วีดีโอ

This may be the valve guides, not the valve chain. Is there some smoke coming out of the exhaust when reving the engine? When the valve guides wear out, the valve stems start to slap against them as the valves move up and down, and oil gets past the valve stem seals and into the combustion chamber. I don't have a video for changing the valve guides as it requires some specialized tools so it would be best to take off the cylinder head and give it to a machinist.

Best thing to do is to check it, you only have to take off the fuel tank and 3 bolts from the valve cover.

@@rikpatrik1528 the part number? You don’t Google part numbers, you look at your machine’s parts diagrams here sparepartsfinder.ktm.com/

Thank you so much

Much appreciated!

much appreciated!

I've never seen one but the KTM basket is already drilled full of so many holes and lightened up I wouldn't see how someone else could make a lighter one. You don't want to make these out of aluminum due to all the fingers sticking out that are supposed to hold the entire clutch in place.

No, never heard of them, and never have seen issues with mine... that whole area is bathed in oil. For those to fail you would need really shitty and overheated oil for long periods of time. I'd just keep the oil fresh and not worry about them.

Good to know. I’m just about to tear my engine down to replace a potential bent con-rod. Trouble is I can’t put the engine to TDC, what would you recommend?

@@lukesancasciani can't put it into TDC because of the bent conrod? Well if you're replacing the conrod you're gonna be tearing down the engine completely down to splitting the crankcase as you'll need the crankshaft out. I think KTM wants you to put the engine into TDC to make things easier to tear down and also to keep things in place in case you're putting it back together before splitting the case. That way the timing components can only go in one way (which is mostly what we need TDC for). You might have a problem pulling out the wrist pin if it's not accessible in the piston's current position... There's also the possibility of sliding the cylinder up and off of the piston without attempting to remove the piston from the rod. Use lots of heat and lube on the cylinder and you should be able to slide it off. Put some rags around the case opening so when you pull off the cylinder, the piston doesn't smash into the case and chip or break anything else.

That all makes sense, I think! Is there anything I can do to make re-assembly easier if it’s not the con rod but something in the top end instead? Until I start to tear it down it’s impossible to say 100%. The bike won’t turn over even in 5th gear after taking an unexpected swim in a deep river crossing.

@@lukesancasciani I mean you're gonna have to get it into TDC for reassembly because you need to assemble the timing just so - the timing chain, the main gear on the crank, with the cam gears, the valves, etc. If it's all off by one tooth, it's all wrong. Even the balancer shaft, which shares the same shaft as the water pump, has a TDC mark since it's designed to dampen engine vibrations via the counterweight. So once you're done doing whatever you're doing - top or bottom end - get the engine into TDC starting from the bottom. So rotate the crank into TDC, and lock it with the TDC screw without the washer. Make sure the balancer/water nyno shaft is in TDC if you removed that. Then you need to get the timing chain over the camshaft while installing the cam into the head matching the TDC dots. That should just about cover putting your engine back together and having the crank and valves moving in the right order... but I would look at the repair manual for whatever bike you have for the specific TDC procedure...

Honestly it can go both ways. There are two contact patches, the valve shim and valve stem, and the valve seat and valve face. The valve shim/stem interface can wear because of the contact between the two, damaged or bent valve stems, and other stuff. The valve seat/face interface can expand because of carbon, or it can contract due to wear of the seat or face (or maybe both can happen at the same time). End of the day the only way to find out is to open it up and measure!

2-stroke expansion chambers are thin. I would take my sweet time and underfill it. Thaw and increase the water level incrementally...

Подарок!

yeah it's print.ktm.com/

@@SilkRider thanks for your fast response SilkRider, I must say, it's the first time some ever reply to me. You deserve a 🥇 my friend.

Yeah for sure. That rubber at the air filter edges should go direct to the hose clamp attaching to the throttle body. There should be no holes or gaps there, otherwise it’s damage or wear. If you have that you should replace the bellows. Removing it requires disassembly of all plastic attached to the subframe including the battery tray holding the electronics under the seat. Not difficult just take pics before disassembly for easier reassembly. Upon removing the bellows you could also have free access to duct tape it up as a temporary and cheap fix. As long as it’s sealed well…

You also have to remove the lower subframe bolts and the lower shock bolt to be able to tilt the subframe up or remove the subframe completely to remove that bellows. Also not difficult once you’ve stripped down all the plastics.

I had to do it for myself and figured there's no reason I shouldn't post it for everyone else 🤷‍♂

sounds almost exactly like my ritual

Dude, with the 10-15 oil and air filter services for the life of the bike and regular chain lubing, I have almost no issues for 7 rally raids over the years all over 5 days long. I like to start a rally with a new or almost new chain and sprockets with minimal wear, then I do the 10 hour services almost every day if I hit the 10 hour mark. Never have had to change a clutch either. The one thing I do usually have to change at a rally is the chain slider in the swing arm 🤷‍♂️

Hi! Stacking feelers is exactly what we do. This is a precision instrument, and the feelers are meant to be mixed and matched to get the size you need. So I’m always using 2 feelers, preferably close by - so 0.9 and 0.7 for 0.16. The one I have has 0.15 and 0.10, then 0.01 increments down. Get them at any place selling tools.

Must be an update for the newer bikes! This is a 2020 bike. Good on you for checking the bike specific to your manual!

That front rim is 1.60

Thanks a lot, I need it

Hey yea it’s crazy, we actually had to make them for this rally! I had more videos on the subject here ⤵️ th-cam.com/video/ktKBXx2gIZ4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EIzcT8YlgH-fjy_o th-cam.com/users/shortsz0WRa2cOu8M?si=jxhGfvS-IGDz-X1f

Haha as a mechanic you have no idea how much I’m honoured to hear that 😊 That’s why I made this video!

If I need to convince you that I’m doing it like this with a new tire and mousse I’ll try to make a video at Rallye du Maroc, as I’m on my way there now!

But I won't be using 90/90-21 tyres any more.? wich tyre / mousse would you use now? ere the dedert race tyres not to slippery when raining? regards

@@jacintovanderhoeven4371 there's no point in getting this tire/mousse combination unless you're racing in a rally or riding cross country off-road. They're not for pavement, and not for wet pavement.

Depends on how fast you wanna go. I tried with 1 repeater at Sonora on the CAP and odo screen and it’s too small to glance at at high speeds or in dunes. So I got the second repeater so each one is dedicated to CAP and odo in the biggest font and as close as possible to eye level.

Thanks for the response@@SilkRider I'll look at going for the two! It'll be my first time with a speedocap, can they run independent of the unik so I can convert the bike to just two speedocaps? Not much info online

@@tcrossau you have to pay for the Evo version which is even more expensive to work independently from Unik. There’s also an adapter power cable, it’s all on the ERTF site

Just got my hands on the UNIK4 kit, any chance you did a final build of the Plate? Willing to make a second one and ship it out this way, would be awesome if that's possible. @@SilkRider

@@tcrossauyes check the last few videos on my Instagram silk.rider and I also posted a TH-cam Short here. What race are you doing? I barely had time to make one for myself plus a spare. We will make more when we get back in November…