great stuff... thanks.. ( havent had to do this, yet... ) eons ago, i overhauled a `61 zundapp 250cc super sabre... did crank bearings, etc.. old bearings literally fell out in the oven, ( onto cookie sheet) zundapp parts for this one- even in the 60s, were made of " unobtanium" so, re-used the piston... thing still runs.. ( on sundays) again, thanks...
Friendly advice. Don't heat the bearings direct with flame, or at least don't heat them up, at the point of becoming blue (over 120 C = 250 F), as you did with the inner races. You are affecting the surface hardness of the metall, thus you are lowering the life expectancy of the bearing.
I prefer heating my bearings in general with a heat gun. And even without a thermometer there is a secret. You can squirt some engine oil on them as soon as the oil evaporates you are in a good temperature. Another thing that sometimes I do is just spit on the bearing (I know I am disgusting) and if boils emediately you know you have reached 100 Celsius. For inner races thought since there is so much aluminium that conducts the heat really fast you can first heat the tool with the torch and after grab the ring. I think that this is also the way KTM shows in the manual.
The spacers under the crank races, right? No they shouldn’t move. They have a larger diameter than the crank pin, so what you have to do is put them in place and centred, and fix them in place with a few dabs of grease. Then you heat your tool and race, hot enough so it goes over the bearing seat with no force, press it down onto the spacers for maybe half a minute till it cools enough that it’s set. It should be flush against the spacers.
Hi there, I just watched all of your engine videos, I just got a 2014 xc-f and when changing the oil the magnet had what looked like a piston ring, but with ridges on it. Do you have an email i can send the video and pics i took of it? I sent it to some engine builders, but no one around here works on ktms. I looked over the repair manual and watched your videos to see if i saw what part it is that is busted up. Thanks for the videos.
Haha 4 hours not enough mate? 😁 That’s it for now I covered all the interesting bits. To do it proper just get the service manual. The videos are there just to show the process and to prepare for it before diving in yourself…
great stuff... thanks.. ( havent had to do this, yet... ) eons ago, i overhauled a `61 zundapp 250cc super sabre... did crank bearings, etc.. old bearings literally fell out in the oven, ( onto cookie sheet) zundapp parts for this one- even in the 60s, were made of " unobtanium" so, re-used the piston... thing still runs.. ( on sundays) again, thanks...
Friendly advice. Don't heat the bearings direct with flame, or at least don't heat them up, at the point of becoming blue (over 120 C = 250 F), as you did with the inner races. You are affecting the surface hardness of the metall, thus you are lowering the life expectancy of the bearing.
Thanks, I figured that colour wasn’t the best. But I couldn’t get them off any cooler. I guess it’s a fine line. How else would you do it?
I prefer heating my bearings in general with a heat gun. And even without a thermometer there is a secret. You can squirt some engine oil on them as soon as the oil evaporates you are in a good temperature. Another thing that sometimes I do is just spit on the bearing (I know I am disgusting) and if boils emediately you know you have reached 100 Celsius. For inner races thought since there is so much aluminium that conducts the heat really fast you can first heat the tool with the torch and after grab the ring. I think that this is also the way KTM shows in the manual.
An electric stove is the best way.
No problem whatsoever on the inside of the inner race, as long as it’s not gotten to hot where the rollers contact it’s fine.
Are those spacers supposed to move after the new race is installed?
The spacers under the crank races, right? No they shouldn’t move. They have a larger diameter than the crank pin, so what you have to do is put them in place and centred, and fix them in place with a few dabs of grease. Then you heat your tool and race, hot enough so it goes over the bearing seat with no force, press it down onto the spacers for maybe half a minute till it cools enough that it’s set. It should be flush against the spacers.
Hi there, I just watched all of your engine videos, I just got a 2014 xc-f and when changing the oil the magnet had what looked like a piston ring, but with ridges on it. Do you have an email i can send the video and pics i took of it? I sent it to some engine builders, but no one around here works on ktms. I looked over the repair manual and watched your videos to see if i saw what part it is that is busted up. Thanks for the videos.
Sure send it to tech at silkrider dot eu
Kitchen mecanic
Any more videos on the engine rebuild?
Haha 4 hours not enough mate? 😁 That’s it for now I covered all the interesting bits. To do it proper just get the service manual. The videos are there just to show the process and to prepare for it before diving in yourself…
Electric heat gun and a digital temperature reader. Peace on dirt
Hi