วีดีโอ

amen. my Hakko FR-301 is by far my favorite bench tool!

Use recovery menu to install ISFShax. Besides that dump the logs and post them on my website tzirf.com for review. Or refer to my guide and look through them to see if the eMMC is bad. There is no reason to guess at this when it can be verified/tested.

Yes, please refer to my written guide on my website or this video on my youtube channel. The component is known as a decoupling capacitor th-cam.com/video/6qA9JAMBKeA/w-d-xo.html

use wiiuident to see if your console has a Hynix nand from 2012-2013; if it's not both of those, it will be fine for the foreseeable future still install isfs just cause it has a bunch of extra utility aroma cant provide be careful following video guides like this though as they can become outdated fast and that's particularly dangerous with isfs as it poses brick risk

@@tiramisu222 Thanks, man

There are guides for a RedNAND and ISFShax. I made this video because some people prefer seeing how it is done rather than reading about it. Guide can be found here: gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-set-up-isfshax.642258/ and the RedNAND is here gbatemp.net/threads/fixing-system-memory-error-160-0103-failing-emmc-without-soldering-using-rednand-with-isfshax.642268/

I would be happy to create a tutorial and I had planned on it, need to do some research before making that video though as I want to be able to provide accurate information about how to use diffuse

Lets test this to validate it. I have come across many battery holders online and have tested many of them to find that what you are saying is absolutely true. However its not true for all of them. Additionally there might be a proponent of poor installation that plays a role in whether or not a drop or bump of the game causes the battery to pop out.

@@Tzirftest it please 🙏 I will subscribe now

My tools are over 10 years old. Based on what I have heard from others in the repair industry Hakko has gone down hill and is exceedingly expensive compared to alternative hot air stations. I purchased an Aoyue hot air station over 10 years ago and I still use it today. I would recommend looking at them or the Atten ST-862D station. They cost around $250-$300 which is far more affordable than the $1000 Hakko station. That being said I do own Hakko equipment and its never failed me, but their prices are significantly higher so if you are doing this as a hobby you might want to consider the less expensive stations.

Glad you found it helpful

Thank you for that information. I suspected that the 1 Chip could end up being at fault. I am still troubleshooting it and will post a follow up video.

use a solder sucker or that copper wire to remove solder better

lol

Sure if your Ambidextrous and can do that, but its not realistic for most people. Work smarter not harder.

Hot tweezers work great for this.

There are no chemicals in a magic eraser. A magic erase is only microfiber. it is the sanding properties approximately 5000-6000 grit that allows it to do everything that it can do or as the manufacturer says makes it "Magic"

@@Tzirf oh wow TIL. Thanks! I did not realize it was all based on the properties of the sponge which makes the magic eraser work.

No I just need a 2nd copy of the game. Should cost about $10 for a working copy. I think the reason I want to figure out what is wrong is because I played the game as a kid. The truth is Amagon isn't that great of a game to begin with, but I am a curious guy and I want to know the reason it won't work.

quality coin battery can last as long as the original batteries did. Assuming you are using Panasonic or similar Japanese brand batteries.

@@Tzirf so it doesn't matter if you use cr2025 or cr1616, they last the same?

@@irvinsotelo441 1616 have less capacity and are smaller than the 2025, so they will last less time. the 2025 last longer but are bigger, so they may not fit in a cr1616 holder. Either way, they'll last for at least 5-10 years

Hopefully you can read English as I do not speak Russian. The solution to your problem is to take a flash drive plug it into a different Wii U that you can access the settings and format it. Then take that flash drive and plug it into the Wii U you want to create a new profile on. You will have to restart the console and it should detect the storage and allow you to create a new user.

I should have mentioned, I don't know if this works on Japan region console. I have seen it work on NA version.

$480 for a gameboy color with a new screen? I am confused by this. AMOLED Game Boy Colors are selling for around $225.00. Any other screen I would say avoid, as it just doesn't compare to the AMOLED. Cheers

@@Tzirf yea found a 'new' (motherboard recapped/cleaned & new buttons/shell/LED kit) OLED screen GBC for $159, pokemon yellow for $60, and an FPGBC for $99 patiently waiting for more GBA advancement lol, an OLED GBA-SP for $200 or FPGBA for ~$130 would be so tempting.... the FPGBC is interesting because of the bigger screen/USB-C, but the colors are so different and kinda off putting darker/muddy shade.

Yes if minute is installed you will see this screen every time. That is normal. If you remove ISFShax (aka minute) it will stop this behavior.

thought it was the third one?

Yeah i uninstalled isfshax and the console is done for lmaooo RIP

You should be able to rebuild the MLC in your console using the minute menu. This method isn't only for NAND-AID Wii U, it can also be used to repair a console that lost power during a firmware update. Does your Wii U have a bad MLC?

@@Tzirf well i tried but it didnt seem to work. I think the console is completely bricked at this point. And yes i believe the console lost power during an update (i got it in that condition) I deleted the bad files nothing happened. I used recovery menu to re-cache the coldboot, that didnt work. I then followed instructions to install ISFSHAX after finding it in your vids and following your vids of using it. After seeming to have no luck with booting back into the wii u menu i tried to re-apply the non-hacked backup then deleted ISFShax and now its just stuck in a limbo state with no hope of getting into the recovery menu.

​@@Tzirffigured out the issue. I did every backup aside from the MLC. Im assuming no way of getting that back at this point, aswell as even if i could, the boot1 is no longer a thing/original. Ya live and learn i guess haha.

You are likely using a different version of the recovery menu than I used in my video. I have not kept up with the new releases so its also possible that some options were removed.

@@Tzirf i was using 0.5 at the moment of that comment being written, i updated to 0.6 but still only had half the options yours shows. Directly from the github.

ISFSHAX is required to rebuild the MLC. If you removed it after erasing the MLC, but before rebuilding it you screwed up. That being said, 2 blue blinks and then turns off? or does it stay blue and remain on? If it remains on, what happens if you wait a minute and push the power button? If it stays on, its an OS crash (which makes sense since you tried to erase the MLC and that would erase the OS) If it turns off its a display problem. If you wait a couple minutes does the LED do anything else? Have you tried to use the UDPIH/Recovery menu to reinstall ISFShax and use that to rebuild the MLC? If you cannot get the recovery menu working again then your only option is defuse, which is must more involved. github.com/shinyquagsire23/wii_u_modchip/tree/main/pico_defuse. It should be noted that without ISFShax installed there is a point of no return when the SLC becomes corrupt where defuse is the only way to repair the console. There seems to be some confusion about what the MLC is, the MLC is alot of things but all you really have to understand is that it holds the OS for the Wii U. If you erase it the Wii U has no OS, even if the erase fails at some point the OS will be corrupt and unusable. Additionally MLC/SLC remains synced on the console and must be synced in order to function. Anyhow youtube comments are unreliable so if you wish to diagnose this further I recommend making a post on my website. Something else worth noting, there seems to be alot of individuals contacting me, thinking they can just rebuild a failing eMMC and the console should work. While this might appear to fix the problem, the truth is its a temporary band-aid at best. At worse this will cause serious headaches because the eMMC is way too degraded to even get through the rebuild process successfully. This is why its much easier to verify the eMMC is failing by looking at logs. If the logs show its failing, repair using NAND-AID.

@@TzirfFirst of all, a huge thank you for responding to me at all, it’s not something I take for granted. The Wii U blinks blue twice and then stays blue. The disc drive still works, as it accepts and ejects games, but there is no display. I can't access the recovery menu anymore, no matter when I plug in the Pico. I also left the console on for 2 hours, but nothing changed. I believe that defusing is the only way to bring it back to life. Fortunately, I didn't have any important data on the Wii U anyway. One important question when i try to defuse my Wii U do i have to do a nand aid and when yes before or after the defuse? And is there any youtube tutorial about this ?

No you would need to use the Recovery menu to check the MLC/SLC. This doesn't require you to install or modify the Wii U. You just need a Raspberry Pi Pico with the UDPIH and an SD Card with the recovery menu.

@@Tzirf okay thank you, I’ll do that just because I’m trying to take precaution with all these console issue starting to pop up

Yes it could. I have not seen a Toshiba Wii U that actually had a bad eMMC. It may be that you have corrupt data and the console needs to be factory reset. Have you tried this yet? If that doesn't work then you may need to rebuild the MLC from scratch. While its not impossible to have a defective eMMC that is a Toshiba, its highly unlikely based on the current information available. I would be interested in having more information and validating if the Toshiba eMMC is bad. Make a post on my website if you care to share so that others who run into a similar problem can have access to the information. Cheers

@@Tzirf I’ve tried to do a factory rest, but I’m not able to access anything in the file storage. It wont allow me make many selections in the menus without freezing in between loads.

No there is no harm. Just remember depending on which version of the NAND-AID you have, you may have to solder the NAND-AID into the console before soldering the SD Card Slot in place.

You are correct some of the holders will not keep the battery in place if the cartridge is dropped. I personally prefer the tabbed batteries. Cheers

I would recommend contacting SDIO. He has far more knowledge about all of that than I do. I am curious why UDPIH and the recovery menu won't work for you though. Should be able to use that to put the region back to what it should be.

@@Tzirf SDIO doesn't say why. to not be able to use UDPIH And dumping via PRSHhax doesn't work as well. And with the instructions from SDIO wiiu can now be used normally.