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You’re hilarious.. love the humour

You might think about getting back on several of your meds your video is piss poor at best Next

Thanks Lee for the details on building a practical miter saw fence. I’ve been thinking about this for years, but haven’t built it, for the reasons you described. Now that I’ve seen your way of adjusting the fence left and right i will finally build one. I like the way you embedded the t track low in front, instead of on top. The in line stop looks perfect (I didn’t know they existed). Much better than a flip down stop for this purpose, IMHO. No need to size the width of your fence to the length of your flip stop. I also like the way that the fence attaches to the saw. I don’t always want the fence attached, so this design is ideal. Thanks too for the reminder to wear a mask when cutting MDF. That stuff makes a lot of very fine dust that no one wants in their lungs. All this to say thanks from your newest subscriber.

Wow ! Se habla español ! Amigoooouuuu 😆

Absolutely frickin fantastic!!! I applaud you, sir. I’ve needed this for a long time.

I’m selling my 12” Dewalt. It’s just so damn big and I have other options for cutting.

I didn’t know Hector Salamanca made woodworking videos

thumbs up for the theatrics

Only one suggestion to anyone making one. I’d recommend using epoxy to fasten your T track. You have little holding especially in MDF with short tiny screws.

Hi, my name is also Lee. Great minds think alike lol. Also the same humor. Loved the video. I’m a tool maker, bike builder and woodworker so I use a lot of shallow draws honestly. However it’s an awesome idea. Me being the anal perfectionist I am I would have put a piece of thin sheetmetal on the front of the drawer. I have sheetmetal equipment so I can lol. Paint finish would have come out better I think. But hey that’s just me 😂😂 good job young man. 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Like it! A lot!

Outstanding idea. Thanks.

Simple and usefull. Oh, did I mention 'funny', yet?

Can’t find it on Apple Apps 🤯

Another thing you can do with this sort of set-up is to stack if you have multiple panels to glue up. Set up the first panel and clamp with a hex nut, set up another piece of strut over he first caull's clamp bolts. Lay in the next panel to glue up and then add another strut and more hex nuts. This way you can glue up a lot of panels without worrying about them shifting or being knocked over by the shop cat. Thanks!!!

Just found this! Great idea on the strut material Lee, although I was always taught that a caul should have a slight almost imperceptible curve to the clamping face that ensures a uniform pressure from the centre outwards across the glue up board as you tighten them down, (flat ones tend to just clamp on outer edges only )so here's an idea, you could always try planing a curve onto a softwood board, then rip it into strips, & cover them with tape or wax, to attach to the struts as a sacrificial non marring glue proof face,

I will never understand people's obsession with ridiculously long fences for their miter saws. Give me all the base support in the world, but long fences are more of a detriment than a feature in my opinion.

Hi Lee. I saw this a couple of weeks ago and filed it in the old memory banks. I now have a need for these and amazingly remembered your video. This is great info. & I love your humor and presentation. Good enough to get me to subscribe. I'm looking forward to seeing more. Tomorrow I'll be busy at my local big box store....

Lee, I LOVE the videos... BUT, I have always been told, when cutting always "maintain control" of the piece of wood that is between any stop and the blade. Control= holding on to, a clamp, push stick, etc. In your vid you are cutting stock with you holding on to the wood on the left side of the blade while showing the the piece of wood between the stop and the blade. The idea is, the piece of wood could easily get bound up and kick out and is the one needing control, while the other side NOT bound and will usually just bump out of the way. I managed a shop that cut stretcher/picture frame molding. We used a system that had two people and two chop/mitersaws independently cutting next to each other. Nothing fancy, just two people with two Makita saws standing next to each other. The saws were about 24 inches part. Standing facing the saws, the one on the left would pre-trim/miter cut the end and then slide it to the person on the right and they would cut it to length using a fence stop block.The person on the right side would have the piece under control because it was between the fence stop and the blade. After 6 years and well over a *million (seriously) cuts we only had 12 recorded kickback moments. Of those 12, 10 were from the person on the right not holding/controlling the block. Take notice I believe of your second cut. As the saw returns to the upright position the piece between your stop block and the blade starts to lift slightly. Of the 10 kickback we had, 7 were from the person letting go after the cut and allowing the saw to return to the upright position, without holding the cut piece in place. Once the blade was no longer in contact with the piece, raising above material, obviously in wasn't a problem. *Million... okay I really didn't count, but during our rush holiday season we would make 30,000+ frames (plus the other 8 months of the year x 6 years). Each frame has 8 cuts... that my friend is a LOT of miter cuts!!! Soooooo, if I'm wrong... PLEASE correct my thinking on this one!!!

smart, practical and entertaining tutorial

😂😂😂😂

We know "Ted kind of business" since 1999! But never buy from him yet. Probably he catched you? 😂😂😂

The answer is simple it FOR Gorillas! Pice of cake! 🎉

Extremely helpful, thank you! I bought one several months ago and still haven't used it, because the instructions (IMO) are pretty bad, and I've finally figured tonight that I'm missing the clamping bolts. So it's off to the hardware store in the morning. It amazes me how little effort companies put into developing their assembly instructions. A simple series of sessions of asking people (who've never seen the product before) to assemble the product using the instructions would work wonders. I have a few other suggestions for Jessem if they're interested.

I was about to be an idiot and correct you but I learned to Google things before putting my foot in my mouth. I've known this system as Unistrut but Unistrut is just a different brand. Another viewer recommended the 1 5/8 profile system which would definitely be much more rigid. Something to keep in mind on wider thicker glue-ups. Very good idea though. I loved the ending!

Love your entry, was funny, great job

Fantastic, well done. Dave & The Girls

fun idea! When I need to do repeatable cut in carpentry I just put scrap 2x4 stop and tied it down with standard clamp that comes with this miter saw. For long sizes the stop is built in in your support bracket that extends from the saw or saw wheeled stand. ;)

Great video and an even better idea I have all of the parts yo make one so that is my next project thanks for this great idea and build, Keep them coming.

Hey Lee, I saw a comment from you on a video by the Worst Workshop and your subscribe video was playing. As soon as it got to the "Arms on an Angel" cut, i broke my mouse smashing the subscribe button. Cheers!

You got it Lee, those short drawers are a waist. Good solution !

When I saw your cover picture, a light bulb went on. I don’t have this saw, but i have other uses. You’ve made a portable t-track! I can attach this to my work table, my table saw, etc and put clamps and stop blocks wherever I need them! Good job.

Great idea..... Where do you find straight lumber?🤣😅🙄🙄 But, seriously, where do you buy your T track? It's very expensive

It’s “easy” to throw money at a problem. It’s brilliant to get quality result with limited resources! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Great video jammed packed with tips and tricks, love it! Don't own a miter saw but couldn't a track-saw track be used??? they do have T slots...

I have that same saw with that same base and have wanted some convenient way of setting up stop blocks that remained portable. I love this! I wonder if there's a way to rig up a holder on the bottom side of the base that would store the rails when the saw is folded up. The tricky part would be making sure it didn't interfere with the scissor mechanism.

Nice

And portable, hell yeah. Sold on this!

The stuff in your hands is not “Superstrut” You used “Thin-strut” or Unistrut, which is indeed flexible. You shouldve use “Super-Strut” or “Deep-Strut”.

Hello from Canada Lee. Just a quick Thank You for this great idea. So simple and so cheap compared to Rockler clamps. Keep up the amazing, educational, easy to follow , and fun videos. And thanks for all you do for us newbie wood workers.

Downloading it now. I just found 1970's manuals my dad had saved for tools he didn't have!

Perfect descriptions of other "alters". Perfect reenactment of me trying to attach the problem fence to the saw😅😅😅

Love this video. Sorry bromigo wife got ya beat lol

Nice tips, don Hector!

I will be 100%building that exact same project today absolutely fantastic build.. thank you 👌👍❤️🦫🇨🇦

Excellent idea and excellent video, but it looks like the slot shaped holes in the super strut would fit bar clamp bars much like the single position wood cauls, and work way better than bolts and wingnuts. What I'm saying is maybe you're a genius and just don't know it. Thanks for the idea(s)! 😊 👍

Was that a Van Halen cover song during the ruler demo?

They are well over $600 in the UK just for the saw. He has done a review on the Dewalt. Not good!

wow, thats an awesome idea. you can consider it copied, thanks for sharing