วีดีโอ

better stay outlaw friends :) Money destroys the vibe

BRO!!! That first dyno was INSANE!🤯

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Sind sehr sehr stolz auf euch.Bravo für die se Leistung!🎉

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Danke 🙏

🙏🙏🙏

Auf weitere fantastische Jahre ! ❤🎉

I used to watch competition bouldering religiously. Recently I have lost interest completely. Big crazy dynos are fun to watch a couple times but quickly feel gimmicky, stale and completely alien to the sport I love and practice.

Can’t wait to see you back on DNA !!!

Go off Jakob, my climbing king

Good to see that elite pros really starve and crave for more outdoor like problems. Hope setters throw in more proper steep cracks with all those book openers, paddles, tea cups, ring locks, stacks and other cool stuff with their endless variety and possibilities. Can't be even more old-school new school.

Personally I enjoy the unpredictability of boulder finalist rosters, otherwise I grow bored seeing the same names over and over. I like watching different climbers with different styles. I enjoy lead as well, but the differences between the two is what makes them both worthwhile to watch.

We have here in Cork old school boulder wall with features, not just flat panels, is pretty cool to climb loads of footwork.

We have here in Cork old school boulder wall with features, not just flat panels, is pretty cool to climb loads of footwork.

Can't wait to see you in DNA :-)

I feel the IFSC Championship should be more important. At the moment, each world cup seems quite isolated, and athletes' success is measured in WC medals usually. I would LOVE to see a season-long fight fpr the title across multiple world cups. They could very easily do this by giving some bigger prize money to the winner and display standings before/after each event. Following IFSC would be so much more exciting! On a different but related note: re do the whole website and app to get access to all the info. It's difficult to find the times of the comps and standings etc

The greatest climber ever in competitions spoke a setters should listen.

🗽 Greetings from Austria to Jakob Schubert. One of the greatest climbers of our time. 🙏 .

Great words, is totally right, hope federations take note

14:10 Lets get it! All forms of climbing? That includes aid climbing! Competition aid climbing when? :) Also what would that even look like?

I'd love to see some "old school" steep, hard boulders in WCs.

His actions are gonna change the sport i believe in him !

I totally understand why the massive lache into paddle dyno exists. It’s fun for the audience. I assume it’s WAY harder for non climbers to see the fun and struggle with shit low friction crimps on steep overhang… I do miss it sincerely though

Incredible guy!

Yes! Finally someone trying DNA!!

I never thought about the size of the holds having such a profound impact. I guess companies have a financial interest in selling bigger and more complex holds. At the same time that is maybe not what the sport should be focussing on, or at least not exclusively. In my view, many great boulders can be set with low budget, relatively small holds. On the other hand, I like volumes giving the wall a different shape and making everything a bit more 3D. For me, a good boulder is about the moves, not the wall itself. And that is very abstract, requiring experienced and creative routesetters.

Do people not think that the variability in bouldering is more the fact that the field is just extremely close, and thus the final is inherently much more open. Who wants to see the exact same group in finals every time, that gets boring.

Jacob is right in many things - especially of IFSC practics quality but competition climbing wont be anymore same like rock climbing and its not a problem for really strong climbers of new era :D

Agree. I stopped watching comps 3 years ago. That’s is not climbing anymore. Are so boring.

Yeah bring back the physical hard stuf to at least a proper ratio. It should be more around 50% of the boulder than 25% I think.

Try climbing. It might surprise you what can be achieved without money& hype.

New boulder comp rule: 2 board style problems!!!!

Nice that Jakob is mentioning the elephant in the room in climbing

Remove the "Electric" boulder and replace it with a "Classic" theme. Prioritize sequence complexity and high body position risk.

He's so right about the competition's route setting.

Climbing gradually became circus tricks. This started off as a way to try and split the field and avoid ties. It then took on a life of its own. It makes for more injuries and certainly more luck.

Fully agree on the world cups becoming more random in their results except Janja because she's a few levels ahead of the rest. I am under the impression that routesetting for competitions has become less about testing the participant's skills in different ways and more about cooking up the craziest dynamic coordination jumps. Hugely impressive when they go, but less suited to determining the best climber and comps are saturated with them making it boring to watch.

IMO Colin Duffy's top of Boulder 4 was a highlight of the Paris Olympics and it lead to a dramatic showdown in the lead for the bronze medal. As a spectator, and a fan of competitive bouldering, I think some of those kinds of problems make the sport more interesting and dramatic to watch. Plenty of old school boulders to be done outside, if that's what you're looking for.

I don't like this new style of climbing when climbing myself. But I don't hate them in competition. But I think that we really need more variety in the competition. Jakob explained imo really good why we need more variety in the competitions

Also second note, why is there no crack climbing in comps? Isn’t that a massive discipline that isn’t really represented? Doesn’t that require massive intricacies to get right? I think we could see a different group of leaders in climbing.

Great honesty here! Sounds like the hold shapers could be double dipping as route setters with making money as a key driving point. Not sure but if it’s true, when money wolves come in, the spirit of any endeavor gets lost in what it could be, on the alter of how much can we make.

I think top climbers need to be advocates for their sport in this way. There’s way to much hesitancy to say anything negative - we need the open dialogue that isn’t blindly positive all the time. If you had that, top athletes would hold much more influence over the sport.

The business model of the hold manufacturers dictates the direction climbing takes. Big holds = increased financial gains, which leads to the specific style of coordination moves and dynos. Simple as that. Money drives everything these days...

Boulder problems that reflect actual bouldering 😁😳🧗

Nope; one discipline…just do better

Well said! Sadly, I don't think the ifsc is listening to climbers as much as they should, they are trying to make a spectacle because they think they will attract more eyes with flashy boulders, "betraying" their regular viewers! It will turn into a vicious circle of organizers trying to outdo the previous competition! It's all about the money, and not even money athletes will get! As he said, certain countries are regularly getting to organize cups, but it's almost always half empty stands and lausy organization! "It's to promote the sport,...but then we end up in SA or some other shady country

The comps look like Ninja Warrior and not bouldering/climbing.

Sohta Amagasa catching strays 🤣

What should improve substantially are the prize money amounts in the World Cups, as they are among the lowest of any professional sport that exists