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Hello bartb7790, Your experience sounds typical for those who've had a complaint with the tires. That complaint is little or no issue with the rear, and basically nearly the same as what you describe for the front. I've put thousands of miles on mine at this point, and don't think there's a safety or traction issue with the front. Just the occasional, situational, issue similar to your description. While I wish Michelin would have come out and admitted there was an "issue" with these specific front tires, they instead quietly issued a redesign/refinement of the front tread for current production. If you look at the information on Michelin's website for the Commander III Touring tires, you'll now find this little "admission", or confirmation, that there WAS an issue for tires manufactured PRIOR to 06/2021. From Michelin's website- "Starting in June 2021, the Michelin Commander III Touring front tire has been redesigned, including an enhanced tread pattern, to limit its natural frequency. Internal testing has confirmed the redesigned solution eliminates the harmonic resonance or buzzing sensation to deliver an enjoyable riding experience." There's also a pictorial reference on the page that has the verbiage above that shows the change in their tread pattern. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

@@GeezeRider Front tire date code is 1920 and made in Thailand.

bartb7790, That date code is the 19th week of 2020, which equates to a manufacturing date between 5/4/2020 - 5/10/2020. That is within the date range of the complaints I was able to verify. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Thank you for sharing your impressions/experiences. I know what you mean regarding the tread pattern. It is VERY different from what you normally see in a touring tire. I must admit that when I was researching them in the beginning, I often wondered if the pictures I was seeing were just at some odd angles or something to cause it to "look like that". Once I observed them in person, I realized that's just the way they are made. They definitely changed things to get the extra miles out of them. I currently have thousands of miles on mine, and can say they barely look broken in, and are still handling well. Rain performance is still adequate/good, but certainly not phenomenal. That being said, I felt my previous Dunlop Elites were only slightly better in the rain, so I'm still happy with the CIII Touring tires. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello fsriccobon8279, Thank you for the compliment. I'm glad you found the information useful. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello Craig, I need a little more information to answer your question. In the scenario you're describing, where is the receiver (the part that plugs into power and the various ports on the jacket)?

@@GeezeRider left at the bike or on the the jacket at the bike. Or if the remote is attached to the bike and you go away from the bike with main controller on you basically how far away can the remote be from the main controller to maintain connection?

The remote uses "Bluetooth Low Energy" or BLE for transmission. The Nominal maximum range for BLE is 330 ft. Note that there are a LOT of external factors that can reduce that range- Devices not being in line of sight, ambient signal noise in the are, being inside a structure, etc.. Basically expect a bit less than that range in practical application. Also note that there is a newer version of BLE which allegedly has a greater range, but I doubt that's being used in these products. This is why you may see differing statements about the maximum distance for BLE in your search results. I'm still a bit unsure of your proposed use case, and I'm curious: Is your primary thought here to have a 12v source (like a rechargeable battery) powering the jacket as you walk away from the bike mounted transmitter? I ask because the connection is broken when power is removed from the controller (the part that powers the jacket). Connection/bond is resumed when power is applied to the controller, and the remote is turned back on. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

@@GeezeRider Ok, Thanks for the info. I hope was searching for heated gear and this was the brand I was interested in. Came across your video to see if they had problems with reliability. I'm not familiar with heated gear and was just gathering info to see if I wanted to invest in it. Watching your videos just led me to questions of curiosity more than anything. Now I have a better understanding and it didn't dawn on me that leaving the bike with the gear on requires unplugging from the power. Stupid me. LOL. So I see why you asked about an alternate power source. And no I wasn't thinking that way just an error on my part of unplugging from the bike. Thanks for your help.

Hello Markstorm5629, Not off the top of my head. Could you provide the manufacturer, model, and approximate age of your jacket? Thanks, -GeezeRider

It is a gerbing jacket. Compatable with the gerbing wireless controller that you reviewed. I have the standard 3 jackdls jacket, gloves and accessories. And a 4th one actually smaller than an male audio jack. It is located in the same pocket with the other 3. Thanks for what ever you can come up with. Ps jacket was purchased 1 month ago.

If you click on the jacket wiring diagram in this link ( gerbing.com/products/gerbing-12v-dual-zone-permanent-temperature-controller ) you'll see it labeled as a "Bluetooth controller" connection. There is some additional text below the name of the connection, but it's too small to read and becomes blurred when magnified. The best I'm able to make out is that this is a legacy connection from days gone by. Possibly used for temperature regulation? There's almost no information out there about this connection. My guess is that it was more cost effective to keep manufacturing it this way than to change it, but again, that's just a guess. If your curiosity persists, you could contact Gerbing support and see what additional information they might be able to provide. Please reply back here with your findings if you do, as others might also benefit. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello joescalia6175, Thanks for your comment. Could you please provide a link to an article, or an information release from Michelin, that addresses the 2023 redesign? I'm sure people considering purchasing them would find it helpful. Thanks, Ride safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Michelin commander three touring second generation review That’s the name of the TH-cam video

From sinister speed co.

th-cam.com/video/nKwM2On7QVw/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared Sorry just figured out how to do this

Hello joesscalia6175, Thank you very much for posting that link! His video was made 11/16/2022. In the video he states he got some "test tires" from Michelin a couple months before the video was made. It will be interesting to see if anyone states they have issues with a tire that has a date code after 11/16/2022. Unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge Michelin themselves has never publicly acknowledged that there was an issue, nor offered any remediation without jumping through significant hoops (i.e. no recall). Someone correct me if you've found a Michelin press release or NTSA advisory to the contrary. I went out to Michelin's site, and can't find any reference to the current offering of the Commander III Touring being "2nd Generation" or that there was any change AFTER a specific date. The only reference on their site ( www.michelinman.com/motorcycle/tires/michelin-commander-iii-touring ) is under the "Enhanced Tread Design" section of the product descriptions where they state: "Enhanced Tread Design- Michelin enhanced the front tread pattern of two MICHELIN Commander III Touring tires in order to reduce noise and the possibility of vibration. These changes, which consist of longer intermediate rain grooves, are designed to give a more uniform and comfortable ride to the wide variety of motorcycles using the popular sizes 130/60B19 61H and 130/80B17 65H." That really isn't a direct admission that THEIR tire, the previous version of the Commander III Touring was defective, nor are they outwardly offering any remediation for buyers of the previous design, but; it's a step in the right direction. I have reached out to Michelin via their review/comments section on their website for the specific date code on which the revised tire went into production. While this won't help anyone stuck with an older tire, if they provide this information it will help those making a purchase now and forward avoid the older date codes in which the issue was prevalent. Thanks again, Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello Camouflage, Thank you for sharing your experience. If you are able, can you please post if you bought the Cruiser or Touring version of the tire, the size, the date code on the tire, and when you bought them? That information will help others make a more informed decision about a potential purchase. Ride safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello @621stc, Thank you for providing your experience. If you could provide the sizes and date codes for your tires, especially the front, and the approximate date you purchased them, it might help others to zero in on the date range(s) for which the "vibration" is not present. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello russellwooster2960. The reviewed unit is for 12 Volt systems. Assuming you meant moped ("noped"), and you have a 12 Volt system, I would check your load/charging capacity before installation. I would also recommend turning the charger off between charges (see reference to the rocker switch on the charger in the video); and also avoid charging the phone on the moped if the battery level is below 25%. Unless you are able to determine otherwise from the specs for your moped, it might be safest to limit usage. Additionally, a friendly reminder to use an inline fuse if attached directly to the battery, or a fused accessory circuit on the vehicle. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello RevJRJJr, Thank you for sharing your experience. Especially for providing detailed and specific mileage comparisons, as well as your comments in regard to traction. That information will be valuable to others in making their purchasing decisions. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello NDpendentConnection, Form factor is definitely a prime consideration, and you've already called that out in your question. If space is limited than Warm and Safe is the way to go between them and Gerbing. Both companies are solid. Warm and Safe has been in business since about 1995. About 28 years, so definitely not a "new kid on the block", and their products have been well and positively reviewed by many retailers and purchasers. However, if space is not as big a consideration I would point out that Gerbing has been in business since about 1978. About 45 years. They continually develop new products, and have a reputation for quality. This can often mean similar classes of products might be a bit more expensive from Gerbing than others. But, if I'm only going to buy 1 heated jacket in 15 or 20 years, I'd try to get the best product possible. The Warranties on Heat Controllers are worth reviewing carefully before purchase - From the Warm and Safe website: "If it fails due to faulty parts or manufacturing within 3 YEARS of your purchase we WILL replace or fix it." From the Gerbing website: "For over 45 years, Gerbing has been the industry leader in developing heating technologies and has earned the trust of our customers by standing by the quality and performance of our products. We continue to stand by our products because we know our customers rely on them for comfort and safety during the harshest conditions. We currently offer three different warranties: Lifetime Warranty: Our Gerbing Heating Elements & Microwire Heating System are protected forever under our lifetime guarantee. One-Year Warranty: All non-electrical components of our clothing are warrantied for one year after purchase. In addition, our temperature controllers, electrical plugs, connectors, solder joints, and connection cables are covered for one year. 90-Day Warranty: Batteries and chargers are warrantied for 90 days after purchase." So, if all considerations wound up being equal for my particular needs, I'd probably go with Gerbing. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

@@GeezeRider Thank you sir.. Keep

Hello Jeremy, Unfortunately I don't have any firsthand experience with highly durable heated socks that would be required for construction. I would suggest you reach out to "The Warming Store" for a recommendation, or research offerings from the likes of Milwaukee or Carhart which specialize in products for heavy outdoor use.

Hello Lou, We're sorry you weren't able to readily find the information you were looking for. Please look at the comment I pinned at the top of the comments for this video where I relate my experiences with these tires, which include findings from a contiguous 2,100 mile round trip. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello kd, Everyone's needs and personal situations are different: Insulated vs. non-insulated footwear, fitment, etc. This is why I always recommend people spend a bit of time before purchases to determine what they'll be doing/wearing 90% of the time. My heated insoles behave differently (better) in some of my other boots that don't fit as tight, though I still prefer the heated socks if I'm not going to be walking a lot. I'm glad that you were fortunate to have the insoles work for your use case. The sanitary aspect of heated gear is something the manufacturers and sellers gloss over, if they bother to cover it at all. Most people aren't able to accurately learn about the care requirements of their specific heated hear until they get them and are able to read the garment care tags. Yet another reason to try to check them out in person before purchase if you can. That being said, insoles generally can't be effectively "washed". You can wipe them down with some kind of anti-microbial cleaner. Generally the ones that indicate they are color safe are gentle enough not to degrade anything, but I would never submerse an insole. There's usually a sock between the insole and your foot, so the heated insoles generally won't get funky as quickly as a heated sock. You can also spray some athletes foot spray (not powdered) in your boots before reinserting the insoles, and after use. This will help keep things fresh. Kind of like bowling shoes. Now, addressing your question about heated socks: Regardless of the instructions on the care tag, the heated socks should generally be hand washed only, with care to keep the connector out of the water. Woolite or some other gentle care cleaner is good, with a LOT of rinsing to ensure you got all the soap out. Air dry, and you want to try to keep the sock open when drying. Some round perforated tubing with no sharp edges, etc. will help speed up the drying process and avoid mold, mildew, etc. Again, regardless of the instructions on the care tag, I personally would not machine dry ANY heated garment. This includes using a boot dryer for heated socks or pant legs unless the boot dryer (or whatever you're trying to use) can push unheated air. I air dry only. I never put my heated gear in a clothes dryer. Period. Jackets can dry on a hanger with special attention to keep arms open to let air in. Pants can dry hanging upside down on one of those hangers that has the spring clips, with special attention to keep the legs open to let air in. This obviously requires a lot of planning so your heated gear is clean, dry and ready to go when you need it. As mentioned in the videos, a thin layer between your heated gear and you is a good sanitary/hygienic measure which can extend the wear time between cleanings. This is especially true with heated footwear. A really thin moisture wicking sock liner can help keep those heated insoles or socks from getting funky too quickly, without adding additional bulk. Note that heated gloves, which are very difficult to clean, can also benefit from some very thin glove liners. It bears repeating- As noted above, you never want to submerse any of the connectors on any heated garment. Even if you spray the connectors out with contact cleaner, WD-40, etc., afterward. There's still a big chance of corrosion and deposits left behind in the connector, or water intrusion in the cable, that can affect power draw, and longevity. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Thanks for the reply back . I listened well !!@@GeezeRider

​@@GeezeRider super helpful 😊

Hi Al, thank you for the compliment. I'm glad we were able to help you out. You might also be interested in browsing some of our other heated gear videos at th-cam.com/play/PLGs6waMVjfJNKCQPRcanLPb1OvFdLXORR.html Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello Vinh, I'm glad you found the information helpful. If you're buying the socks for outdoor work, you're in luck because along with the heated socks themselves, their battery and controller technology has come a long way in the past few years. I'd suggest buying battery operated heated socks that are designated as workwear. The sock liners meant for motorcycle use won't hold up as long as those. I'd also suggest buying extra batteries. 8 hours is doable on a low setting, but having spare batteries will ensure you won't run out of power and also allow you to run them at a higher setting which runs the batteries down much quicker. I'd also suggest if it is within your finances to buy at least 1 extra pair of the same heated socks. Even when using a sock liner for hygienic purposes, the same pair of socks worn 5 or more days in a row will be less than fresh. Continued use also compresses the cushioning. If you buy 2 pair of the exact same socks you can use all your batteries on your spar pair while the first pair is in the wash. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello Craig, thank you for your comments. Those are good points. Over the course of the 3 winters from the publishing of the video, the unit would return to the setting it was on when powered off. The caveat is that if you turned the remote off, then the unit would revert back to the lowest setting (the lowest before the remote clicks off). If you didn't use the remote, but instead just used the buttons on the unit, it would always power back up to the last setting. The remote doesn't draw a lot, so if your charging system doesn't benefit from turning the unit off/down before turning off the bike, you could leave the remote at the current setting like I have been doing, and then it resumes at that setting when you start the bike/reconnect power to the unit. I hope this information covers your concerns. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello 70DMac, glad you found the video helpful. If you're going to wear them with insoles, and/or with thick or multiple layers of socks, I'd suggest going up to the 11's. They really are that narrow. Ride Safe, Namaste. -Geezerider.

Hello Buddy, While it is not unusual for a shop to have a tire that is 6 months to a year old in their inventory, you are correct that the age of the tire has an impact on overall lifespan. It is not merely the number of miles put on the tire, but also includes UV light exposure, and extremes of hot/cold. Obviously proper tire inflation and wheel alignment also are factors. That being said, I would not feel good about paying full price for a 2 and 1/2 year old tire. Especially the Commander 3 Touring which is known to have had issues during that timeframe. My personal take on the issue for both my bike and my vehicles is that I'll ask the shop how old the tires are based on the date code (not just how long they've had them in their inventory, which is the usual response you get). If it's more than a year I'll either ask for them to be discounted, or call another shop and find someone who has newer tires. To my way of thinking, a 5% or 10% discount does not cover the lost life of mounting a 2.5 year old tire. You have to do the mental calculus for your particular situation to determine what's best for you, but if that shop thinks a 2.5 year old tire should be sold at full price, and they claim "it's just fine", I'd look for another shop with which to do business. Just my two cents on the subject. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Please let us know how your case with Michelin progresses. I'm sure others would find that valuable information. Thanks. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

Hello Jeff, thank you for your detailed comment. A dealer installing a 1 year old tire is not bad in my opinion. This is typical of what they'll get from the supply chain at the moment. If it were 2 or 3 years old, I'd say you'd have to weigh tire lifespan against any "deal" they might be offering (treadwear is not the only determining factor in tire life.). The droning noise could be the old rear tire riding down of the wear bars. It also could be the somewhat common complaint heard for certain C3 Touring front tires. Often described as a buzzing or droning noise. Since your back tire needs to be replaced anyway, 50% of the diagnostic will be performed when that's swapped for new. As for the suggested change in tire size, I would suggest proceeding with caution. The manufacturer specifies a specific size for a reason. The bike is meant to run a particular MPH/KPH in each gear relative to tire size. A larger diameter tire will have the bike going just a little faster in a given gear. This might not sound like an annoyance at first, but the bike will have slightly different resulting shift points compared to what you're used to. Yes, this is a bit "nit picky", but it isn't a 1:1 replacement and you should go into it with eyes open. I might suggest, as an example, seeing if Pirelli has your size in their "Night Dragon" tire. I'd go that route before mounting some other size. Ride Safe, Namaste -GeezeRider

Hello John, I haven't done the research for a 2023 Goldwing so I don't feel confident speaking to that, but I know there are a ton of Goldwing forums out there where you may be able to get that specific guidance. I'd suggest starting there, and maybe checking the Fortnine TH-cam channel for Ryan's tire reviews. He's VERY thorough [although he seemed to have missed this whole C3 Touring front tire issue :-) ]. Ride safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

@@GeezeRiderten thousand opinions

Hello Bret, Yes, I still like the tires. It'll be interesting to see how much mileage I get out of them. The performance so far is on par with the Dunlop Elite's I had on that they replaced. Ride safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider

How many R1s have u owned 😂

Hello Ash, In order for the unit to charge it will have to be connected to a 12 volt power source. That could be directly to your bikes battery or another 12 volt circuit intended for accessories. Ride Safe, Namaste. -GeezeRider