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The connectors are different and the wires have different colors. The 2 sensors look the identical but I don't know if they are built exactly the same inside. Check on eBay to see some pictures.

Sadly, the mechanical engineers did not included an access to the fuel filter and to the fuel pump assembly. These two parts are located on the top of the fuel tank without access. The fuel tank has to be lowered to replace these parts.

@mtlcarguy oh that's disappointing. I wonder then why my auto parts store pulls up an external fuel filter when I provide the VIN. It's frustrating. Thanks for getting back to me and thanks for this video. I'll be attempting to replace the plugs and coils soon. 😁

I am not sure, but if a portion of the drain petcock threads is broken, it is possible that the O-ring is stuck in the radiator drain. Assuming the locking threads are not engaged when you spin the drain petcock, the part probably slides in the stuck O-ring and is not moving out. Even if the drain petcock is broken or not, I would spray some silicone lubricant in the space between the radiator drain and the drain petcock to partially lubricate the O-ring. This should help to unstuck the O-ring and pull out the drain petcock in order to inspect it. If it is broken you can buy a new one. See hyperlinks: www.jeeppatriot.com/threads/looking-for-diy-info-on-replacing-radiator-dont-see-anything-here.342342/ www.allpar.com/threads/plastic-radiator-tank-drain.239492/

Yes, but if it takes far too much time it will overheat and eventually get damaged.

The turn signal light bulbs are powered by the electronics components located in the TIPM (+12v) . The ground contact (-) in the light bulb socket is connected to the chassis ground via a ground wire. The majority of the problems are caused by oxidized or broken contacts or wires near the light bulbs and very rarely from the TIPM.

Make sure that the steel cable that engages the cone clutch system is not slack by adjusting the linear guide wheel (@ 7:17, top left corner). This should prevent a partial contact of the two conical surfaces that would generate slipping and overheating.

This link describes the tightening (torque) procedure of the front lower control arm bolts fastened to the crossmember of a Jeep Patriot. www.jeeppatriot.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/www.jeeppatriot.com/attachments/1610082959162-png.93259/

The power windows are powered by an electronic module in the TIPM assembly. There is no specific fuse dedicated for the power windows.

The electronic smart junction box provides the current to 4 different wires that go to the HI and LOW headlamp bulbs. If the right side LED headlight bulb works without a CAN Bus decoder, Maybe there is a short to ground in the right circuit that increases the amount of current close to normal tungsten filament condition with your LED headlight installed without a CAN Bus decoder. A short to ground condition combined with the added current used by the CAN Bus decoder could trigger an abnormal signal in the smart junction box and turn this circuit off for protection. In this case, I would inspect the integrity of the electrical wiring and the connectors. I can be wrong, but, I found a problem similar to this a long time ago on a vehicle I inspected. Good luck!

The headlights are controlled directly by the TIPM without fuse. The left low beam is powered by the TIPM connector C4/pin 4 and the right low beam by the TIPM connector C5/pin 3 Check this link: www.jeeppatriot.com/threads/driver-headlight-not-working-2011-patriot.339246/

@@mtlcarguy 😊Spot on mtlcarguy....great solution... TIPM C5/pin3 was bent during replacing TIPM...no continuity to pin 1 of headlight connector. Straightened pin , all working. Thanks.

Mine is FWD. I don't know the difference. Check with your local Volvo Dealer or check with Rockauto or Davico: davicomfg.com/catalog/

There is no fuse used for the front whippers or the rear whipper. The motor of the front whippers is controlled by 3 electrical wires coming from the TIPM (C11 pin 10, C11 pin 12, C2 pin 5) and the fourth wire is a ground.

The OBD1 P28 ECU doesn't support any scan tool bidirectional control functions. I only use it to read the live data output from the ECU pin D7 (TxD/RxD Transmit Data/Receive Data Link). The bidirectional controls were introduced with the OBD2 functions in 1995.

Jeep recommends this procedure to release the fuel pressure. 1. Remove the lower rear seat cushion. 2. Remove the fuel pump module cover. 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel pump module. 4. Start and run the engine until it stalls. 5. Attempt restarting the engine until it will no longer run. 6. Turn the ignition key to OFF position. 7. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 8. Later, when the work is fully completed, if needed, use a scan tool (OBD2) to erase one or more related DTC that could have been stored.

Beautiful thank you

I do not troubleshoot electronic problems online. Mechanics use diagnosis tools and expertise to solve this kind of problem. You still have the choice to talk to another local mechanic to get a second opinion. You can also take a look at my other video about TIPM: th-cam.com/video/OvJU_un4N84/w-d-xo.html

When a Jeep Patriot sits on an even ground, the spacing that is measured can be different from an other Jeep Patriot because the rear coil springs load capacity can be different. Some models can have a higher or lower load rating and there is also a difference load capacity between old and new coil springs. So use the average of your measurement to lift the center hub and tighten the bushing to recreate your average suspension measurement. When all the work is completed and the vehicle is sitting normally, your rubber bushings should not be torn and they should last without braking early.

​@@mtlcarguy thank you friend. I appreciate you being there. Got it all done except for the lateral arm cam bolts need to be cut out. Having some extreme tire wear on the inner rear.