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Unfortunately, I have the same problem on my BX2. I recently, couple of months, noticed the right chanel on playback of a pre-recorded tape was 1to 2 decibels above the left. I did a recording while setting the levels equally, making sure any loud passages read the same and no problem. Playing it back was the same with the right chanel again. To be fair, I've had the deck since the mid eighties and all I've done in that time is change the idler on two occasions and the main belt on one occasion. It's periodically cleaned regards the usual heads, pinch roller and capstan. I don't have any special equipment but is there anything you can suggest I do regards tweaks, adjustments etc?

dude ur an absolut boss sharing ur exp with us. i never comment on YT but there u go.

Hi what is your username on eBay as I'd like to buy a deck I know had been refurbished properly..thanks !!

28:44. NO. IM THE AMERICAN GUY WHO. HAS 4MILLION PEOPLE WATCHING EVERYTHING I DO. AND I STARTED WATCHING YOU. SO IF YOU KEEP ME HAPPY YOU WILL GET 100K SUBS. I LIKE OLD 70S SILVER DECKS MAINLY N

what app are using to calibrate?

The CD player you have partly showing, is it the NAD 5440?

Those are not copper instead those are brass screws possibly

excellent vid very well done ,I have a Garrard at-60 lab series has evrything that that one has except it is a muliplayer which I like it came with a shure cart but had and old empire from the 70's which i thought would look good ,the only complaint I have is that you saying 3.5 grams of tracking force on a record will destroy the record which is false records were meant to be able to take the most 9 grams of force the record would not last long if played every day but it would not destroy the record thats a misconception ,my father had the bsr TT with a ceramic cart in it and they track at 5 to 6 grams i have one of the albums he played on it it still plays clearly but since he did not know about record handling it is very scuffed up but it plays still ,also that anti skate lever on the side is adjustable and you cannot assume that the antiskate was too harsh cause the head shell was missing ,with the missing head shell it is going to have a lot of push when it gets to the end cause of the tone arm not having head shell as a person doing these tuttorial vids I believe you should know more about what you are saying before going on line to teach or tell how to fix something a lot of people who want to learn or start into record players are counting on you for the most accurate of info when you start saying incorrect info that's is not good and I also have heard that these type of turntables are supposed to be low end but my TT tracks at 2'0 grams antiskate is perfect there is no rumble when playing records I was able to get all the speeds down to perfection compared to my audiotechnica atlp-120 turntable which is supposed to be better and well isolated if I tap the base when playing a record who will hear the noise or rumble this is supposecd to be a better TT than this one but I disagree ,note no disrespect intended but I am tired of hesaring these so called expert aduiophiles spewing misinfo that they only heard but never tested ,I was an audiofool only repeating what I heard and swearing that was only way to go but I have disproved all those stupid ideas and found the truth JRo

I've had an Ariston RD40 for decades and use it every day, as you will see on any of my vinyl posts, the turntable has a wonderful blend of design over quality making it quite unique. I have on occasion thought about upgrading to a Lynn SP25, a turntable that has some distant Ariston Audio DNA in its design..... PS, I live in Irvine, about 10 miles from Prestwick where these turntables were assembled, the platters etc were manufactured somewhere in the Glasgow area for Ariston.

The capstan motor only constantly runs on the 611s if the deck is on, it's a feature to speed up the operation of the deck, personally I think it's a silly idea, I have a 611s and tck590 both have the same transport and both run thier capstans when the machine is on, I prefer the 590 as there's something old school about have the cassette well on the left rather the in the center and the 590 has a fl display dimmer and off function which i use, it matches in with the rest of my early 90s Sony set up, I fitted a micro switch on my 590 which which shuts down the capstan motor when you press stop and activates it when you press play, I was lucky enough to got given box of new original capstan motors for these decks so they will out last me.

he didn't check the azimuth again for forward playing. I bet it was way off

I just brought one of these two days ago and its started screeching STUPIDLY loud! Its not the tapes as they work fine in 4 of my 5 decks, its just this one. Reckon its the motors that need oiling?

Your videos are really awesome and give folks like me an inspiration to not be afraid to open our vintage cassette decks and try to bring them back to their original luster. At 71, I vaguely remember my first deck. It was able to flip the cassette and continue playing the second side. No it was not a Nakamichi, I think it was an Akai Invertomatic!, Model CS-50. My first 3 head deck with Dolby C I bought in 1984, a JVC KD-V6 which I still have. Recently I got the vintage cassette decks bug. Oh No. After many years wanting to buy a Nakamichi, I finally bought my first one (they always seem to be out of my budget). I found a BX-300 which considering is about 40 years old, still plays and records nicely. When first turned on, pressing rewind seems to skip/slide a second then kick in. Playing a cassette right after powering on, can cause a tape to be chewed. Forwarding a tape all the way then rewinding then forwarding, basically warming the deck, solves the issue. I can then play tapes all day long and no chewing! I removed the cassette plate and looked at the idler wheel and it looks pretty thin. I already ordered a replacement. Can a bad idler wheel cause a tape to be chewed/eaten? I know it is related to the rewind/FF but not sure if it impacts playback. Thanks again for the great videos. You have a new subscriber! Regards... Ralph

Nice ,Paul, I would love this deck

A popular cartridge for this deck was the Goldring G800😊

The mark 5 version of this turntable became belt drive😊

Orite pal do u know if you can use this kit to use for healing 528 hz ? And other . There is lots of folk selling ridiculous priced machines supposed to assist healing various health issues , different frequency for diff ailments . A guy called royal rife a long time ago allegedly had amazing results using various frequency to heal people im interested in experimenting but dont want to pay the crazy prices incase its a load of bollox. Your input on this would be massively appreciated

Whhhhhoooosssshhhhh over my head 😅

I put a set of M&PC Tech feet on mine

Cracking video! I've just replaced the belts on mine with the same kit you used. Perfect fit. When I reassembled mine, I had a screw left over. Realised a after watching your video, it's from the eject button 🤦‍♂️ I gave the heads on mine a good clean and used a demagnetiser but stopped short of cleaning and reoiling the motor and Capstan. I don't have any of the equipment to test mine like you used at the end of the video so God knows how optimal it is but it does sound great, to my ears at least.

Because of you i gained the confidence and managed to fix an aiwa ad wx929. Youre a great teacher and make excellent content.

Mine was working perfectly but now all of a sudden the sound became real quiet and muddy, might there something be wrong with the speaker and/or the player head? Please if you have any ideas what the reason for this might be? Any tips are much appreciated!

You can't sweep with it. I'm a Tesla coiler and I give it a thumbs down

Thanks much :)

I have the TC-KA2ES deck with this same issue. Unfortunately this video was not out yet so i went ahead and ordered a set of belts and a pinch roller on ebay from a seller on Slovakia. I managed to change them and I it worked fine for some time. After a few months I went to use the deck again a couple days ago and nothing works. No play, not FF and nor REW. Now with this video as a guidance I am going to take out and disassemble the transport and try to fix this otherwise great sounding deck.

Brilliant! Thanks mate

The Dolby FM button engages an MPX filter which improves recordings from the radio signal. The real Dolby button is the in/out switch next to the EQ switch but you don’t speak about that, or I missed that part.

Great video! Have you a link to the belts please as the link has expired. Cheers.

Ah yes! The tactile switches replacement. My favourite part during a tapedeck servicing.

If you liked this specific display, you are going to love the display on the CT 939

I have the bit older Mytek Brooklyn Bridge. And got myself an Ariston RD-40 turntable to connect to it. Music is good. But I can hear a low power hum in the background. I have a MM pickup and also set the Brooklyn to MM. Plus connected the Record Player's ground to the ground of the Brooklyn. Adjusting a bit on the knob on the ground, I can hear this is were I suspected the noise came from. Any idea how to remove that annoying low frequency hum/noise? BTW: I have connected the Brooklyn to an external power supply. Thanks.

At 40:40 you place the metallic sheet, called p-spring. On my ad f600 I can't set it correctly because the two flaps on the right black peg and the one on the left peg seem to be missing so p-spring is impossible to set. If you place it on one side it moves on the other... Could you please give me any suggestion on how to fix it?

Voice over works fine! Very good repair video, I like your style, and it's well lit.

Hello and thanks for putting this video on the tubes. I have an amp of same make but slightly newer that I picked up for cheap. I want to replicate your bulb setup, but it’s a little unclear how you have it wired and what sort of bulb it is (other than being red). Would love if someone knows and can enlighten me on this 🙏

So i have the exact minidisc player most discs olay with sound but 10 discs will either play and but have no audio while the rest while some just say error or wont play the disc but the rest of my minidiscs will play and play the audio so im asking anyone some help by asking do u think it could be just the 10 minidosvs have gone bad as the reat play ok and is there anyway to get the audio to olay from the bad discs or should i just bin the bad discs

Sony TC-K81 3-Head Cassette Deck is turnon, but no PLAY, FWD,RWND, but all licht are on, can you help Me Please

How increase output treble of my Sony 3 head deck 222esl , or should i hve to change the head or pinch roller

Sony TC-K81 3-Head Cassette Deck is not play FWD RWD, can you show how to fix it ????

That's crazy. This has taken me back literally 37 years. That's when I got mine 😮❤

Hello Paul, Thank you for the video. I just purchased one of these today. I was just looking for some information on operation before I tried it. I purchased it off of eBay here in Germany after finding it complete and everything working. I have been using the ultra sonic cleaning fluid for years and was wondering if I would be able to use it in this cleaner but you answered my question in this video. I heard you say you are in Scotland. Where about are you? My wife's family are near Oban, we travel there several times a year. Cheers.

Great work and thanks for sharing! Just picked up one of these beauties, which means maintenance time.

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏

The Clips that hold the TT to the plinth only need turning 90 degrees to the plinth base and inline with the screw and it will slide through the plinth, Garrard was one of two main Turntables the other being Midlands based Birmingham Sound Reproducers, my gfs Late mother worked at the Woolaston plant in Stourbridge, Garrard was the better quality of the two and were built at Newcastle st in Swindon, I would have put loads of grease inside the groove in the arm control cam, because it does take a lot of wear and tear and help prevent wear as the cam is Aluminium, the arm rest does have a peice broken off you may find that on ebay. Your deck looks great, My own deck is 60 years old at minimum and is affectionately known as the old girl, it is your decks older sister, this is her just after I completed the resto in 2009 when I managed to get the buscuit tin base that someone has painted by hand in emulsion, local garage to where i worked matched the colour of my beck and prepped and painted the base, and I think its beautiful www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/gallery/image/7259 Since then I have done a BSR Profesional range MP60 that hadnt been plugged in for 39 years, a Bang and Olufsen I found in a skip ( HONEST) A B&O Beogram 1100 and recently a Sherwood PS-9700 Well done on the resto, it looks amazing and I am sure you get a lot of pleasure playing records on it as I do on my old girl, WWW.VINYLENGINE.COM A free turntable site with lots of manuals and help when restoring your record deck/turntables

At 2 mins 55 ish as I'm turning the wheel, fingers are covered in a thick black paint like substance? Looks like rubber beltsconnecting the 2 wheels has perished and become this substance. At 3.13 can also see a grey wheel that should have a black belt on it as well, this has also perished. Are these available to buy?

It makes no sense at all to clean a record and put it back in an old sleeve

Thank you very much for this helpful video! There are very few videos about this particular model available. Thanks to it I've successfully repaired mine - it was stuck solenoid on the transport that prevented the head assembly from lifting up. Good work!

Thank you very much, I have the same issue with a 5030!

Ok❤🇮🇩💯✍️👍

A lot of people crap on B&O but no one else had one of their designs in the New York Museum of Modern Art Industrial Design section. Only B&O with the BeoMaster 3000-2. They were leaps and bounds ahead in the industrial design of any other audio company. Their BeoVox speakers were crazy looking. I restored a pair of BeoVox S45-2. They look and sound great.

From the colour it looks like a zinc die cast and the symptoms are typical for zinc plague. It's a flaw of the alloy (contamination, wrong ratio of components) and there's no way to stop the breakdown of the alloy. Many zinc toys from short after WW II suffer from quality problems of the zinc and also a lot of products from the 80s and 90s when production was moved to China. I know this (luckily not from personal experience) from model railroad products like many Märklin and Trix models of that time.