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it should be on the right side next to where your right foot would be while sitting on it.

I don't have a video of it. But the front plate under the seat comes off. Once off, you can lift the three point arms repeatedly to push the piston out the front. Just disconnect the arms of the three point from any attachments, with no weight and no pressure it shouldn't be difficult to lift on it.

To be clear, the cover I'm talking about is the one shown in this video.

My guess was a bad seal somewhere which caused it to leak off pressure. As a byproduct it wouldn't hold the height i set and would slowly go down.

There is a stop adjustment on mine, would be a bolt around the edge of the seat on the lift lever side. The bolt gets adjusted for the max extent for that. Alternately if there isn't enough fluid to fill the cylinder that could happen as well. 2005 is quite a bit newer than I'm used to looking at. I have another video where I believe I mention it where I've taken apart the three point piston and explain the different parts I was familiar with you might look at.

the hydraulic fluid was milky and was changed out to fresh fluid also a new hydraulic filter has well

might be the O ring seal in the piston.

@@yenxiong6225 i would think if it was the O ring that it wouldn't lift at all, or wouldn't hold with additional weight. That's just a guess though. I hope you get your issue sorted out. Not many videos of these tractors. A lot of people appreciate the couple I do have. May consider making some of your own to share your experience with the newer model.

@@Zerkini thank you man, I sure will make some videos.

Honestly I don't want to give an incorrect answer. The best suggestion I can make for any piece of equipment you own is to get a service manual and reference that to know what you should do with your tractor. With that said mine wasn't a 4wd and there fore didn't have a front diff. I just used generic tractor hydraulic fluid from oreillys. My thoughts would be if the front diff uses hydraulic fluid that whatever is recommended for the rear section would likely be the same for the front. These older pieces of equipment weren't as complicated as the new stuff and usually tried to use the same stuff in as many places as possible. But I don't know that for sure.

@@Zerkini thanks, . Doesn't have a manual and if I bought one he would complain about the price, front diff and rear diff is 85 140 gear oil as castrol lube guide said, just wasn't sure if Hydraulics and trans ran the same, as hyd oil is abit thin for gearbox. Never done much on tractor drives, mainly trucks, cars etc. Haven't had a real good look at dipsticks on rear as we had other problems that needed attending to like running tank dry , broke filter head and trying to bleed, caught fire where he sprayed aerostrt where manifold heater was and had to rewire, inlet heater staying on with accessories after starting, worn universal joint, serviced engine, battery and alternator problem, oil bath air filter clean, post rammer pulley had roll pin missing and wore shaft out, and was getting dark and strapped for time. Tractor is a hr away and owner is very slack at maintenance and not doing what I ask him to do when he goes there, off with the pixies.

www.longparts.com/ is where I ordered parts from. It's up in the air if they have the part you're looking for. But it's better than checking around random junk yards in hopes there's a chance that they have a 38 year old tractor with good parts. I've already sold the tractor a couple of years ago after I got everything working again as I determined that serviceability was likely to get more complicated as the years passed. But for sure if you have the means to create videos on your projects I 100% recommend it. These are by far the most watched videos I've put on youtube, which means that they (hopefully) provide a lot of people helpful information prior to starting their projects on their tractors as to what to expect going into it. Look forward to seeing your videos!

Hi Pedro, sorry for the long wait time for a response, the power steering is separate from the three point. There should be a reservoir under the hood on the left side (if facing from the seat) up near the front. The filter should be inside the reservoir.

Hi, my one has the oil tank under the seat and shares with PTO.

@@pedrospain571 Well mine used the chassis for storage of Hydraulic fluid, which was shared for both the 3 point and the PTO, but there was an additional smaller resevoir under the hood which was used explicitly for the power steering.

Southeast Texas. Yeah, that weather got my hotwater line at home. Luckily I had shut off valves at every branch.

Longparts.com

www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/o-reilly-oil-4527/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/grease---lube-16582/hydraulic-fluid-17707/c48289420d31/o-reilly-premium-tractor-fluid-5-gallon/74209/4601118/2004/dodge/ram-1500?q=tractor+&pos=14

There should be a dip stick along the body on the right side where you would rest your foot while not braking. The stick should reflect the optimal amount of fluid stored in the body of the tractor.

www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/8/1/5819-long-560.html Check out tractordata for more information on your specific model.

There should be a plug on the body of the tractor under the transmission housing. You should see it draining into the pan in the video. Pull that plug to drain the fluid from the body of the tractor. I'm not sure if there is a recommended fluid for use with the tractor. I purchase it from Oreilly's in town. They come in 5 gallon containers. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/o-reilly-oil-4527/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/grease---lube-16582/hydraulic-fluid-17707/c48289420d31/o-reilly-conventional-tractor-fluid-30w-5-gallon/74209/4601118/2004/dodge/ram-1500?pos=0 Once drained and the filter replaced you would put the plug back in the bottom, then start filling with the fluid. In my case the fill location is under the right side of the seat. Using a funnel I'd put in the fluid. To the right side of the tractor body down near the brakes should be a dip stick for ensuring the fluid has reached the appropriate level. I'm not sure of the specific amount required, you'd just want to fill till it's at the appropriate mark. When you drain the system it should get you an idea of how much fluid is required to fill your system. When you drain the fluid you'll want to let it drain for a while. Especially if it's gunked up like mine was. The fluid in my tractor was the hydraulic fluid which was used for the 3 point, the transmission, and to oil the rear end at the same time.

Thank you so much! I appreciate your help I’m new to these long tractors just got one. I may come back and ask you if I have trouble with something. Thanks!

longparts.com/ Is where I ordered all of my parts.

www.longparts.com/320-c-20727.html from the looks of it, you said it was 320. So I believe this is the subpage you'd need to look for more part options.

If while the handle is in the raised position and the 3 point lifts, but the hydraulics lower on their own over time while the tractor is off, or they can be forced down with weight while the tractor is on. Then it could be a few different things at that point. One - The pressure release has failed and the pressure to raise the 3 point and the pressure release valve are at near or same value. Replacing the pressure release valve may fix the issue. I do not see this item listed. Two - The Hydraulic piston for the 3 point has a damaged oring, or backup ring. This is based on my very limited knowledge. The best next step will be to take it to a shop to have it properly diagnosed. Once you know what the problem is you can search for the specific part needed. Below is a facebook group dedicated to UTB tractors. People on that page may be able to provide you with more answers that I'm unaware of. facebook.com/groups/227614693997743/?multi_permalinks=1425521407540393&notif_t=like&notif_id=1499446708491668

Well first thing you want to do is check that you have hydraulic fluid. There should be a dip stick to the right side of the tractor around where you foot goes but up on the body of the tractor. Next after you've verified you have sufficient fluid in the system to operate the 3 point lift you will want to make sure that your handle is operating as intended. If you go behind the tractor and kneel down next to the right rear tire and look inside the control box, make sure that everything is connected correctly. It's possible that this has somehow become disconnected. Obviously, from this video you might consider opening your filters cap and ensuring that the fluid is able to pass through appropriately. The large line that the filter is located on is a return line. The return line if opened at the filter replacement/checking location WILL drain your hydraulic system due to the way the system was designed. Do not open this location if the tractor is running. Essentially the hydraulic works like this. Resevoir holds the fluid, the fluid travels up the large line to the pump. It comes out of the pump through the smaller line, the smaller line travels to under your seat where the 3 point piston is located and under pressure based on the location of the lever will adjust the arms on either side of the rear of the seat up or down. The fluid then travels back to the tank. Rinse repeat. So Make sure there is fluid, make sure the lever is connected correctly (Mine has come disconnected before) and make sure that the fluid is able to travel up the large return line. If none of those work you're issue is either the pump has failed, or it's possible that the seal on the piston has failed. Pumps run 300-500, tear down of the 3 point piston and arms can get expensive. So check the basics first, and I'd recommend a shop if you're unable to find the issue there.

I'm afraid not. But I expect the issue is the same as you described. Unfortunately I had to sell it after putting it back together.

Well to be fair it's not exactly the best of videos on youtube. But in the same breath I just happened to be working on it and couldn't find any information on this particular tractor. So i opted to share what I could with anyone that might be interested in seeing some of it. I don't deal with this stuff in a professional capacity at all, so my knowledge is extremely limited and best I can hope for is that someone find some amount of what they see useful. I'd rather post the little bit I have then nothing at all.

The fill is under the right of the seat for the 3 point. If the dip stick is showing you have fluid but there isn't anything in that filter then it sounds like the return line might be clogged or the pump is bad.

Thank you! When I fill under the seat, does that fill for the transmission as well? Definitely no fluid coming out of filter housing now. Any tips on testing the pump or clearing out a clogged line? Thank you so much again for the help as I can’t find much info on these tractors

@@adamrhymer878 the fill under the seat fills the rear end and transmission. You said you filled from the shifter cover. If you unbolted that it's possible that debris got knocked loose and clogged the return line. I mention in my video the return line is the 3/4 or so line that runs from the bottom of the transmission case near the drain plug and to the inline filter, then up to the pump. If you again remove the shifter cover you can put you hand down where that return line meets the transmission casing and see if anything is blocking it. If you find debris you want to remove it. It's most likely a clogged return line. These pumps are gravity fed. The fluid level should be higher than the pump. Because the large return line is under the casing, gravity should force hydraulic fluid down the tube and to the pump. If you cannot clear any debris but fluid does not run to the filter, then it's possible you maybe can take compressed air and blow it from inside the transmission casing towards the filter to try and clear the line. At the very least there should be a generous flow of fluid from that line without the tractor running. Please run the tractor as little as possible until the fluid flows through that line. Without fluid the pump has no lubrication and can burn up.

Vernon Hardee that doesn't automatically mean the pump. that could be a bad pressure release valve, bad seal in the main hydraulic body such a main or backup piston o-ring. pumps are expensive, see about getting the pressure from the pump tested before throwing the part at it. if the tractor isn't working right don't be afraid to check the manuals troubleshooting steps.

I replaced both the power steering and the hydraulic pump but now I need a schematic to show me how to hook the lines back up I it's been so long since I took the old ones off now I can't remember

Vernon Hardee I wish I could make an educated guess based on that information. check that the lever is moving the short arm shown in this video. it's located inside the right side lever box. you can see it from behind the tractor. If that's moving as it should you may have a hydraulic pump failure or an o-ring failure inside the hydraulic manifold. But to keep it simple, start with checking your hydraulic fluid level. there should be a dipstick on the right side on the body of tractor if you have the same model.

Zerkini Thank you sir. I called my local dealer who is as honest as the day is long. He told me to tap on the front of the valve body right under the seat. One tap and to lift started working again. I appreciate your video and reply. Vern

Re check the filter. Mine came without one and after installing a new filter screen it was soon clogged with debris. Removed. Cleaned and on again. It clogged a short time after. Even after repeated oil changes. Got tired of cleaning and recleaning. So I removed it. Apparently the only good way to get all the junk out is to disassemble the transmission housing. It's been working like that for 20+ years