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Yes it does but they are smaller and are made to go onto ESU's board, which I ripped out and went 3 soundtrack cubes & Tsunami 2. It is built very well. Did you get the B&O as well?

@ I got the CSX 2013 with ESU sound. I would like to get a B&O unit as well and patch it for CSX

@@Plymouth-Interlocking This is my 1st Rapido and very well made as well but I don't like the fact that you can only have or add the Esu 21 pin decoder, if you use anything else, some of the lighting functions won't work.

@@Plymouth-Interlocking have you tried function 21, 22 or 23 yet? I don't like that.

@@christopherbrown5338 no I haven’t, I’m guessing that is the weird stuff I’ve heard about like a song or something? I guess I don’t care for that either. But they sure do sound nice other wise.

Yes, they are all on my page starting with- th-cam.com/video/1U7L3YnrxQ4/w-d-xo.html

Thanks, is the Sd 40-2 the only Chessie Scale trains make?

I have sound in all my engines & many of my cars, along with lights. I don't want anything cutting out.

@@christopherbrown5338 So if you have a loco sitting on the siding, you want it making noise? Why? Didn't the proto have an engine sit on a siding dead?

Yes, because that's what they do or at least the ones I've seen. Using just the points on the switch is not a good way to power a section.

once you discover DCC you will delete your comment :)

With DCC you have total control of lights, sounds and can operate many engines on the same track. A model T Ford may get you where you want to go but with all the electronics that run our vehicles today (along with A/C), isn't it a much more pleasurable experience taking a trip in a newer vehicle.

@@christopherbrown5338 modern vehicles, no. I'm a mechanic and I won't touch anything newer than maybe 2002 at best. I think modern vehicles are going to be an enormous blight in less than 10 years time. We're going to have circuitry that's no longer manufactured and no longer serviceable, behind OEM paywalls that are going to have entire vehicle systems disabled because something is wrong with the radio. Skyrocketing the cost for no good reason in my opinion As for these trains, I bought a Menards one and it's lasted me 2 days roughly. Could just be defective but, I think I'm going to look for something really old. Maybe a 1980s Lionel

@@beardedgaming1337 I have a 2000 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 2007 Honda Accord & 2011 Honda CR-Z. I agree with newer vehicles, seeing more and more plastic under the hood. I really enjoy HO scale, have since my first train set in '77. If you are only going to have one or two, a power pack & some track is just fine. But as for me, I really enjoy taking things to the most realistic level I can. Check out my forty car coal train where every 7th car has sound in it so you hear the clicky-clack, flange squeal and even the brakes when applied. - th-cam.com/video/iuTuWLcpdLk/w-d-xo.html

@@christopherbrown5338 I'll check it out, I'm going to return this train to Menards tomorrow and get a replacement. Maybe it's just a bunk unit. Otherwise I'm going to look at picking up some old school stuff that just runs direct transformer

Are yours Chessies? Would love to see them. Scale trains does the same thing, having a special board to control the class lights. I'm about to wrap up mine and will do a final video. If you have enough track, speed matching shouldn't be hard. Put one you consider the main on the track and one you want to speed match to and set each at the same display speed. Use programming on the main to make adjustments on the fly and you'll get real-time changes as they both are running. I would suggest "start/mid/high" for simplicity.

You need to drop more feeders. Where? Where you are losing power.

Um,...because I wanted to.

Why did you want to subscribe to my channel?

Plastic should be no problem. Form the wire with a bench vise and for the tighter bends, I put the wire in some needle nose and then put the needle nose in the bench vise (careful not to tighten too much & break the needle nose). And just carefully hammer it over. I should draw it up so there would be dimensions.

www.amazon.com/dp/B000R5IASC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

8

Yes. The bulb are the same brightness but on low beam a straight arn drops into place and you can see the cut off edge. It's so you don't blind on coming drivers. My set up is a bit custom but well worth it.

@@christopherbrown5338 okay I understand now Do you have link for harness and bulbs?

@@albertquintero5412 This is the projector kit- www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-mini-d2s-5-projectors?quantity=1

This is the H1 ballast- www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-d2s-35w-xb-hid-ballasts?quantity=1

This is the H1 bulbs (I got the 4300K) color- www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-d2s-35w-xb-hid-bulbs?quantity=1

I wish you would have seen my video & comments about them before purchasing. Once they get your money they won't help you. I wish they would go out of business!

My mistake was I believed what their website said. Basically, bait & switch.

@@christopherbrown5338 what did their website say that was untrue?

I bought the electronics, modeled all parts in solidwork 3D CAD software and had someone 3D print the parts.

Blue Driver - www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Your fuel pressure should be 38-44psi. Mine was 41psi but hesitated horribly on a snap throttle. Also checked the blue/orange wire under the driver side back seat with a clamp style volt meter (www.amazon.com/dp/B08MTCMWLB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). Mine read 4.7 amps. With 41psi fuel pressure & 4.7 amps, I shifted my focus when I saw the MAF sensor randomly jumping around. Should read about 3 g/s at idle and about 10 g/s at 2500 rpm, mine went to 22 g/s and would not go over 2000 rpm for a short period, but 5 minutes later was fine. I replaced the MAF (www.amazon.com/dp/B004J398Y8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). I did replace the fuel regulator prior which helped some but was not the main problem. I changed the fuel filter also because I did not know how old the current one was. My 4runner starts & runs great now.

Sounds like you dealt with someone else and that is good because I've never had worse dealings with a company in my life.

I believe the guy said he used all metal joiners on everything and soldered them as well. Did you figure it out yet?

Yeah, mine can adjust for both

Probably because buying from them was a bad experience.

@@christopherbrown5338 I know that most of the buyers who've talked with Tina have had bad experiences with her. By chance, have you ever talked to Cortney before? I've talked to her through the chat box and she seems pretty nice. Also, looking at some other posts, Tina doesn't seem like much of a bad person, but I could be wrong.

Glad it helped

Soundtrack Tsunami 2 as shown in the video

TSU-21PNEM8 Others. You can use that with the factory pcb.

Sometimes

Had to adjust the throttle cable but it's still a bit tricky to start. TriGreen Murfreesboro, TN charged $50 to take it for a week & said there was nothing wrong with it. It was brand new, you would think the warrantee would cover any cost.

@@christopherbrown5338 I just picked up a 2021 z530m today and I can’t get it started

@@codyschutjer5725 I do know I put the throttle & choke on full and as soon as it begins to start I have to pull back the choke all the way quick or it won't start

@@christopherbrown5338 thanks

They just want to get it out the door, they don't care how long it lasts.

Doesn't surprise me

Intermountain. The bottom comes off but it is glued so you have to be careful.

Lol

I don't know of other cabinet makers but I would do some research & avoid Arcade Mod Up / Game Room Solutions

@@christopherbrown5338 Thanks.

Sad truth is... There are VERY few affordable options out there. Most places charge absurd prices starting around $2,500 for the most basic mame cabinet, and upwards for $4000 for a really good one. Mame arcade cabinets are not worth cheap used car prices obviously. So your left with either... 1. Building your own machine cabinet and all from scratch. (Cheapest but VERY time/effort intensive. You'll need a workshop/garage.) 2. Finding existing older cabinets locally and modding the hell out of it to get it the way you want it. (Cheap but time/effort intensive.) 3. Arcade1up/arcade legends modding. (Modestly expensive, somewhat time/effort intensive, not a great final experience as they tend to be undersized.) 4. Paying out the a** for a really good custom made cabinet. (You need to be rich, no effort, LONG wait times of about half a year or more.) There really isn't a "great" option out there, just varying degrees of bad to "meh" ones. Cheap crap, or overpriced quality stuff, take your pick. Personally... I'm leaning towards buying an arcade legends cabinet to throw away almost all of it aside from the shell, $400+tax from a local sams club, so no paying $500 for shipping. Then completely building up from scratch the way I want it. Not a great option, but the best I can find currently.