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From memory it’s either a Phillips head or a torx bit. There is a plastic cover that needs to be removed. This can be done with a small flat head screwdriver

Sorry mate, this was on of my earlier videos. If you watch the whole thing I do show where all the bolts are. I’ve made sure my later videos have better detail

Fingers crossed once you check the inlet manifold gasket it fixes your issues 🤞

You only got 45k miles, they really haven't lasted. For smaller motor that is not exactly powerful you'd expect them to last a long time.

Thank you 🙏

Good to know, thanks for the tip!

Thanks for that! Makes sense now

I found them online, just check for fitment

From memory it’s a 10mm

@@BushKayakersCampingAustralia 😂😂😂

That’s a great result!

I can't remember the location, however try moving the shifter manually one way all to the end. Then try and start the car. If it starts it should be in park, if not then it will probably be in drive. I hope that helps

Ok thanks for letting me know. I just straightened it and popped it back on.

To my knowledge it takes a while since only a small volume of fluid is pumped out of the CSC. I disconnected the hose from the reservoir, put a bleeding syringe attached to some clear tube down and tightened a hose clamp around it to attempt to pull a vacuum and extract any air that might have been trapped in the master cylinder. Then bleed the CSC as per normal procedure.

I bleed it until the new liquid came through the line. And there were no more bubbles. After that a few pushed on the clutch peddle and it all came back to me.

You’re welcome!

I can assure you that it wasn't moving from that position. It did feel pretty solid when I put it in there and made sure it just wouldn't move.

Using a cotter is a good idea as well.

Have you tried plugging in a diagnostic tool? I wonder if it is just a coincidence that it started after the battery was replaced. You could always try unplug the battery, wait a few mins the reconnect to see if the same thing still happens. Good luck!

@@modaufygarage yeah done that for a few days, for a week it was algood, then I used it for work then it started doing the same thing again

@@jeffersonneeson1535 maybe next time it's running, try and move some wiring looms around and see if anything changes. You might be able to pin point it that way.

@@modaufygarage thanks

Thanks

@@theorysbox I found a seller on eBay that was 3D printing the Subaru ones. It was a perfect fit.

@@modaufygarage Thank you sir!

It sounds like you’ll need to replace the gasket.

The ones I removed were the factory ones, so I just made sure I put the new ones in the same direction.

Not sure what they are. I have seen numbers for the sliding pin bolts to be 27nm or thereabouts. Basically I did them up then that little bit extra. Just do not try and over tighten them.

@@modaufygarage cheers thankyou so much 👍👍

Mackay rubber

😂that would be good if it did, maintenance at the click of a button

That seems like a weird problem. have you tested the intake manifold gasket?

@@modaufygarage Hi, thanx for your quick reply. I did a smoke test and found smoke emanating only from one fuel injector to head interface, so i'd hope it should smoke thru the intake mani. gasket as well if it were leaking. Also, I dont think I would be getting consistent (not sure why they are so exact) negative fuel trims if I had an air leak. The o2 sensor seems to be working ( I put in a new one, but car was vibrating even with the old one), the fuel trims do fluctuate and my short term fuel trim is good, always b/w -5/5%.

​@@AH-ky7xb hello did you end up fixing mine is same

@@happymanasfksubaru2846 hi, missed your msg, I narrowed my issue down to a slightly burned valve in cyl1.

😂😂

You’re welcome. Awesome! Thanks for the torque specs. That’s weird that your had to grind off 3mm for a ‘replacement’ part. I recently did the front suspension on my falcon and the top strut mount didn’t even fit, so I reverted back to the originals.

Thanks for the feedback! 😊

@@modaufygarage please add more of such videos for major services, different work you do on the bike , because i own one and need to learn from you example - Major Kit Service includes : *Washer *Air Filter *Top Cover Packing *Spark Plugs * FORK LUBRICATION *BRAKE BLEEDING *RADIATOR (COOLANT REPLACE).

These cars are getting older now so much parts might get harder to find.

@@JohnBradley-y9y I hope that’s on a race track 😂 have you done a diagnostic scan?

@@modaufygarage it is diappointing as speedo reads 240km/h. Will get only. The world has gone soft on us, a soft man if no longer hard

Lots more mud!

It was a case of brain and mouth not working together 😂😂 thanks

I checked the gearbox oil afterwards and it all seems fine. Not much came out of the radiator.

I don’t have an FG but if I did and it was leaking I’d do a video for you

@@modaufygarage No worries we need to keep these beasts on the road otherwise these younger mob will be weak and bleak. I will nominate you for Aussie Story thanks

@@JohnBradley-y9y we most definitely do need to keep them on the road.

Sorry, I didn't write the part numbers down when I did this and I went to the auto parts store to get them. I looked up the part for this model focus and the gates part no seems to be 5PK705SF. I think the 5 refers to how many lines there are in the belt which should match up to the harmonic balancer. I hope that helps

It was so much easier just getting the sway bar out of the way.

Do you know what time on the video I mentioned that?

I remember now. The original ford rubber in the top strut mount wasn’t a solid unit. There were what seemed like air gaps in the rubber. The aftermarket rubbers are a solid unit. I forgot to compare them in the video.

Have a look and check to make sure your cable is connected properly.