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Thanks!

:o)

You're welcome!

:O)

I think if you follow the maintenance minder and change between 15% and 5% you will be OK.

@@InsideBigJaysGarage Thanks for the response. I'll try it.

I didn’t but if I did it again I would.

@@InsideBigJaysGarageso you didn’t install hand free adapter? If you did would you mind sharing how you did that.

I did install it. But after the new grey panel was on the car. With the new grey panel you need a new HFA sensor. If I were to do it again I would install the sensor to the grey panel and then install the grey panel.

@@InsideBigJaysGarage got it, thanks.

I’ll have some OAs coming from my K24 and J35 both with 200,000mi+ and owned since new with 8,000-10,000mi oil change intervals.

You’re welcome. Good luck with the CRV. They are nice cars.

You’re welcome!

It can. But, I’m a big guy and it’s can be a little tight for me. I have the tools so I use them.

You’re welcome and good luck!

I currently own a 2013 Accord (K24) with 236,000mi and a 2013 Honda Odyssey (J35) with 206,000mi on it. I will have OAs of those engines coming soon. They will be run down to about 5% on the Maintenance Minder.

@@InsideBigJaysGarage lol

I am not in Canada. I am in upstate NY.

You're welcome!

At the end of the day, you have to do what you feel comfortable with.

Possibly. Right now I am of the opinion that it is from assembly lube used in the assembly process. But, I really don’t know 100%.

You’re welcome! Good luck with the repair.

I did not.

You're welcome! Good luck with the repair.

I am not sure. I have not made one.

No, not at all.

It’s true. I follow that regiment on my Odyssey and Accord. OAs come back 100% A-OK. Even though the first oil change only called for an oil dump, I changed the oil filter, too. Going forward I will change the filter per the Maintenance Minder.

Correct. If you have the wiring harness that silver cover has to come off.

You're welcome! Good luck!

I am a 3rd generation Toro Owner. I say that meaning my grandfather had a Toro and my Father had a Toro and they got 30+ years out of them. I have owned mine since new in 2005 and the only issue I had with it was the gearcase oil leak that I talked about in the video, that was fixed with grease. The Tecumseh engine is a great motor, and even though they are out of business, I believe you can still get parts easily. Just check out the drive system make sure it goes forward and back with no issues. On mine, there were times when in "1" it would go slowly backwards, but that was a simple cable adjustment. Over all, I would 110% buy mine again. IIRC I paid about $1,800 MRSP for mine, so if its in good shape $300 is a STEAL IMO.

Sludge has little to do with oil interval and a lot more to do with oil quality. Cheap conventional changed frequently will sludge up an engine much worse than running a 10k interval with a quality synthetic. This has been tested and proven repeatedly.

Thank you!

@@OtisFlint Yeah, but even the best Synthetic will sludge eventually. So why push it to the limit, when most engineers say to cap it at 5k.

Understandable.

I appreciate your concerns.

Any metals that are of size that could cause damage to the engine are removed by the oil filter. The increased Moly is protecting the engine as well.

@@InsideBigJaysGarage if the oil filter traps all metal, what is the moly protecting the engine from after 1000 miles of break in?

Molybdenum is a friction modifier. It is used to reduce friction and heat in motor oils.

@@InsideBigJaysGarage so all oil manufacturers are screwing us over and damaging our engines by not putting enough moly in them? I mean, more must be better, right? My point is - you don't know the long-term effects of doing this 10k initial OCI versus a shorter initial OCI, any more than I do. But suffice to say, engines can easily go over 200k miles even having such a long initial OCI.... sure. That isn't scientific, that's just observation. You don't have the scientific background to state it is helpful, or not. Lake Speed Jr, who is a tribologist, used a similar oil sample result to state that an early OCI *is* beneficial. Now, he is basing that on the presence of very high metal content in the oil, which you also saw. He just came to a different conclusion using similar data.

@@InsideBigJaysGarage Not true! If that were true, there would be no noticeable on the oil test you just did! Common man! Yes, never go over 1000 miles first oil change. Get that metal and trash out after break in! Watch Lake Speed Jr for as to why you change 1st oil at 1000miles or less!

I’m at 24,000mi now. When the code comes up I will do it and make a video.

No doubt.

IIRC once all the fasteners are off it comes right off.

you have to release the 4 tabs from the top of the silver part/original cover. I used a trim tool to gently release each one while also gently pulling the cover and it came off fairly easily.

@@chadnewsome8525 thanks for the insight. Assuming using the trim tool from the finish side of the cover? Or from under the car? Pressing down?

@@VincenzoDom from the finish/outward facing side of cover and I think it’s pressing down but as you start from one side you should be able to confirm as you pull out an little bit.

@@chadnewsome8525 appreciated!

That's your opinion, based on no data whatsoever.

@@OtisFlint plenty real world data.

This is why I am baselining with the OA to check the MM and see if its legit.

I don't understand your comment.

I don't have trailer brakes, so I don't have any input for you.

Agree to disagree.

Why? Oil held up fine

@@dennywiresits the deposits in the oil at 7 to 10 thousand miles . It will gum up that engine under normal use , even more if most of your drive is in city .that oil is dirty at 5000 and needs to be changed .

I wonder if there was a way to test how far the oil can go without causing harm?

It’s in the video. Watch the whole thing. :0)

5.8qts. 0W-20

I appreciate your concern about my health. I do see a doctor annually for my physical exam. All my blood work is fine and I have low blood pressure. :)

I’m doing every 6 months right now. Spring and fall when I wax the cars going into and coming out of winter. It seems to be going well. Good luck.

I use this every 6 months on my Thunderbird t-top seals. It is near-impossible to find those seals, so I try to take care of them. I discovered this product from a Porsche restoration website, and I’m very impressed. I also use it on the rest of the weatherstripping of course. Like Big Jay, I also use rubber gloves. Good product.

Good luck with it. We really like our Elite.

I believe it’s made by Frams parent company. Honeywell.

The compression ratio is 11.5 to 1

@@garyganser2451 most DFI "NON-turbo" engines are 13:1 even 14:1 for some

:-)

Thanks!

The right most column is the results of the oil analysis I had done in October of the 9,600mi run on the oil put in at the Honda plant. The grey is the average of all the tests but something isn’t calculated right and is showing a copy of the most recent test. I have to get that corrected by Blackstone. But I went ahead with the video as it’s kinda inconsequential.

@@InsideBigJaysGarage Thanks, for the quick reply! I've got a 2020 Honda CRV and I'm changing the oil every 5k miles with Quaker State extreme durability full synthetic and Mobil 1 oil filters. I do a round trip from FL to PA every summer, but the rest of the mileage is just trips to Walmart, Home Depot, Grocery stores, and such and most aren't more than 5 to 10 minutes each way. The car has the 1.5L direct injected, turbo charged engine and I'm concerned about gasoline washing past the rings into the case. For instance, I've currently got about 27,500 miles on the engine and changed the oil about 5 months and 1,800 miles ago. The oil already smells of gasoline. I've not taken my yearly trip to PA, so almost all of the 1,800 miles are from short trips. Maybe I'll have to look up an oil test laboratory and see if there are any wear concerns.

You’re welcome. A valid concern, as early versions of that engine were known for fuel dilution. You could pull a hot sample from the dipstick tube and send it into Blackstone for analysis. $40 for peace of mind could be worth it. They will mail you a free sample kit (you have to use your own syphon) in the mail upon request.

@@InsideBigJaysGarage Cool. Thanks for the advice. I'll give that a try. Why do you recommend a "hot sample"? Is that to ensure that any entrained gasoline is mixed in with the oil rather than floating on top where it might give a falsely high reading?

Correct. Blackstone recommends it be a hot sample so it’s all mixed.

Very nice!

wow cool

That’s a tundra not a direct injection engine that’s in the Honda. Tundras are million mile engines.