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Why not get a hickok ca5 or ca4 adaptor cheaper then another tester. I got one for my hickok 752 now can test all tubes then have hickok 600 for good bad and basic mutual conductance

Could parallel some resistors on that pot to increase its wattage. But resistance will go down so larger value pot be best. Then have an easy adjust 8k resistor

Awesome video. I recently picked up an EMP-20 and trying to program ST M2732A chips. Verified device, chips blank, binary file loaded into buffer, but keep getting a program verify error after the very first buffer/device address…it won’t program and verifies the device data as still being FF. Any idea what I could be doing wrong or what could be causing this? I have older 4.07 software but it should still work.

The two bulbs are in parallel not in series so you are not adding their wattage together. Think of what happens by wiring resistors in parallel and series.

Thank you for sharing your experience with this classic Heathkit trainer. I was fortunate to have purchased one a few years back, still sealed and in kit form from 1978. It was such an enjoyable experience, building the 3400!

very helpful video, but I am not as fluent when it comes to electronics as you are. I bought an "untested" unit and I got to power it on and the display shows the same bars like yours before you made the adjustment with the pots. If you could explain what is going on to a layman, what you did with the pot and what fixed it, what was broken, etc. Only if you have the time of course. regards Vincent

Crazy that a military tester like the tv7u and i-177 the meters get dirty or sticky. Where as the lab grade ones like mine which is 752. And a hickok 600 bench model like yours they used meters that where glass window and sealed really well

Hey, great video! I just bought an original Asteroids, everything is working except the monitor will get brighter then duller then brighter. Keeps doing it, sometimes it will stay nice for a short period of time. Is this called blooming? If I whack the machine gently it seems to help a bit....I'm new to this stuff and I'm not sure how to go about testing. There seems to be many parts that could be the culprit. Thanks in advance for any info.

I just got an old 1405 yesterday, and am happy to see this video! Mine looks similar, but I think with a lot in common with your model here.

Hi, any idea how I can align the canon so that it’s pointing upward? As it stands the ball gets stuck on the canon lip as it’s pointing slightly to the left.

I need an mpu for a space riders if you have one for sale or know of one thx

Can't you try 100k to get the record?

What’s the other device you speak of back there? 1:39

Hello, I am amazed to see you perform these repairs. I have a Peavey Midi Streamer with a similar looking problem in need of repair. Would you be willing to perform the repair for me on a fee-for-service basis? How would I contact you to arrange such a transaction - to ship the item and to pay your fees? Thanks and keep up the good work.

Hello sir, I bought a Promax OD 540 oscilloscope at low cost. But it doesn't work. When power on, all led lights up. Constantly alarming, can't find any manual on the oscilloscope. Looking forward to your advice.

Great video, great teacher, thank you so much.

Hey! Great work on the laymen instruction style! My unit just burned up and i think i know what it is although it started to smell real bad and turned off, i noticed those ceramic resistors one of the 104m i think, was a bit dark on its edge, and its smell was stronger, do you think i may be able to restore the unit by replacing those ceramic resistors? Or do you think of thats the case it might have damaged more parts and therefore it might not be a wise thong to repair, i was hoping you might help a fellow GT user, cheers ❤

I'm my 30 years of be8ng s pinball geek I have never seen an Atari pinball backglass flake.

I always live it when someone says something is "shopped"like there is a list of something somewhere that defines shopped. This is coming from an owner of 15 machines.

Thanks for the video, it is well explained. I can only speak for Australian issued Boss and Roland PSUs, some of which do not have the conventional symbol showing the polarity of the barrel jack. In fact there is no indication. I can imagine a musician who has collected a number of synth and FX units could easily assume if the voltage matches and it is says Roland or Boss and the product brand matches the PSU brand it is easy to assume the polarity will be correct. The only safe way is to do what you did and that is find the schematic and use a multimeter to find the polarity of the PSU. Then label the cord or write on the PSU the polarity and what it is used to power.

Those diodes up on the board are actually factory. I have a 1050 which has never been worked on and both diodes are mounted that way.

Thank you so much! This is my first pinball machine and this video helped me a ton!

This is probably the best explanation of a DBT. I’m a subscriber now. Thanks

Wow! This was nerd therapy for me. I remember my Dad buying me a 4K Model 1 at the end of the 1970s. This was eventually expanded to a twin floppy system using LDOS. Happy days. I spend hours learning to program in BASIC and machine code. Wish I had kept it. sniff ... :(

Really enjoy your content. Your vids inspired me to do electronic repairs, dabbling with radios of all sorts, then onto more complex things and i must say that im really enjoying tbe learning curve. The fuse holder on one of the radios i was repairing was corroded with a fine white powder, but i didn't notice it, when I tested the fuse in circuit across the two fuse endcaps, it of course tested okay but still no power, it took me a good few minutes to discover the corroded fuse holder. Thanks again for your inspiration and can't wait for the next video with more tips and knowledge.

Monolith, meaning like a statue, hugh obblisk (monolithic statue), "those rectifiers are huge" Derived from "mono" meaning "single" & "lithos" meaning "made from stone" hence mono- lith. Our old family home, before dad was made redundant and we had to downsize, had a huge stone fire hearth and chimney, we used to call it the monolith in the lounge.😀

Big soldertips are a nice thing. I for myself use a big old iron, dont know the watts, but it melts everything quite fast. Even solderconnections on a big metal chassis.

What do you mean by "Monolithic" rectifiers? Monolithic meaning what?

Salvaged parts to save the day ! Hopefully, you can find a home for the repaired boards.

Equal judge plank!

I'm here to chew gum and repair rectifier boards, and I'm all out of gum... :D As always, thanks for another informative video.

Good video. A question: Can this oscilloscope be used to repair communication radios?

Buen video. una consulta se puede usar ese osciloscopio para reparar radios de comunicación ?

Can I some questions about the Roland repair?

You turned the machine on with a data tape in the drive. Never do that.....

You didnt mention recalibration after replacing new leads, I need to do that with mine when i chenged the design. If i remeber correctly you need to connect all three leads and have a good .1uf nearby for lead lenght cal. Thanks for sharing

Phil Collins was an influent with his band but Mister Drive was better known in Europe

I have one of those from my late late grand mother, i don't if it is still working i would like to what its worth today. Its vintage

Thanks for this video! Just repaired my M4 keyboard in a similar manner. I just used a small set of pliers to remove the switches from the metal frame after desoldering them (grab the tabs and pull them upright from the metal frame, makes it really easy) and 99% IPA to clean the metal tabs inside the switches. Keep up your good work!

I had a scope just like that one. Recapped it and connected an oscilloscope clock board to it. Got tired of every time I turned around having to repair or re-adjudt something on the scope so I gutted it and found a small modern deflection board and got it working as a scope clock.

The fan is still quite noisy on these scopes, even when dusted off I just purchased a used TDS 320 scope, and I plan to replace the fan with a much quieter PC fan I have in spare - which even seems to push more air

The B and K manual has the variac before the isolation transformer, which to me is a little strange unless it aids in reducing inrush (magnetization) current. A common modification is installing a switch to enable floating of the output outlet grounds, which may require a custom output box (use an isolated ground orange duplex receptacle) depending on how the output jacks are wire and if they are strapped (connected) to the chassis through the mounting ears, which is generally not the case with the square single panel push mount types. Usually on older 1655s the front square jacks are sprung (low or no plug tension), so a separate AC output box is added. I have the little brother to the 1655 which is the 1653 which also does not float the output AC safety ground. So it too has to be modified to float the output ground. If you do a lot of bench AC powered appliance (device) repair, and have used different AC power supplies over the years, most experienced electronic technicians design there own to include additional features like: Higher current output 10A (which means a large transformer and variac with surge circuit), current limit dead short option (bulbs or resistor), magnetic/hydraulic AC circuit breaker protection (circuit breaker protection to protect firstly the variac which is usually after the isolation transformer) instead of fuses, two analog AC current meters (with a switch MBB to select different ranges), one analog output AC voltage meter, two types of isolated output receptacle both orange floating ground GFCI duplex and regular duplex with a selector switch and with each having a separate power on switch. The isolation transformer is usually a toroidal hospital grade transformer with internal shield and over-temp self resetting thermal switch. The GFCI is a basic AC current leakage detector for the DUT. It will trip at about 6mA or above. So if it does not trip this means that if there is leakage it is below the GFCI threshold. Before each use the GFCI should be tested with its test button.

Greenslade intro music ? 😊

i see metal tape on the disk part. what is that? i might purchase a new one since mine is raggedy. where exactly can i get those? and what's the tape called?

Pick Axe Pete: You try to stay alive smashing boulders until a falling gold boulder smashes on the floor and produces a golden key which you are to gather and enter a box to advance to the next level. Your pick axe will disappear but not as quickly as the key does.

For the common corroded contacts in the power switch on the Genesis I use Deoxit or BW100 instead of IPA.

👏👏👏, the video looks like a 2010 production. It must be good.

You sure di know what you are doing! I worked as TV technical Maintenance Engineer for 15 years. I just picked up a tektronix TDS 360 -similar like yours with the same problem. You gave mea solution to my problem. Thank You!

I must have been the lucky ones. I loved my Adam. I bought one in my senior year of HS AND never had a problem. I used it for games and school work through college. Great printer for the time and even learned basic language while I had it. Lol, I had my first resume on that thing. Eventually, it got stored in the shed for a couple of years. I Pull it out, and it still worked. I felt it kept up or out performed my buddies C64 for game play. Yes, the tape drive was loud and the printer, but for half the cost of a C64 I was fine with it. I even programmed a rudimental DD game.

Great scope! I'm looking on to buy one for myself too :)