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@@chadmcreynolds3963 these are the gauges I used. They aren’t the best, but they are cheap. I do have a video on my gauges, it should be in the playlist this one is in, but if you can’t find it, let me know and I’ll reply with a link. a.co/d/cKDPsaV

@@arkansasjon2171 thank you so much!! That c10 looks so good btw

@@chadmcreynolds3963 here is the guage video. Lemme know if you have any questions! th-cam.com/video/GrLHafNkq8o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=98sb-3BnnD9_Pjaj

@@arkansasjon2171 when you say those gauges aren’t the best, do you mean they don’t read very accurately? I’ve heard Dakota digital is the best, but those things aren’t cheap! Thank you for for your bideos they’re very informative

@@chadmcreynolds3963 they aren’t super accurate, but they will get you in the ballpark. The tach is a little jumpy, the fuel gauge is as well but will eventually get to the right level. These gauges were $200. I have Dakota digital gauges in my blue truck, and that setup new with the obd interface is around $1000, but you also get what you pay for and the DD gauges are very nice, but the red truck was all about budget.

@@calvinshort9391 thank you for watching!

@@larrydixon-vi7ld I agree! After we fix the rear caps and quarters, that bumper will go for sure

@@aguywithwood9293 thank you! I’m glad you found my channel

@@heathhylton4746 yes, you will either need to buy a new pad or re-use your old mounting pad. It lines up with one bolt hole on each side for me and I just had to drill an additional hole on each side, but the holes on the crossmember are slotted and give plenty of room for location

@@arkansasjon2171 I appreciate it! I wanted to make sure because on the Amazon page for the crossmember, it only said that TH350, TH400 and 700R4 transmissions work with it. I didn’t see anything about any other transmissions.

@@heathhylton4746 I can confirm it works just fine with 4L60E. They basically use all the same mounting stuff so you should be good. It’s a nice and cheap crossmember.

@@arkansasjon2171 I believe you. I knew that the 700R4 and the 4L60E were very similar but the 4L60E is an upgrade to the 700R4. I’m restoring a 70 C10 and I am buying LS 5.3 and your video is very informative and it helps direct me in the right path to achieve the LS swap in a more affordable way! I appreciate it!

@@heathhylton4746 that’s great! I don’t get a lot of views but I appreciate helping anyone I can, I learn most of what I know through watching others videos as well, TH-cam is a wonderful resource for all of us. Thank you for the comments!

I’ve used them on 2 of these C10’s so far, they fit great. Only place the clearance is kinda tight is on the passenger side between the header and bell housing around where the starter is, it gets pretty tight there, but that’s the only place

@@arkansasjon2171 what trans are u running I’m planning on a 4l80 white my 6.2

@@JBs_trucks_and_whitetail_bucks I have 4l60e in both trucks, but I’d have 4l80e if I had a choice, you’ll be good with that one

I used this one, Demotor 32” from Amazon. You will have to order a DD shaft and adapters for the steering box, if you need to know those parts, let me know and I can share links for those as well. a.co/d/09PC37ap

I pretty much always say it wrong...lol

@@arkansasjon2171 The acronym is for On Board Diagnostics. . . .just remember On Board and you'll get OBD and not ODB

@@warrenpierce8526 That makes sense. I've been saying it wrong for so long, it might be a hard habit for me to break!

Thanks for the comment. Yes, 2” drop springs and CPP 2.5” drop spindles. I can measure the ride height if you need measurements. Just let me know where you want it measured from. I will say, I think new springs with 2” drop, the difference between those and stock worn out springs might differ because the new springs will be stiffer than the old sprung out springs so you might not get as much as you think, depending on how worn out your springs are if you know what I’m saying, but she still rides pretty low. Just let me know what you need and I’d be happy to measure and/or send you pictures

@@arkansasjon2171 Thanks for the info! Yes i get what your saying about new springs. Im trying to figure out what kinda height I like. What size tires are you running on it? Thanks again

@@user-nf4hl2vb8h 245/60R18. If you send me an email or some way to send you some pictures, I just took a few of the stance I can send you

Awesome. Glad it helped and good luck on your swap!

Thanks Charles!

No problem! Glad it helped!

The holes did line up for me and everything squared up. The hole is slightly bigger than the bolt so it can move around a little bit, it could have been even bigger due to the size of the washer. The offset washer makes it so you can rotate the bolt slightly from side to side in order to line up the hole in the wood, the cross sill, and the plate on the frame it needs to go through.

@@arkansasjon2171 Thanks you!

@@arkansasjon2171 The holes on the other side is just mirrored from the board you measured on right!!?

Thanks. And if i were you, since you are bagging and doing a big notch to lay it out, you might look at making the raised bed portion so that you can still access the top of the tank if you need to after mounting it on top of the frame. I still have your number, i'll send you a video of mine driving so you can see how low of clearance there is right now

Thanks for the comment! No, the original driveshaft won’t work. Both trucks, I used a company called Southwest Speed and ordered a custom length driveshaft. Both trucks are 5.3L motors and 4L60E transmissions, and both used a 59” driveshaft, but I would measure according to their website specs before you order because it can vary slightly. Both driveshafts were around $300 and included driveshaft, yoke and u-joints. Good luck with your project!

@arkansasjon2171 Thanks! Also, did you do a brake booster conversion, or did they have them already? Mines just have master cylinder.

@@raulcruz4182 I did power brake conversion with dual master cylinder on both trucks. You can usually find the booster and the corvette style master cylinder for around $200 on eBay and it’ll come with the rod and bracket you need to mount it up, you just have to drill a few holes in the firewall for the bracket

@arkansasjon2171 thanks! Keep up the detailed videos. Really helps out a lot for us guys doing it for the first time.

I didn't know to be honest, but went looking and all the conversion kits i see for 67-72, none of them look like they include the bracket, so it doesnt seem like you would need it, but i will tell you that if you call up CPP out in california and tell them what you are trying to do, they have a very knowledgeable tech department and they will tell you exactly what you will need, and IF you will even need that bracket.

@@arkansasjon2171 thanks man I appreciate the info! Iv got an 03 Yukon I’m using as my power plant it’s a 5.3 180k miles it’s a 4x4 so I will have to get a longer shaft for the trans and some other things..

@@JesseW1968 Southwest Speed is pretty easy to deal with if you need a custom length shaft, fyi. Good luck on your project!

Could you also show where you mounted your computer and fuse block. Getting ready to start swapping my 1965 c10

I don’t know if this link will work, but if it doesn’t, just search for LS Swap gas pedal. It is a pretty basic cable gas pedal that’s pretty easy to mount where you need it. www.ebay.com/itm/314216808456?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=m0_FhXwpR8y&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=buEAKr-lQem&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@willhinman8978 I will try to get a picture of it when I am out in the shop this week or show it in my next video, but I have mounted in 2 different places. I just use the cheap ecu mounts you can find on eBay or Amazon that mount to the torx bolts on the computer cover. On the blue truck I mounted behind the glove box door, screwed into the firewall and the red truck, also screwed into the firewall but below the heater box since I left the heater in there. I don’t use the glove box on either truck, so that was just an easy and convenient spot for me. One could mount a sheet metal plate below the glove box if you still have the cardboard liner and then screw to that and it would be relatively hidden, but I was never very keen on mounting underneath the hood and being exposed to possible elements. Using the Bp automotive harness, and possibly others, there is plenty of slack that you could mount it under the seat, but you would have to account for the wire bundle to raise your carpet, but if you had a console you could hide it in there easily. There is enough slack in that harness to probably mount it under the close to the back wall of the cab.

@@arkansasjon2171 awesome. Thank you for the help

That great! Hope it helps you get yours done!

Thank you! I will swap that out. Did you just find an oring at a parts store?

@@arkansasjon2171 yeah, went to a hydraulic hose supplier and he had some real good quality rings, also those little countersunk screws are cheese, if they arent an allen type swap them too and put some threadlocker on when you got them as if the carb is 90 deh to the spinner screws it loads them a fair bit

@@onemanup7895 good advice. Thank you!

lol….those are 3rd generation sawhorses. They don’t make em like they used to

Awesome! And thank you!

Yes, it did come with the fuel cap. Its a pretty nice and hefty cap as well.

Nice! It’s a small world! Thanks for watching!

I have a bulk pack of connectors and did this on all my plugs on the blue truck. Only takes one time making that mistake of having to reconnect wires after you think you are done!

Thank you! I should have front suspension done this week, I’ll have part 2 up soon. Thanks for watching!

Is that the old Honda Trail 90 in the corner? That bike is older than you, maybe me!

@@warrenpierce8526 That isn't the same one. But one day out looking for parts, i found 2 trail 90's and bought both of them. And both of them are older than me. The yellow one is a 69 and the red one is a 71.

Here is the list, i have added to the description. If i missed anything, let me know: Parts list: Lifan 125cc Electric start motor: a.co/d/ee4TFHQ Simplified wiring harness if you dont want electric start: a.co/d/adOgKdb Intake manifold: a.co/d/i0Uzzsv Intake spacer/adapter: a.co/d/bdtPmVd DrATV motor mount adapter parts (rear motor adapter kit and footpeg adapter. These can be referenced here and then searched on ebay): dratv.com/bofoadplb.html

I will have to get my wife to test that out...im a pretty big guy, it wouldnt get up to real top speed with me on it. I'll try to make a follow up video with another review of the motor after its broken in.

Thank you!

At that water level it was around 5.0ft at ponca

@@arkansasjon2171 water flow?

@@arkansasjon2171 I’m asking because I doing this section next week and the outfitters said is a white water section

@@steveadventuresinokc I don’t have a figure on cfs, us locals use ponca level as a benchmark. 5ft and over is pretty high. Just keep an eye on the weather and pay close attention where you set up camp and have an escape route (tie up your boats at night too). The water level can rise rapidly with even just an isolated thunderstorm. It is considered a whitewater section, but nothing considered dangerous unless you get flooding. Anything from 2.9-4ft will be fun an leisurely with some fun rapids. 4.5 and above, you’ll want to know a little more than just a few times a year boater.

@@arkansasjon2171 thank you so much for replying