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Yeah, we need more axes, even on the base. I agree.

Thank you for your sentiment 🙂

Yeah, I'm not using camera based solutions anymore, because both this and PC camera straight into opentrack did funny thing when I blinked my eyes! 🙂 I went for ArUco marker on a headband, not perfect, but works better for me: th-cam.com/video/YQ2asSSeGho/w-d-xo.html

Thank you! With WinWing, the prices for combos are quite good and you can also mix and match to some degree. I have to say that STECS bases are least interesting from all the other bases. I wish it had more latched switches. But the throttle is not just the base, of course. 🙂 STECS works well for me.

There are two round buttons on the STECS base, these have short travel, but very obvious action with semi-loud higher-pitched click. Buttons on the STEM (A1-2, B1-5, C1) have a bit more play, probably a tad longer action than the buttons on the main base (but still quite short) and also clear action, this time with lower pitched softer click. K-switches, good action, but unnecessarily heavier for the middle click. All the buttons are good, you know when you pressed them, they give you enough resistence, so you don't press them accidentally. Not sure what "normal keyboard" means for you, but I hope I answered the question. They don't feel like keyboard.

@@dcsunscripted This is very helpful, you definitely answered my question :) I was hoping the case is how you described it, now I am definitely going for the STECS. Thank you for the videos and comments, you are brilliant at communicating!

It's a powerful tool for sure. It works for me with this basic-ish configuration. I use Touch Portal on Android tablet for more interactive needs and while not perfect it works great for me. th-cam.com/video/3rL1EsVrLeI/w-d-xo.html

Yes, I also agree. In EU, Mini is for 249€ and Standard for 346€. For around 100 euros you get STEM with quite a lot of new buttons, switches and encoders - and a lot of accessory (detents, modules with more 5-way hats). This makes a lot of sense. MAX adds the holder and ATEM module (6 buttons + 5-way hat/encoder combo) for additional 60 euros. So in terms of just controls, it doesn't make that much sense. But some people appreciate the holder as well and plan to use it. If you just buy the bigger base plate and the holder, you're on MAX price tag anyway. For me the STANDARD was the sweet spot, so I agree with your sentiment. ;-)

I had Gladiator Kosmosima Premium before buying this one, and I liked it quite a lot. With STECS, I didn't consider the options below STANDARD because the additional modules and detents are not included with MINI and MINI Plus, so STANDARD was the first natural option for me. The aft mounted STEM has its cons, but nothing serious, the additional switches, encoders and buttons are good value.

@@dcsunscripted yes I thought about the MINI but once you buy the extra bits like detents or switches, it’s better just getting the standard one. The cool thing is that if one day I want more buttons, I can just get the front bracket from the MAX and put whatever module on it I’m curious to see the Thrustmaster Ava reviews later this month Also, maybe some surprises at FSExpo this June

@@falmatrix2r I wanted some additional panels because there is never enough switches and axes. I didn't like what VKB has to offere, the NXT modules do not impress me. Virpil panels look much better, but are also more expensive, and I'd one max one of them because I don't want so many pieces on my desk (I don't have dedicated simpit). And no panel is great for everything. In the end I decided to postpone any additinal hardware (beyond stick+throttle+pedals I have) and use tablet with Touch Portal and DCS-COINS plugin instead - short demo in this video: th-cam.com/video/3rL1EsVrLeI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gS3uJL1EWv3OqzEa There are other tablet based options, MATRIC, and many others. Similarly you can use Streamdeck and similar devices. It's not perfect, sure, but it's cost-effective when you have a device like that already - and very flexible, although it requires some customization. I like it and like playing with it. But - the additional devices don't make me a better pilot. 🙂

@@dcsunscripted yeah Virpil has nice stuff but it’s expensive Would be nice if they make more STECS modules in the future I’m sure they’ll make a V2 in the future, more refined The way I did to have more buttons on my x52 was using modifiers or using the 3 modes I could configure in the Saitek app I think Streamdeck is nice because you can label everything

Thank you very much, sir! Be sure to watch the other two parts as well. 🙂

​@@dcsunscripted Still watching the end of this one; will do. Depending on the other two parts, I'll be getting this or the VPC Mongoose as an upgrade to my own TWCS. I'm interested to see if the stiction improves over time; re-greasing the Thrustmaster was a huge improvement.

@@GtsAntoni1 Stiction for STECS is a minor problem, I just "exercise" it when I start the session and it's gone. Stiction when it's stationary for a minute or so is really quite minor, more or less nitpicking. Second part of the review may give you some ideas about this vs VPC. But if you like switchable detents idea and can stand (or get used to) thumb TDC (ministick) then STECS may be for you.

Díky a taky zdravím! STECS je super, ale nějaká osa by se hodila, tady má Virpil navrch. Ale když jste viděli i předchozí díly, víte všechno podstatné.

My exp with VKB today "I guess the proper name for the switch in question is a "Trigger switch" yes? now all I need is how to replace the switch i can find nothing on youtue on our VKB's forum. I'm not too pleased on how VKB expects me to change the trigger without instructions is that too much to expect??? how about you take all my VKB products in trade for a WINWING or VPRILE ...,.. ARE YOU GOING TO STAND BEHIND YOUR youtube WHAT!...   AT 74 I THINK I CAN HANDLE REMOVING A BUNCH OF SCREWS IF THAT WHAT YOU WANT ME TO DO PROBABLY CROSS-THREAD THEM AND RUIN THE THROTTLE" coulden type I so pissed VKB wrong choice

Thanks man, this video was like delivering a baby... I'd probably got used to the castle hat on the front as well eventually, but the switches there are each under a different finger so I didn't need that. As for the mapping, I'm still barely through half of my planes after seven months! 😀

You have to lower the multiplier actually. But then you'll have to twist the encoder much more. There is no way to make the "axis step" smaller than the encoder click. That's why encoder to axis is not good for precision-critical axes. Elevation may be ok-ish, especially on the pinkie encoder which is easier to rotate. See this video how to do it: th-cam.com/video/GB-pf6dEICM/w-d-xo.html

I got used to a bit tighter throttle - of course, not too much so it doesn't move around the desk 🙂 - and I always change the tightness when switching to split setup for propeller. If you hold the throttle there for a few secs, it should help as the damping/stiction appears quite quickly if the throttle doesn't move. But I don't know how variable this is between the units. As for the "triggers", I decided to use the back ones for countermeasures (either with a thumb or simply by moving the hand and pressing it with other fingers) and the ones on the front for target unlock and lock (the right one), because I don't like the press action of the TDC (OTS). With a modifier I use the front ones consistently for flight clock and stopwatch (where available), but that's probably too much information. ;-)

I'm not sure how it works on various devices, on PC desktop I can still see it. It is there more for information, you should find it with Play Store.

@@dcsunscriptedyeah i had a gander and have found a different one Smoothtrack, just need to figure out how to stop my head shaling in game.

I also have VKB Gladiator Kosmosima Premium - and that's an incredible value for its price, I'd say. And yes, it covers the rudder with its twist (not perfect, especially for warbirds or helos, but usable). I have the stick since the last April and I plan to review it some time later, so it will be kinda long-term review already. 🙂Especially the thumb side hat (the one which is button in non-premium model) is a bit imprecise, but the rest of the buttons and hats are great. I still couldn't find proper use for the ministick, so it's used more as a POV anyway. I don't like how it's tougher to push it than to pull it (also the spring/return action is different from push and pull)... but in overall, I like it a lot. But more on that some time later. ;-)

The triggers are only buttons - so you can use them as left and right brake, but not as axes (analog), only as buttons - which typically works in such a way that they apply more and more power to the brakes during a short period. This makes it semi-usable when you "pulse" the buttons (this way you can keep the brake level in some area), but it is not as precise as real toe-brakes, or any analog replacement. STECS will not really help you with either the rudder, nor the toe-brakes. Also, if you want to use the triggers as toe-brakes anyway (even with button actions), you can't do split-throttle to have RPM (prop) and throttle in various positions. That makes using the triggers side by side impossible. They will always be each in different position.

Thanks! Back-light may be a deal breaker for some, and it can be useful, but I don't miss it.

Let me know what you think in a comment when you test it. What bothers you, what you need to get used to, etc. 🙂

I'm a fan of flying sims on and off for way over 20 years. I even remember Su-27 Flanker game that was the far ancestor of DCS! Nice to see more people in flying simming. STECS is great, despite a few reservations I love it - and it's always important to embrace what we have and use it to its maximum. Standard is a great option, good value, great choice!

same here. FedEx is delivering today 😊

Yeah, renaming is super useful, both for atypical keyboards and for giving the HOTAS modifiers reasonable names. As for the car pedals for the rudder... these are two separate axes and there are a few problems: 1) you have to make sure you absolutely don't engage the other when using one, as it would cause big spikes in the output 2) bigger problem - it will be possible to set one pedal properly, but not the other half that covers 50-100 values (starting "from the middle"). It's not possible with saturation/slider/invert and even if you set user curve starting at 50, there is still a jump to 0 in the 0 position. So I'm afraid it's not possible. I'd probably go for anything else (twist or something on the throttle) for the rudder instead. As for toebrakes - no problem there, that's a good usage. Perhaps you'll find a hack how to do it, but I couldn't figure out the "other half" of the action. It is possible to cover the whole range with half the physical axis, but it seems impossible to cover half the range with one axis. At least not for both halves.

If you're happy with CM2 and it's not breaking for you, just keep it and wait. I'd not buy STECS if my TWCS (much weaker than CM2) didn't betray me. STECS is not a leap from Virpil's throttle (in my humbe opinion), although currently I prefer it - more on that in my next review part coming soon. However, it may just be my bias, of course. ;-)

@@dcsunscripted I had two twcs fail on me I waited a while for the vkb throttle to come out but I purchased a used CM2. It's been I love the amount of hats and buttons etc I just want to try out the vkb throttle... It's hard to see in the video is the right side where the analogue stick and hats switches flat? Or is it an angle outwards a bit ?

@@abbyabz6940 I'm not sure I understand exactly, but generally, the right side of the right handle is mostly flat in the direction where it travels. The thumbstick portion is slanted just a bit towards up - but it's hardly noticable (I only see it now when you asked). It should be clear that BRK is "higher" (more to the right) than RADIO or OP EXEC modules, which actually works well. Feel free to ask more, if I didn't answer your question.

I'm glad you like your STECS. I like mine a lot too and many of my reservations are more observations than problems. ;-)

I don't play MSFS, so I have no idea, however, VKB Discord has a channel for MSFS as well, so perhaps try there: discord.com/channels/1009945611023429804/1012102978997604422

Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to say you should stick with your Virpil CM3 when you're happy... then reading you have Winwing as well, so now I'm thinking maybe you're a collector. ;-) I'm not (yet) making the same mistake like with my guitars, having more of them and not playing them. 🙂 I hope the STECS will last for many years.

@@dcsunscriptedHaha, save yourself and don't go down the collector rabbit hole with another hobby! I think I'm a lost cause with the flight sim hardware though...it's like Pokemon, gotta collect 'em all.

Thank you very much for your encouraging words. I tried not to repeat everybody else's review. 🙂

If you're OK with the thumb stick - which is a bigger disruption for many (not for me anymore) - and you don't need any rudder or brake axis on the throttle, then the encoders as axis are not such a big deal. Yes, they are not that precise, but some axes are OK even when not super fine-grained. E.g. antena elevation doesn't need to have so many steps. Sure I'd prefer true axis, but in the end it's not a deal breaker. If the encoders are the only problem, just think of the axes you can serve with them and don't worry about it. If it's one of many problems, then sure, they may be another thing why not to buy it.

The obvious answer for the most versatile (and ergonomic) solution is the STECS throttle from VKB + The Panel 3 from Virpil! That's what I've got and I feel like I've got it all!!

@@b34k97 No panel would add a zoom axis slider to the handle and Harrier style nozzle lever right next to the handle though ;) CM3 ftw haha

@@pjslon9219 I've owned the CM3. Sold it for the STECS and no regrets. I don't need an axis for zoom, those triggers under the finger work well for Zoom In/Out in DCS, and I have the palm trigger a reset zoom. It's quick and quite easy to press. i've had 6 different throttles in as many years, and STECS is the best for me. While this review hit every single negative of the STECS and described it really well, they're all pretty minor when weighed against its major benefit. It's detent system that make this a winner for me. I fly in DCS, MSFS, IL2, and sometimes some space games... so being able to switch both physical detents and the electronic configs between an F16, A320, A Center detent Space Ship, and detent-less warbirds, in less than 30 seconds... it's amazing.

@@b34k97 Thanks for the detailed reply! If I ever get to like detents, I'll give STECS a go! Although it would be STECS 2 or somthing as I still must have a Harrier nozzle axis - I love that plane (and zoom axis is also much faster than buttons). Detents for me personally are at the bottom of priorities - but I do get that we are different and your point on quick change system is a good one!

Pinkie encoder as axis is the better one as it is easier to make longer moves there, so it can be set to 65 distinct positions (~3 rotations) and it's reasonably precise. Also, the pinkie wheel on my TWCS had strange uneven action, kinda more stiff in the middle. Encoder is much better feel. (Shame it is not an axis, really!) I wish you all the best with your STECS, if you know what to expect you should be happy with it!

Much appreciated! The thing l liked about the axis wheel was just being able to quickly move it around and have the absolute value sent to the game. As long as the encoder-turned-axis pinkie wheel on the STECS is reasonably responsive, Ill be happy@@dcsunscripted

What Output is selected? I have freetrack 2.0 Enhanced and it works fine with that. Not sure what else needs to be done. You don't even see Track IR column in DCS? If you do see it, isn't it Disabled (right click on its header to see it)?

@@virgo47 I do not see the track ir column. How do i do that ?

@@refikcandevseli3329 If you don't then no Track IR is detected by DCS. That's why I asked about the Output setting in opentrack as well. Also did you Start the tracking in opentrack?

My TWCS had twitchy throttle axis (had to spray the pot every other day) and broken slew after around a year. STECS was a massive upgrade. Yes, I miss the paddles (spring loaded axis) and pinkie axis... but otherwise I'd not go back at all. Shown shortly at 8:31, I use middle finger MB2 5-way hat for zoom - up/down for out/in and press to reset it to normal. I actually use the hats on MB1 and 2 mostly for views, various snap views, etc. Not sure why I like snap views, even with my (admittedly no so good) head-tracking. STECS is great and I even got used to the slew on the thumb, no problem for me anymore. Use push (away) for up and practice with it a bit and it will click very soon. The amount of hats and buttons just on the grips is much bigger than with TWCS. But the throttle axis quality and precision is beyond comparison - at least with my old TWCS unit. Sure, some things are missing. There is no way you can have reasonable rudder on this throttle. But paired with Gladiator Kosmosima with twist... I'm lazy to use my TWCS pedals, not to mention they are narrow and not that good/precise either. Buying STECS without being able to replace the things like rudder is probably not the best decision. But if there is no showstopper, it is an incredible piece of HW. I love the feeling of it under my hand and ergonomy flaws are rather minor in my everyday use.

@@dcsunscripted Thank you for your long and detailed answer. I had a TWCS lubbed with Nyogel 767A so I had no issues at all, also have a Gladiator pro and T-Rudder by VKB I was so hyped by the stecs and the waiting for years that I took for granted that It would be a great improvement... so that I even sold the TWCS before stecs arrived. The stecs mini plus didn't come with the set of custom buttons so I only have the 4 way one, the first disappointing when I opened the box; I thought it would be included. I take the opportunity to say that if anyone sell any of these, please write me :D . I don't see the point of the two encoder wheels, as axis they aren't smooth at all so as zoom are unsuitable. And I find annoying the placement of all the knobs. Overall, I try the stecs two days and I'm kind of disappointed. Thank you, your message encourages me to begin the adaptation process.

@@OceanManu I see now. Nyogel was for action I assume, I didn't have problem with TWCS action as much as with the jumpy pot (sensor) - I used contact spray for that regularly. As for Mini Plus option, yeah, it lacks those add-ons, but you can at least switch the modules you've got if that helps, although it doesn't bring more actions. Missing accessory saves the money, but for me the modules were important for initial setup, and detents are also cool, I switch them after a few days when I go to another plane. You can still buy the accessory, although the final price with shipping can be annoying. But the throttle action is superb. Encoders can be used for less essential/precise axes (I don't like it, but that's how I use it). You're well equipped on the joystick and pedals side, good for you. 👍 Although their pedals don't have brake axis. I actually use the thumbstick with a mod button as a brake axis, crazy, but it works OK. 🙂

Good points, I didn't want to go into details, but I tried that as well and didn't see big difference. Plus, if you make the pulse shorter, it will not make the events getting to the computer that much faster, there seems to be still some pause (not sure whether that is adjustable). And shorter pulse also makes up/down action even worse, but perhaps I should not talk about that anymore because encoder is totally unsuitable for up/down (inc/dec) actions, even more so than for axis. About no lag for axis, I suspected it is processed in the device, so I knew why it doesn't have any lag - but it was a good not when later shown how it is re-introduced if you want both (encoder and axis action with the same config).

My answer is only theoretical, because I don't play space sim at all, so you have to make a qualified decision. 🙂With STECS you can't use thumb for anything else, when you're using the thumbstick. On the other hand, there are still buttons on the front, quite plenty of them - for other fingers. With Kosmosima, you have triggers and one button for index, but no hat, nothing for midfinger and one pinkie button. With throttle you have much more, encoders, 2 5-way hats and some buttons + two triggers (single-stage only, of course). On the other hand, Kosmosima can be setup in such a way that you controll all 3-axis (including grip) with the grip itself, so fingers can do a lot. And on the thumb you still have 3 hats + ministick/hat (with Premium version) and some buttons. Also, springs can be removed, so it doesn't autocenter, if that may be handy. STECS thumbstick always autocenters, of course. Also the travel of thumbstick and omnithrottle is incomparable. Omni will give you much more precision. STECS gives you just one axis (technically dual, but that's probably irrelevant for space) on the whole hand movement. Some people may also struggle with the thumb orientation, especially as it changes. Thumbstick precision is nowhere to the Gladiator stick gimbal and you can also drift off axis as you swivel the grip. I thought money can be a factor too, but then I realized we should probably compare STECS Mini with omni-Gladiator+Kosmosima, so money is probably not a factor.

@@dcsunscripted Thanks for the informed reply.

Omni throttle is best for space sims. That being said I use Omni throttle and a standard throttle and map the standard throttle to my speed limiter and cruise control, this causes the standard throttle to behave as your main throttle when you hit the cruise control.

STECS is a viable option for space sims, but as mentioned you will want to make sure to have enough inputs on your other fingers while the thumb is using the strafing thrusters with the ministick. So either go with a Standard STECS or the mini with extra buttons and hats upgrade.

@@jukahri I was thinking STECS Max with Gladiator NXT EVO? Would that Suffice with say a game like Star Citizen? Or should I also get a STEM GNX module for the stick, or maybe even the Aviation Module that would sit behind the stick?, for all the 100s of keybinds SC has?

What is blurry and what is clear? Outside is also blurry? Is it related to Open beta 2.9 DLSS? If you mean cockpit instruments, then try Options/System and Res. of Cockpit Displays. If outside, it's about Textures/Terrain Textures.

I tried both TrackAR and AITrack, the latter with actual webcam I bought later. The results were not the same, AITrack with webcam was probably better, but still quite jittery in my setup/environment. I mention ArUco marker in my other video - that works much better for me. I have a zoom on the throttle as well, although I don't have a free axis for it, so I just use cradle in/out+push for reset. Works fine as well. I wish I had a free axis for it. :-)

Yes, this is a recent issue, the default view FOV is not right and Zoom normal does not help before you use any of the snap views. I have snapview 5 just next to Zoom normal button on my HOTAS, so I just press Snap 5 and Zoom normal in a blink of a second, and I'm done. It's annoying. Of course, it is annoying, especially if you don't know the workaround. Should be fixed with the next open-beta release, we'll see.

@@dcsunscripted Thanks, good to know it wasn't just me!

Sorry, I don't use this solution anymore, I'm using PC camera and ArUco marker instead, so I can't help with this. Maybe someone else may help you (here or on other forums/reddit), but they will definitely need more details about what you did and what is not working as expected.

I love the slider option and use it as well, yet it didn't even occur to me - that's the shape one wants! The only "problem" is that the middle point probably can't be set exactly. But it can be very closely matched by experiments - and then you just redefine the default view to match the center exactly and you're done. Genius. ;-) Why this didn't occur to me - especially when I use slider option as well? 🙂No idea. Thanks man!

@@dcsunscripted Cheers! It's not as exact, nah, but the zoom feels smoother which is a big win. I usually just try and get center to match as close as possible to the FOV I want and then set my default to the same value. I guess it could be possible to create a similar spreadsheet to calculate the curve needed to meet a specific FOV.