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Hi Monica, thank you for your feedback! Fortunately, you're not the first, and we did remake a Sanitary video, this time with a lecture and better filming: th-cam.com/video/9r-iRFDIvYQ/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps, and thanks so much for watching! 😍

Hi there! Thanks so much for your kind words, and I have to laugh that our channel must speak directly to *you*, Gina! 😍 So happy that the videos have helped, and your encouragement is very appreciated! Much more educational content to come in 2025; thanks so much for joining the channel and please send kisses to your Pomski! 🐾🙏

Hi there, congrats on your new Coton baby! Ok, let's talk about discoloration first: what you're seeing is the result of normal bodily waste product exiting through tears and saliva (which if her privates are stained, probably means she's licking down there), this waste product oxidizes when exposed to air, causing a rusty stain visible on light dogs. When you see excessive staining, especially around the eyes, this may mean that your pet may be over-producing tears, which commonly is associated with allergies. Definitely talk to your vet about that, since many of these issues can be handled with a proper diet. But you just adopted your baby, so her past diet may have something to do with what you're seeing now, and your loving care can make a huge difference moving forward! In terms of removing discoloration, there are wipes, and food supplements, and even anti-biotic treatments to help with staining. I'll link some products that clients have liked in the past down below. I also want to mention that many clients have had good results in switching to filtered water given in a clean, stainless-steel bowl. And for the discoloration that came with your pup, you (or your groomer) can also consider clipping out the stained coat so that you can start her out fresh, with a new diet, clean water, and lots of care. 💕 Here are some wipe and supplement options: amzn.to/4jnuTvm, amzn.to/4hibiuA, amzn.to/4gbIVgQ In terms of brushes, I'll share my favorites, but it really will depend on how long you want to keep your Coton. And always check with a metal comb, all the way down to the roots (brushing alone is usually not enough, unless you keep the coat short.) Here are my top slicker brushes for Coton coats: amzn.to/3C3FASZ, amzn.to/4jn7s53, amzn.to/4jn7Bp7. And a basic comb, in case you don't have one: amzn.to/4jn7Bp7. Hope that helps and good luck with your new baby! 🐾💕

Hi Andrea! Your wiggly puppy is very, very common, and the good news is that regular desensitization practices paired with positive reinforcement can get (almost) any dog to sit still enough to be groomed. In fact, Kayla, the model in the video, was a "red-line dog" in a salon I managed, meaning that none of my groomers would touch her because she was so difficult (not aggressive, but VERY jumpy for face and head work). What you're watching is a fully rehabilitated dog, so don't lose hope! 😊 So, my advice is to start touching and handling your puppy around their feet, face, in front of the eyes for short amounts of time, and then reward. Start increasing the amount you handle them, reward. Introduce additional objects, like tissues, wipes, and combs around the face, reward. Make them know how proud you are every time they sit still and let you handle them. Dogs learn, and they love Love, so it can be done. You've got this! Thanks so much for watching and for your question! 🐾😍

¡Gracias! Normalmente uso un calibre n.° 4 o n.° 5 en el cuerpo (3-6 mm) y corto las piernas y la falda con tijeras. ¡Espero que te sirva y gracias por ver el vídeo! 🙏🐾

❤️🐾❤️

Hi there, thanks for your comment! Lol, most groomers are no strangers to a wiggly Yorkie, so you are not alone! Good news is that with a lot of patience, positive reinforcement, and proper techniques, most pups learn to stay still (at least for quick moments). Wishing you good luck on your grooming journey with your little Yorkie! 💕🐾

Hi, love your question! 😍 So, Standard Poodle drying times can vary depending on the thickness and length of the particular coat you are working on AND the equipment you are using, but taking my Rosie as an example (our model in the video), I can fully dry and fluff her in about 20-30 min using a Flying Pig dryer (amzn.to/4075zRs with a stand attachment). That is after a full bath and towel dry. I have other Poodle clients with thicker and longer coats that can take up to an hour (or even longer if there is de-matting involved). Now, as far as the duration of the "fluff", that's a bit subjective, as a Show Poodle person may think a coat has de-fluffed within an hour (in consideration of what they expect for the ring), whereas a pet groomer may see things a different way. For me, as a groomer and as a pet Poodle mom, I see the luscious fluff (what I like to call the "cream puff") for about 3 days, and then I get about 3 weeks of a decent coat appearance before falling into the "homeless street Poodle look", lol! Hope that helps and thanks for your very sweet comment! 💕

@@GinasGrooming This is extremely helpful!! I couldn't find a direct answer on the internet, thank you for your detailed response :) My questions were pretty vague but you've answered them perfectly.

Hi, thanks so much for the feedback, and glad the video was helpful! 🙏Regarding the hydrogen peroxide, great question! So, in the case of cleaning fur around a quicked nail, the nail should already be packed with styptic powder which is protecting and blocking the cut area of the nail. So, sure, you're not flushing out the dog's wound with peroxide, but just cleaning around the fur (and so far, it's the best fur cleaner I have found for this situation). But I am always open to new options, and if I hear of one that works, I will update the channel! Thanks again for your comment, and good luck on your grooming journey! 😍

Yay, how exciting!!! Thanks so much for your comment and have fun with your new Coton baby boy!!! 🐾💕

Hi Jane! Thanks for your great question! Most dog breeds and mixes are NOT candidates for hand stripping. This service is reserved for (mostly) wire-haired breeds that have a very special coat in the pet industry. Think Airedales, Norwich Terriers, Norfolk Terriers, Irish Wolfhounds. A cockapoo has a different type of coat, with the emphasis being on "poo", meaning they are part of the Poodle family, which is a single-coated breed that has a coat that keeps growing (undetermined) and needs brushing and cutting, but no hand stripping. I am thrilled to hear that you are jumping into the industry - and when you start peeling the onion and see deeper into coat types and how to handle them professionally, things get really complex! But I hope this helps, and it inspires me to explain things in a better way. Thank you and good luck on your journey! 🙏💕🐾

😍Oh my, you've got your hands full with Elsa! The dremel story is even funnier having lived similar situations myself and with colleagues! The good news is that you found a groomer that can work with her. As someone who (secretly) works with dogs that are called "ungroomable" (but really just need a bit more patience), the fact that you found someone who is able to sync with Elsa and not give her anxiety about something that is not really that big of a deal (really!) is a wonderful thing. And don't give yourself a hard time - most owners face a similar situation as you. Thanks for your comment, and sending love to your Carolina Cat, lol! 😍

Hi Ina! Thank you so much for your interest! In this video, I'm using Crown Royal Magic Touch #2 (a concentrate you should mix with water in a spray bottle for texturizing curly, dry coats): amzn.to/3PpMbKq, but for brushing, I would also recommend the detangling spray by the same company, which is already mixed and ready to use: amzn.to/3Pl4Gjd. Hope this helps and happy brushing! 😍🐾

You're very welcome! 🙏💕

So kind, thank you! 🙏🐾

You're welcome! I'm happy this video was useful. ❤️

Thank you so much! 🙏 Although not the exact comb (the one I used in the video is no longer available), here's one similar from one of the most reputable brands in the industry: amzn.to/3BZBATl. Hope that helps! 💕🐾

Hi Cynthia! Lol, indeed! If a dog is wiggly, it is very hard to do their nails! Fortunately, with positive reinforcement, I can usually rehabilitate any unwilling dogs to actually tolerate nail clipping and grinding (ok, well 95%), so if you're working with your pet or learning how to groom professionally, don't give up! it gets better! 😊 Thanks so much for your comment!

Thank you so much! 😍

Not sure exactly what you mean, but if there is something I should do to discuss the subject better, I am always open to suggestions! Thanks in advance! 🙏

Hi Leslee! Thanks for your question! My second-to-best advice, considering that you're working with a less-than-willing subject, lol, AND you've got a dewclaw that is at an advanced state, is to get someone to help you (someone your dog knows and can keep her calm while you clip). But a curled dewclaw can be daunting, even for professionals. So, my *best* advice is to pay a little extra and get a veterinarian technician to do it at any local vet asap. I've worked with vet techs for many years, and they are incredibly well-trained to work with strong, unwilling dogs - and they've clipped thousands of nails, so they can do it fast. After that, you can maintain your pup's nails at home or with your groomer. Hope that helps and good luck! 🐾

Hi Suzanne! Although I use a hardier tool in my business, the grinder I recommend for home use is this: amzn.to/4aby2KB. It's safe, quiet, inexpensive, and super easy to use. And although not considered a "professional" product, I field tested a previous model of this same grinder for a year on my clientele and was very impressed. Hope that helps, and please let me know if you're looking for what the professionals use (which will be more powerful, but with less safeguards). Thanks! 😍

So glad our videos are helpful, and thanks so much for your feedback!!! Kisses to your Yorkie and thanks for watching the channel! 🙏💕

Aw, nothing more adorable than a sweetie Akita! Hugs to Dasha, and thanks for watching! 😍

Hi there, sure! My favorite deep cleaning shampoo is amzn.to/3BIT6Lu, but if you need a hypoallergenic formula, this is one of my favorites: amzn.to/4iQliN3. Note that these are professional formulations, meaning that you should mix them with water before using (the deep clean is 50 parts water to 1 part shampoo, the hypo is 32:1), but you can use them directly, no problem. Just be aware that they are highly concentrated, so use just a little bit per wash. For conditioner, I use this from the same company: amzn.to/4gPv0gU. Absolutely luscious, and I use it full strength and distribute it while I work it into the coat. For sprays, take a look at these: amzn.to/4gLHdmX, or amzn.to/3DuypUd. Hope that helps and happy grooming! 🐾💕

Oh no, Ginny, thank you for sharing. 🙏 These unfortunate things happen, just like nicking your own self when shaving. I will always feel bad for cutting a nail a bit too short or for something that caught something in the wrong way. The sweetest thing for me (if I may) is that you reached out and searched for someone else who has faced the same heartbreak. And frankly, it happens to all Groomers, all over the world. Sending you tons of support, and from a fellow friend in the trenches: it's going to be ok. 💕

@GinasGrooming thank you❤️

Gosh, I don't know what I love more: your obvious care for your Poodle (shown by a very interesting and important question), or the fact that you named him Mufasa! 😍 First, thank you for the great content suggestion. I touched upon brushing pressure in our video on brushing Poodles: th-cam.com/video/ZAwCUI3jOuQ/w-d-xo.html, but the subject needs more attention. "On it." 😉 Second, until I can craft a good video release, here's the explanation on paper the best I can: The pressure you apply when brushing will depend on some factors, such as the rigidity of the pins and if they are coated. Groomers will modify the pressure with their wrists, ultimately looking for deep brushing without scraping the skin. You can check any brush you are using by brushing out a longer, silky part of your Poodle (like their ears beyond the leather) and just work that part out while brushing on your hand. You'll be able to feel how that brush will feel on skin. It takes practice, and I can see how on video it would seem that groomers look potentially aggressive in their brushing, but a good groomer should have learned to move their shoulder and forearm in a repetitive and effective fashion while controlling the pressure with their wrists. Gosh, great subject, I really need to think about how to relay this effectively! Thanks for the brain tickle! And good luck with Mufasa! 🐾😊

Thanks Gina. I'll watch the link and keep at it until I'm better at it.

Hi there! It sounds like you are on your way to a great fluff out! A little trick that I do with the Flying Pig when I'm doing a house call and don't have my stand dryer setup is that once I'm ready to dry and brush, I take the hose off completely, put the dryer on an adjacent table and modify the angle of the air by propping a towel under the dryer. If you have a tall table or cart with wheels, you can move the dryer all around, section by section, pretty much like having a stand dryer (I do this all the time). So, to answer your questions: 1) Heat or no heat? I do use heat, usually on setting I, but as long as you are vigilant, setting II speeds up the process and can really help straighten the coat. 2) Brush? I am using my favorite general purpose, inexpensive slicker brush: (a) amzn.to/3ByoGeL, but my favorite Poodle fluffing brush is the Chris Christensen (pricier): (b) amzn.to/49HnQck, and my new favorite Poodle pre-brushing slicker is this guy: (c) amzn.to/3ZxGqPi. For any pro Poodle fluff, I do use all three brushes regularly: Pre-brush with (c), General Purpose and Dematting with (a), and Extra Fluffing and Smoothing with (b). Hope that's not too confusing! But if I had to only choose one, it would be (a). And a metal comb is a must, must, must! Good luck, please keep me posted on your progress! 😊

@@GinasGrooming Thank you! You are so kind to help. I hope you get a kick back if I order from your links? Great tip with the dryer to turn it into a modified stand dryer. THANKS!!

@@mountainstream8351 So glad to help! And thank you for your support, every bit really helps and is greatly appreciated! Happy Holidays! 🙏💕

Thanks for your feedback! 🐾💕

Hi there, my case is 13x11.5x4.8in, and although I bought mine in 2007, it is still avail on Amazon!: amzn.to/4gFv1nw. Hope that helps and thanks for your comment! 😊

Thank u so much! 🙏

Hi Tessa! Thanks for your question! There are so many good professional choices, but a great affordable pro line I like is from Kenchii. Here's a pair of blending shears: amzn.to/41s9kmI, and here are their safety scissors that I use daily: amzn.to/3ZCoGSY. Hope that helps and Happy Grooming! 🐾😍

Hi Jon, lol, I have done the same in the past! Glad the video helped, and thanks 4 watching! 😍

Hi, thanks 4 ur question! It does make a difference to have coated vs. non coated pins on your slicker brush. Here's where I use what: coated for face, ear, butt, (sometimes) tail, and anywhere there is extra sensitivity. Non coated for most body and leg brushing and advanced matting. The coated pins give a great level of protection around sensitive areas, but the little wires of the non coated pins can get in between tight matting and help break it apart. For me, I use both during any given groom, depending on which part I'm working on. Will do a vid about that - thanks for the inspiration! ❤️🙏🐾

Oh gosh, sorry you and your little girl are going thru this! I don't have any clients with the same issue currently, so unf won't be able to film anytime soon, BUT I do have some pointers I can talk u thru. First, try soaking each paw before the nail trim/grind - and I mean soak enough to soften the nails a bit. That should help prevent splitting (and make sure to dry the paws when done). Second, if soaking is too much, try moisturizing the nail b4 grinding with a safe (to lick) oil, like olive oil. This can get messy if not careful, but again should add more elasticity to the nails. Third, look at nutritional supplements (i.e. Omega 3/6) that can infuse your pet with more fatty nourishment internally. With a little extra moisture, you should be able to tackle this issue! Hope this helps, and good luck, your Manchie is lucky to have u (and u her!) 😍🐾

Aw, I love that you are taking it upon yourself to work with your special pup. It's truly for these types of reasons that I started posting videos - so many people need to work with their pets themselves. Good luck in your journey; I'm sure your pup appreciates you for all your extra care. 💖

Thank you so much! 🙏

Hi, what a great question! I have never seen an arm that attaches to a wall, but I think it's an excellent idea! I will keep my eyes open, tho! Thanks 4 your comment! 🐾

Thank you so much! (Danke! ❤️)

Appreciate it! 🥰

Hi there, thank you, I will update the links for sure! As for newer models and a starting kit, we released a video assessing 4 new cordless clipper models in late 2023: th-cam.com/video/fu-T-Bu8_WE/w-d-xo.html, and although we did release a video on a Grooming Starter Kit, I need to update the links on that as well and will get back to you. Thanks for the feedback! 😍

Hi there, great question! Due to hundreds of years of genetic manipulation by humans, many dogs that we see today are so far from their original wolf ancestry that they cannot live in the wild without human care. Dogs today have two main types of coats: a coat that stops growing, and a coat that keeps growing. If you left a Poodle in the wild (with a coat that keeps growing), eventually they would be encased in their own hair, preventing movement and blocking bladder and bowel movements, which typically leads to sepsis and death. On the other end, if you left a short-haired Doberman in the wild, their lack of substantial undercoat and protection from the elements would also not allow this breed to thrive in the wild. But your latter point is valid - for anyone who is not willing to educate and participate in proper coat maintenance for their dogs should choose a breed or mix that is very low maintenance. But even with a low-maintenance coat, we still have to maintain their nail length, ear cleanliness, oral health, and overall wellness. Our pups are something much different than wild animals now; they are our family members, and we maintain their coats, whatever coat type they may be, in the way that keeps them healthy and happy. Hope that answers, thanks for your question!

Have you ever cut your own hair? Nicely explained Gina, but also in response to tensquare, I adopt rescue dogs only and do not pick and do not have the luxury of choosing breed specifics. I adopted a puppy 16 years ago and had no idea what length his coat would be nor was it even a concern (because who cares), if he needed grooming, then groom him, what’s the big deal? I adopted him because he needed a loving home. If a person owns an old English sheep dog as example and decides that it’s unethical to clip that dog and then decides that it’s too time consuming and exhausting having to groom them daily (because that’s what it takes) they would be prosecuted for cruelty. Ever seen an ungroomed long haired dog, plenty to go see in welfare shelters because the owners are not prepared to have their dogs groomed.

Hi, nice to hear from you! Oh no, you've got a wiggly pup (which is common!) But you can usually rehabilitate (most) pups with positive reinforcement and building up the time that you spend doing a grooming task - like face trims. My advice is to just start working on face holds for just a few seconds and then reward when your pup reacts calmly. Then introduce a benign object (like an old toothbrush) to start touching his face with the [toothbrush] while holding the face with the other. Stop, reward, repeat. Some dogs are very challenging (I know!), but there's almost always a way to get through it. Hope that helps and good luck! 🙏

Hi Mikaela, we do, link to follow! Just so you know, I clip this Scottie's coat, but the "correct" way to groom the breed is by hand stripping. I don't strip this particular pup because of a few issues, but mostly because he is highly sensitive to any pulling and can get snappy (just like with the dryer, lol!) That being said, here's the cut: th-cam.com/video/qFibNdR5Mhw/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps and thanks so much for watching! 🐾😊

Yay, I'm so happy to hear that! They are absolutely lovely little dogs, but yes, they sit firmly in the 'regular grooming' category! Love that you are researching and educating yourself before making such a big decision! If you haven't run into it on our channel, here's more of a deep dive on the breed and grooming: th-cam.com/video/NZIhoitAVM8/w-d-xo.html. Thanks so much for your comment and good luck on your pup journey! 🐾😍

@@GinasGrooming hehe, i'd already watched it before the link was sent! it's also a good video :)

Hi there, thanks so much for pointing that out, I will add the link to the video! The brush is called the Miracle Coat, and it's been one of my favorites for a very long time (and it's not expensive!): amzn.to/4ePW3r8. Hope that helps and thanks for your comment! 🙏😊

@ thank you so much!!

I use Chris Christensen slicker brush for Matted dogs, it’s AMAZING! but I’m looking for a good wet brush for when I’m bathing dogs and I’ve coated the dogs with conditioner.

Oops, thought I added them - thanks for catching that! They should all be there in the description now. Thank you so much! 🙏😊🙏

@@GinasGrooming okay thank u 😊

Great question! All blades will become dull at some point and need sharpening. Pro groomers usually have many back up blades for this reason. If you're doing home grooming, your need to sharpen professionally will be rare, but expect to hire a sharpener every few years. Hope that helps! 🙏🐾

You definitely are on the right path - so sorry u ran into uneducated "professionals", lol! You and your Spoo will do great! Such a funny story! 😄