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@@horacewashington Thank You for watching! Hope you’re able to get your RC car soldered up beautifully 😁👍🏼

@@zalingonzalez3351 Any metal on metal anti-wear grease should be suitable. I have used this grease before just fine. www.rollinggaragerc.com/product/protek-rc-premier-white-friction-noise-reducing-gear-grease-lubricant-10ml-ptk-1412/2368?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=true

@@fmarebelz2220 Yes sometimes they will screw in a bit off at first since you’re basically cutting the first threads into plastic but will straighten out once you get enough threaded in. As long as you’re not running an alignment that causes the ball cup to be barely threaded on the turnbuckle you should be ok.

@@joeschmo2315 Thank You. Keep an eye on the channel for a future video where I overview my personal car which actually isn’t the RD2.0.. 😉

@@anuar.m.y Unfortunately I don’t own that setup

@@krazykrn9066 I don’t but I wouldn’t recommend doing it 😂. Drilling carbon can be a little dangerous but if you do, measure twice, drill once. Also note that this modification would only be compatible with this lower chassis plate and other similar ones. You can maybe move the servo slightly further back on an original plastic deck but not the battery.

@@taimaishu-nao1922 Hoping to change the narrative with this one. I think I can do it! 💪🏼😁

@@JAM-vu3ol Due to the new heatsink motor plate that went on this car, I was unable to mesh the factory 22/80 setup so I decided to keep the stock 80T spur gear and bump the pinion up to 29T, giving an FDR of 8.28. Gearing will mainly depend on your track surface and size. With our track size increasing a lot, most of us are lowering our FDR.

@@ToddEB Not all of them from what I remember finding. The Speed setting is lacking on the 4PM but available on the 7 and 10PXs.

@@duatamn24 As long as it works? 🤷🏻🤣

@@JoinRCFeed We have hosted a few pop up tracks at events at Thunder Hill before! Everyone we bring to those events usually has a custom built car of their own 😁

Nice. You should check out my new rc builds website RCFeed, I could really use some car build post. You can add parts link to your store with the sites build system!

@@Frank-o8h Different devices can offer a different feeling past what just a bigger capacitor can offer. You don’t know unless you try it! 😁👍🏼

@@wolfken3812 No I don’t. I have held one wheel in my hand and increased RPMs until I could feel it start to lock up and spin but not a very scientific way of testing that.

@@KwasDriftTenGoku Thanks for watching and hope you find some fun in the hobby after all these years! You probably saw a lot of these cool bodies when they were still available 😁👍🏼

@@devourmsi 😂

gem!

@@zoltanfarkas3880 Lots of people had Overdose version 3 10.5Ts this year. Good luck finding one for sale as they are becoming increasingly hard to find for sale as well as selling upwards of $350+ for 10.5T versions.

@@georgeschidiac9125 I’m not sure as I don’t race buggies but you can try the CB700, CT701 or 702.

I showed an improper tightness at 9:55. Your differential will unload all the power and your tires won’t move very fast or at all.

@@vn6- For an absolute beginner building their very first car, I would say because of the fixed length suspension link and solid spool differential that the RDX is a bit easier of a build. It is pretty marginal though and as long as you know how to use a set of calipers or can match lengths to the manual, building the RD2.0 turnbuckle links is not all that difficult. Building the oil filled differential I think is not any harder than building the oil filled shocks which both cars require. Instructions for both cars can be found on each company’s websites if you were looking to check those out before making a decision. 😁

@@GernotRametsteiner-e5w Thanks for watching!

@@flatlander7288 It should not. I typically haven’t had any interference issues using the GYD550 gyro with Acuvance on s.bus. I do not have any experience using Castle’s s.bus equipment.

@ Thanks. Looking into another chassis. I might give Acuvance a try this time around.

@@flatlander7288 It’s a good setup. Very smooth, very convenient to tune with lots of parameters to adjust to your liking.

I will probably give it a try. Thanks again.

Thanks for watching!

@@renzlexterevangelista7632 Bret uses an RD/SD2.0. You can see a short clip of his chassis in my SDC Worlds 2024 video! th-cam.com/video/roNS6sPYvOE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=WE22SZXXfOdLTjmr

@@joehorn85 Thanks Joe! We are just as excited as you are!

@ definitely excited to see the new track when it’s all done!

@@midnightdriftn Can’t wait to see you driving on the new track Markus!

@ yea me too I’m coming this Sunday for track day.

@@chaosfruitbat5970 I haven’t. I’m usually very conscious of heating the ESC and will let the ESC cool down between soldering terminals if I have to.

@@14basketbaby14 I used the Acuvance Blaze Capacitor, Pulse Master and COA 5G for this Device Station

@@Bziiit. 😁😁

@@andymota1633 Maybe it’s time for a new tip. An improperly tinned tip will not allow heat transfer well enough to melt solder efficiently.

Could I send u mine lmao I’ll def pay

@@RollingGarageRc okay will look into it thanks !

@@andymota1633 DM our Instagram

@@RollingGarageRc just dm you thanks 🫡

@@oxypillix Ok thanks for your comment 😁👍🏼

@@taimaishu-nao1922 Sure is! He came by Rolling Garage during a business trip a couple of times 😁

@@datkieu2462 I have not had that issue and I have even used that servo before. When setting neutral point and limit settings through the gyro manually don’t forget to power cycle the ESC to save the settings when finished.

@@RollingGarageRc you mean restart the esc power right?

@@datkieu2462 Yes after you set neutral and end points manually on the gyro.

@@thelofinetwork You pretty much only need a 1.5mm driver, 2mm driver and a 7mm for wheel nuts if they’re original Yokomo nuts. Our driver set covers all needed sizes! www.rollinggaragerc.com/product/rolling-garage-5-in-1-driver-kit-hex-1-5mm-2-0mm-2-5mm-nut-5-5mm-7-0mm-/3067?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=true

@@anuar.m.y Of course. I see a lot of drivers now getting into the competitive side of things. Trying to better their driving and tuning and maybe it’s just to be able to keep up with the top drivers in their area but there’s nothing wrong with keeping this as a fun, casual hobby and just going out there and driving. No matter how fast or slow you are. 🙂

@@anuar.m.y I know Steve tries to change the layout right before comps to break the muscle memory of the locals and I would credit him for that but locals will always have a home court advantage there with familiarity of surface handling and consistency. All you can really do as a driver is be familiar with your car and adapt your driving to the comp layout that day. I wish you luck in your future competition journeys and keep driving!

@@house530 Thanks for watching!