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The camera in my display case (the Rollei 35) is without battery, as I don't want to risk leakage, and even if I had a leakproof cell, by having the camera out in the open with light hitting it (it is, after all, a display case), the battery will wear down as you said. My other camera (the Rollei 35T) is in its zippered case, so I am keeping the battery + adapter in. I'm not too keen on option 3, because that likely is done by adjusting the two tiny trimmer pots, which some random folks on the Internet say are a point of failure. Best let sleeping dogs lie.

@@TadTadd As I noted, I had planned to install a voltage dropping diode (the same electric element as in the active adapter) directly in the meter battery circuit of my 35S, but the unplanned voltage adjustment during the CLA job will probably make that unnecessary. My fallback plan is to the same job on by Canon QL17 GIII, which is a more complicated job because it is harder to crack open the body and get to the meter circuit on the Canon.

My pleasure! In the time since I made this video I acquired a Mamiya C330. The C330 has the very same behavior if you hesitate on the shutter. With both cameras if the camera doesn't allow you to shoot but you know you didn't fire the shutter, the simplest fix is to turn the "multi exposure" knob, fire the shot, then turn the knob back to "single" and go on with your day.

@@TadTadd Im just bought the 220c so i am now ready for no black frames! thanks!

I don't blame you. This one works for me, though I really wanted the one with the little roller to work--it had accuracy, but unfortunately lacked in quality. If you are talking about pins or something to line up the cuts, my cameras all seem to have a very casual attitude about frame spacing. My Rollei 35 cameras are pretty bad at spacing, as are my Canon SLRs. Hence, nice guide pins would not work.

Unobtrusive and quiet is right. I absolutely will use these in church--a glance at my notes from prior B&W shots in the dimly lit sanctuary shows I'll barely be within the operating limits of this camera without pushing: 1/30s at f/3.5 ought to work with ISO 400 film. I'll have to hold it nice and steady!

As I am walking the streets of a nearby town taking half frame photos in grainy black and white on HP5 Plus, I consider the irony that my phone in my pocket will take better photos than anything I could possibly capture with my camera, and I can see them instantly. More irony? I use my iPhone for much of my video recording. We live in amazing times, where you are able to have an awesome digital camera that does far better than the cameras you used in the 60s and 70s. Use the tools that bring you joy! But I love the magic of film. I love the forced slowdown in the creative process. I love the look of film. I love the darkroom. It's like audiophiles who enjoy collecting and listening to vinyl--only the most zealous will claim that vinyl objectively sounds better; the others consider the imperfections and all of the trappings of vinyl as part of the art form.

@@TadTadd Enjoy your half frame film photography - I respect the fact that we are all free to choose our preferences - mine are digital cameras and Photoshop.

Thanks for the tip! I just found one on eBay, with M39 ring, and a Beseler 67c lens board, and snapped them up. Not very cheap ($150 for it all) but I shoot a LOT of half frame--I love the Pentax--so it's worth it to be able to use a more appropriate setup in my enlarger.

My 40mm Schneider lens arrived today and I did a few prints. It definitely brought the enlarger head down (18cm vs 28cm before) but I was surprised when I didn't see any improvement in the long exposure times. Then I realized that if I am filling the same 5x7 area to the top and bottom edges with light, it's not magically stronger light, it's just closer light, so any change in exposure times will really only be marginal. Still, I'm happy to be able to work with the head at a more reasonable height.

@@TadTadd my setup is a bit low brow (intrepid compact on a tripod), so the lower height really helps minimise vibration.

Glad to hear you are actively shooting yours! I have heard many good things about the Rollei lenses, but I don't have any lesser small 35mm cameras to compare them with (and I'm almost always shooting grainy HP5 Plus anyway) so for now I have to accept on faith that the lenses are a cut above the rest.

A very good analogy. I have a few nice Swiss watches that I have owned for decades and occasionally wear to work or church, but 99% of the time I'm wearing a Seiko, because it looks good and it always works. Besides, one servicing of my Speedmaster Professional costs close to $1k...I'm certain it's way overdue, but that kind of money can buy more cool film cameras!

Go for it!

I heartily agree. The parts wouldn't fit anyway: I noticed quite a few differences as I worked on these cameras. For one simple example, the backs cannot be swapped (these differences might be a 35 vs. 35T thing). Anyway, the second camera was meant solely for camera disassembly and reassembly practice.

The 35s were built in Germany and Singapore at one time or another. Germany first and Singapore not very long after. That's why the German made were more sought after.

@@michaelcase8574 The first version of Rollei 35 was built in Germany, all other models of Rollei, like 35S, 35T etc, was made in Singapore with lower quality.

I have a 55mm lens for my Mamiya C220, a twin-lens camera, and the viewing lens has a bit of haze. I disassembled it as far as I could, trying to clean out that haze. I eventually realized the haze was in the glue holding together a two-element sandwich. I might be daring, but I believe that regluing multi-element groups is above and beyond the call of duty (and possibly not doable outside of a lab). Argh! That haze will remain. At least it's in the viewing lens only!

Thanks! And yes, that's a fretless Fender Precision Bass, a true oxymoron. I take it to church about once a month, when I'm feeling courageous, and play a standard p-bass the rest of the time.

@TadTadd Ha ha, yes, that is an oxymoron when you think about it. I made the switch to fretless a couple of years ago but found it so hard that I stopped playing for a while. Just getting back into it and loving it's unique, expressive sound - and it's forcing me to be a better musician ! When I'm feeling a little more confident, I will re-join my church band.

Thanks! Things were a bit touch-and-go during the surgery. I'm still not sure I'm ready to glue the leather back down and call it done.

Thanks for watching!! It's so cool to hear from Chile! It has been a while since I did that video ,and I have been wanting to do a video about the Seeburg 1000 machines themselves for quite some time, so thanks for reminding me :-).

@TadTadd You're welcome!!! And a video about the Seeburg 1000 machines sounds like an amazing idea!!! I hope you do it soon!! Enjoy the weekend!! 🇨🇱🇨🇱

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Saudades de você também! ❤

That is an excellent idea; unfortunately, this is close as the macro lens I have will focus. I originally was planning on redesigning my copy stand bracket so I could mount the camera far enough away from the post for the negative holder to fit the other way, until I found the lens was the limiting factor. I suspect I could fiddle around with extension tubes, but as it turns out, I'm getting enough detail for my needs--these are "digital proofs" that I use for cataloging my photographs, and I do darkroom prints for the keepers.

@ intresting, thanks for clearing that up!

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Thanks for sharing some interesting details from the business! I lost touch with this industry when I joined the Navy, so I totally missed out on the last 35-40 years of progress. Sad to hear about the fading industry in the UK. I can't imagine that there is much of the industry remaining in the US either--certainly the automotive industry in Michigan (where I was) is a mere shadow of what it once was. One thing I didn't mention was how we would lay out the boards at the drafting shop using red and blue tape at 2x scale, red for one side, blue for the other, with black for the pads and other artwork. The boss's wife and another lady did this. My boss taught me how to do it, but said "I always have women do this because they don't leave fingerprints all over the mylar--they don't sweat as much as guys." The two halves of the industry I was involved in were affected by computers in very different ways: on the design side, CAD software and circuit layout software replaced the smart guy named Glenn who designed all of our boards. On the board production side, CNC replaced the two robust women at the circuit board shop who ran quad drills with pantograph setups drilling 4 stacks of boards at a time based on one good master board. I did a different "stone age technology" video if you like this sort of thing, talking about my days as a movie projectionist.

From one bassist to another, thanks!

Best of luck! Keep in mind that this only handles the "low gears" and not the "high gears"; fixing 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, and 1/15. But it's a pretty easy fix. Don't lose any of the hardware--maybe do the work on a white towel.

Thanks for the details and examples of options. I made the original video specifically for one guy who I wanted to help out, so was focusing on a thin path with minimal distractions for a beginner from point A to point B, with the idea that he will soon broaden that path. There are so many areas where one can tweak the development process and create their own style. Heck, just choosing what developer to use is part of the fun.

Wow, sorry to hear that! I would have never thought that silicon would ruin the developer. The accordion type is working well for me these days--when I made that video they were brand new and had too much springiness; now, they are just right. My developer lasted for somewhere between 10 and 20 rolls, at which point I replaced it, figuring that the per roll developing cost was only a few dollars at that point, and I didn't want to waste a roll to find out the developer was not working.

It definitely should be sent to a good watchmaker...but the base charge to simply open the back would be more than the cost of a new-to-me one on eBay. What a world we live in! Hey, last time it took a dunking was a couple of months back, so maybe it's got more life left in it.

Amém! Que Deus seja louvado!❤

Unfortunately not, film is much more sensitive than paper. Consider how photo paper takes many seconds of exposure to produce an image, while film only takes hundredths of a second. But all is not lost--if you or someone you know is handy with a 3D printer or if you wish to have a go at uploading the free .STL files to one of many online services, try the new gadget I posted about last week--it's a nifty way to handle the "fiddling around in the dark" issue.

I actually feared the photos would look pixellated like Minecraft! Fortunately the reality has been much better than that. In recent weeks I have been shooting TMax 100 and the grain is tight, so it does a good job on the 17. With that said, even grainy HP5 Plus retains its charm in the 17.

Cool. I need an acoustic bass like that. Regardless, I love the feel of flatwounds, so even with a bit of intonation trouble I'm going to keep them on the guitar.

I'll have to think about the best way to do that--on the one hand, it would be super cool to show the overall process for folks who are unfamiliar with it, but on the other hand it would be easy to make a crushingly boring video. What I would like to do is test a few online printing services and do a video showing how someone can download STL files and send them off to be printed.

Thanks, that pretty much guarantees that my next video will be subpar 😎!

If you don't have a 3D printer available, there's always my fallback technique: a 32-inch cutoff from a piece of wood trim and a completely dark room.

Thanks! I love 3D printing projects that actually do something practical. I hope that plenty of people are able to use this.

Bulk loading is great! I have a roll of HP5 Plus in my bulk loader right now. But I don't have rolls of TMax 100 or Gold 200 or Portra 400, hence the need to split rolls this way.

Praise the Lord! Thank you!

Glad to hear someone got something out of the "stick" method--in a pinch that always works. I'm curious myself about what the online folks do with multi-piece prints. I know they are quite competitive for other things--someone sent one of my little two-piece light meter cases for printing and I think they paid around $15. If you do this, don't forget to get the knob (that's linked in my model) and have that printed at 100% infill, the rest in 20-25% infill.

Thanks! Glad to hear you made it to the story of the lady. That really did put an extra skip in my step that day.

Hope it works out for you!