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Bill Bayer
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2012
วีดีโอ
PTO Motor Mount Finished - Ms. Cub
มุมมอง 990วันที่ผ่านมา
I spent most of this weekend going through multiple mule drives to find one that will fit the mower deck I want to use. Once I did get one to fit, turns out it's STILL the wrong one. I'm pretty sure I know what I need now. Since I did have a drive mounted, I was able to figure out exactly where the PTO motor goes and modify and weld in the mount. I also started looking at how I'll make a rear P...
Shifting Gears to HVAC -TSLA VW
มุมมอง 98หลายเดือนก่อน
With the majority of fabrication out of the way, it's time to move inward. I need to get the HVAC box sorted out. First step was getting the heater core in place. I ordered a new A/C evaporator. Once that gets here I can close the HVAC box up and figure out how the flaps that send air to your face or feet work...then mount servos...then make those work. Thanks for watching, Bill
Front Box Hung - TSLA VW
มุมมอง 173หลายเดือนก่อน
This weekend I got the front battery box mounts made. This is a pretty big deal as I can finally lower the VW off of jacks and onto rollers so I can move it around to make access to other parts easier. Thanks for watching, Bill
Condenser Installation - TSLA VW
มุมมอง 68หลายเดือนก่อน
Getting this condenser mounted has been a long time coming but I finally got it. I didn't want it in front, in the traditional location, because I plan on blocking off all of the holes where air would normally go into the radiator. This should help out quite a bit with aerodynamics. I'm also curious to see if it's more efficient to use fans to force air through the condenser vs. the aerodynamic...
An Executive Decision - Ms Cub
มุมมอง 204หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video, it'll become clear that I'm no "youtuber" so the quality is pretty bad and the edits suck. Oh well, I guess I'll have to make my fortune some other way.
Motor Mounted, Chassis Stripped - Ms Cub
มุมมอง 6322 หลายเดือนก่อน
Busy weekend! Got the motor positioned and tacked into place and got the transmission pressure washed and chassis stripped down ready to be sand blasted. Next I'll get the transmission taken apart and replace seals and make sure it's in good condition. Thanks for watching! Bill
Flail Cutting - The Cub
มุมมอง 3002 หลายเดือนก่อน
This is a video from earlier this summer. I thought it was already uploaded.
Progress Clearly Being Made! - TSLA VW
มุมมอง 1542 หลายเดือนก่อน
Progress Clearly Being Made! - TSLA VW
It's a Marathon, Not a Sprint - TSLA VW
มุมมอง 1835 หลายเดือนก่อน
It's a Marathon, Not a Sprint - TSLA VW
Helpful information. Not being rude I’ve been watching all your building videos. Only thing I can say is, the layout needs to be different. Less explaining everything and just building your product, kinda like Grind Hard Plumbing does. Show us your building the product, maybe a brief over view of what you did. A nice camera stand to hold your camera and go from there lol! You seem to know how to edit so I’m sure you can do it quite well. Maybe less videos a week, like maybe 1. Just some constructive criticism also. I’m sure your videos will get a lot more traction.
I appreciate your feedback. Yeah, I really don't know what it takes to be the TH-cam sensation I dreamt of as a child. :) I follow another guy who basically does exactly the same things you suggest and other things I thought would help: More face time, less explaining, better editing, time-lapse of work with cool music over dubbed, fewer videos with more content in each. He's no more popular than I am. Who knows???
@ yea I’m sure it takes time. You do a lot of transitioning gas to electric which a lot of people will be intrigued about. A lot has to do with titles of videos and what not also. I’d like to see you change your format to that. Cause your content is great. I’m in the middle of watching all your “The Cub” videos to see how you built that really cool looking machine
@lepore5326 thanks for watching! I glad you like it.
That worked amazingly well. If you've ever tried plowing snow with the same plow on a stock Cub, you'll find out that it basically doesn't work. If you angle your blade even the slightest bit left, then the tractor doesn't plow snow to the left, the snow simply pushes the tractor to a sharp right turn. The issue is that the front wheels are A: not powered, B fairly smooth, C: not enough weight on the front. Your articulating Cub has none of these problems and plows like a dream. Yes, you get a bit of gravel moved but that's exactly what you get with an expensive plow truck too. Thanks for the video.
Great information, thank you! I've never actually driven a stock/2wd Cub so that is very good to know. I am working on one (you can see the progress in my other videos) and thought I might try to make a mount for the plow but now I don't think there's any point.
@@billbayer5526 I would surely not spend much effort trying to get a plow to fit a 2WD Cub for the reasons I stated. However I'll also add that it can push snow straight forward, but only if you have tire chains, otherwise you'll just sit there spinning one wheel.
Some people have been putting a pvc pipe on the bottom of their plows to keep them from digging into the gravel/ dirt.
Yeah, the lost part of the video showed how I tried to do that. I tried to use a 1" PVC pipe but it was just too small. I'd either have to remove the scraping edge of the blade to slide the PVC over the blade or get some 1.25" PVC. We only get snow once or twice a year so it's really not worth it.
Awesome machine you’ve built !!!
Thank you!
Nice! I'm an old guys who admits we have to change things. Thanks for showing that it is possible.
Nice progress!
Is there enough room to add an electric PTO clutch where the driven pulley is that rotates the shaft heading to the rear?
Originally, I was going to run a hydraulic pump from the cam pulley and had an electric clutch for the front PTO pulley. To make it all fit I had to extend the frame about 1 1/2" which opened up all sorts of other "problems." I think I've figured out a way to use the Lovejoy (or similar) like I described. Thanks for watching!
In the '70s GE just put 1 36-volt motor per blade directly driving each blade on their Elek-Trak lawn tractors.
@@WilliamWallace14051 they were ahead of their time. Batteries were not ready at the time.
Helll YEAH!!!!
What a cool project. Subscribed!
@gwogg8209 thank you!
Have a great Christmas, Phil from England
The Arduino Uno is great for learning the basics of the hardware. I would suggest using the Arduino Pro Mini 328 or the Metro Mini 328 V2 when you start to make something to go into your vehicle. Those are smaller, and you can then just solder that board to a piece of prototype board where the rest of your components are. If you are not already familiar, I'd suggest checking out the adafruit site as they have lots of good hardware and tutorials. I do lots of PLC type programming but would not call myself C proficient. However I've done several simple Arduino based projects. It's amazingly simple to get started interfacing with I2C devices like temperature sensors, LCD displays etc. My last project simply read a 0-5V analog input that represented battery state of charge from a BMS. It then scaled that value to read 0-100% and displayed the value on a 1.3" OLED I2C display.
Nice work on that Driver's side passenger mount! 🤔 😄 Great progress Bill. Keep at it!
So glad to have found you and your videos. Have a Nibbi G219 s that my Godson is working on to convert to 48v. Have been trying to decide whether to keep the power hungry attachments such as flails PTO powered, petrol powered or 48v. Looks like 48v could be the way to go! Keep on making and posting! A
Thanks for watching! Those Nibbi tractors are really neat! I wish we had stuff like that here in the states! For me, there's no question to keep all attachments electric. For your Nibbi, whether they're electric via the tractor's PTO or run off an independent motor like I've done, well, that would come down to whichever is more convenient but the energy consumption would be roughly the same. If you're ok with the noise, maintenance, smells and expense of refueling then perhaps petrol power would be better. You'll certainly have more run time with an attachment that draws its power from an energy source other than the tractor's battery. I'd love to see some pictures or video of your project!
@@billbayer5526 thanks. Will post some pictures and video as soon as Josh finds some time to work on it. A
If you're dropping the hydraulics, consider dropping the big motor and all of the belts (and their associated power loss) completely. Maybe mount smaller motors directly to the mower deck and just run wires?
@@mwendell I'd be interested if I could find some 48v deck motors.
Very cool!
Very cool!
Using a tripod would be a substantial improvement. Your projects are interesting, but come with a propensity for motion sickness.
haha... yeah, you are not wrong. It's a little Blare Witch sometimes. I should probably have some sort of script and do a few dry-runs first, too.
That dash is MINT compared to anything here in AZ!!!
I’d just bin that dash, and get a dashboard out of a Cabriolet, which is drastically. Enter looking, and oftentimes I much better shape.
Both my 79 hilux and 91 K1500 look like this. I will be watching.
Nice, good progress, keep it up! 😄
Thank you, sir.
For restoring old equipment I highly recommend a blast cabinet. You'll need a good sized air compressor though, I'd say a minimum of 3 actual horsepower, but I recommend a 5HP 60-80 gallon, and that's what I use. I'd also recommend the Harbor Freight floor model cabinet and NOT the bench top unit. You'll also need a shop vac with a fine dust (drywall) filter to provide negative cabinet pressure. I've basically described my setup although I've heavily modified my cabinet by changing the window into a hinged door/window so that it's quick and easy to change out the plastic film glass protectors. If you do a lot of blasting you'll appreciate being able to replace them quickly. I replaced the original nozzles / trigger as I've worn through them. Bright lighting inside the cabinet is also important. After you have a setup like that you'll find yourself blasting everything that will fit in the cabinet before painting it. It's so much easier than wire brushing, and the texture it leaves behind makes a huge difference on how well the paint adheres. Blast media I get from Tractor Supply.
Great info, thanks! My garage is basically off-grid and the inverter would strongly object to a 5hp compressor! I also just don't have room for that large of a tank or a blast cabinet for that matter. Maybe one day I'll build a larger garage with enough room and power for that as well as other stuff I'd like to have.
That "Ta Da!", made my Monday.
That love joy seems a little on the small size. I'd also recommend a Hytrel spider for it.
You're probably right about the size, definitely right about the Hytrel. I'm most likely going to replace it with a solid coupler.
She's a yanker 💪 Electric torque is on a whole different level 👀
Wow, just found your page, ! great field engineering, since you've done so much i want to ask you about converting my John Deere X500 to E-power, I've got batteries and a nice fardriver 72v300a controller, so the motor is my question, my idea is to find a motor that will sit right where the ICE engine is and rotate the same PTO pulley set that is on there now, do you have any idea which motor would work good? my voltage range will be 50-60 approx, the controller gives me plenty of speed control, I source several battery sets from broken hybrids, so feel good about them,
The ME1004 was made for that purpose. It has an extended 1" shaft that should fit your dual pulley. Any reason in particular for picking the X500?
@@billbayer5526 it's what was available, i had good experience once in the past, but i got this one for $700
Love a flail mower. Is that a Cub, Sears, or Mott brand?
It's a Mott flail.
If you want the height measurement of the front pto pulley (or belt length), i have a 1772 kubota diesel cub cadet with a mower deck. I know it's not the same tractor, the frame rails are a bit lower on the front but i think the offset from the bottom of the frame might be the same. Let me know if it's useful to you. but Nice project looking very promising! btw Also like your articulated Cub cadet very much 😆 keep up the good work!
Yes, I'd like to know the measurement. The 4x4 Cub is the coolest thing I've ever built! I love that tractor.
@@billbayer5526 i measured from the center of the pulley to the bottom of the frame 7.5in (190mm) pto pulley diameter is outside ø4.5in (115mm) V-belt on mine for a original cub 50in mowerdeck is a 5LK920 5/8x92" (15.9x2337mm) . Hope it's useful. your 4wd cub is indeed awesome. it's articulated and electric, super nice! 😆
@@thebrojectlist6881 Thank you! Well, I'm at 6.5" as the motor sits now and the PTO motor is slightly higher than the drive motor which is inline with the input of the transmission.
@@billbayer5526 if it's somewhat inline with the input shaft on the transmission it'll be close to original. The kubota engine is probably slightly taller than the gas engine that was in yours. Aren't those electric motor going to overheat if the backsides are so close to each other? maybe 3D print new covers with cooling slots to the sides? just in idea though 😛
@@thebrojectlist6881 The drive motor is designed for 8hp and the PTO is 10hp continuously. Neither one of them will ever put out that much power. The PTO motor will put out around 2 to 3hp while the drive will rarely go over 1hp while mowing. They're very efficient so don't put out much heat. I currently cut the lawn pulling a 48" mower deck with a motor just like the drive motor in this tractor. After an hour of cutting in the middle of summer, the motor will be hot to the touch but wouldn't burn you. It's pretty impressive, really.
If you get an extended drill bit, you could drill down the centerline of the filler neck into the reservoir. Then, weld a piece of rod onto the reservoir, in that hole. Then, slide it back up into the filler neck hole and bend the rod to be aligned perfectly centered, in the hole. This will help you get the alignment for the new filler tube. I’d also abandon the steel filler neck for all aluminum. You can then cut a plate with a hole the size of the filler tube, and slide it down over the new filler neck. Mount the whole assembly in place, and then tack the filler neck plate onto the the filler neck, while it is aligned perfectly with the body. Then, of course remove, fully weld, and re insert and drill out the 3 mounting screws and weld on a new cap.
phew! I'm going to have to read that a few times...that's a lot! haha. I stuck a sharpie down there on a long piece of all-thread and scribbled a reference for the filler. I really like the idea of welding a piece of rod to the center of that scribble then bending it to match the center of the filler tube. Good idea! As for getting rid of the metal filler tube, I want to keep it. I want to keep the gas cap, too. I think it'd be hilarious to open the cap in a crowd and pour water into the "fuel tank." I could tell them it runs on water!
Is there any particular reason why you're going with a single motor setup?
It'll be dual motor. Another motor coupled to the transmission...I just haven't got there yet! ;) :)
I believe those beds are a true 4’x8’… it’d be a shame if you couldn’t go to the hardware store for a piece of plywood with it after all this work.
100% I'm not going to reduce the bed. I'd like to be able to drive Ms. Cub up into the back of it, too. Raise the bucket up over the cab and drive on.
Use the barrel to make Biochar for the garden and use the wood gas or heat for either an internal or external combustion engine. You know, when you run out of projects
I was replying to the previous video and autoplay jumped to the middle of this video mid typing? I dunno
@@johnd169 I'll put that on my list of things to do when I run out of things to do!
So is that just a 12v winch then and you used an inverter someplace to step it down?
Yep, that's just a normal 12v ATV winch. I think I got it from Harbor Freight. I have a little lawn and garden 12v battery and there's a DCDC converter (steps the 48v down to 12v)..it's the doo dad with the orange terminal blocks above the motor.
Come on, fill us in, why??? I loved checking back in and seeing what was going on with this build, why did you strip it and sell it?
Well, a number of reasons. The driveline had quite a bit of vibration in it due to some unfortunate driveshaft angles. I was always afraid of accelerating hard for fear of breaking an axle because of all the torque. The only way to fix it would have been to do a D44 swap or, better yet, a completely custom rear axle that had a drivers side diff (like the front) instead of center drop. This would probably have fixed the vibration problem, too. But, $$$$$$! Jeeps are not very practical to start with and with 1/4 of the battery pack sitting in the only real place to put anything and the cumbersome rear soft top window, my Jeep was even worse! It was killer on off road trails! With better tires, it would have been nearly unstopable. I don't have any trails near me though and despite having a huge battery pack, it was so inefficient that I only had a safe range of about 120mi. Basically, it just didn't fit my lifestyle and I wasn't driving it much so I took it off the road. It was a great experience, I learned a lot and met a lot of great people because of it. I'm glad you enjoyed it and thank for watching!
@@billbayer5526 - Well, that was incredibly frank and honest - thank you.
@@billbayer5526 Hay, I'm starting a EV conversion company, it's called 4x4 EVC, I have a bunch of videos of my build (1894 Jeep CJ-7). I would love to chat about your comments and where we are in this process.
@@billbayer5526 Hi Bill, just emailed you. You can pull this private stuff down if you like.
By any chance have you tried putting resonators on the very end of the exhaust on the tips or is better sound reducing putting the resonators on the pipe after the cat converter
I think you commented on the wrong video. :)
I can relate. I got the BEV C6 Corvette on the road and I really do not want to drive it.
Wait...what?? I didn't know you got it on the road!
Aww man. What's the next project
@99Jeep2008 I have a little VW pickup I'm converting
Well that just made me sad. Did you sell it?
@@Wrangler4XEFans yeah. Took it all apart about a year ago.
@@billbayer5526You had a lot of work in that thing.
@@Wrangler4XEFans true!
The end of an era...):
Just an idea, but before you finish up the final paint on the hitch, if you welded on a little nub on the bottom of the front of the reciever tube, that the floor jack cup could envelope, it'd make you feel better about jacking it up, as the hitch won't slide off of the jack, as you're jacking it.
Interesting idea. Wouldn't be hard to make that happen. thanks!
Bolt it!!! You never know what changes you may want to make in the future. You could also make more of them and sell them right?
I think I'm going to bolt the sides and weld the center supports. If I ever needed to take it out, it'd be easy enough to cut through the supports.
"We're gonna call this 90% efficient, because it's mine and I wanna brag on it." That's the spirit!
Any concerns about water or debris getting into the square tube hitch frame with the ends open? Box them closed? Or maybe weep holes?
@jonathanotto7840 good piont!! Thank you.
You should see my VW truck build. It does use a jack shaft, like the donor car, which is a mini-cooper.
Where might I see it??
@@billbayer5526 th-cam.com/video/A9pGNgPECzM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-3jkPtsZidRQlWSY
Great progress!
Great video! Like problem solving part on Cub innovations
If I ever had to get an electric scooter I'd convert an original 1960s IH cub
Look for a Johnson or Kwikway loader, as both fit the Quietline cubs pretty cleanly.
I'm actually looking forward to making it myself.
Cub then V-Dub
@jonathanotto7840 so far you have the controlling vote! I'm not sure anyone else made it to the end! 🤔