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Careful doing oil analysis vids, the Amsoil trolls will come out of the woodwork. I've been using Triax oils for 6-7 years now and haven't had a single problem with it. I've used it in diesels and all of my gas engine vehicles. I still don't go past 5-6k miles with any oil though.

I suggest you look into surface shield made by blaster . It's good stuff and I think it's less money than what you're using.

5:16 Thanks for the informative tutorial. I just installed mine on a 2025 Touring. It looks like on the vid you have the HFA still in place. I do on mine, but i couldn't install the hitch with it in place. I understand due to the hitch, the HFA relocation kit is required, which i have on order, however it appears most don't and still have the original HFA with the hitch installed. Curious to know if what i see is the HFA or did you remove yours or get the new relocation HFA. Thanks! 5:16

10K oil run??? What's wrong with you people?

Hey I appreciate you took the time to share this. I have a '25 Pilot and just got my Blackstone analysis from when I changed the factory fill at 2900 miles. Mine had copper at 52ppm, aluminum at 18, iron at 13 and silicon from sealers at 89. Everything else was good, no fuel. Due to the tiny oil passages inside the solenoids that power the VCM and VVT phasers I am going to stick to around 6k intervals. I've seen the sludge that builds up inside over time. The problems that can develop occur well after the OEM warranty period but I plan to keep for a long time.

Great Video. What is the appropriate fuse size for the S-VCM?

The hose looked to be a coolant hose, not a powersteering hose?

Or, is it the idler pulley bolt that's threaded in reverse?

Please clarify, to loosen the serpentine belt one must turn the 14mm tensioner pulley bolt counter-clockwise. If one wants to completely remove the entire belt tensioner unit, is that same bolt turned in a clockwise direction? And the 12mm bolt is turned counter-clockwise?

What car ramps are you using ? Any issues with them slipping while driving up them? Do you turn the steering wheel to get acces to the filter? Thanks in advance

I installed the OEM wire harness and hitch today without removing the bumper. I followed your video and two others to make it work. The hands-free was the only thing I didn't see covered in any video, and also that you need to install the 30A fuse inside the engine bay fuse box. Complete installation took me 3 hours. Thanks for your tips and tricks!!!

I’m not impressed with those numbers at all.

My daughter in law had a Honda Odyssey that was burning oil due to the disabling of certain cylinders. Disabling this device slowed down the oil consumption. How much does it cost to have the oil analysed and what would be the benefit of doing that?

Love it, thanks for keeping us up. Good oil filter too - Wix. Oh yeah, WTH is TRIAX???

you didnt agitate after dwell time.

Valvoline restore and protect seems to do a good job. Have used it in 4X -5k mile oil changes so far. Cant say Its really better than the pennzoil full synthetic i used before. Car has 370k miles . Any oil is good if you change it often enough.

That's actually pretty good oil then. There's several reasons you probably would have came up with similar numbers no matter what brand you used. I've never ran it more than 6500 miles. It's cheaper on my end to change it even if there's still reserve alkalinity left. But when you look at the cold flow numbers if you know anything about synthetic oil at all you can see QS is doing something that some more expensive brands are not doing. I started considerable research on Liqui Moly yesterday and i kept realizing it's great oil if you run the kind of intervals in the kind of mavhinery they're running in Europe but our engines are designed different because we have to meet standards they're not. But Liqui Moly kept reminding me of the lackadaisical physical properties of what Valvoline synthetic is today...i believe they were better like Mobil 1 was better even 7 years ago. They don't flow as well cold and they don't take the heat like they used to. That turned me on to Motul 8100 products and I kept saying to myself for what it's going in there's no way there's any reason to spend the bigger bucks. Especially when QS keeps producing the numbers they do with independent labs. That's one thing I'm kinda sore with Valvoline is there's a whole lot of independent labs that keep testing the oil and coming up with different numbers than Lexington is releasing. Someone is fudging. And it's been going on for awhile now. I'm not going to respond to the subjective opinions of people who think in terms of one oil change analysis numbers. And one thing I'd point out is Blackstone has had some issues reporting in the last few months, in the least. I'd use NAPA or Schaeffer's or someone else for analysis if I were going to even do it.

You guys that believe in the Valvoline R&P should really research it like an oil tribologist or chemical engineer because if you understand that stuff you'd see they're not making the claims most of you perceived about it. If i were going to buy Valvoline and wanted the best I'd be buying their Extended because it actually makes the most overall claims about wear and cleanliness. The R&P only claims to clean... and it's really a soft claim at best but they're only claiming to clean the piston crowns but i can tell you right now there's a lot cheaper ways to clean your pistons and therby reduce friction. The R&P uses about 50% by volume special cleaning esters they claim to have discovered by accident in India. I don't buy that part. It smells of hype. Most of that product's clsims smell of marketing. It's what they can get you to perceive and then you'll make all kinds of subjective claims for them.

Just seems like a lot of "wear" on those numbers regardless of what blackstone is saying. You are either at or above the "averages".

All the oil formulas keep changing due to API and emissions reasons and chemical availability. Like titanium was in Valvoline Advanced but disappeared and then it was less and less in Castrol GTX and Edge and now it's found in their Extended or their Gold bottle only. QS used to have more moly but they were using Lubrizol dinuclear moly and not trinuclear moly from Infineum. Schaeffer's isn't even using dinuclear... there's is the old formula even before dinuclear. Anyway the older formula and dinuclear are linear and deplete quicker as you add miles. Trinuclear is about like having 6-7 times more dinuclear and isn't nearly as linear when it comes to depletion over its life. So you could start with like 80ppm trinuclear and that's like having over 500ppm dinuclear. Infineum is the only additive company using trinuclear. Infineum is mostly a joint company owned by Shell oil and Exxon Mobil. But sometimes people will look at an oil from the standpoint of how much moly or boron or zn or phosphorus their oil has and that's not the best picture or measure for determining quality. Sometimes oil has more additives to cover up weaker bases. The physical properties done by ASTM test procedures tell the real story about the quality of the oil. QS products always do better than people will believe... and usually better than the one's they think are better. Big thing with any brand is stop trusting the brand and start doing reasonable oil change intervals and then you won't have any issues to start with. If you wait until the oil light you're probably going too long because it's just a mileage counter. If you drive all or mostly town miles you're oil is toast by the time it's changed. I used to know someone who changed by the light. Destroyed a GM turbo engine prematurely and probably the one after that because I stopped keeping in contact with her because she drove me nuts. But since I wasn't asking her about her oil I'm sure that engine or whole car is long gone. Some people just don't learn.

Ow20 and 5w20 are some group V esters, some PAO, and some group III synth. It's really good stuff. The 5w30 is slightly different but it's also premium. I probably wouldn't run the QS full synthetic for 10,000 miles. If you're wanting 10,000 miles I'd probably buy something a little more expensive. I mean...if you're driving a non GDI engine and mostly highway and don't have a turbo it's probably good enough for that. But with a turbo or with GDI i wouldn't. But I'd be careful about using any synthetic for more than probably 6--7000 with a turbo or GDI.. unless the latter is Toyota or Ford that have a second injector spraying fuel at the valve in cold running conditions and switches to GDI once it's warmed up. Cold engines with typical GDI causes fuel contamination because it sprays a high pressure liquid on the cylinder walls and that's why the condition requiring LSPI oil requirements started in the first place. So they took a lot of calcium out of the oil and increased magnesium to reduce the likelihood. Once the cylinder warms up it's not very likely to happen.

Good video. Did you use 0w-20 or 5w-30?

Congratulations on the good test results. Have you considered something like Valvoline's Restore and Protect for Carbon Deposit Cleanup if you're concerned about the Oil Control Rings... Doesn't look like you've added (or needed?) much Oil recently (1/2 Quart in 8K ain't bad... Was that consistent and just 1/2 Quart low during the other Oil Changes? My 2014:GMC Terrain 2.4,L Ecotec has had Oil Dilution issues in the past and I'm not trusting it to go much past 4-5K (per Analysis, was 5.5% at 3000 miles, now down to 1.3%...) Recently switched to Valvoline Restore and Protect... changed the Filter at 3008 miles and should hopefully have Analysis results in the next week or two... Depending on how VRP does might let it go to 5K... But I'm likely nowhere near allowing OLM default of 7500 miles/12 months without a few more samples to verify previous "Short Tripping", Driving Style changes, and Maintenance has made a permanent change...

You should really look into Valvoline's restore and protect. I'm not normally someone who would tell you there's any difference normally. Fancy oil is mostly snake oil. And really I won't tell you I'm 100% all in on restore and protect. I've put 1k on it so far. In that 1k I'd normally see 1/2 quart of oil loss. But with the restore and protect it doesn't look like I've lost a drop in 1k The theory is it keeps the rings cleaner, and with modern low tension oil rings, buildup does seem to be the enemy. If restore and protect completely stops the oil burning and I no longer have to add oil between oil changes, I'd be willing to risk running no VCM muzzler at all.

Can t see which bolt, size of socket you put on the tensioners.

Great video thank you.

Thanks for posting I have been looking for this info. Should be a very decent oil.

Mines not leaking but its screaming like crazy. Should I just replace it, or would a rebuild fix that??

My filter gets changed with every oil change every 5k miles. Oil and filters are cheap, engines are not. Great video. I also loved your video on the first oil change on the car with the lab results.

Bro idk why im struggling so bad w getting the belt on, trying again tomorrow

If it’s easy, I’d rather not have to look at another video on how to put the blades into maintenance mode. Why not just a quick description, even? Here you go: Turn car on, turn car off. Within 10 seconds, hold the wipers in mist mode until they raise. You’re in maintenance mode. 🤘

Did I miss your comment on stopping distance? I think thats the most important attribute of a winter tire

Also how long is the flexible oil funnel that you have ? Im thinking about buying one for my pilots oil changes

What size is the oil filter wrench ?

Very good detailed information 👌🏽 good job man...

What is the link for the Honda tech site? That torque spec sheet is valuable.

Thanks, I did mine on my 2022 Pilot last year, it's a PITA, takes about 2 hours to do a clean and accurate job on all doors and hatch / sunroof. Some areas on the doors don't close seal to seal, some will touch the car paint, just gently wipe off excess (why, because someone will touch there clothes on it eventually and get your seats shin-etsu-ed.), too much and it will get nasty, esp. during pollen season, let alone dirt in the air sticking to it. Also great for lubricating the liftgate struts on the motorized hatch, mine developed a squeak within a year and a very very thin layer of this got rid of it. Would never use bare hands with this stuff, no telling what chemical in there may get through the skin barrier, and gloves are cheap, healthcare is not.

Shin jelly. Like Cotton Hill mentions in the animated series King of the Hill. 😂😂 left his shins on Iwo Jima fighting the Tojo's so we could enjoy our liberties and freedom. He has to apply this balm to his legs (or what's left of them) and he calls it "shin jelly." 😂😂 Shin Etsu made me think of that

Just bought a 2025 ridgeline. Changed the original oil at 1000 miles.

Great stuff. I can appreciate why you do 10k OCI. Unfortunately I do a bit of short trips where the engine will not get up to operating temperature so I change mine at every 5k miles.

Thanks for posting. I wondered how effective this tool is. I’ve used heavy duty foil up to now. Looks like I’m ordering one.

Thanks for the demo. Sure beats cardboard!

Thank you for this sharing.

I really enjoyed the torque value portion and how you mentioned all the work can be done from the top of the engine.

I change every 5k. Have 264k miles now hardly burns any oil about half a quart every 4k. 06 CVPI. I'd suggest at least changing the filter every 5k and adding the quart back that comes out that way it'll filter better.

You talked way too much about the part

Was your whining or just leaking?

I would never follow the manufacturer recommendations for fluid change intervals these days. It’s all about lower cost of ownership and government incentives. They just want to sell you the vehicle and get through the warranty period, then sell you another starting the cycle up again. Good luck with their “lifetime” transmission fluid 🙄. I have a 2021 Pilot, I change the oil every 4-5k and just changed the transmission, transfer case and rear differential at 30,000 miles. People do not understand - the manufacturers no longer care about longevity, only getting you through the warranty period. After that, you’re on your own and they wash their hands of you. Do you maintenance early and often if you want your vehicles to last.

In your opinion do you think their cvt fluid is safe to use? Claims to be 100% synthetic. Ive looked at the data sheets and its basically on par and in other areas better than other brands. If their data is correct it looks to be better than honda hcf-2 fluid. I just dont know if its worth it. I only discovered this brand a week ago. Been running castrol transmax universal atf/cvt since 20,000 miles, and am currently at 80,000. I initially did a 3x drain and fill, then ive done a drain and fill once or twice a year since. Including the small warmer filter at 30k, and again at 55k. Also did the pan gasket and pan filter at 55k. I want to use a dedicated CVT fluid, not this works in traditional automatics too stuff. Thats why im curious about triax. $44 for 5 quarts of 100% synthetic cvt fluid? Seems too good to be true. Honda wants $84 for a gallon of hcf-2! Plus these days ordering hcf-2 online is hit or miss. You never know if youre getting the real stuff or not. I initially started off by using valvoline cvt, but for whatever reason my car HATED it. Drove like crap , and the fluid would stink like crazy from the transmission vent tube.

Great video. Will be going after this job. And thanks for the sharing of Canadian part source. Mike