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Did you get an engine light on after the ecu flash? And if so did it go away on its own?

my brother has had his is300 laying in the driveway for a while now. since i wont be getting my own car i’ve been thinking about fixing it up and making it my first car but it would cost more to fix it than to buy a new engine. im thinking about putting a 2jz gte in there but i dont know if it would be worth it knowing prices have gone way up since this video. do you still think it would be worth it? because it would be pretty badass to pretty much have a supra.

Did you ever get this car figured out?

Might be a dumb question but can you do all this with fuel still in the tank I'm abit of a newbie I don't plan on changing the whole box just the filter

How the drone

Got a link for that intake?

What shift knob and boot you used?

You not being able to get into 5th is because when you engage 5th this cylinder comes out and if you dont shave it it will smack the adapter plate for anyone wondering

The inlet of the airfilter pls

Solid video but... *Frame Sliders.. not bar end mirrors

You need new HVAC controls. The knob is broken. Just something that happens eventually with the 3rd gen. I just solved this problem. My dial suddenly did not influence the temperature anymore and I was stuck on hot. You have a limited model, and I have the 2002 SR5 model, so I can’t tell you the part number because the year and model matters. But there are companies that will fix yours if you send it in, or you can buy a refurbished one off eBay like I did. Toyota time with Timmy did a short video on this. Moreover, I suspect that your hvac air door actuator was disconnected by the previous owner, since they were manually adjusting it from the engine bay. The actuator is the little motor that is connected to the wire that runs through the firewall to the heater valve you just changed. It’s located on the passenger side floor area. It’s very easy to access. You would have to make sure it’s still there and connected to that wire and connected to its wiring harness. It’s what your knob is directly communicating with.

How to keep a/c when you double the swap

Did that fix your issue? Also having the same issue. If it did would you mind sharing the part number for the replacement piece?

I too let my gs300 gte swap get crusty as well. Also depressed as well, but I’m currently hammering out a ton of maintenance on my is300. I absolutely love the chassis. Are you still working on it?

did you get the hordpower from them directly??? seems like its always out of stock

Was this a j1 or j2? And what clutch?

Manda o lnk desta bolha top!

Whered you get your intake from

Any noise with the cd009 ? And it’s normal?

What master cylinder did you use

Ever figure this thing out? Easy way to check valves is put paper on exhaust pipe, if the paper sucks in you got issues there

What adapter is it what kit

Check your pcv system, i think problem is from exhaust cam valve cover pipe is open and suction air after maf sensor. Deleted all oem pcv system and install 10an catch can system both side valve cover .

You interested in selling the auto tans

Do you know your driveshaft measurements?

I cuz the plate needs to be fixed

What motor mount ? Thank you

Can check u coolant temperature sensor cause simple use to happen to my 1jz get me a new one now it’s idling too high

What does the afr read when it's about to cut & when it cuts?

Did you ever figure out your idle issue. I have a 1jz vvti that is doing the exact same thing!

This video is quite confusing. one minute it's flat, then next thing you want to get fuel, then coolant. Then the next cut scene it has the exhaust? At what point did you get the vibrant exhaust installed?

How did you wire it up?

So grind down all those bubbles?

Also should get the tune touched up a little richen it up a little at idle

Update hoe

Spark plugs!!!!!

Standalone time 🏃🏿‍♂️

Just curious but have you checked for any vacuum or boost leaks anywhere?

The AFR wouldn't have anything to do with the ignition system. You should try to read live data and see what the fuel trims are doing. Perhaps the o2 sensors are fouled.

I'd be wondering why it's idling so lean. It should be closer to 13-14.

What motor mounts ?

When you ran the tweak’d performance wiring harness did you have to change the location of the ecu or does it allow you to run it in the stock location

What kit are you using ? And clutch set up?

Any issues with this kit ?

If it ends up not being your coil packs/wires I’d look at the igniter. It’s job is to fire the coils in the correct order. I can send you my old one if you want to give it a try.

when you move to stand-alone I highly recommend the 1zz coil on plug conversion and and also just a simple DBW delete to move to 100% drive by cable if you don’t want to spend big bucks on a new intake mani

Have you checked the wiring to the coil packs? Recently had a similar issue and that was the culprit

I just seen this video and I’m going thru the same issues I was wondering what clutch kit is it ?

There should the a total of 4 o rings on each injector

Sell me your trunk carpet