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good point, I ended up making these into pendants so nothing was really wasted

@florencewilliams1785 well seeing that there is a lot of work that goes into them, it would be difficult to put a price on them that would suit both the builder and the buyer, if I had to I would say about $100-$150

@@craftedbytimyt what places or Country U are from .

@@florencewilliams1785 Australia

thanks mate!

Oh OK I'll change my super hero name from "The low voltage human battery" to "generally conductive man" which seem easier to announce anyway

I actually find it fine to work with to be honest, I don't have any issues with it except when using an unreliable power source (like using a bunch of high draw items on the same circuit) which seems to kick in the duty cycle after about 30 seconds of welding or so, but I imagine thats subject to circumstance anyway. For thin material it seems to hold up really nicely perfect for 1mm to 3mm but can reach either side without too much hassle. Hope this helps mate good luck!

Thank you for the review! I'm getting heaps of spatter. I'm trying to weld two 10 mm plates. Maybe my settings have been too low?

@paulsapiano6535 Yeah I would say you probably have low settings, there's a few things you can try to get better penetration and hopefully less spatter, you can change up your gas mix, try universal gas (contains the regular ARGON+OC2 as well as OXYGEN) or even hotter burning gasses like straight CO2 (I haven't had any experience with this but I have heard it welds hotter but may also come with more spatter) or you can try pre heating your work before welding, even a little extra heat can make a difference, best of luck mate!

because of the width of the blade it removes 3mm of material, some blades are thicker and some are thinner, you should always check the thickness of your blade before you start. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment!

That’s what I thought but wasn’t sure. Thanks for the info. I’m a professional chef with lots of knives. I’m going to try this for a Chinese cleaver. Keep up the good work.

@@MC-kb6zp Thanks mate I hope it turns out well for you! Stay safe and happy crafting!

Thanks for your support mate, more coming soon!

Thanks mate, I appreciate the support!

Thanks mate, a lot of work went into this so I'm glad it payed off!

I have to agree. He doesn’t make buckets of content, but what he does make is the best I’ve seen. This man has multiple talents. I would suspect he could have millions of subscribers if…………

Thanks mate, but I have to know, what is the secret? how do I get millions of subscribers? Not that I really think I want that but it would be nice to know... maybe....

@@craftedbytimyt be careful Tim, not all knowledge is good for you...

Thanks mate I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Glad you enjoyed it mate, happy crafting!

Thanks mate, my Dad is currently learning to weld on it and hes getting some pretty decent welds out of it for a novice

I don't believe this is as much of a problem as it doesn't matter if you are pulling or pushing it is always forcing air into one chamber and out of the other.

@@craftedbytimyt I mean when you change directions there's a moment in which the airflow stops. It's probably only a fraction of a second but you can see the flame fluctuate every time

@@jacobopstad5483 that is entirely true yeah, I suppose this is why rotary bellows were so popular, even though they were significantly more expensive and realistically couldn't be made easily

As long as it has a good silica content I don't see why this would be an issue

Thanks mate I appreciate your support, and I'm glad you enjoyed!

Thanks mate I'm glad you enjoyed, this ended up being quite unexpectedly. one of my favorite builds to date!

With my next project being cast in a flask I found that once the flask halves have been packed its easy to lay them face up in an oven on a low temperature to prevent them from cracking and loosing their shape, Thanks for the comment!

They will defiantly mess ya up for a bit, always good practice to wear a respirator when welding but in the case of burning off the zinc, I think doing it outside was the best bet (still had a respirator but I could see were all the burning zinc was sticking to the fire bricks)

That's rough mate, a lot of the time you wont notice the damage until its really bad. On the other note it seems zinc isn't exactly easy to find here in Perth, I've only had a preliminary look at it but to be honest I would prefer to add back tin, just because its nicer to work with when melting down, but it is also pretty hard to find Tin, plus its expensive. Thanks for the comment, and the advice. Happy crafting

Thanks mate I hope you enjoy enough to stick around, but thanks for the comment anyway! happy crafting!

Thanks mate!

That's a good idea I think I'll have to do this when I tackle my next casting project!

@@craftedbytimyt can't remember the exact proportions but I used some clay cat litter as a binder for the sand that I heated and ground into a powder and some very fine sand which I then sieved to make sure no big bits got in then treated it as described earlier in the fire place. Worked well enough to do some nicely detailed castings of train parts. Switched to investment casting after that as I needed even more intricate parts and it was less of a pain to 3D print them then burn that put of the investment in a second hand kiln

what is the price difference between investment casting and sand casting? I've made up some green sand for a future project but investment casting would probably be better, I might have to upgrade at some point

@@craftedbytimyt couple hundred to a couple of thosand dollars depending on how you go about assembling your equipment. Once you have the stuff some of it is reusable elsewhere like small vacuum chamber setup you can also use for lots of other things... You'll need ; a kiln or some other oven capable of reaching and sustaining burn out temp and curing temp for your molds, a whisk and a bowl to mix investment, a flask to set up your waxes in, wax or other material that can burn out, vacuum for degassing investment, a home made set up for vacuuming the molds to drawn metal in(not hard to make) I justified it on the grounds that I got an old pottery kiln on the cheap to do the burn out and curing which I then also used for some ceramics projects. The vacuum came in handy for degassing epoxy on the side and degassing liquid rubber to make nice molds for epoxy items. Once you have everything the price difference comes down to investment powder to maks the mold, the cost of wax for the master, and price of power to cure things. More creative you get the easier the cost is to justify

Thank you so much for all the information, I think I'm going to have to do a lot more reading up before I commit to it but I have found the process super fascinating! I already have a vacuum camber so the main hurdle will be a kiln or oven, but depending on the required temperature I might be able to use a regular toaster oven

Thanks mate!

I'm currently waiting on a new mic because I've had issues with the old one. I've seen microwave pottery kilns but never a microwave crucible for melting metal. Thanks for the feedback

thanks mate I've had a few people say the same thing, perhaps I'll rehash this video when the weather starts to cool off a bit and I get my foundry fixed up

Thanks for the feed back mate I'll try and make the music more suitable in the future, as for your request my propane foundry is down right now, but I will be having a look at it when the months get a little cooler as I have a LOT of metal to process, perhaps I would be able to help you out then (just a little under the pump right now) do you have the name of the font that you like? if you give me that and a size, I have a look for you. Thanks for your comment, Happy crafting!

Thanks, mate. I appreciate the support!

Thanks mate its the encouragement within the errors that keep me going! thanks for the comment!

but possibly closely related to cryptids, its cool though, Australia got all the other stuff

Hey mate, I used a dermal tool with a standard bit in it, however given every thing I have learnt since then there are a lot of other ways I could have done this, but if I were to do this again I would simply use a tungsten carbide tool, a bit more expensive but I would have no trouble cutting into the Damascus. Thanks for the comment mate!

@@craftedbytimyt thanks brother

@@Zamora7 No stress mate, something similar to these: Dremel 3.2mm (9901) Tungsten Carbide Cutter

yes, so the flaps have to cover the holes as best as possible to avoid air traveling backwards, this could also be assisted by adding another piece of wood in the second lower chamber halfway across the outlet valve, this would direct airflow outwards rather than to the other end of chamber.

I try to lower the volume so that I don't loose my pacing but I will try to do better in the future, thank you for your comment!

I used bees wax but you can use food safe resin, Good luck!

Thanks mate I'm glad you enjoyed!

thanks mate there is a lot to learn on this subject, I have started by getting some center drills and some T wrenches. Whenever I tighten a keyed chuck I will always tighten from each side so I know its relatively centered, problem I find with the tail stock of this lathe is that the chuck seems to be too heavy. Thanks for all the info mate. Happy crafting!

Good call!

Cheers mate!

Many thanks mate!