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Yes thats right, 3rd would be about the same ratio as an sr transmission with 4.6 diff in an s-chassis

Im running a pmas hpx maf, RS4 one works as well as long as you have a tuner who is willing to tune with that setup.

Not too sure about bottom mount setup with AC as I dont have much experience with those. As for clocking the drain 5 oclock is fine 4 is pushing it a bit. I know its common for people running a bottom mount to run a scavenge pump which helps the return flow and allows you to run a more aggressive angle.

@@aco.b thanks for the info.

Same motor but he is single vanos and yours is dual vanos. Not as simple as turbo go there pipe go there. You'll need many many many different fittings, sensors, custom piping made, tuning, some more tuning, etc. Do your research and then do more research, start saving now to do it properly or you'll be saving for a new motor to try again. Refresh before boosting m5x engine: COOLING SYSTEM: Radiator, Upper/lower coolant hoses, Thermostat, Coolant temp sensor (on lower coolant hose), Fan clutch, Water pump, Aux Fan. VANOS: Viton O-rings, Anti Rattle Bushings, Gasket, Piston Housing Seals. should also get in there and replace timing chain and guides depending on mileage. Hopefully it works out for you. Best of luck.

I used a sheet of perforated aluminum and bent it around the reservoir to reflect any heat. The downpipe is also wrapped with some fiberglass header wrap - you can also run a turbo blanket/cerakote the hot side if needed.

@@aco.b i have a turbo blanket on the way and header wrap but was curious as to what you did because i had a similar idea but that’s neat. Thank you!

RSI

Nope, unless its some cheap stuff

Turn that dream into reality 🏎️

Precision 6266

😂

I can try to explain it but I think the video does it better 😂

Thanks! They are 1"/25mm

Hey! Yes the maf reads much higher values, it is an HPX PMAS. The injectors are Siemens DEKA 60lb/630cc I would probably recommend different ones as these are notorious for being difficult to tune idle etc but I got a good deal on them. Fuel regulator is still stock, ive seen builds as high as 600hp still on the stock regulator so no need to change for what im doing.

@@aco.b thanks man! Really quickly, what's the wiring like for the MAF? same wires? Is there a diagram? cheers!

@ECEuro same wiring colours except the blue pmas wire goes to the yellow factory wire. The 2 extra gray wires can be ignored

I typically go with the hub conversion but this car is on adapters

31x13x3 - 3” inlet/outlet

@@aco.b did you have to cut the front crash bar or just the back of the bumper?

@benjohnstonn zero cutting needed

M52/M50 turbo is the better option, cheaper/higher power, less work and probably more reliable. I just have an SR20 car because I always wanted to do it lol

It is a ZF, I wouldn’t trust the getrag much over stock power

Can you help me install it for my e36 ❤

Maybe try changing your gain, if you havent then try to put it on F

Radiator hose and wastegate, I could also rotate it 180 but only if I cut out the wheel well on that side

@@aco.b ok, so I was thinking right way, that you would not miss such oportunity to make intake piping lot simplier ;) If you want to make it temperature-wise quite reliable, oil cooler is a must have. my b30t have not and after not so long 2-3 runs it goes to 110-115C (like probably 230F? ) and doesn't want to cool itselfs. So if you think about doing seat time like 10 laps in the row - will not work without. Do you know precisly what is the spec of the compresor and turbine wheel?

Yes oil cooler is definitely on the list, turbo is a 3076r not sure on the exact measurements but you should be able to find it online

Just stock ecu (MS41.1), there are plenty of videos online on how to tune it or you can pay for a remote tune service (from rk tunes, chaos calibrations, etc)

I wouldn’t do this brotha, that material they use on the an fittings won’t withstand multiple oil changes if it doesn’t back up the oil from being at the bottom of the pan

Yep, above the oil level is ideal. Like i said, ive seen others do this without issue so thought id give it a try to see for myself. In theory the level of oil in the drain wont exceed the level in the pan, if it doesnt work out ill just weld a bung higher or in the timing cover.

@@aco.b I would be curious, def a quick solution for to get it running

This was the first orientation i tried, unfortunately it hits the front tub section of the wheel arch with this manifold. Would require having to cut it out and have the piping sit close to the wheels turning radius. It is definitely a potential option down the road if i run into any issues with the current setup.

Thanks! Its an RSI one

Heard great things about both! Cant go wrong with either choice

Will definitely be getting some quality stuff for those lines 🤝

Not too difficult on the stock ecu, plenty of videos online if you want to do it yourself. There are also a few companies that offer remote tuning on stock ecus (rk tunes, chaos calibrations etc)

If you are willing to spend the money, link makes a great ecu and there are pnp adapters!

@@aco.b Their pnp solution doesn't support the M50B25NV on the standard OBD1 harness. (Is what they speak of on their product page) Only supports M50TUB25, which has me questioning if I could run it if I swap over to that harness & sensors, etc.

@8KGarage checkout pnpecu they make an adapter for the non vanos engines

Interesting, ill check with my tuner and see if this is an option. Thanks!

Wont work in any other direction with the manifold and wastegate in the way, yes the cummins metal drain is on my list if I have any issues with this one