated for 1-2" of rear lift can be added if necessary.

One can reference a hundred different bit of advise and pattern guides, but more importantly, persistence and patience provides the best results (as you did). Good to hear, and enjoy!

Glad you like them!

Can you elaborate on this? What is your experience with this issue?

Thanks man; we're glad you found the video useful. Our team hopes to have the time to make more videos soon.

We can't understand the question, but feel free to call us and we can get a better idea of how to assist.

Trucks and suvs from about the late 80s+ have had their rear spring rates and shock dampening increasingly reduced for the sake of passenger ride comfort. Raising the rear spring rate along with well matched shocks are a game changer in handling/performance.

Very well said!

Real cool, thanks!

Nice, not sure it is quite all that, but it's nice hearing from people if it helps, thanks!

You probably can, but it would not be at our recommendation.

Well gosh, thanks! We wish we had more time in the real world to make more. Hopefully soon!

Very likely the suspension dropout travel has been reduced and is stopping at the upper control arm/ball joint area (and check that the ball joints are not loose with the suspension unloaded. In our opinion, lift spindles are almost always a better choice for ride and being quiet if it is in the budget.

Very good! Maybe it's time to take that next step...

Thank you for your input. Hope all goes well!

Thanks!

Thank you for the kind words of support!

Straightening the curves, flattening the hills. Someday the mountain might get 'em, but the law never will.

Set it up initially as closely as possible using the previous/original pinion shim or a setup depth checking tool, then check the contact pattern to determine if it requires additional adjustment to make it good.

Thanks for the reply. I’ll be doing my first gear swap as soon as I get the parts I ordered. Great video btw. I’ll be checking it out a couple more times probably.

Real good, have fun. Call us if you need help on anything. 877-910-2244 @@dumpsterguy85

JC Whitney, back in the day :) But, if you are serious, you'll likely need to fabricate it or piece something together from other application kits.

We keep saying we're going to try to mock-up a race installer kit with pucks and a center screw for years, but as long as we can swing hammers without breaking bones, I guess we're stuck, lol. Since someone has mentioned it now, I think it's time to try it!

We like this guy! Seriously though, we always feel like we're tripping over our words. Too many can be confusing, and too few can be too obscure. Have fun, and we hope to be retired home builders like you someday!

Patterns should have a feathered edge all around the edges. A visibly hard edge line is where the pinion teeth will have the most pressure. If it were us, we'd probably back it off a couple of thousandths and recheck one last time.

@@rearwheelperformance So I've got my pinion depth right where I want it. But even opening the backlash to 9 "Yukon recommends 6-10" I cant completely get rid of that sharp line. Tt 9 the sides are nice and feathered but right in the center portion its still a sharp line. Not sure if I cant hit 10 right on the nose. I'm wondering if its just because its all new parts and they need to brake in?

@@baja5000 We need to see what the pattern looks like. If you got time, call the tech line next week, especially if you aren't completely satisfied with what it looks like - 877-910-2244

Rough life!

Thanks, and glad to hear!

We don't use them in most cases, since it creates more leverage at the frame, and can allow for more side-to-side movement. It also takes about twice the added shackle length to get the amount of overall lift wanted. That is just our opinion, and most installations are fine with shackles also.

For many applications, yes. But, more lift can mean that there may be more modifications required to allow for brake line and sensor wire lengths and routing.

So extended brake lines should be fine?

@@nickdismute6214 Extend the brake lines and any other wires that it may have depending on the application. Turn the knuckles full left/right at dropout to make sure everything is routed freely and not overextending or rubbing on anything.

Thanks. Even so, we go back and watch these and think about things we want to add. Hope we can get back to making these soon!

Glad to hear, and thanks a lot!