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It won't help the decal curve around rounded surface though, this will

I don't think it impacts the adhesive properties as much as it makes the water slide working time longer and they softens it further so the decal shrinks more to the surface for a painted on look

That goes without saying...

Did this today 😂

100%, which is why I started using small painter pallets and pouring a small amount out into a well, then putting the cap back on those bottles or I will do that every time lol.

That's why i always have doubles or triples in terms of washes, paints, and decal based products like Mirosol/Set.

He’s a pro at this, he knows how to edit that part out.

It’s the Theme Song from Chars Counterattack (Gundam)

Micron pens use non-reactive archival ink, so they’ll never interact with the plastic. Their biggest downside is they can take 24-48hrs to cure.

Agreed. NO TOOTHPICS. A Q-tip or pencil with an eraser. Use the eraser.

I know it's a late reply, but yes you can use just the micro sol by itself. I purchased both and have only used micro sol the majority of the time

No, it can be applied to painted surfaces.

The revive version

I find between cold and lukewarm helps

the last time I did decals I used cold water the only difference I think of is just the time you have to wait for the decal to slide off easily but I believe it's only a matter of seconds really

Yes it is, would also say gloss over once you have applied them to fully seal the decals

Thank you means alot!! I will be becoming more active again working on a new video atm.

@@prometheusgunpla8444 looking forward to it! 😄

Not that I have found, I have been using these pens for 10 years plus with no issues on any of the plastic kits I have built.

Hi the micro sol softens the waterslide allowing it to adhere to awakward surfaces, the set then makes it harden faster to the new shape. But still best to go over with a topcoat to seal the transfer.

@@prometheusgunpla8444 what about flat surfaces? is really the Micro Sol useful or just a waste of time?

@@Tommy27ZB I think it dissolves the transfer medium leaving only the printed area thus eliminating any edges.

Apart from the fact he used a tooth pick and the finish was perfect. But yeah.

Thank you, happy you enjoyed it. 😁

Thank you. As for the joints I would take your time on the elbow and knee joints. Test fit and sand the joints a little at a time till you get a snug fit with out it being to tight. The other joints on the kit were fine for mine but if at any point you have to force parts together stop and give them a little sanding. Hope this helps. And sure you will enjoy the kit.

Hi , Yes you can. It would probably be easier with posing to us one of the HG versions, as the RG can be a bit of a pain took a few trys to get mine lined up just right.

@@prometheusgunpla8444 thank you so much! Appreciate the reply!

Definitely is forgiving and if you seal it with a matt top coat will give the look that it painted. Well worth the low investment. Its still one of my go to ways to panel line after many years of building models of all types.

If it's a gel pen Do not It will spread through the plastic Just tellin

Nice one! Thanks i will look to get some sepia . Nice to hear good things especially for simple weathering. 😁

Hey this was a pre order on release . If you hunt arround an ebay on buyee you should be able to get one . There are a few about shipping from Europe and the USA around.

I have topcoated 90% of my kits thst have been pannel lined with these pens and holds up great , I use Mr hobby uv flat and gloss coats.

​@@prometheusgunpla8444thanks for the video. Total newbie here but I have microns. Do you use the spray version of this topcoat? Do you apply both types of top coat or just one?