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@@shesqueeled fuel shutoff is set at 6500.

@@andruwmartinez4129 yeah she’s loud. There’s only one other car in town that is as loud and it’s a 2017 mustang 5.0 I did a full long tube back stainless works exhaust on his and decibel wise it’s the same but his is more raspy mine is more throaty. I piss people off all over town and I love every minute. Definitely wouldn’t recommend this setup in a state like California, it would be a ticket magnet. For something more moderate I’d recommend a cat back with a muffler that sits in the stock location behind the axle to keep the decibels tolerable.

Theres a cheap LM1 on marketplace that price wise makes sense but i do daily the car 30 miles a day and the thought of dailying this setup seems terrible. Not about that life lol​@@curtrobinsongarage5452

@@JohnnyAnderson1 good point. I should do a follow up of exterior sounds with full throttle rips. Then you can determine how bad it will piss off the neighborhood.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 exactly lol

32819 for LS1/2 if your running a 5.3/6.0 truck engine you may need the longer 32829 depending on which coils you have. The truck motors have 2 different coil options.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 thanks for the info, I’m running truck 5.3 lm7

The tank can be ordered with a vertical that would require a cut in the bed floor with a flush cap. Or with the side outlet like the one in my video you have a few options. Some guys just run a filler up the inside of the side of the bed. But most do a custom install and either hinge the L/R marker light with a modern filler door hinge and put the cap and neck inside the bedside. Or they do what I’m doing and put a custom flush cap recessed behind the L/R taillight assembly and use an LED light assembly on a hinge reminiscent of 56 Chevy bel air.

@@Harrybowles1969 on classics I’ve always preferred engine and chassis upgrades but keeping the exterior and interior looking relatively original. Some body mods look good but for the most part you can’t beat the original design.

Thank you, yes you can absolutely install this tank without removing your bed.

I understand that. Personally I like car shows but don’t like taking my own vehicles. I always feel weird. I build my vehicles for myself to enjoy not to show off to others. Also in my area car shows are political and unless you’re a friend of the group putting on the show you most likely won’t get a trophy anyway. I’m with you I don’t need a trophy my car is trophy enough.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Thanks for your comment. HAPPY Motoring.

People keep telling me that and I’ve done it both ways. With the lube I use measurement is the same. But if you’re getting picky you should never ball home cylinders either. Nor should you really put pistons back in without snap gauging the cylinders and check for out of round. If this was a new machined block with a completely new rotating assembly I would do things a little different but thanks.

@@grumpy1962R so after contemplating your question. I’ll try to answer it the best i can. I have seen some trucks where the bed or the cab seems narrower. Usually if you center everything it ends up looking pretty decent, sometimes it’s hard to judge with all the curves on older trucks. The best thing to do in your case is asssuming your frame is perfectly straight then find the center of your frame and mark the center of the cab and bed from underneath and center them on the frame. Normally there is enough adjustment to accomplish this. You didn’t say if you have a step side or fleet side bed. If it is a step side then I believe they are a little narrower by design. If it is a fleet side then it should be much closer in width to the cab. If you have a fleet side and centering everything looks all wrong then I’m at a loss why there is that much discrepancy between the two.

Welcome to the car scene! Remember for informal events you can always do a cruise night or a cars and coffee once a month as well for smaller groups.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Thank you, I have hosted like 20+ cruise in with my group and I want to try and possibly do a car show later this year or maybe next year. Do you think it would be a good idea to possibly get a hold of other local groups to do a combined show or no?

@@PhyscoTurkeyPhotography I personally think that would be a good idea. At the very least so you aren’t planning events at the same time. If they want to work with you for a large event that is even better. I live in the desert so the best time here is spring and fall and it seems like every year someone in the closest cities is putting on events the same time as our local one and I’m sure it’s because there is no communication between organizers, or maybe competition. Hard to say.

Honestly, for things like that, I just go with what feels good within the torque range of the size fastener I’m using. The only time I break out my torque wrench is for critical stuff such as engine rebuilds. After 25 years of doing this it’s how I do it, right or wrong.

There was something about the factory hoses I didn’t like but I don’t remember what it was. I prefer to upgrade stock rubber hoses to multi layer aftermarket ones anyway. Many companies will build you hoses with whatever length and hose ends you desire.

Thanks, but I already did the cut for a standard Din deck before paint. Still keeping the AC vent and ash tray so it’s close to original looking. Planning on running 6” speakers up front and 2 more 6 inch speakers in pods that mount in the rear cab corner pockets. Then making a box the same dimensions as the fuel tank and mounting it behind the seat with the amps as well as 2- 8” subs. I ran a similar setup in my 70 back in high school in the late 90s and it sounded pretty decent.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 cool. I would suggest one of the modern low profile subs in a 12 or 13 inch. The slim subs have become quite good. I helped a guy with a C10 and determined that Stereo integrity BM12mkii subs facing the rear wall with the sub path opening directed to the passenger side.

Thank you

Hi Dean, the hinge and filler isn’t really my hang up. It’s easily routing the filler neck and hose to be easy to assemble and service in the future. Might have to just stare at it a while till something pops into my head. The sheet metal is from AMD but I can’t remember their source for all of it. There are a few suppliers they use. Thanks as always.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Curt, I completely understand future service as I like easy too. Think of curved, bent, mandrill bent pipe can place a short hose W/Clamp at easy access. Don't forget vent hose placed up into bedside with roll over valve that closes with liquid during refueling. This done right makes it easy out and no gas smell in the garage. I had the LS PCM reprogrammed to shut off EVAP testing but keep purge. Yes, I have a truck activated carbon canister in the back under the bed. This too allows for smooth fueling. Thinking out loud! It's yours, I am just butting in. Have a lucky one! DK

All sheet metal was purchased through Auto Metal Direct, can’t remember what Chinese brand the fenders were. I would say there were moderate issues with most panels but nothing too extreme. Some panels actually fit well while others needed substantial work. The only pieces that fell right in were the outer rocker panels.

Hello! Thanks for the encouragement! I just need to stay motivated and keep plugging away. Thanks for sticking with me.

I got most of my stuff from AMD and they resale mostly triplus. Both of my bedsides were boxed the same but clearly were made to different standards. One side was as good as OEM and the other side was not very good. It seems pretty hit and miss for me since about 2021. Honestly I’d just say pick one and deal with the fallout when you get your parts and do the corrections needed. There is of course the problem with shippers recently as well. I used to never get a damaged panel. Now half of the panels I get have some shipping damage.

Yes you can. It gets rock hard so you would normally paint over top of it. It’s actually kind of hard to sand compared to say body filler.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 thank you

...🤣😂probly needs to top the ps up.....gamer boy.

Thank you, much appreciated. There will definitely be plenty of C10 videos to come.

As long as you have a 1999 or later with the plastic fuel tank you are good to go.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 it’s 2001 🙏🏽

Good, if you’re offended by a T-shirt I wouldnt work for you.

You would have liked my original cut better, but I felt like I went too hard for some.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 lol that’s too funny

I wouldn’t recommend making a hole for the metal tanked Camaro. The pump is completely different and it has metal hard lines permanently attached to the pump that run forward at least a foot. You would have to make a pretty massive hole to fish that pump out. In those unfortunately I’d recommend dropping the tank.

Thank you.

I have a 95 Z28. I cut that hole back in the late '90s early 2000s and it's not as big as the one that he cut in this video. Yes I have a metal tank and it's actually easier.

No, I’m still in the middle of the entire project. Many times the pads that come with kits such as these are organic which dust a lot. I’d recommend trying a semi metallic or ceramic pad upgrade. That should take care of the problem.

Thank you! Much appreciated!