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The Salty Repairman
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2011
Radiator Replacement 1979 Chevy G10 Van
Replace a radiator in a 1979 Chevy Van G10 on a 350 SBC.
Thermostat replacement and flush are part of the replacement.
Thermostat replacement and flush are part of the replacement.
มุมมอง: 2 667
วีดีโอ
Dual Exhaust Installation 1979 Chevy G10, Side Discharge
มุมมอง 2.8K3 ปีที่แล้ว
MIG weld (GMAW) and install a 2-1/2in dual exhaust side discharge on a 1979 Chevy G10 with: Summit Dual Kit #671250 Headman Headers #69060 Summit Turbo Muffler #633222 Then a Catalytic Converter is welded in to pass inspection.
Rear Main Seal Replacement, Two Piece, SBC
มุมมอง 26K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Replace a two piece rear main seal in a 1979 Chevy G10 with a 350 Small Block Chevy motor. The engine and crankshaft remain in place when the seal is replaced. A bad Rear main seal is a typical culprit if you have oil being slung around by your torque converter.
Fitting Harbor Freight 13" No-Flat Tires on a Gorilla Cart
มุมมอง 15K3 ปีที่แล้ว
I made the Harbor Freight 13" no-flat tires fit on my Gorilla Cart. Tires modified were: Haul-Master 13 in. Flat-Free with Powder coated Steel Hub.
Saginaw Steering Gear Rebuild 1979 Chevy G10 Van
มุมมอง 6K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Rebuild a Saginaw Steering Gear off of a 1979 Chevy G10 Van. Shows process from beginning to end, including (but not limited to) Pitman arm removal, gear disassembly and reassembly, teflon ring removal, installation and compression, ball bearing installation, seal removal and installation, and setting preload. Link to the directions that came with the parts: www.flickr.com/photos/193058360@N02/...
Cub Cadet LT1024 Camshaft Replacement, Briggs and Stratton 446777 24HP
มุมมอง 2.7K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Camshaft replacement on a 2004 Cub Cadet LT1024. Video shows maintenance from engine removal to reinstall, including main seal install, engine sump install, troubleshooting, valve adjustment, and pulley removal and install. Part numbers were found on CCparts.com. Torque Sequence Photo: flic.kr/p/2kZVJKM
1998 Ford Ranger Bed Removal
มุมมอง 32K3 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video I remove the bed on a 1998 Ford Ranger.
No crossover?
Anybody know the part numbers 5.7 engine cooling system hoses
I own an 88 Ranger GT - i am in need of the fuel filter housing - do you have one for sale? Thanks Lou
Quick question: Did you consider using both the Gorilla Cart bearing and the Harbor Freight bearing on the same wheel? It looked like you could have pressed the GC bearing further into the hub shaft and then put the HF on top of it until its lip caught on the edge. Not sure if that would work or even be desirable, but just wondering since you had the bearings. Might give some extra strength.
excellent ..
How long did it actually take you to do this?
It's been a while and recording the video makes everything take longer. I think 3-4 hours is probably a good estimate.
Good video. I appreciate the clarity on the light disconnect.
Must have been a Hull technician
Yes sir.
@@randomherolhd3 10 4.. played the rate of DC from 03 to 07..
Clear concise and to the point.
👍🏻👍🏻
Great video
Very quick and to the point, thanks! Hull Tech? Machinist Mate here. Go Navy!
Enjoyed your video thanks for sharing
do you have to remove the bumper to do this??
No
Hi, Just searched for rear seal replacement, found your video, that pleased me, I also have a 1979 G10 350, I have the motor on a stand purely as I wanted to clean / paint and replace any gaskets and seals that might be leaking, do the valve stem seals etc. Thanks for your post, I had an American Car business in London Uk, before I came to Aust nearly 40 years ago, So its been `A while` since I did any `spanner` work. cheers. May I mention the backing music was far too loud, just drowned out your comments. I subscribed and liked............
Thanks. Sorry about the audio issue. The audio from my voice only comes through one channel and the music comes through both channels (L&R). I think that how the speakers are setup determine if that issue will be noticeable. Anyway, I'm not sure how to fix that at this point, but thanks for the comment.
cheers, I`m no audio tech, but wouldn`t just turning the music volume down work? @@randomherolhd3
What if there’s old silicone on the groove above the crankshaft how do you clean that 💀
Use something that won't scratch the metal sealing surface.
Very quick to the point torque specs even got some good music in there. Good work dude thank you thank you so much. I knew how to do this but I needed a refresher course also wanted to verify that offsetting the seal by a half inch is the way to do it Anyways good job thank you
Thanks.
Outstanding video. Brief and to the point. Thank you.
Great video! Did you apply any antiseize on crankshaft while installing new pulley? Thanks.
I’m going to do this to my 1980 Chevy truck this weekend . Your video is perfect . Question if I put silicone on the back of the seal and have to replace it agin wouldn’t it be glued in place and unable to remove in the future ? Thanks .
The silicone is a sealant not an adhesive, so it will come off.
About to do mine on my 75 350sbc, thrust bearing is gone, just replace it like the rear main? And does it have to be aligned a special way?
Sorry it took so long to reply. To do the thrust bearing you will have to remove the crankshaft.
Hey, I have to replace my radiator in my 1982 gmc vandura 3500, in the video you flushed the engine with a hose through the heater core and thermostat housing 2:25 , my question is where does the water pour in through the heater core? Both my hoses stick out through the firewall and connect to the radiator, is there another access point in the doghouse? This is my first time working on a old van.
That's sounds strange to me. Only one of the hoses for the heater core should go to your radiator(return). The other should come from the block(pressure side). The only access to flush it is through those hoses.
I did a similar thing, except I returned the HF tires and am still looking for replacements with the right hub size because I 100% would completely destroy 3 of 4 new tires if I tried to do this.
a lot of reviews say the hub which is what your bearings are pressed into break off and separate from the actual rim, I would grind off where they meet both sides and weld it on so it doesn't snap off
learned alot today
I have the biggest Gorilla 12 cubic ft cart. Sadly it has the 8 inch rims and flat free tires that size are too expensive.
These wheels will fail if hauling any amount of weight. The center hub is just welded on one side and the hub will break away from the wheel. It happened to me after just 3 uses of my John Deere dump cart. I was worried about the tires holding up but it turns out the wheel itself is the weak point. If your just hauling leaves these probably would hold up/
I regularly overfill my cart with firewood to haul and have never had an issue.
@@randomherolhd3 You're lucky then. I have an 8 yard John Deere dump cart that I moved 6 loads of dirt with on 3 separate occasions and on the final load the center hub broke right out of 1 wheel and caused the other wheel to bend and break the weld. When I returned them to Harbor Freight they said this wasn't the first time they saw this happen. I just figured it to be useful information for those interested in these wheels.
Hey man great vid was wondering if I could get the name of silicone used
It was red RTV, I don't remember the brand.
I got the cap off no problem but the top portion of the seal just disintegrated when I tried pushing on it. Any tips before I try the other side,
How does the old bottom seal look? Maybe, if use the old bottom piece(cut in half or something like that) to push the top through. If the old bottom piece is just as bad it may be worth it to buy a second seal that you can use to push around the old seal.
That's how you make a how to video.. right to the point..
Whew. What a relief. I was thinking...Pull the engine, remove flywheel, torque converter, split the block, etc. Thank you so much for this video!! 👍
You're welcome!
@@randomherolhd3 Well, it turned out I have a later style engine that has a single piece seal, so I had to either drop the tranny or pull the engine.I chose the tranny.
There is a new seal that is one piece with one cut in it that will make all of these old two-piece seals obsolete. It goes on just like the two-piece but you just keep rotating it until the cut is at the 12 o'clock position and then the bottom cap is put on normally. It completely eliminates the leak-prone section where the caps meet. If all you need is a new seal this is the one to buy.
The one piece and two piece seals cannot be used interchangeably. The block will either be designed for a two piece (before around 1986) or a one piece (after around 1986). You can buy an adapter to allow a one piece seal design to use a two piece seal. The reason that exists is probably because a two piece seal is easier to replace with the engine installed. I do not know of an adapter to convert a two piece to a one piece seal or of a one piece seal that replaces the two piece seal. If I am wrong and such thing exists, please let me know and put a link in to it in your reply.
@@randomherolhd3 You are wrong. There is a video if a guy putting this one piece seal into a two piece engine. It will revolutionize the two piece seal industry. It goes on just like the two piece seal but is rotated all the way around so that the bottom of it is completely intact with no seams.
Well, it sure sounds legit.
I was freaking out that I'd have to pull the engine and split the block to do this. As long as it stops the leak, I dont care if its one or two pieces. Just being able to do this with the engine still in makes the job 98% better.
Just used this for my 84 vette thanks!
Being that this is a 79 engine, how different is it going to be on a 1996 350sbc?
There is a chance that it is a Gen I SBC and will be the same, but it is most likely a Gen II SBC at that year. To be sure, find the block number and look it up on google. That will tell you what block you have, and it will let you know if it is a 2 or 1 piece rear main seal.
@@randomherolhd3 the RPO code says L31 engine, gas, 8-cylinder, 5.7, CPI. It's a 350 vortec. Is l-31 the block number?
@@AdamSteidl That is a Gen I Block, but I believe it has a one piece rear main seal and is different from the two piece seal shown in the video.
WHO the F edits your videos????? level of volume on the music is Fing insane compared to your voice. Its unwatchable.
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't realize my voice is only coming through on the left side speaker. Depending on how you are watching, that may be the issue.
Sweet!
Thanks!
Careful around the filler neck with power tools. Fuel vapors can ignite off the drill. Had a buddy that taped the vent holes up on his dewalt and it still flashed on him. Cost him his eyebrows and a good pair of Levi's.
Funny you mentioned sparks from power tools around fuel fill. Here in NJ you don't pump your own fuel. Pulled up to a gas station at night, the attendant opened the fuel door, l get out to unlock fuel cap, my fingers must've been close to the bed or fuel door, l heard and seen the loudest,bluish spark ever. Static electricity should also be taken serious. Fruit of the Looms lived to see another day😊
Hi maybe a dumb question, but would you recommend removing the distributor first? Or do you just turn the pump so the extension lines up with the distributor shaft?
Not at all. You have to turn the pump shaft to match the distributor whether you remove the distributor or not, so I think removing the distributor would only make the job more difficult since you would have to align the distributor to the cam. In this video, I did not remove the distributor. I just pulled the pump and was careful to not turn the shaft. When I reinstalled the pump, it aligned with no fuss.
Are all the 350 a two piece im replacing mine on a 70 c10
They are not all two piece. You can look up your block number to find out if yours is.
Why not just change out the old tire and tube with the new one from HF?
I'm not exactly sure what you are asking. The purpose was to put No-Flat wheels on the cart. I did use new No-Flat wheels from HF, but they needed a slight mod to fit the gorilla cart. Hope this answers your question.
Excellent thank you!
After I did this job, my oil pressure is very low, what could that be from? Did I just not seal it to the main cap correctly?
If the main cap wasn't sealed then you would see oil leaking out the back. Most likely it is an issue with the oil pump. The pump shaft may not be seated correctly, the oil suction riser was bent and not fully submerged in the oil sump, or the pump isn't sealed and pulling air.
@@randomherolhd3 awesome thanks for your insight. I'll take it back apart and redo it
Did you ever get this worked out?
@@randomherolhd3 yes it turned out to be the pump wasn't seated correctly to the main cap. Thank you for your help!
is this the same for a 1975 chevy g30 van, thanks!
If the engine is a SBC with a two piece rear main seal then yes. You will have to look up to see that your engine came with a two piece seal that year. I'm pretty sure it does.
You are the best buddy 😎🔥
Thanks.
Thanks for the tip using the hose clamp as a guide for your cut! I will definitely remember that one…
You're welcome Johnny.
Very good info and video. I try to do the manual boxes but always have too much slop
Thanks John.
Straight to the point!!
Thanks
Iam your newest subscriber i have a 1988 chevy G20 camper van i need to flush my colling system really bad i flushed it years ago with vinegar and water it cleaned it really good . i never knew how to get air out glad i watched your video. i need a new radiator too. your radiator is make in freakin China i will order a spectra radiator MADE IN CANADA
Thanks.
Great vid ty for not going on and on. Could you tell me what a seal shoe horn is and where to get one? Fixing to do a 1957 6cylinder
The shoe horn came with the seal when I got it.
Thinking of cutting down a coors light can and fouming one?? Thanks i realized the v8 seal swap is not any different than my 6….
Did you have to disconnect the brake lights ?