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Least you brought an unfinished oak door and not a pre oiled door like my customer did 🫣

Wow! That's pretty much how my loft looks. Fantastic tutorial! To summarise the spec for this project collected from the comments. The 'rails' made of three layers of 3x2 CLS timber laid across the joists to accommodate extra 200mm of insulation and maintain 25mm gap between the insulation and the boards above (assuming the 3x2's are 47mm x 75mm). Stagger the timber to avoid each layer starting/ending at the same point, this will create one continuous 'rail'. Screw together with 100mm x 5mm screws installed at 4-5 per length. 2.4 x 0.6m x 18mm chipboard flooring boards used in the video installed with 50mm screws. Leave gaps at regular intervals on layers 1 and 2 to ensure airflow across the insulation and no condensation on the joists. The last point is interesting. I'd expect pockets of air within the insulation and not much cross airflow but then I know nothing about it. I gather that the potential condensation on the joists if no gaps left would be the result of the joists touching the warm ceiling underneath. I'd have thought leaving gaps on the topmost layer 3 just under the boards would help the most with the airflow. I suppose you could leave gaps in each layer of the 'rail' just to be on the safe side.

Tidy.

I don't understand why that type of handle was chosen but I suppose you do what the customer wants. I mean, who is going to be using that handle from the inside? 😀

This is totally incorrect and therefore misleading - By compressing loft insulation it can make it less effective by reducing its thermal performance by up to 50%. This is because compression reduces the thickness of the insulation, which reduces its R-value. Explanation Thermal performance Compressing insulation reduces its thermal resistance, which means it's less effective at keeping your home warm. Airflow Compressed insulation can reduce airflow, which can lead to dampness and mold. R-value The R-value per inch of insulation increases when compressed, but the overall R-value decreases because the insulation is thinner

Thankyou so much it's the best n quickest video I've seen.

Mate, that is lovely work. 👏🏼

How often do you sharpen your chisels

price

Hello! Looks awesome. What finish did you use on this door

From what I gather, you don't want to remove insulation like that... rather, you should build up your floor so it sits on top.

Great video, where did yo get the boards am looking to do something similar

Can u come and install mine lol

Couldn’t find the work van set up/ organization vid, inverter install looks nice will be adding one to my work van soon

Hi quick question how much weight would this hold?

Man the dust cancer on this

do you have a link to this ladder? thanks

whats the rough cost of this unit?

I have similar handles to these from howdens but when they're put on straight like these the latch doesn't fully open. Only if i put them on the door angled slightly lower does the latch fully open. Any idea why?

👍

Is 3x2 timber the same as 47mm x 75mm?? Did you predrill pilot holes to attach to frame? Thanks!

I have the same ladders,but I'm really struggling with something if anyone could help I'd be very greatfull

Not sure about the white tape a wee bit of clear silicone probably better.

very helpful to see it being done, thank you

Just found this video and answered a few questions as I’m looking to get an inverter for my van, just want it for when there’s no power on site for kettle, battery charging , will it run a toasty maker or a small microwave?

Nice! Cleanly done 👏🏼

All that extra weight is running on the original battens 🙄

Are they easy to fit?

Rubblish

Neat af 💯

Iske rate kya hai

Where did you buy this guide?

Your door is like a piece of art...what was the type of lockset you used???

Nice!!!

Lovely. Now lets see if *I* can do all this in 60 seconds. Lol.

Can you estimate the costs?

Just want to weigh-in for people looking to board out an entire loft for maximum use. This video demonstrates by far the easiest and most effective way to board out the loft floor. Regarding load-bearing issues you shouldn't need to worry. Why? Most lofts are utilsed for storing relatively light items that someone can put up with ease, such as suitcases, xmas decorations, bags of toys, old prams etc, things that need preserving or keeping dry meaning they can't go into the outhouse. These items are completely negligable as they collectively wouldn't make any difference to the load being bared by the joists - they won't move even a millimetre. However... If you plan on filling the space with shed-loads of much heavier items - things that require strong arms to get them up there and sweat to stack them up, there will likely be a much higher collective weight over the joists, so in that instance it is advisable to get a surveyor in beforehand, to be sure the structure can take it, or consider purchasing a second shed. Loft legs are simply an example of there always being more than one way to do a job, but you can decide on not using them... They do raise the level a little which might not be ideal if you have limited head-room, and the process of fitting loft legs is very specific and takes a lot longer. For most projects, the use of carcassing to create rails, as demonstrated in this video is correct and I have done it many times over a 30 year career. Keeping the lengths perpendicular will allow you to affix them minimising contact with the existing joists. Regarding the insulation, so long as the material is not above the level of the joists when fitted without being compressed - essentially it is flush and can breathe comfortably with the boards over the top, there will be plenty of ongoing air-flow to allow it to keep breathing, remember it is designed to hold air within. If you live in a home or area prone to damp & moisture (ie, the countryside or near a river etc), and want peace of mind that there will always be vented-airflow to ensure there is no condensation, especially if you are doing the entire floor area wall to wall, you could opt to drill down a series of air-holes; leave a 5cm gap between some of the boards being laid, or even flat-fit vents in areas you're never likely to step. Hope all this helps, I can waffle a bit. This video is bang-on.

my 26 inch fat bike with dual 1000w motors handled going through 7 miles of flooded roads like this perfectly the other week.

congratulations, you tackled it the right way, never stop in the water, keep going always forward so the engine doesn't get wet. I'll give you some advice, lift the front wheel and put the bike straight so as to let the water out present in the pipes

It was at this point you remembered u was trailering layla 😂😂

Got fed up of them butchering my floorboards I don't want them touching them anymore so I just lift them and put back down myself now

Does your 45 degree edge cuts fit perfectly in this way or need filling?

Just got to see my loft today (small hatch so never bothered looking before) To my surprise it revealed a pretty big space. I have a set of stairs but it would require me to cut into some joists Would you recommend this and how would you be able to add a support/brace to make it strong enough? Id imagine its possible?

Give out enough heat to keep a Jack Russell warm?

How much did that roughly cost for the materials ?

This is wrong . And embarrassing

The happiness in the dog face

How far apart did you put the screws for the 3x2 and what size/ type of screw please?

Break it and redo it? But i dont know how to do any of that. Lol

Im also a fitter and i appreciate your work , your skill is incredible