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Jim’s Restoration Shop
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2014
Teaching And showing how to service new projects and completing a full restoration
วีดีโอ
The new parts are here will we finish? 
มุมมอง 6321 วันที่ผ่านมา
The new parts are here will we finish? 
Taking a little closer, look at the motor 
มุมมอง 52428 วันที่ผ่านมา
Taking a little closer, look at the motor 
Adjusting the valves and getting to the hydrostatic transmission
มุมมอง 1763 หลายเดือนก่อน
Adjusting the valves and getting to the hydrostatic transmission
Finishing up on the motor will it start
มุมมอง 4734 หลายเดือนก่อน
Finishing up on the motor will it start
Glad the valve Spring compressor helped u in your restrorshon great job JIM
Thanks for sharing.
Briggs &Stranton Valve Spring Compressor for L head engines Part#19063
Thanks I have ordered that tool and will be on the next’s video this is what can be done when we work together thank you again have a great day
Looks like it should work well! I'm only asking because I'm curious but did you attempt to remove that long pivot bolt from the Briggs & Stratton engine cover? would've saved quite a bit of work if you could've swapped that over to the Tecumseh somehow
@@hester781 yes I did try to remove but it was Loctite or cemented in the cavity that it was located in but thanks for asking
Looks like she'll be a runner! The reason it wouldn't turn the other direction at 2:49 was you were engaging the starter clutch by spending it the other way 👍🏻
Nice work. The big gasket at 11:49 is made that way to help direct airflow over the cooling fins and away from the intake of the carburetor
No one rebuilds on one of those. Engines are not that hard to find. I use a new harbor freight engine, good to go. Saves time, and money.
I just rebuilt 2 of these engines because they are very good and last a long time and not made in china.
If you can show a close up of the price of aluminum I can prob tell you where it came from. Don't throw it away, alot of good parts, at min put the good parts in keep bin. Coil, head, flywheel, bolts, cam, lifters, head etc. I built flat head 5's for many years for kart racing. If you need a particular part I most likely have it, or if you want to sell that engine I may be interested, reach out
It could be resuable but for a pretty penny, you could buy a rebuild kit for it with an oversized piston and get a machine shop to bore the cylinder wall out, but that would cost more than buying a new motor or finding a replacment one.
Good job Jim, I think that's quite a common problem on Briggs engines, I've seen this issue on other small engine channels. Look forward to next episode...
Don’t like the new junk. Rather have the old junk. Ck the gov adjustment .
Great job!! Would like to see a john deere 318 video.. Keep them coming!!
Thank you Jim
Thank you for watching have a great day
Those safety shrouds work better than a bagging system for collecting grass.
Nicely done! A tip for future reference, when rebuilding grease-able spindles you need to remove the inner seals from the bearings otherwise they won’t accept grease and there’s no point in greasing them.
Will I have been down this road before you have your way of doing this project and I have mine I don’t feel like tearing the hydrostatic apart for just a leak I have seen this before and I would rather put on a little bit more than not enough have a great day
5:53 That is entirely way to much sealant applied by Ray Charles. 1/16" bead. Run it down the center of the machined surface. Don't touch it, don't mess with it. One little bead right down the center. When you mate the surface you have a perfect sealant distribution without excess squeeze out, and no chance of any voids being created with cake frosting application. I don't get why the orange "high temp" either.
Will u show how to change transmission filter
Yes the transmission filter is to be shown on our next video
Valve seal on intake valve
Good job Jim, look forward to the next episode..
I would use antiz on every single bolt and shaft period
It’s great to completely rebuild and paint it all back to new standards 😊 People are going to regret not fixing the 90 and 2000 models in top shape again 😮😮😮
It's a thumbs up from me.. Take care of yourself too Jim..
There should NOT be any spacers below the front transaxle bracket where you had to drill out those two bolts. What a lot of people do is remove the bottom two bolts and drill through the about 1/8 inch space between the top and bottom and install a LONG grade 8 bolt through the bottom out the top holes and put a locking nut on it. Makes for a more secure MOUNTING to that bracket. Also those spacers will cause the transaxle to be pitched down in the front. May cause you to have a looser belt because of that. you should take them out and so the transaxle is flush with the bracket.
Thanks for the info on the trans I will be removing the hydro to clean and a new filter then I will be looking at the removal of those spacers see this is why I have this program every one can learn from all the great ideas thanks again have a great day
I agree keep the deck clean and it will last a long time.
I needed to learn how to sharpen the blades on my mowers and this video had some great tips and tricks that others left out. Thanks for this, I'll try to sharpen my blades this weekend!
I'm not getting bored with you Jim.. Keep cool, it's quite hot here in the UK too, 25 degrees ..
5 star work as always
It's a thumbs up from me Jim.. Simon..
Good effort Jim, I think you should ask Father Christmas for one of those manual tyre changing stands this year haha..
Yes that sounds like a great idea
Good job Jim, liked the idea of the spring behind the valve to keep it in contact with the valve lapping tool suction cup..
Good job Jim, look forward to part 2, possibly part 3 & 4 . haha..
Great video and love that you mentioned the oil change on the K46. Fun fact originally from the factory some K46 models came with standard 10w30 oil and since then Tuff torque changed and recommends that the 10w30 be replaced with fully synthetic 5w50.
Thanks for the info have a great day
Jim what happened to your other videos? I was looking for th cub cadet 1050 rebuild.
Some of my videos were deleted don’t know why but it happened but will be doing that project again soon
👍👍👍
Another Great Video. A suggestion ... Add "Cub Cadet XT1 LT42" to the Video Title. I think you would get ALOT more views. AND LIKES for sure. One thing I did not notice is NO GREASE FITTINGS on the factory Spindles. Unless I missed them. If those were greaseable I do not think the rust on the bearings would have been as bad. If they had greaseable spindles I would have removed the INNER COVERS of the bearings and pumped the spindles FULL. might have lasted WAY MORE than just 55 hours if the factory had done that themselves.
Good effort, the electrics in those Chinese scooters often cause issues.. Check all earth connections to the frame and wash all connectors and fuse holders etc with switch cleaner.. Cheers from the UK..
Thanks for the info the customer wants a new carb and that CDI controller because after he got it back it did the same problem so on with the same issue I will update when the problem is solved. And thanks for watching and the info love the UK
@@jamesdepover8719 Ok Jim, thanks for your reply..
Jim I'm with you on sealed bearings but what if you popped out the inside seals exposing the bearings then put a sert on one side and a seep hole on the other to know when you were full of grease. Thoughts? Thanks as always.
I know what you’re saying about removing the shield but why not buy the grease bearing and install them. Remember there is a reason why the sealed bearing are installed because how often is most people going to remove the deck to get at the grease jerk
Also that is why your new equipment is thinking about the maintenance for the long haul
Jim Getting ready to grease my rebuilt cub cadet spindle and I have sta lube moly graph multi - purpose grease part # sl3144. Will that be fine? Thank -you as always.
That grease will be fine but remember that grease was made for open bearings the shielded bearings don’t require a grease because they’re already packed grease in the bearings but otherwise you should be fine thanks for watching and have a great day
Jim I have a question about a lt1045 Cub Cadet. If a spindle pulley is not free spinning which I assume is bad bearings could that cause the belt to jump off when PTO is engaged? Thanks in advance.
Well, you’re in the right correction but there are many different issues. You may want to check out first of all. If you do have bad bearings on the spindle. Remove the belt. Remove the brakes on that pulley to make sure is free now spin it over and see if it is tight or you can feel the bearing being a ratty feeling Next check to make sure that your blades are not being caught up underneath the deck itself and making sure that all the lawn material is removed from the underneath the deck to make sure that it’s not hitting last all check the the belt guides to make sure that they are up to keep that belt on the pulley on the drive that’s coming off of your motor a lot of times that belt with pop off if the guides are not in the place to keep the belt on if you’re telling me that the spindle is not turning that would be my first thing to be checking for the bearings because they probably are tight. Some bearings are grease and some bearings have sealed bearings now if you’ve had grease bearings, the grease on those spindles probably were not greased or if you have a seal bearing they only last so long and then you have to change them out and it’s very simple to do that too so that was a little information that would help you. Without it here for me to diagnose it is kind of hard for me to really point out the problem, but I’m sure that you’re figuring it out very well. Thanks for watching and have a great day
The replacement bearings 6204RS you can get them on Amazon
Thank you for your guidance. I knew you would tell me if I was headed in the right direction. I will check all points you brought to light. Your friend and faithful follower.
Thank you for sharing sir
And thank you for watching have a awesome day
Great video. I went to tuff torq. They only sell the complete unit -no parts, says pre-filled. 7A646084591 mtd model number 618-07207. could not get parts diagram. Unless I am doing something wrong.
5 star 🌟 as always thank you
Job security on the 4 bolts.
You should have explained the importance of the belt for the blades. It’s just like a timing belt. We appreciate all of your videos and the time that you take to explain all the details. Great job.
Great point! Nexts time will take that point and explain and thank you for watching
I hope that you get what you want
You really do a great job!
Jim I have really enjoyed this project as All the projects you do. You know it never fails to amaze me that I learn something new each time. Thanks and keep them coming. You're loyal fan.
Awesome! Thank you!
Please let me know Mitchell's contact information. Thanks in advance. Keep it yellow since it's a John Deere.
Michael Payne 262-902-2766 Racine wi. He has allot of parts to choose from and if he doesn’t have it, he can find it for you and he is very fair with his prices. Tell him I sent ya from Jim’s restoration shop and thank you for watching have a great day
you should put clips of what was wrong with wiring and other stuff because its hard to follow since its been awhile since first videos, i had to stop this video and go back and watch earlier video so i would be up to speed, also maybe go into a little detail about what you found wrong in wiring ,a lot of us would be interested in the fix just a couple of pointers to keep people interested in your videos in my opinion not trying to be negative just trying to make it less frustrating to follow a series thanks for your videos