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9/1/24 I got a new Assy. From Amazon for $17.

thanks for attention to detail in your videos. you da man

Would you happen to know the part numbers to the actual bearings?

Came here to say soft jaws

Where do you get the rebuilding kit for the Pitcock?

I know this is an older video but I recently purchased one of these as a project bike and it didn’t cross my mind when I bought it but the dude who I bought it from took it out and I’m thinking that’s why it has no spark, could that be it?

The last movement prove what i presume: you don’t grease the bearing of the Rotor! Not on the carbonside even the gearboxsite. Thats makes the „yelling“ … and also i presume that the rough Noise indicates that the Centergear is NOT in the Center of the Planetos. The Idleamps of those Starters shut be araound 25 Ampére +/-5 Amps after the Service and the shut Sound like a Turbine and not that rought like this Fellow. Even you not swop the Buschings. I do Starters since 40 years and i recoment: don’t do this Job not without a Lathe. Only exeption: under Fire in the Desert ;-)

Hilarious and informative. Glad to have a vice.

thank you

Saludos desde Nicaragua

Soft jaws are $10

Where did you get the newer one-piece bearings? I've got a xj650 and want to be sure I get the right size.

Can I get some part #'s . I got rebuild kit from K&L but it didn't come with the new screen...

Hi there question, when you removed the gas cap from the tank did your key work to unlock it? I've lost the key to my 82 xj650 and im trying to figure out if I can remove the cap without drilling through it? Thanks!

Really sucks this is such an annoying fix. I need to do the bearings on my XJ650 but keep putting it off.

Thank you for repairing my xj900 starter

This video should have more likes

Wow, good attention to detail man. That video was super relaxing glad I watched it

FOR ANYONE LOOKING FOR THIS EXACT PETCOCK!!!! IT IS PART NUMBER 15R-24500-00-00!!!! IT IS NOW AN OBSOLETE PRODUCT!!!! What you want instead is a 33M-24500-00-00. I can't find a rebuild kit for my 15R, so I'm guessing I have to buy a new 33M.

Need to do this with my XJ650 soon. The previous owner made a mess under the seat and most wires are joined with wire nuts. There has to be a similar style fuse box that fits under the seat though right?

Looks like the same one on my Seca, which is pissing gas like a bastard. Good to know it looks doable!

where did you get the rebuild kit ? I specifically can't find that in tank fuel filter

DO YOU NEED TO TALK A LITTLE (LOUDER)!!!!!!! WHAT CAN'T HEAR YOU!!!!!

Just got a Yamaha 1982 maxium will be doing this.

Great video very clear and precise instructions, thanks.

Great video!!

Are you using a torque wrench to remove the bolts? Mine specifically recommends against that use. Thanks for the videos though.

Note: To anyone doing this job, you should be able to buy new RDX fuel pump assemblies online, for less than $200. Or you could purchase just the pump for around $30 and use the old housing, some of the kits come with filter and everything else you need for the job. Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video.

Uh, followed your video, now my starter motor spins backwards. Indexes are aligned perfectly... what is happening? What could have made the direction of the motor change? I am 100% confident the body is aligned properly.

Any chance this process is the same on a 2013 model?

I have a 79 - 82 Yamaha SECA turbo from American Turbo Pack. Informative video

Or buy a length of square tubing from hardware store. It holds the inside just great while undoing bottom bolt

3 years later and I just used this to change coils and spark plugs on my 07 RDX. I even dropped my 10mm on the bolt you dropped something on. Followed this to a T 😂 Thank you for this video, sir.

This is clever! Thanks for the great advise!

Do you know the sizes

would this be similar to the mdx?

What position should my petcock be in when parked, there’s no “off”? I’ve an ‘81 Virago XV750

Hi, my xj650 has everithing the same but patrol leaks through that tinny hole 8:52 Any advice? I have disasamble it few times and back

A bit of a soft talker. Good video. Thanks

When I did the seals on my 650 Seca, I left the fork tubes bolted in the upper and lower trees and disassembled and reassembled the forks on the bike. Just broke the allen screws loose before removing the wheel. I made a tool like yours.....piece of all thread and a 3/4" (19mm) nut welded on either end.

What's easier the compressor/ clutch together vs clutch

hi mate you have a new subscriber!! i have a YAMAHA XJ9OOS 84 model! and looks not working correctly the faucet probably i need buying a kit for rebuilding the faucet gas!! anyone knows were its possible buying that kit?? have on ebay?? thanks fellas great vedeo great explain mate cheers from norway!

Great video... but, with a note. Your XJ750 is the "easy" model to modify. I have the XJ750RK/Baby Venture, as the name is factory placed on the trunk. Mine has the full factory fairing, hard panniers, and trunk.

Hey bud, I much recommend the bucket depressing key. It's easy life!

Just had this exact problem with my XS400, the main fuse was heating up and melting the plastic without blowing 🤣 ... a simple blade fuse ebay replacement and one less problem 😎

Nice but you never show us specifications fuse box ,where to buy,,positive and negative where come from,,,but ok anyway

Dude your awesome will subscribe to every video just cause your working on the bike I’ve been tryna get info on to work on my self

Awesome SLF t-shirt by the way!

Replaced my RDX's A/C clutch and coil in only a few hours, mainly thanks to the tricks in this video. Thank you! Some notes: * A standard 4" 3-jaw gear puller worked to effortlessly pull the pulley off. Much better than the 2-jaw in the video. * I found the right circlips pliers to use, but the inner circlip was pretty stuck and broke the nib. I had to loosen the circlip a bit by working it with a flathead screwdriver before trying again with fresh tips ground in. So maybe make sure you can move the tips of the circlip around with a screwdriver before you throw the pliers at it, and you'll save yourself some grinding. * I didn't have to loosen any hose clamps in order to maneuver the compressor out to the top. It was certainly a bit tricky to navigate, though. ASINs of parts I ordered (in order of project-specific to reusable): * Clutch assembly: B07TDLJYNG (re-used the old circlips and nut, and added one of the provided washers in addition to the old washer to get the spacing right) * Clutch holder: B004KEFCPU * Circlip pliers: B07MTRF2PF * Gear puller: B06XPNBN19 * Serpentine belt tool (I didn't have one): B0002WSFTO

Do you have to disconnect the battery before you take it out?