วีดีโอ

The orientation doesn't change the effectiveness of the seal, it's a radial seal. But yes, I put it in opposite to how the factory does it. Wasn't worth doing it all again, apologies for the confusion.

@@marks4058 I don't know which way the factory recommends, can you tell me? Spring facing out or toward the engine? thx.

@@Navillus2273 If you want to copy what the factory does, install it opposite to the way I did.

Setting correct front and rear sag will help a little bit with nose diving under brakes. Applying both front and rear brakes smoothly and evenly at the same time will also help. If you still experience excessive nose dive, you may need firmer springs, but that will come at the cost of a harsher ride.

@@marks4058 Thank you.

The Z1000 has a compression ratio of 11.8 to 1. So you can work out the expected compression by multiplying the compression ratio by "one atmosphere" at the location where you did the test (14.7psi at sea level). Example: 14.7 * 11.8 = 173psi. Typical range for this test is 140 to 210 psi. It changes a bit depending on how fast you crank the motor over during the test. It looks like your engine has excellent compression. Have you checked the condition of the spark plugs and measured the spark gap?

@@marks4058 yes i check spark plugs is a good condition its iridium spark plugs i been put them last year and also i recheck all 4 spark plug gaps is 0.8mm so speck say 0.8-0.9 mm so is good , i also redone a throttle body balance , cos i what i was thinking that throttle body clams was a bit loose i tighten them its looks reduce a vibration , now i waiting for smoke machine just in case do also smoke test , but i need to know where exactly to connect that smoke machine are is that pipe where is connected air inlet in to the air filter box ? Are i must to start engine and run that smoke test ?? Can you give to my a bit more details how todo that smoke test . Everything else is looks like so far so good .

@@viliusjonaitis3264 Depends how you will generate the smoke. If it's thick dense smoke and you can make a small amount, just spray around inlet manifold/throttle body and see if smoke gets sucked in anywhere (engine running at idle). If smoke is hard to control, zip tie a rubber glove over each velocity stack, one at a time and pump smoke into the velocity stack. Then look around the engine to see if smoke comes out anywhere between the velocity stack and the air intake port on the engine (test with the engine off). If smoke comes out the exhaust, you might need to crank the motor over a few degrees to get the valves closed on the cylinder you are testing. TH-cam has some videos for inspiration. Search "vacuum leak smoke test".

I would check things in this order: 1) Temperature of all 4 exhaust headers is equal when running. (Use IR thermometer). 2) Check sparkplugs. Measure gap, verify all have same gap and even tan color (use feeler gauge). Verify no leak around plugs. 4) Verify no vacuum leaks between airbox and cylinder intake port. (Smoke test) 5) Test compression with compression test gauge. Check valve clearance if compression is lower on cyl 3. 6) Test coils. (Check for spark, test voltage with ignition tester). Do the easy checks first be sure of vacuum integrity and spark plugs. Testing compression is faster than checking valve clearance, but you need the compression test tools (and understand the procedure). Tools might be expensive, perhaps you prefer to spend your time instead? For me, I sleep better at night if I know the clearance is OK.

I have another though too. Are you 100% certain the balancing gauges you are using are ok and you are doing the procedure correctly? Good idea to get someone else to check your work first before investigating at complicated problem that might not exist. Could save you a lot of time.

If you have adjusted the clearance in spec but can't get the balance correct, its probably a vacuum leak somewhere. Further adjustment of the clearances won't fix that. If you are 100% certain there are no vacuum leaks and have checked the sparkplugs are installed correctly then the next step is probably a bore scope inspection of the valves and valve seats, maybe do a leakdown/compression test too.

I don’t check valve clearance just thinking do now by self cos Kawasaki refuse to do that cos my bike is 19k miles so but i defiantly find something not right on valve clearance specially on cylinder 3 cos its dodgy was when i do throttle body balance , so i use yours vide to disable and check valve clearance by self . Thank you for answer mate ✨

Coolant shouldn't be able to mix with the oil via the pump because there is a drain hole between the water pump seal and the oil pump seal for the coolant to escape. In theory it could happen if the drain hole was blocked, but it seems unlikely to me. Verify if the drain hole (weep hole) is blocked. The next step would be a "leakdown test" on the radiator/coolant system. It needs to be pressurized to operating pressure then monitored with a pressure gauge to see if the pressure drops. That test will also cause visible leaking from the water pump if that seal is faulty. If it doesn't leak from the pump during a leakdown test then it's likely to be the head gasket. Also, ask yourself how you know that it's coolant mixed with the oil? Sometimes two different problems can happen at the same time. Milky oil could be due to water from another source (eg: pressure washing the bike or condensation during long term storage).

@@marks4058 The reason is that there is no coolant in the radiator.

I hope I am still riding and enjoying it at 80! Speaking of 80... This particular Z1000 just ticked over 80,000 miles on the clock and I recently did the clearances. Pretty solid engines if you stay on top of the maintenance. The valves on this one finally seem to have settled in, so not scheduling checks as frequently now.

@@marks4058 That's what you buy a Kawasaki for- the engine. Well, and the clutch. My beloved ZX1100E (GPZ) went to 40,000 miles before the shims needed a touching up, then again at 80K. Sold it with 106K and never, ever needed to do a repair of any kind, just tires and things. It was running perfectly when I sold it, and I still can't say why I did that.

9.6 Newton Meters (approximately 4kg of force on a 250mm long wrench)

Kawasaki say that the crank case must be split to make space to remove the timing chain. The sprocket is not removed. Other people recommend splitting the chain and pulling a new chain through with the old chain then joining it. I have not replaced a timing chain on a Z1000 so I can't offer much advice, except to avoid replacing the chain until there is actually a problem like poor timing alignment.

Yes, but you must be patient, methodical and have good instructions to follow (eg the service manual). It's a long job on this bike. Allow 12 work hours the first time. You need to understand how the cam chain tensioner works, correct use of a torque wrench and what the "feel" is like with feeler guages. Ideal if you can have someone else show you what a "go" and a "no-go" should feel like. Take all your measurements three times and do them again if you have doubts.

Thanks :)

@@marks4058I read that it is best to adjust the clearance to the higher tolerance, because it generally gets tighter, do you agree, or simply refer to the table in the service manual ?

@@proutproutcamenbert In practice, you will often find you are limited by both the availability of shims in small increments and your ability to measure the clearance (eg the increment of the feeler guages). So often there will only be one shim available that you can confidently say falls inside the specified range. If you do find yourself with a choice of two shims that are compatible, then yes I would choose the one that gives more clearance, particularly if you are not going to stick to the manufacturers maintenance schedule. However, don't over think it! If it's in spec, then it's in spec.

@@marks4058 Thanks ! So what you are saying is that for example if the exhaust clearance is 0.22 ( the minimum spec ) then you would not add 0.05 to be on the safe side for the next 40k ?

That's a tricky call when it's right on the edge of the acceptable range. Consider what your margin of error might be on the measurements, such as the size steps of the feeler guages. Eg 0.22 could be 0.21 or 0.23 if your guages go up in increments of 0.03, or if it was a particularly hot day when you measured. Another perspective is: You have it open anyway, if you have the shims you need on hand, might as well get it perfect while you are in there. Exhaust ports tend to get tighter over time so that's an argument for doing them now.

It has been a long time since I made this video so I can't recall which shim set I was using. It's possible I might not have had a suitable shim to get closer to the middle of the tolerance range.

@@marks4058 al right. Do you use oem shims or is there an aftermarket brand which u recommend? I appreciate the feedback 👍🏻

@@beatsmarttie5777 I don't have a favorite brand but it's always nice to find a kit with laser engraved sizes on them.

Not that time as the gasket was in very good condition. Although I did replace it on the next clearance check.

Valve clearance should be done at the specified interval on this bike. Don't skip it or put it off, particularly the first clearance check, which is almost due (24k}. It's very unlikely you will hear any major change in sound. Valves just make a quiet click/tapping sound (good) If the sound goes away you have major trouble. A grumbling sound at lower RPM can be caused by a worn front sprocket and/or chain. It may sound like it's coming from the opposite side of the bike too, which can be confusing. The exhaust system will accumulate soot over time which will change the tone and volume of the exhaust sound. That is a gradual change you will experience. Also, check you are running the correct fuel octane number (RON) that the bike is tuned for. Don't go higher or lower, just use what the manual says. I have heard that people use hotter than standard spark plugs in these to help with low RPM running. Sounds like you should get an opinion from a qualified mechanic in person. I can't hear your bike so it all just guesswork.

​@@marks4058 Appreciate the comments. I've read of normally being no necessary changes on most N1K's at the 15-16k mark, typically. Also to "skip the first check" or that "normally the valves dont need any adjustment before 2-3x the stated service interval". So, the sound is specifically with it running, not just in gear. I'm usually running 93, but here in the US even 87 octane I believe is rated at 89-90. I pretty much always run 93. Interesting thought about the exhaust system.. could be on to something there. And/or, honestly lack of any valve chatter. I am posting a video now, no worries if you are too busy to check it out but I would be curious to hear what you thought. Having done the air filter, plugs, fuel filter, run Techron thru it twice, and only being at 19.5K, I'm at a bit of a loss for sure.

@@delasse3178 Skipping clearance checks is something you could consider when you have some data from past checks to show if this particular engine is subject to much clearance creep. Some engines are remarkably stable and others are not. I did the clearance on a Daytona 675 at 90,000km and it needed no adjustment. I've always found at least one valve needing a shim change on the Z1000. Your octane numbers in the USA are a concern for me! Can you verify what the bike is tuned for? Usually these require 95RON fuel. If it hasn't been adjusted for lower octane you probably have a pinging problem that will cause engine damage. Do you know if it was sold new from a dealership in USA? Or imported second hand? Try running a tank of fuel with sufficient lead free octane booster to get the RON number to 95. If that makes it run better, you have your answer.

@@marks4058 thanks again for the response! the manual for my bike states that it needs 90 RON, and US 87 is 89-90 RON, though I almost always run 93. I will try to boost the octane and see if that makes a difference, but the times I have run some 87 I have not noticed any noteable differences in running quality. The only thing I haven't mentioned is I noticed a minimal amount of water inside my tank lid and was perplexed, and then went to fill up one day after a rainstorm, and water was literally on the lip of the tank opening -- like 360 degrees of water around it. Ounces of it. I dried it up with paper towels and now have a rubber mat over my gas tank so that water can't get in, as I store it with a cover. Water has definitely gotten into the tank and mixed with gas, as for how much I do not know, because I don't really know how long it was happening. I bought the bike in 2020 with 6.5k miles and it was garaged until almost 2022. From my understanding, the problem would mostly be rust in stuff like the injectors, and not engine damage. I do feel like the injectors have quieted as well, unless I'm misassociating noise.

​@@delasse3178 Good to know the bike has been adjusted for lower octane. Sounds like the filler cap drain hose is blocked. There should be a drain hole in the gutter around the tank cap which drains through a hose which exits next to the front sprocket. It might be pinched, miss-routed or blocked with dirt. If you are not running E10 or some other fuel with ethanol already, you can put a couple of teaspoons of methylated spirits into each tank of fuel. That will help disperse any water which is accumulating at the bottom of the tank. Water pooling there would cause rough running, particularly at the start of a ride.

Oui, je l'ai installé à l'opposé de la position d'origine. L'orientation du joint ne pose aucun problème. Les surfaces d'étanchéité sont radiales et s'appuient contre l'arbre et le diamètre extérieur du boîtier.

凸轮轴似乎是铸造后进行铣削加工的，而不是锻造的

Многие говорят, что уплотнение не может работать в таком положении, но это радиальное уплотнение. Радиальное уплотнение не заботится о своем положении. Есть ли у вас дополнительная информация о том, почему печать не работает? Мне интересно узнать, проводили ли другие тесты.

@@marks4058 создаётся небольшое давление масла со стороны двигателя и через некоторое время может протекать масло.Если например поставить сальник в передний амортизатор на мотоцикле неправильно то он какое-то время работает но потом начинает течь всему виной разница давления

@@ШевченкоМихаил Я думаю, вы хотите сказать, что давление масла на вогнутой стороне давит наружу, расширяясь и прижимая уплотнение к поверхностям вала? Я сам об этом думал, но уплотнение представляет собой стальную ленту, покрытую резиной. Я не думаю, что какое-либо расширение возможно. Я внимательно проверял при каждом техническом обслуживании, но после 20 000 километров проблем не вижу. Возможно, в конце концов он все равно потерпит неудачу, тогда я исправлю свою ошибку. Спасибо, что нашли время ответить на старый комментарий.

@@marks4058 если вы 20.000 проехали после замены,это говорит о том что можно так ставить.это очень хороший результат.но я когда менял резиновое уплотнение побоялся так поставить .У вас очень хороший результат

Бро, у тебя тоже антифриз капал?

Clean the area around the weep hole with engine degreaser and recheck frequently. You might just be seeing oil from the chain or one of the drain tubes? If you are certain the oil comes from the weep hole, buy the seal and be ready to replace it if the leak becomes worse.

The water pump impeller is attached by a small bolt through the center. The oil pump rotor just floats on the shaft and is driven by the small pin.

@@marks4058 so you just force the impeler out of the shaft? mine does not come out by hand after removing the bolt

Did you prime the oil pump before start or not required?

@@powpow4033 Coating the parts with oil is sufficient to prime the oil pump. The water pump is primed by squeezing the hose between the pump and the radiator.

Lol. Even at 0.25x speed, he is going very fast!

@@cesartapia610 AGREED WHOLEHEARTEDLY!

No videos on that sorry. But, if you are experiencing poor braking power that's a good place to start. Some other things to consider are: vacuum bleeding the brake system with a syringe or vacuum bleeder (the Z's can be hard to bleed if your brake fluid is thin). Sometimes you think the job is done but there's actually quite a bit of air hiding in there. You can also try more aggressive brake pads and stainless steel rotors. Those will pull you up hard but can be quite grabby. I've done that mod before but not everyone will recommend it.