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Yes you do have the probe point on the back of the build plate. If your migrating to mainline klipper, you have to setup all your sovol marcos to work again. So my mindset in this case was I didn't plan to use it as the recommended method for setting the offset with the eddy is the old fashioned paper test. Which works. Offset has stayed consistent with the Eddy probe, and I'm only resetting my offset when swapping nozzles. I'm actually in the process of reworking that back section to allow a purge bucket to purge, then clean the nozzle before prints. Thanks for the question / comment! And for giving my content a look. Appreciate it!!

It works great, I like that it has some utility built in - can be used for a external spool, instead of just a handle.

Are you running this? What command are you using for rapid scan? BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan does that allow the rapid scan? In your sovol-macros.cfg around line 103/104 you should have this as part of your Print_start. #BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ADAPTIVE=1 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE SCAN_MODE=rapid METHOD=scan ADAPTIVE=1

@@ThePrintasaurus I am having the same problem. changed #BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ADAPTIVE=1 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE SCAN_MODE=rapid METHOD=scan ADAPTIVE=1 still same problem

​@@dreysbimmer Back up your eddy.cfg and try this. This is my eddy cfg macros. In the eddy.cfg after the ########## macros and related ###########. Replace everything with this below. Once you have that saved in your eddy.cfg. Open your sovol-macros.cfg and around line 103/104 look for your BED_MESH. And make sure that line reads this. BED_MESH_CALIBRATE SCAN_MODE=rapid METHOD=scan ADAPTIVE=1 [save_variables] filename: ~/printer_data/config/variables.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [force_move] enable_force_move: True # Allows a user to move the z axis down if they have no other means of homing Z and need to calibrate the Eddy. # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [delayed_gcode RESTORE_PROBE_OFFSET] initial_duration: 1. gcode: {% set svv = printer.save_variables.variables %} {% if not printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].restored %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ svv.nvm_offset|default(0) } SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=restored VALUE=True {% endif %} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop # Take note of the lines that should only be used if you have a KNOMI installed. [gcode_macro G28] rename_existing: G28.1 gcode: #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=True # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg G28.1 {rawparams} {% if not rawparams or (rawparams and 'Z' in rawparams) %} PROBE SET_Z_FROM_PROBE {% endif %} #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=False # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [gcode_macro SET_Z_FROM_PROBE] gcode: {% set cf = printer.configfile.settings %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG Z={printer.probe.last_z_result - cf['probe_eddy_current btt_eddy'].z_offset + printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset} G90 G1 Z{cf.safe_z_home.z_hop} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE] rename_existing: Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE_ORIG gcode: SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=nvm_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset } # Uncomment the lines in this macro if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET] rename_existing: SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG variable_restored: False # Mark whether the var has been restored from NVM variable_runtime_offset: 0 gcode: {% if params.Z_ADJUST %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset + params.Z_ADJUST|float } {% endif %} {% if params.Z %} {% set paramList = rawparams.split() %} {% for i in range(paramList|length) %} {% if paramList[i]=="Z=0" %} {% set temp=paramList.pop(i) %} {% set temp="Z_ADJUST=" + (-printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset)|string %} {% if paramList.append(temp) %}{% endif %} {% endif %} {% endfor %} {% set rawparams=paramList|join(' ') %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE=0 {% endif %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG { rawparams } # This macro automates a lot of the frequency mapping process and simplifies the steps significantly. [gcode_macro PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO] gcode: BED_MESH_CLEAR G28 X Y G90 # Abs positioning G1 X{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x/2 } Y{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y/2 } F6000 {% if 'z' not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z={ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.z-1 } # Allows the user to work it down until it touches. {% endif %} PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE {rawparams} #This macro is optional but useful if you want to run a rapid scan before each print. Simply uncomment it and add BED_MESH_SCAN to your print start code. [gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE] rename_existing: BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE gcode: # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=True #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan # BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=False #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg

@@ThePrintasaurus fixed it by removing the # in sovol-marcos.cfg before METHOD=rapid_scan originaly its BED_MESH_CALIBRATE_BASE ADAPTIVE=1 #METHOD=rapid_scan Thanks for helping.

Thanks for the reply! I am finishing up a video on the micro swiss hotend. Being able to swap the flowtech nozzles with minimum effort it awesome. I frequently go back and forth with a .4 and .6. The flow is better and more consistent too. I was having some issues with PETG and the stock hotend, it would clog on occasion. No issues with the micro swiss. The bed... Mine is a taco, and gets worse the more it's heated. I have played with the idea of swapping to a 8mm thick voron bed. I have a cheaper 50.00 350mm bed that I had swapped out on my Voron 2.4 for a Mic6 bed that stays almost perfect on the voron. I have found a few have made adapters to adopt the 2.4 bed to the sv08. I think l'm going to do a video on it and why people may want to look towards an improved bed. I'm on the fence with how far I want to try and improve this printer. My original idea was to pick and choice lower cost options that would improve the print experience with the SV08. Changing beds, and everything start to push prices up into the lowerend Voron 2.4 kits. But I can see the value in doing these mods at the same time. You can start with something at a good price point and pick the mods you want to do. The SV08 means well, and I think Sovol did a good job in terms of offering a Voron like printing experience at a price point that's affordable, and something you don't have to have the knowledge to assemble, and program - until you start modding it! With the Eddy Coil. I have seen a few issues with the shielding of the usb cable. I have a higher quality cable, but have not had a chance to pin it and install. I'm hoping that improves some of the noise/frequency interference issues. It hasn't been a consistent issue for me, but I have a few emails so far and inputs on issues with that. The Fan mod is 100% a must. Instant improvement, as you said even without setting it up to be temperature controlled. Thanks again for sharing your inputs!!

@@ThePrintasaurus - Totally agree on all points. I like Sovol. I love that they're embracing open source, giving credit where due, contributing back to the community (code, mechanical designs and a little cash). There is definitely a business model where open source can be leveraged to make a product that is re-engineered to be more suitable to manufacturing, and the SV08 was a noble effort. Sovol got a lot right in the SV08. As an engineer, it bugs me to see the places where Sovol was a little penny wise but pound foolish. I would have loved to spend $100 more and had a flat print surface and 5" touch screen, and maybe a reliable camera. I don't mind paying extra to upgrade the hot end although I wish all 3D printer manufacturers would form alliances and get discounts on good extruders rather than building their own as that's usually the weak point although the 3D printer manufacturers are finally starting to make good extruders and hot ends starting in 2024. Similarly, 3D printer manufacturers should ship their products with plain vanilla Klipper instead of cobbling their own version, and they should ship their printers with configuration files for OrcaSlicer, SuperSlicer and PrusaSlicer rather than re-skinning one of the slicers that is guaranteed to be out of date and become more out of date. That's wasted effort that could be spent ensuring we have good profiles for the slicer we already use. So far, my SV08 is printing well. PLA is forgiving enough that the taco bed isn't causing problems. The camera didn't work, then worked for a few minutes after I upgraded the firmware, then quit again. The Sovol SV08 camera trouble shooting page has several generic recommendations then asks the community to let them know when we've fixed the unreliable camera problem. My SV08's WiFi didn't work either. Most people apparently had the camera problem or the WiFi problem but I had both. I plugged a Vonet 2.4 GHz WiFi bridge into the SV08's Ethernet port to get it on my wireless LAN. It would be nice if these annoying issues were resolved before the SV08 shipped. I waited half a year to avoid bleeding edge new product issues, and still had these problems, but it's still a good printer for the money and it'll take a lot less time and money to get the SV08 where I need it than building a Voron 2.4. If I can drill the magnetic sheet, remove the heated print bed, shim it, rinse & repeat a few times and get the bed flat to within 0.2 mm, that's probably good enough for the girls I go with, but it really should be much better. If it's not too difficult to switch to a Voron 2.4 build plate, I'd be willing to do that but I'm not ready to delve into the engineering. I'm lazy enough that I hope someone makes a video explaining what to buy and how to do the upgrade. Subscribed! 🙂 My SV08 wish list: Stay flat print bed Rock solid WiFi Camera that just works 0.1 mm accuracy or better bed probing MicroSwiss hot end (done) 3D printed enclosure (I'm designing it and will upload to Printables/Thingiverse) Good OrcaSlicer profiles (I'll develop profiles the PLA, PETG, TPU and ABS that I use)

Merry Christmas to you as well! What are you seeing in your printer.cfg. Scroll to the bottom, the section that says do not edit. Do you have something like this? Curious if the initial calibration failed. Under the calibrate = you should see a large amount of data. [probe_eddy_current btt_eddy] reg_drive_current = 15 calibrate = I would rerun your drive current calibration. Make sure you are at 20mm and rerun your LDC_CALIBRATE_DRIVE_CURRENT CHIP=btt_eddy Make sure you save that - SAVE_CONFIG Then reset your z-offset - PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO CHIP=btt_eddy again save that. Then rerun your temp offset calibration. G0 Z5. SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT TIMEOUT=36000. and then your calibration command - EMPERATURE_PROBE_CALIBRATE PROBE=btt_eddy TARGET=56 STEP=4 I switched to the Z-offset beta config as well - which allows you to fine tune and use your Z-micro steps to tune your offset and save it. Wanted to mention that as well. You can copy the macro section, everything below ###########macros and related ############ and replace what you have there. Just wanted to share what I have found to be a nice addition. github.com/bigtreetech/Eddy/blob/master/sample-bigtreetech-eddy-zoffbeta.cfg

@@ThePrintasaurus Yep that fixed it, thank you and happy new year ! Oh and I see there is an firmware update out now, someone really needs to do a vid on how to correctly update mainline klipper firmware ! ;)

I have been really happy with the consistency of Atomics filament. Prints the same every time!

I’m using the orca sovol profile at the moment with the updated print start. I plan to adapt things more to what I have on my Voron soon. I’m using the demon klipper macros on my voron and really like them. Lots of features, and settings for each filament type as well. Here’s the link if you want to take a look github.com/3DPrintDemon/Demon_Klipper_Essentials_Unified For your fan, what pin position is your fan plugged in to? One at the top right, or bottom /mid right? My fan was plugged in at the top right and I just needed to change to that pin out for it to work. Let me know which your using and I’ll look at my print config and post the change for you to try.

@@ThePrintasaurus Thanks for the reply, it is plugged in on the upper right of the toolhead board as well, thanks again!

@@ShuhDonk Here is what I did to enable that top right pin. It is PB0. You can also just plug the housing into PB1, which is the bottom right pin. I have the link to the pinouts here as well. [multi_pin print_cooling_fan_pins] pins: extra_mcu:PA7, extra_mcu:PB1, extra_mcu:PB0 # print/part cooling fan [fan] pin: multi_pin:print_cooling_fan_pins max_power: 1.0 github.com/Sovol3d/SV08/blob/main/Motherboard/Extra_PIN_definition.pdf

@@ThePrintasaurus Awesome, thank you so much, working now! :)

@@ShuhDonk Excellent!! And no problem at all!

That was the goal - to make a more through video. Appreciate your feedback there. For saving your backup files, from mainsail. Click on the machine tab. Once there check your current path - /config is what should be listed. Next to name click the checkbox, that will highlight everything. Then click the blue cloud icon that is the download icon. That will save it to where you have your browser sending your downloads - usually the download folder.

@@ThePrintasaurus Thank you for the quick response. I ended up putting the old EMMC back on it. Opening the cfg file from within mainsail. Copied the text and created a new text file with Notepadd++. Pasted all of the text and saved it to my desktop as config.cfg. Then used this file to get my mcu lines coppied to the new emmc after swapping it back in. This is still a painful process if you don't do this a lot.

@@KS_Husker Awesome, glad you were able to get your info you needed. Yes this is not the easiest thing to do so hang in there! Let me know if you have any other questions. You can send me an email if you like. theprintasaurus@gmail.com

I have looked into the PZ probe potentially for one of my vorons. I have a standard revo hotend, with tap on that machine. The eddy is very fast, and reduces the prep time a bit even with a heat soak to prep the bed before printing. The tap and what the PZ probe would be are really accurate as well. I think it really comes down to what you are trying to do. Speed at the sacrifice of some accuracy (eddy) or the Pz probe accurate but a slower method with having to touch the bed to probe. Both would be a vast improvement over the SV08 inductive probe.

@@ThePrintasaurus I have been holding off to see how the eddy does, I have been running a bambu E3D obsidian nozzle on the SV08 and it has been great with great flow and the prints look clean so it puts me in a situation that I cannot run mt E3D EZ probe. I am waiting to see what the reviews are for the eddy longer term. My sovol has pretty good first layers with the stock one just a little squished as long as I soak the bed.

That is a great idea.

One other person sent me an email recently and is having trouble with this step. Things are pointing to the boardenv.txt file potentially not booting correctly. Can you check that you have this file sun50i-h616-sovol-emmc.dtb in the right spot? copy the sun50i-h616-sovol-emmc.dtb file from the /files-used/dtb-files/ GitHub folder HERE to your 'BOOT' drive /dtb/allwinner/ folder. and make sure you have this below copied above the #---------------# and nothing else above it. bootlogo=false overlay_prefix=sun50i-h616 fdtfile=sun50i-h616-sovol-emmc console=display overlays=uart3 overlays=ws2812 overlays=spidev1_1 Last are you using METHOD 1 or METHOD 2 to flash your emmc? If you are using a SD card - METHOD 2 see note below: NOTE 2: fdtfile=sun50i-h616-sovol-emmc supports both eMMC and SD cards but will, obviously, only boot from one (according to the BTT CB1 docs the SD card has priority over eMMC but there have been reports of it being the other way around; if it boots from eMMC and not the SD card please make sure the eMMC is empty or non-bootable or just remove it from the printer).

Sovol has a 1 year warranty on manufacturer defects. Sv08 they market as Open Source, compile & modify & upgrade. In most cases any changes to a 3d printer usually causes issues with warranties. But with Sovols marketing on the SV08 that may not be the case. I've sent them an email, waiting on a response. I'll post an update here once I receive. The way I have interpreted the SV08 marketing is - they designed it to be open source and upgradable like the Voron 2.4 it's based on. I will get you an official answer though from Sovol.

your system.cfg? Did you convert to a txt file edit and made sure to convert it back to .cfg and copy back over to your mmc? If you can send me an email at theprintasaurus@gmail.com will be easier for me to try and help with steps that way to get you going with your conversion.

Thanks for your feedback. I like that enclosure / dryer idea. Would be nice to see someone offer something at a price point that isn't industrial/commercial. I plan to experiment a little with the polyphemus enclosure, see if I can make a top that comes off and on by magnates. Something to make things easier to route filament through the top ptfe ports and make it alittle easier to swap out filaments. For my Sunlu S4, I printed some tabs that make opening easier, so small taps are horrible!!!

If your in boot mode with the eddy USB - done by pressing and holdling the boot button and plugging in usb a the same time. When you do your lsusb - it should come up as "Bus 001 Device XXX: ID XXXXXXX (whatever your device id is) Raspberry Pi RP2 boot. The device ID is what you want to copy and add to the make flash FLASH_DEVICE=thedeviceid. Once ran it will convert that device name to usb-klipper_rp2040_XXXXXXXXXXX_if00 If you are seeing that, it was completed successfully. To test / check. Unplug your Eddy. ssh into your printer and run that ls/dev/serial/by-id/* You should only see two usb-klipper devices - one is your tool head and the other the mainboard. When you do a lsusb - you should see two OpenMoko stm32f103xe those again are your tool head and mainboard. Press and hold the boot button on the eddy, and plug it back into the usb port at the same time. Run your lsusb and you should now see a raspberry pi rp2. If you have already flashed your eddy - when you do lsusb it will display as OpenMoko rp2040. Let me know, happy to help you get things sorted!

commenting out is a coding term. What I mean by commenting out is whatever line you are removing you would add a # in front of what is on that line, and that makes it inactive. example: # I want to comment out this line When you are testing, or configuring this method is prefered because you can always revert your changes by removing what you added, and uncommenting (removing the #) from the beginning of the line and your code is restored to what you had before. You can remove if that is your preference as well. Once I have my files how I like I usually go back and clean things up by removing. I'll make a backup first incase I need something before I do that.

@ Thank you, I like when I learn and that definitely helped me learn. Good explanation.

Thanks for watching. I agree, it is hard to do these videos and include all aspects. That is something I am looking to work towards and do differently than everyone else! Appreciate the feedback.

What does your bed mesh look like? I have found that I have to let the bed heat soak at whatever temp I am printing at for 5 minutes or so. Then when I run my print start - it bed meshes and first layers are consistent. If it's cold and I go straight to printing when the bed heats up I have had some issues. Also did you do the heat compensation calibration? You may need to revisit that after your initial calibration. You can also do this below to add the z-offset save function, which will work more like a traditional probe offset adjustment and allow you to save your z-offset. In your eddy config I would comment out your existing macros and paste the below in what I am using for macros. # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [save_variables] filename: ~/printer_data/config/variables.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [force_move] enable_force_move: True # Allows a user to move the z axis down if they have no other means of homing Z and need to calibrate the Eddy. # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [delayed_gcode RESTORE_PROBE_OFFSET] initial_duration: 1. gcode: {% set svv = printer.save_variables.variables %} {% if not printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].restored %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ svv.nvm_offset|default(0) } SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=restored VALUE=True {% endif %} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop # Take note of the lines that should only be used if you have a KNOMI installed. [gcode_macro G28] rename_existing: G28.1 gcode: #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=True # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg G28.1 {rawparams} {% if not rawparams or (rawparams and 'Z' in rawparams) %} PROBE SET_Z_FROM_PROBE {% endif %} #SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=homing VALUE=False # Uncomment this if using a KNOMI and then remove the G28 macro from the KNOMI.cfg # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop [gcode_macro SET_Z_FROM_PROBE] gcode: {% set cf = printer.configfile.settings %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG Z={printer.probe.last_z_result - cf['probe_eddy_current btt_eddy'].z_offset + printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset} G90 G1 Z{cf.safe_z_home.z_hop} # Uncomment this if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE] rename_existing: Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE_ORIG gcode: SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=nvm_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset } # Uncomment the lines in this macro if you are using Eddy as the probe AND the homing endstop AND would like to use the beta z-offset control [gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET] rename_existing: SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG variable_restored: False # Mark whether the var has been restored from NVM variable_runtime_offset: 0 gcode: {% if params.Z_ADJUST %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE={ printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset + params.Z_ADJUST|float } {% endif %} {% if params.Z %} {% set paramList = rawparams.split() %} {% for i in range(paramList|length) %} {% if paramList[i]=="Z=0" %} {% set temp=paramList.pop(i) %} {% set temp="Z_ADJUST=" + (-printer["gcode_macro SET_GCODE_OFFSET"].runtime_offset)|string %} {% if paramList.append(temp) %}{% endif %} {% endif %} {% endfor %} {% set rawparams=paramList|join(' ') %} SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=SET_GCODE_OFFSET VARIABLE=runtime_offset VALUE=0 {% endif %} SET_GCODE_OFFSET_ORIG { rawparams } # This macro automates a lot of the frequency mapping process and simplifies the steps significantly. [gcode_macro PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE_AUTO] gcode: BED_MESH_CLEAR G28 X Y G90 # Abs positioning G1 X{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x/2 } Y{ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y/2 } F6000 {% if 'z' not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z={ printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.z-1 } # Allows the user to work it down until it touches. {% endif %} PROBE_EDDY_CURRENT_CALIBRATE {rawparams} #This macro is optional but useful if you want to run a rapid scan before each print. Simply uncomment it and add BED_MESH_SCAN to your print start code. [gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE] rename_existing: BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE gcode: # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=True #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg BTT_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=rapid_scan # SET_GCODE_VARIABLE MACRO=_KNOMI_STATUS VARIABLE=probing VALUE=False #Only uncomment this line if using a KNOMI and then remove the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE macro from KNOMI.cfg

@@ThePrintasaurus Thanks for the macros above. I can see they are from the eddy beta config file. Updating to these macros I am now able to save the z-offset and now its been consistent for 5 test prints. I tested both from a cold start with 5 minute heat soak and starting a print after the previous finishes and am getting the z-offset to be spot on or only out +/- 0.05 mm which is easy to adjust while its doing the purge lines.

@@slowlane3391 I'm glad things are working more consistently! The beta z-offset config I'm going to add to my description. I've been using / testing for a week or two now and with you confirming successful prints I think it's a good option to include. Something I am looking into now is the bed, mine is close in anyway to being flat. I'm experimenting with shims, but might look at bed replacement options too to see if I can get things even better!!

I'm glad I was able to help!!!

Appreciate you watching!

Appreciate your inputs. All good points. It is hard to really find or set a "base" to compart all plates too. Especially when it comes to an adhesion standard. I was simply working off what BTT advertises as there adhesion numbers. Where the PEI plate falls on that scale after using all three I would say the PEI plate is a high 6 or 7. Which is something I should of said in my video! Something that I do find and like with the Glacier plate - which is my go to plate at the moment. We lost power the other day for about 3.5 hours. I had two prints running one with the Glacier plate and one with my go to PEI plate. The pei plate release and my print failed as a result. The Glacier plate held and I was able to recover once the power was back on and continue the print. So there is benefit there. Ultimately I think doing plate reviews comes down to preference, and showing more examples might help in that process for someone to pick a plate. I'll work on that. My goal when I set out to do this was to help people and provide more accurate reviews when I reviewed something good or bad. Appreciate your feedback!

Having some preassembled rollers would be nice! They can be tricky getting them together. Appreciate you watching and the support! Sounds like you have some fun projects planned. Which Spool winder did you go with?

No problem at all with your question! The instructions are on either link I posted makerworld or Printables, if you scroll down they start towards the middle of those pages. There should be a downloadable link to a PDF set of instructions there too!

Here is a fully printed one, www.printables.com/model/959792-sovol-sv08-enclousure If you want acrylic panels Nadri has good information here: www.printables.com/model/879399-sovol-sv08-panels-for-the-enclosure

That is correct, to be able to control fan speed it needs to be set to the correct pin for that fan port. PA1 is the port. Once you have it set correctly you can control your fan speed based on the temperature you set for it to turn on. Below I added the diagram from the sv08 GitHub just as an additional guide. If you have any issues getting things set please let me know! github.com/Sovol3d/SV08/blob/main/Motherboard/MCU_PIN_definition.pdf

Thanks for watching!

That is on my to do list, upgrading to a 32gb mmc. The standard one is 8gb I believe, not much to work with. Do you have a lot of time lapses saved? I had to delete those, I recovered a good deal of space before my upgrade to mainline.

I approached that with the idea of options. If you have calipers use them, ruler that works too. If you don't feel like holding something there as you micro step a lego duplo happens to be a close enough size. Some could easily make a simple square, rectangle in fusion, solidworks and print it. I figured those that can do that would go straight to that. Thanks for watching, and I appreciate the support! What kind of stuff are you printing? Always curious to see what all everyone is working on?

​@@ThePrintasaurusjust pointing out the irony. Very thorough walk through. Not as flashy as some of the other sites, but your explanation and attention to detail exceeds most of them in my opinion. I print all sorts of stuff. I just got done doing 400 clips for Christmas lights. Yes all 400 fit on the plate. 20x20 grid.

​@@ThePrintasaurusI'm sure you know, but for your viewers... In orca slicer, -right-click on empty build plate -primitive -cube -scale to 20mm uniform No cad needed

@@spsully2582 Wow that is a lot of clips!! I to have a list of things for christmas to print for the kids and wife! I appreciate your opinion as well, that is what I aim to do. I want to make content that is easy to follow and helps people. Eventually I'll have some extra cameras to do all the extra stuff with!

Yes I had some curling initially, which I realize made it into my video. Wet filament was the culprit there. I had it break in the ams twice, soon as I dried it. Things went back to optimal and adhesion was back to what I was seeing throughout testing. Thanks for watching and thanks for the support!

Thanks for watching and the support! Very good question, just to add I am testing the micro swiss flowtech soon! I am a fan of the quick change nozzles, I think it adds a ton of versatility and makes the process fast. I have been playing around with the Beta Z-offsets for the eddy coil. The macros allow you to save Z by micro adjustments. So far I'm able to fine tune to an extent but I'm fighting the bed issues now too. The bed I have is far from level, and I'm looking into options to improve things there. Tap is one of my favorites for the reasons you have mentioned. Eddy has the advantage of speed, which is why I wanted to give it a shot. A load cell would be a good option to compliment eddy, I'm hopeful as things advance with Eddy that BTT will offer some extended features. I think it's got potential. The calibration process is lengthy, the temperature compensation is a welcomed addition with the USB version. Beacon is something I'd like to try next, all the feedback I have seen so far has been really positive. I just picked up a Orange Storm Giga, and I'm looking into the "blue storm" which pairs the beacon probe with a Chube hotend. I'll keep you posted on my progress with Eddy and the Sv08, I'd like to continue fine tuning and playing around with the beta macros to see if there is a "secret sauce" to getting things more dialed in and a process to make things more interchangeable. I'm going to run into this scenario when I start working with that flowtech. So I'll have something to create a workflow and finetune what I can to cut down on calibration time. I'll share that as soon as I get it figured out!!

@ThePrintasaurus Thanks for the thorough reply. Great to hear you are also considering the same aspects in this printer journey. I've subscribed to your channel, so I'm looking forward to updates on your experiences. Good luck!

I am not sure. I can email the representative that sent me these plates and get back to you.

@@ThePrintasaurus Thanks, I have 4 ender 3s and those sound great!

Yes the z offset is saving correctly now. That was one of the main driving factors to moving to mainline klipper. Ultimately to run a different probe (eddy coil). But z-offset was improved significantly. I use probe_calibrate, when you move to mainline you have to do a bit of work to get the sovol macros all to work - one that doesn't work right away after moving over is there calibration macro for the offset. Probe_calibrate is what I use on pretty much all my klipper printers, so I wasn't dependant on that macro working. I plan to go through and do a video on how to get them all configured correctly as I have had a few ask!

It measures right about 25.5"

I have had some filaments come in that weren't vacuum sealed as good as others, and have had to dry those. But for the most part most filaments are good out of the box. With the PLA Galaxy, I had one spool that printed perfectly, and the other did so after it dried! Thanks for watching, I appreciate the support!!

This one is way easier than the klipper upgrade too!

I had to reflash my eMMC today after a forced power stop when the z limit failed on me. It must have corrupted something on the eMMC. Redid everything but luckily did not have to flash the MCUs. Luckily I had a backup of all my files so it was much easier this time around. Only took about 30 minutes. .

No problem at all, happy to help!

Those are IKEA Alex cabinets that I cut down to 3 drawer units. Lowering them increased stability and still allowed some storage and I can move them around the room when I’m filming!

@@ThePrintasaurus They look very sturdy indeed. I need a few of something like this myself. I'd top with Granite. In my area there are a ton of granite quarries. Makes it really easy to get a slab for cheap. I have a nice work area already, but I need more dedicated spots for printers. Those look like a really brilliant solution to dedicating a space to a printer.

Thanks for watching and that is a great question! The X1C is definitely a level above the SV08 for sure in terms of ease of use and setup. Which is probably the largest difference between say a voron type printer / SV08 voron clone and the Bambu printers. The bambu's just work out of the box, you really don't need a ton of printing experience to have a great printing experience. The SV08 can be a good printer, that offers very similar quality of prints, it just takes some work to get it there. I have the SV08 and a voron 2.4r2 350mm and my Voron prints excellent (But that too is hours of testing and tweaking and upgrades). I will say the upgrades I've done so far inch the SV08 closer to a more expensive Voron 2.4 which is a good thing. If you want something to tinker with, has potential and you need the additional build volume the Sv08 isn't a bad choice. It's on sale now too for black friday / cyber monday so that makes it even more of a bargain. I'm testing some hotends to see if I can further improve print quality. Things are improving greatly, and the side comparison of the same print on the x1c and sv08 is getting harder to tell a difference.

⁠Thank you! Just knowing that it is possible to get them that close in visual print quality is probably good enough for me to take the plunge.. the price is definitely right. I just found your channel and enjoy these sv08 videos, thanks for taking the time and effort to make them and share your knowledge and experiences etc.

@@colinmsmall No problem at all! There will be plenty more videos on the SV08. I have been using it more and more lately.

​@colinmsmall very different animals. X1c basically needs nothing but only prints so big. Sv08 almost needs upgrading (if not need then definitely would recommend) but here's the real thing. You can make an sv08 print bamboo quality for way less time money and effort than you could dream of getting an x1c to print 350x350x340

Interesting. When did you receive your printer? Mine arrive in early August. I wonder if this is / was a QA check. I'm curious what Pin is assigned to your front fan? I went back and looked at my original print.cfg to make sure I wasn't crazy and it's PB0 - which is the top right, PB1 is the lower fan connector. So my SV08 appeared to ship plugged into the upper right pin!! Now I'm curious if others are experiencing this issue. I'm going to add the pin # for each location in the description so everyone can adjust as needed.

@@ThePrintasaurus mine is connected to PB1 . [fan_generic fan1] # front model cooling fan pin: extra_mcu:PB1 max_power: 1.0

@@Dutch1969 Thanks for following up. I'm going to add that information now, so whomever can use either if the configuration is different. Thanks!

@@ThePrintasaurus there are 2 location where you can plug in the cover fan. They are both Fan 3 PB0. If I could post a pic of all the connection I would. I will email it to you.

I received mine two weeks ago and was also connected bottom right

BTT is supposed to have a can verizon coming out, they currently have one that works with a nighthawk tool board. EBB36/42. BTT also has a duo out that I can't find any additional information on. That supports usb and can. I'm going to try and order one and see if that is an option. I can report back once I've tested and gotten familiar with the duo version.

@@ThePrintasaurusI would be interested in what you find out also.

Yes but it's not particularly easy. There's I2C on the probe pin header so you can use that and get 5V from somewhere else. Or a regulator on the 24V of the probe pins. I then had communication issues. There's an errata for the st chip used it the toolhead and the workaround didn't seem to work. I don't know what's going on but basically I got it to work by pulling the pins low at start, then pulsing the clock pin a bunch to shake loose the devices on the bus. The pull ups of the I2C bus of the Eddy was too weak so I changed those. And finally there's no temp sensor so I glued an LM75 to the eddy PCB and the I2C. It works well but I'd say it's not worth the hastle.

​@ThePrintasaurus SV08 toolhead doesn't have CAN, so not sure what you're talking about

​@@LovelyBertha-d6eis there really any benefit to the temperature sensor, since you're using the z-endstop for homing anyway? The bed mesh will just be applied to the endstop position, relative to the zero_reference_position

I have not gotten the "mcu eddie unable to connect" yet. I will keep an eye on that. I did not attempt to modify my usb cable, so I wonder if the quality of the shielding isn't good, or if it's shielded at all!! I'll drop a link if I can find a higher quality cable that is cost effective and see if I can do a video on converting to those for the tool head and eddy. Thanks for sharing that information. My plan with this printer is to do a series of upgrades to improve reliability and performance.

@@ThePrintasaurus The shielding is the conclusion that was reached on GitHub discussion.

Hey there! I got this error periodically. It makes my butt hurts when long print fails. I'm running Neptune 4 Plus with Eddy USB. I'll try cores, hope it works.

@@blaine_th3_mono I haven't had an issue since sticking the ferrite core on the usb and my hotend umbilical. The latter was just for good measure to be honest. I hope it sorts it out for you

@@Hotkife Hi! I installed ferrite cores on every interface cable (eddy, usb hub) and carefully would say that as for now have no issues on two long time prints.

The ST Link is what you use to communicate with your EMMC to flash your klipper firmware to. Without it, I'm not sure of a easy way to get your image/firmware on the EMMC chip.

Hopefully that strike is over soon, if not already. I'm sure you are excited to try those new plates! I have a bambu Supertack that still hasn't come in, but will test when it does. My go to plates now are the Glacier, I'm going to revisit after a few hundred print hours and do a comparison to the PEI plate I typically used to see how well they have held up. I'll incorporate the super tack plate as a test to that as well!

Did you get your plates? Curious how things are going.

@@ThePrintasaurus no strike is still on for the bambu plates, and I ordered from biqu website on 22 nov and it says usually takes 25 days but hopefully sooner.

@@ThePrintasaurus took 21 days to arrive but the glacier plates are in my possession still no bambu plate yet.

@@thefriendlessgamer8552 Finally! I have been using the bambu supertack profile lately with the glacier plates and things have been working great!

Thanks for giving my videos a look!

Is it the belts or the stepper motors? The steppers are a bit louder than my Ldo stepper motors on my voron. These have a high pitch sound to them. I’ll look into what can be done and get back to you!

@ sovol has been recommending me things to make it quieter and the latest is changing the belts. I feel like it’s a mix of both but I’m new to serious printing like this so idk.

@ also to note I don’t see a lot of complaints on how loud the machine is. Idk if I’m just crazy or my machine needs tweaking. I was planning on building a cabinet to put it in with sound dampers lining it. But if I can get the machine somewhat quiet without that then I’d be down.

Mine makes a brrt noise from the belts rubbing I think. It's quite loud

What did you end up doing? Did sovol have any further recommendations? It is louder than my other machines, but I’ll admit I never really notice as I usually have multiple printers running at any given time.

Yeah that one was a new lense. Slowly building out my filming equipment and some things are working better than others! Thanks for taken a look and checking out my content! Take care.

I really like the glacier so far over my pei build plate. I would say go for it! It’s a very good build plate.

I am testing ABS now on the Glacier build plate. I have used Bambu, and Polymaker for testing so far, at the recommended manufacturer bed temps. Both have stuck without issue, so far good adhesion. I'm going to walk back temps and continue to test till adhesion fails or I have warping issues with the ABS. So far things are looking great with ABS. I'll move onto ASA after a few more test cycles.

Hello! Yes no problem at all, I actually just ordered the bambu super tack the other day. When that comes in I can compare the three plates. Supertack vs Glacier vs Frostbite.

I have the SuperTack and it's already peeling after like 3 prints. The adhesion is too good, so I'd avoid printing things with a big flat bottom...they sent me a replacement but I'm probably just gonna sell it lol

@@xKenn Thanks for sharing, so far I have about 100 hours or so on these cyrogrip plates and I have not had any quality issues yet.

@@ThePrintasaurus From my own experience I find that hard to believe. I was printing PLA at their recommended temps for both the nozzle and bed, yet it still peeled off the coating. Never encountered such problem with their PEI plates. Honestly, I hate how the CryoGrip blue color looks on the A1 but I might have to give it a try...

@@xKenn I have been using the Glacier as my primary plate at this point, and I have not had the quality issues mentioned. I did receive an "early" plate, I wonder if something happened in the manufacturing process? I saw on one of the forums someone with the Frostbite had what looked like hair under the coating. Now that the supertack plate is out, I have been using that profile in Bambu Studio with my Glacier plate and have had a lot of success printing with it. With the X1 I just leave the build plate detection off. But I have been using the standard temps with it and have not had any lifting or plate issues. I hope this does not become the trend, I have had a few already mentioned some issues with the supertack quality as well. As an added bonus - we lost power yesterday for about 3, 3.5 hours. I lost a print on my pei plate because it released, but the glacier the parts stayed in place and I was able to resume that print and save it. So there is a lot of potential in these coatings for sure. I just hope if there is a current quality issue on the plates they have released now that it gets resolved. I'll email BTT and mention these concerns too.

Hoping to have that shortly after thanksgiving. Working through some printed parts and fine tuning.