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What a clever idea. Thanks for taking the time to upload this 👍 Regards, Doc in Australia.

Interesting video. Nice work in sorting out your lathe.

Nice simple repair.

I really appreciate your video and the explanation. This made my task very easy and complete.

Very nice work sir.

You'll need to make sure it's well lubricated at all times, I can see a lot of wear on your already worn leadscrew.

Clever stuff cheers😊

Easily got my thumbs up. Of all the years I been a mechanic and at-home machinist, I have never seen anyone tackle that job like you did. Was very interesting following along to see what you did next. Thanks for sharing and thanks for not putting stupid music in the video. Was nice getting to hear you and the realistic sounds of your work.

Just been watching this as my speedometer is out by around 10mph! Only to discover this is my speedometer out of my MGB GT which I purchased from you earlier in the year. The GT is going really well by the way, I have re-foamed and recovered the seats, all new front suspension, covered around 1200 miles so far. Thank you.

Hi, I have been following your exploits with your Mellor lathe with interest. I too own a circa 1941 Mellor but mine is the turret version. I am interested to know how you faired with the cross slide nut repair and specifically what the trapezoidal thread size is. I have the same problem but have “fixed” the backlash by adding a spring loaded ball bearing into the thread to minimise the slap. Looking forward to seeing part two. Keep up the great content

At 3:10 there is a black shape inside the speedometer housing. Kind of diamond shape. I am wondering if that is rubber or what it is. I have mine apart, and the substance is hard as a rock.

This is amazing 🎉

still got a couple of oilers for your lathe,, just up the road from you at Northwood

Thanks very much. I have to first try the majgic hammer on my starter and solenoid today but otherwise pull it from the engine. This video has been very informative.

You look more tan than your past videos. lol

Your "fix" unfortunately limits the amount of travel for the crossfeed...! To fix that right you need to replace you nut and lead screw. If your going fix it fix it right... !

Does it mean that the oil sensor will close the circuit only in case of low pressure ? and never in case of too high pressure ? this means as well the ECU checks a close circuit first and then should go to an open circuit when the engine is running ?

As previous comment. I can’t find part 3. Is it possible to publish the link. Parts 1 and 2 are very informative and well presented

Very nice video , I have a 1961 MGA1600 since 2003, and Jeager SM6161/08 1440 speedo/tach/odo/trip. Workings must be similair. my speed jumps by +/- 5 mph at 30, trip counter does not add, odo works fine. So now I 'dare' to take her out and repair/clean this winter. Too bad your vid is in 480 iso 720/1080P.....

Do have two glass oilers that may fit your head stock to make oiling much better.

good lathe them Mellor's and be a lot better now you got that motor on. Just up the road from you , in Northwood

Olá amigo gsotei da adapoatação !! Boa sorte sempre

Nice work sir

Are you keeping Hamsters in there? Mice? You are making your lathe look stupid. Men of Mellor's day were brave enough to leave this sort of nonsense out

Looking good so far. Can't wait to watch part 2.

Hi i cant find video 3 of 3.... I have a defender speedo that looks similar, im hoping to either use an old speedo and adjust the miles to suit my tdi or fix the tdi speedo.

perfect! Exactly what I was looking for.

Very nice work sir

That gearing is called a back gear. My Logan lathe has it and many others do also.

Plain bearings max out at around 800 rpm, If you aren't going to use a countershaft, watch you don't over speed the spindle, and ruin it.

Back Gears are for Low Speed High Torque cutting operations. Large Diameter stuff etc !

Good explanation and visuals. Thanks

Use the back gear assembly you will need it believe me. Look at videos about atlas lathes close copy.

Olá amigo,que maravilha de torno,e muito bom trabalho!!!! Lhe desejo saúde e cada vez mais sucesso!!!

I would add that counter shaft back in. It gives you more speeds to the chuck. The big gear on the back is called a Back Gear. There is a screw on the large gear next to the chuck that will unscrew and allow the chuck to rotate in Back Gear. Very useful. Good luck figuring some of it out!!

Also, by discarding the second drive cone you are causing yourself problems: These enable you to have one size drive belt, which slips between four gears. If you attach your motor directly, you have to build an adjustor on the motor. Don;'t be removing things, because you don't understand them,. This a lovely, old lathe and I wish you luck restoring it

The large twin gears, which lock in and out are you Back Gears, they give a slow, strong speed: Bigger of the two is the Bull Wheel - you lose a key feature by removing them

Same part in mine split after 3 uses, no parts available in Canada... Thanks Karcher!

Thanks for the video. I have the same issue with my Karcher K7, where did you find the parts in the UK ? Thanks.

It seems as if you're missing something. Electricity! You need to get some power in there to make the whole thing work.

This is why I love the internet

Wow What a great description, Brilliant, thanks!!!!

Another MGB GT living in Shropshire mine lives just outside Telford a 74 on an N plate one of the last with chrome.

Great video!

Very informative. My oil pressure switch is a 3 prong for a 78 Cadillac Coupe with the 425 carburetor engine. One wire feeds on end of switch, other end has wire leading to indicator light on the dash and the other is a wire to the choke heater on side of carburetor. There's no 12v power going to choke heater, but the fuse and the light work ok as it should...could it still be a bad oil pressure switch? According to service manual the electric choke receives an electric current operating thru the oil pressure switch whenever the engine running and it isn't. I suspect it's bad because at cold start up the engine would run a bit all the while idleling bad and stumbling then it'll cut off. However, once i get it going, i have no issues at all thru the course of the day. Engine runs perfectly fine. It only occurs during start up and cold weather. Any feedback is appreciated 👏 thanks

Watching from Malawi I'm mechanical pressure washer vacuum cleaner generators

Neil amazing job explaining how all the components work together! I don't like fixing things by being told, connect here and there with no explanation as to why. Your explanation makes diagnosing problems and avoiding mistakes so much easier.

Thank you. Much appreciated

is there any difference in the construction of the switch for units with 2 or 3 spades?

Thank you so much for making this video. I have this exact issue with my 1965 MGB Smiths speedo. Although my internals were somewhat different, your video gave me the basics to complete the repair. A side note: I had the same issue with removing the internals due to the face and trip reset shaft. I solved it by removing the speedo needle and face first, then the internals dropped right out. Eazy Peezy.