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I can’t speak Italian sorry!

Thanks so much! 🥰🥰🥰

Thanks so much! 🥰

Thank you! Yay I’m so glad you like it 🥰🥰

Hi! I just responded to your other comment but you can use the measures of a sweater you already have or if you just want it to be longer and not cropped you can add chains to your starting chain. This will make it longer without effecting the arm holes. You could make that starting chain as long or short as you want it and it won’t affect the rest of the pattern as long as that number is divisible by 3+ you’re turning chain 😊🥰

Yes that would definitely work! You’ll just have to make sure that your starting chain and chain up to the shoulder are a number that can be divided by 3 + the turning chain 😊 the stitch pattern is worked in groups of threes! Let me know if you have any questions along the way!

Yay I’m so glad you like it! Let me know if you have any questions 🥰🥰

Thanks so much! 🥰🥰🥰

Hi! the size guide is for women sizes but you could definitely make it for a man. You can check out how mens sizes compare to women in measurement, etc and pick the closest size to the measurements you want. I would guess it's about 2 sizes up but I'm not certain so worth a google. This pattern is also cropped so if you want it to be longer, just add some rows to the first section of all panels, under the arm pit. it won't effect the rest of the pattern other than the neckline ribbing which you would need to make longer. I hope this helps!

Yayy! 🥰🥰🥰

Hi! Yes pretty much! If you just want to make it longer without affecting the size of the armhole, then add in some extra rows in the first section under the arm pit for all of the panels. If you want to make it longer with a bigger arm hole then add some extra rows to the first section and some extra rows above the arm hole 😊 let me know if you have any trouble! 🥰🥰

@@StephanieTashi Yer a champeen ! :D

Sorry I can’t speak Dutch 😔

Hi! You could use a 5mm hook but depending on your tension it could make the vest smaller so you might need to add a couple of extra stitches and rows to each section 🥰

@@StephanieTashi okay thank youu 🤗

Hi! This would be a tough one if you’ve never crocheted anything before. I would never want to dissuade anyone from trying but given that it’s a tight timeframe, I would hate to tell you to try and have it not work out how you want it. If you do want to give it a go, I think it would be best to watch a few videos on how to do basic stitches because I don’t go through it in a lot of depth in the video. You would need to know chain stitches and slip stitches as well as generally how to do an increase and a decrease. I do explain a bit but probably not absolute beginner level. Learning slip stitches would be the most important though as that’s the majority of the beanie and it’s not the easiest stitch for beginners when you’re still working out your tension. If you do decide to give it a go anyway and have any questions, let me know and I’ll help if I can 🥰🥰

Hi! Yes it can 😊 I provide stitch counts and cm/inch measurements for a size medium in the video

@StephanieTashi thank you for info 💕

Hi! Yes you could sc instead of slst but you would need to follow the cm/inch measurements instead of the row and stitch counts. Sc is a bigger stitch so it would make the vest bigger using the stitch and row counts 🥰🥰

@thank you very much 🩵

Hi! It depends a bit on the yarn - handwashing will always be the safest but I have washed crochet items in the washing machine on a cold general wash in a lingerie bag and they’ve come out great 🥰

Hi! I’m not familiar with Himalaya yarn so it would probably depend on the weight of your yarn. For reference the weight of the yarn I used was medium/category 4 with a 6mm hook. It measures 125 metres per 100 grams of yarn. Hopefully you can compare that to your yarn 🥰

@@StephanieTashi got it thank you🤍

Hi! If you make the ribbing section slightly smaller than the circumference of the babies head you want to make it for then the rest of the pattern should work out. So basically if you measure the head of the baby or look up baby head sizes depending on the age of the baby, then you’ll just do the rows or back loop single crochets until it’s long enough to go around the babies head. Once you’ve done that and joined the two ends together to make a circle, the video will tell you how to do the next rows and thats not dependent on size. You can follow the same stitches for any size because it’s using the number of rows you had from the ribbing 😊 hopefully that helps 🥰

@@StephanieTashi thank you so very much 💖

Specifically after the straight stitches, I don’t understand at all what you mean with the rows 😢

No problem! Once you’ve stitched the panels together you’ll need to join on to one of the corners of the neck hole. Then you’ll have to put one single crochet into every stitch going around. When you’re going into the front and back panel sections with the stitches - so anything that was stitched horizontally - it’s just one single crochet in each stitch. When you get to the section where you have to stitch into the side of the rows, then for every two rows you’ll need to do three single crochets. Once you’ve done that first row, you’ll need to do an increase at the start of the row then one single crochet into each stitch and then an increase at the end of the row. Then You’ll need to turn around and put one single crochet into every stitch of the previous row. The next row will have an increase at the start, one single crochet in each stitch and an increase at the end and you just keep swapping between rows with increases at either end and rows with no increases until you’ve done as many rows as you want to do - which I did 10 😊 hopefully that helps! 🥰

Hi! If you just want the vest to be a bit longer, you can leave all of the other measurements as they are. Increasing the other measurements would make the vest longer from the top of the shoulder to the armpit which will make the arm hole bigger. If you wanted to be more oversized though you could definitely do that but if you’re just looking for length, you only need to adjust that first measurement like you described 🥰🥰

Hi! By long do you mean you don’t want the shoulder part to go so far over your shoulder? If yes then the best way would be to make an armhole with rows that specifically stop under your armpit. So for the first handful of tows rows for the front panels (and the first and last handful on the back panel) you would do a couch shorter row that stop under your arm instead of doing the full rows. Most of my other vest pattern have armhole like that if you want to check the out to see how you can do it 🥰🥰

@@StephanieTashi thank you! i will give your suggestion a go!

Thanks so much 🥰🥰

Sorry that you found the video confusing! I’m actually working on a simpler version of the vest at the moment! The stitch pattern will be the same so it will look similar but the changes between sections will be a lot easier. It will be my next video if you are interested 🥰

Thanks so much 🥰🥰🥰

Thanks so much 🥰🥰🥰

Oh no! What do you mean by dangles? Like one side of longer than the other?

@@StephanieTashi yess every time left side of my cardigan dangles a little and when I do edging this side dangles more, and I don't know the cause , 😔

That’s so strange! The only things I can think of to do is to check that you have the same number of rows in the left panel or potentially your attention was a bit looser. Potentially, you could fix it by making the trim for the middle of the cardigan where the buttons go really tight. Like if you stitch those vertical stitches really tightly it might pull the dangling part up? You could also do the trim around the bottom a bit tighter either with a smaller hook or just pulling the extra harder. Hopefully that will help!

Hi! It depends a little where you are counting from but it should mostly be starting with 2 hdc rows, then 2 ss rows, 2 hdc, 2 ss etc. and that would it would be if you were counting from on side of a panel going across the rows. If you want to count it based on the first stitch you actually do in each row, if the row is an even number of groups of 3 stitches (eg 24 stitches / 3 = 8) then it would be 2 hdc, 2 ss, 2 hdc etc If the rows have an odd number of groups of 3 stitches (21 stitches / 3 = 7) then it would be 1 hdc row, 2 ss rows, 2 hdc, 2 ss, repeating 2 rows of each from the first row. Hopefully that helps but let me know if not 🥰

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Thanks you so much! That’s so sweet 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰

Hi! The almond stitch pattern is worked in groups of 3 stitches so the number will need to be divisible by 3 and then the plus one is just adding 1 stitch as the turning chain. You only add the 1 stitch once, not to each group of 3. So for eg I did 22 chains which is 7x3= 21 +1 = 22 But if you want it to be longer change the 7 in the equation to a bigger number, or smaller if you want it shorter. Eg 9x3= 27 + 1= 28 4x3= 12 + 1= 13 etc Hopefully that makes more sense 🥰

Hi! No problem 😊 These are the approximate measurements and stitch counts. The front panel could be about 12cm or 18 chains with the back panel being about 29cm or 40 chains. He’ll also need about 16 less rows for the waist trim. The length of your son’s torso will also depend on whether or not the current length is about right or if it needs to be shorter. If it needs to be shorter, then he’ll need to do 12 rows under the arm hole, 4 decrease rows, and 12 rows above the arm hole. then he’ll need to do about 20 less rows for the neckline trim and the arm trim will also need about 10 less rows if doing the short/cropped version. Let me know if anything doesn’t make sense 🥰

Hi! I think this is the same comment but just incase it’s not - These are the approximate measurements and stitch counts. The front panel could be about 12cm or 18 chains with the back panel being about 29cm or 40 chains. He’ll also need about 16 less rows for the waist trim. The length of your son’s torso will also depend on whether or not the current length is about right or if it needs to be shorter. If it needs to be shorter, then he’ll need to do 12 rows under the arm hole, 4 decrease rows, and 12 rows above the arm hole. then he’ll need to do about 20 less rows for the neckline trim and the arm trim will also need about 10 less rows if doing the short/cropped version. Let me know if anything doesn’t make sense 🥰

Hi! No problem 😊 I don’t have a written pattern for at the moment but I should be able to write it up this weekend and I will comment it here when it’s done 🥰

Hi! I have the written pattern. The beanie does use a bit of improvising as you go so it's not an exact pattern but hopefully it helps :) Ribbing band (worked in rows) Chain 11 Row 1: sc into 2nd chain from hook, sc in remaining 9 chains, chain 1 and turn (10) Row 2: backloop sc into each stitch, chain 1 and turn (10) Rows 3-75: repeat row 2 (10) If this isn’t the right size for your head, add or move rows as needed Use 10 slip stitches to join both end of the band together (one in each stitch) then turn the band so it is horizontal with the good side facing you Main beanie (worked in the round) Row 1: sc into the end of each row x 3, inc, (3 sc, inc) x repeat all the way around. Don’t worry if you don’t end on an inc. slip stitch to join first stitch in row, chain 1 Row 2: sc into each stitch, slip stitch into first stitch in row, chain 1 Row 3: sc into front loop only into each stitch, slip stitch into front loop of first stitch in row, chain 1 Row 4: *sc inc, hdc inc, dc inc, tc, chain 1, tc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc inc* repeat around. End on a sc increase regardless of if your second last stitch is not a hdc inc. it just needs to match the start of the row and won’t be noticeable when all the ‘leafy’ rows are done. Slip stitch to first sc of row, chain 2 and slip stitch into the backloop of the first stitch in row 2, chain 3 Row 5: dc into each backloop of row 2, slip stitch into first stitch of the row, chain 1 Row 6: sc into front loop only into each stitch, slip stitch into front loop of first stitch in row, chain 4 Row 7: *tc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc inc, sc inc, hdc inc, dc inc, tr, chain 1* repeat around. End on a tc regardless of if your second last stitch is not a dc inc. It just needs to match the start of the row. Slip stitch to first tc of row, chain 1 and slip stitch into the backloop of the first stitch in the row, chain 4, slip stitch into first backloop of row 5, chain 3 Row 8: dc into each backloop of row 5, slip stitch into first stitch of the row, chain 1 Row 9-14: repeat rows 3 to 8, ending on a row the same as row 7. Row 15: doing dc into backloop of row 12 (3 sc, dec) x repeat around, slip stitch into first stitch of the row, chain 1 Row 16: sc into front loop only into each stitch, slip stitch into front loop of first stitch in row, chain 1 Row 17: *sc inc, hdc inc, dc inc, tc, chain 1, tc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc inc* repeat around. End on a sc increase regardless of if your second last stitch is not a hdc inc. it just needs to match the start of the row and won’t be noticeable when all the ‘leafy’ rows are done. Slip stitch to first sc of row, chain 2 and slip stitch into the backloop of the first stitch in row 2, chain 3 Row 18: doing dc into backloop of row 15 (3 sc, dec) x repeat around, slip stitch into first stitch of the row, chain 1 Row 19: sc into front loop only into each stitch, slip stitch into front loop of first stitch in row, chain 1 Row 20: *tc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc inc, sc inc, hdc inc, dc inc, tr, chain 1* repeat around. End on a tc regardless of if your second last stitch is not a dc inc. It just needs to match the start of the row. Slip stitch to first tc of row, chain 1 and slip stitch into the backloop of the first If you need more height to your beanie, repeat rows 15-20 again. The size that i’ve made should suit most heads but good idea to check here Row 21: doing dc into backloop of row 18 (1 sc, dec) x repeat around, slip stitch into first stitch of the row, chain 1 Row 22: sc into front loop only into each stitch, slip stitch into front loop of first stitch in row, chain 1 Row 23: *sc inc, hdc inc, dc inc, tc, chain 1, tc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc inc* repeat around. End on a sc increase regardless of if your second last stitch is not a hdc inc. it just needs to match the start of the row and won’t be noticeable when all the ‘leafy’ rows are done. Slip stitch to first sc of row, chain 2 and slip stitch into the backloop of the first stitch in row 2, chain 3 Row 24: doing dc into backloop of row 21 (1 sc, dec) x repeat around, slip stitch into first stitch of the row, chain 1 Row 25: sc into front loop only into each stitch, slip stitch into front loop of first stitch in row, chain 1 Row 26: *tc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc inc, sc inc, hdc inc, dc inc, tr, chain 1* repeat around. End on a tc regardless of if your second last stitch is not a dc inc. It just needs to match the start of the row. Slip stitch to first tc of row, chain 1 and slip stitch into the backloop of the first Row 27: doing dc into backloop of row 24 (1 sc, dec) x repeat around, slip stitch into first stitch of the row, chain 1 Row 28: sc into front loop only into each stitch, slip stitch into front loop of first stitch in row, chain 2 Row 29: *hdc inc, dc inc, tc, chain 1, tc, dc inc, hdc inc* repeat around. End on a hdc increase regardless of if your second last stitch is not a hdc inc. it just needs to match the start of the row and won’t be noticeable when all the ‘leafy’ rows are done. Slip stitch to first sc of row, chain 2 and slip stitch into the backloop of the first stitch in row 2, chain 3 Row 30: doing dc into backloop of row 27 dec 3 together (st3tog) and repeat around, slip stitch into first stitch of the row, pull a tail and weave in you ends. Let me know if you have any questions :)

@@StephanieTashi Thank you very much!!

Hi! You’ll need to do the decreases on every row in the decrease section, so all 5 😊 In the video (and the pattern) I do decreases at the start of the row for rows 1, 3 and 5 but at the end of the row for rows 2 and 4 so maybe that’s why it’s confusing. Does that make more sense? If you do decreases in all those rows at the same end of the panel it should work out 🥰🥰

​@@StephanieTashiThat makes sense, thank you so much for clarifying! I'm so excited to finish this project 🥰

Yay I’m so glad you like it! Let me know if you have any other questions 🥰🥰

Yay I’m glad you like it! 🥰🥰

@@StephanieTashi please is there a way I can make the neckline lower?

Yeah no problem! I think the best way to lower the neckline without changing the rest of the vest is to remove some of the straight rows with no increases or decreases after the stripes. For every row you remove, you’ll need to add a row to the top of the shoulder. After you’ve done the shoulder section like the pattern, just add the same number of rows you removed from the other section. These rows at the top of the shoulder should have no decreases or increases and you would need to do it for both of the shoulder sections. You could also take the extra rows away from the stripe section instead - basically from any row that has no decreases or increases after the arm hole. The same would apply if you want to lower the neckline on the back panel as well. Does that make sense? Let me know if you have any more questions 🥰🥰

@@StephanieTashi omg you explained it so well. Thanks a lot🩷

Thanks so much! I glad you like the videos 🥰🥰🥰

Hi! I’m glad you like it so far 🥰 I think they’re probably a couple of options and it will depend on where the placement of the armhole is to the top of the shoulder. if it’s a bit tight from the arm to the top of the shoulder as it is now, then it’s probably better to add more rows after the armhole. You could add some where you are at the top of the shoulder and it will give you a bit of a bigger neckline, or if you want the higher neckline, you could just undo the decrease rows and add a few more rows there and then keep going. If you like the armhole placement as it is, then I think you could just add more rows to the trim at the bottom of the top. At the end I add more rows to that first starting chain, but facing the opposite way. The stitches are exactly the same so it will look the same as the rest of the top, it will just be going down instead of going up. You could add as many as you needed to that section 😊 If you’re not sure you’ll like that, try a row or two at the bottom first to make sure. I hope this helps! 🥰🥰

@@StephanieTashi Oh that makes sense, thank you so much for writing out all those options!

No problem at all 🥰

Thank you 😊

Thank you so much 🥰🥰 yess I prefer not too much bulk under the arms!

I found a tutorial for a human sized tutorial on TH-cam and just made it tiny 😊 the tutorial I followed was from TCDDIY called ‘easy crochet turban’ 🥰

No problem! Hopefully I can explain this in a way the makes sense! The first section where I’ve done 8 rows is 46cm/18” in length but the slip stitches pull the chain tighter so the chain will need to be about 53cm/21”. The 8 rows for me in that first section is about 4cm/2.5”. The the next section where you stop about 3/4 of the way down is 36cm/14” in length and that whole face section is 12cm/4 3/4” wide with the extra stitch added at about 1/3 of the way and taken out about 2/3s of the way - so you could do 4cm/4cm/4cm. Then for the section with the decreases for the face hole - it will start at about 10cm/4” and just keep decreasing till you get to about 4cm/2.5” then straight across and back up the other side. The number of rows in the straight section will depend on the number of rows you have in the decreases and increases but if you just make the increases and decreases even and do the same number of rows as the above the eye section it should be fine! Then the other side is going to be 4cm/2.5” again :) hopefully that makes sense but let me know if you have any questions!

Thanks so much! I’m glad you like it 🥰🥰🥰

Hi! Oh no! I started with 22 chains for mine. If it’s a bit too short you could make the trim at the bottom a bit wider? 🥰

Excuse me, after you started with the line after this 16:10, did you start with a filler line or a column?​@@StephanieTashi

I'm sorry - I don't know what you mean

​@@StephanieTashiCould you please reshoot until 16:54? I have done it five times, and it didn’t work. I couldn’t understand the instructions in your pinned comment. Please respond, and thank you.

Even if you write it down, I won’t understand it, so it won’t take much of your time. I know the divisions and everything, but the problem starts from 11:16 to 16:10. Please reshoot it today.

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Thanks so much!! And I’m sure you will be! The first one is my newest vest and quickly becoming a fav! I’ll be posting the tutorial for it soon 🥰

5:55 ch 1, turn work, ch 3, sc into gap

8:58 armhole - turn work, slip stitch into 3 dc heads. Ch 3, sc into gaps

thanks so much!