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Funnel shark! Yes. I like that!

Thanks!

Thank you! I spent a lot more time on the funnels than I had wanted to.

Thank you!

Thanks! The music comes from the TH-cam audio library which makes your description... accurate.

Thanks!

There will be a great many.

I was not making videos when I built the USS NC model, so I can't show you the process for that ship specifically. In general the process is the same for any ship with disruptive camouflage, you can see me following it here in one of my very early videos: th-cam.com/video/Xb59207KQMY/w-d-xo.html

Thank you!

Thank you! You are very kind. Roma is particularly good looking in this camouflage pattern. It was very tricky to paint but well worth it.

In the next video I will show how I redid the funnels.

These are not the cables for the funnel stays, those will be installed later when I do the rigging. You can see these cables being used to hoist platforms in this picture: www.hmshood.org.uk/hoodtoday/models/tips/side40.jpg

@@DavidsShips aye. I stand corrected.

It shouldn't be too much longer before it is complete, probably the first quarter next year.

My model has 8 red stripes. The photos I have seen of Roma all have 8 red stripes, I am not sure where you get 9, or 7 from.

That is annealing. My concern is that would make the part overly delicate.

@@DavidsShips "That is annealing" exactly. You could test on a sample from the sprue

Not really. It is one of those things where you have to fully commit to know if it will work.

@@DavidsShips I'm not sure to understand well. I thought about cutting a part of the plate where the photo edge parts are attached to check if annealing it is ok before doing it on the grill itself. Anyway, good job and as I said your efforts have paid.

Thanks! I can't say I loved it...

I would expect that to make it impossibly delicate.

@@DavidsShips Yeah you have to be careful. I would not apply heat for more than a second or two on each side

Thank you. I hope the videos are helpful.

You will see in the next few videos when I make all kinds of modifications to the funnels. It would have been a lot easier to do without having to avoid the delicate photo-etch on top.

"One inadvertent bump and the whole thing is ruined." Perhaps I should make that the description for my channel...

I have never seen one of those before. I can see how that could work quite well. Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks!

More to come in the next video.

Thanks!

It is! It is nice to no longer be stuck on the forward superstructure.

I have been inconsistent with how I have painted handrails over the years. If I were to paint a ship like you described I would paint the handrails in the colour of the superstructure. I think that would give the cleanest look because there would be a clear line dividing the colours. When it comes to disruptive camouflage, I tend to paint the handrails in the lightest predominant colour of the superstructure. On the USS North Carolina model I painted the handrails in the colour of the superstructure behind them and they blend in very well, too well, they become hard to see. This is mostly a problem because the deck is also very dark.

Thank you for the quick reply.

More like late May.

It is nice to have moved on to a different area of the ship.

@@DavidsShips I'm sure it is !

I am glad what I am doing is helpful. This kit is going on a lot longer than I anticipated because of all the modifications. I expected it to be done in under a year! Perhaps these builds are marathons but I have lost all concept of that. I have been building battleship models for 15 years now with the only "quick and simple" model being the Schwerer Gustav. Even that took 4 months to complete. To me a year long build feels normal. The Type VII C/41 is going to be quite different for me. Perhaps 2 months, or even 1 month. I plan to go elaborate on its camo but it is so small.

Superglue won't dissolve paint so you don't need to worry about that. It's the plastic cement that dissolves paint.

Thanks! Those magnifiers have become a go to tool. I now use it almost every time I work on the model.

That is good to know. It will be my first submarine.

Thank you! If you want to see how it is done, and potentially acquire the skills, take a look at my build series. HMS Hood is my current build: th-cam.com/play/PLsONiwAggxt5s9ycmmWli7P7hpe9Ji2_R.html

Ah! That makes sense. I plan to build the kit as U997. I am not sure how I am going to paint that camo.

It will be full hull. It being a submarine is already enough of a change for me. Whenever someone mentions a submarine diorama my mind always goes to an empty patch of ocean... or just a periscope.

@@DavidsShips Can't wait to see you start! When will Hood be finished? In two weeks or so? 😅

Perhaps in two months with videos to come for some time after that. I have Micro Master parts for all the boats and AA guns so that will speed things up a lot.

@@DavidsShips I suggest watching some Boxman builds. Specifically his Yamato build. Quite a funny joke about submarine builds there. He's got...quite a different take on his content though. You've been warned 😂

@@CrisstheNightbringer I have seen his videos, they are quite funny. I do wonder if he is an inexperienced as he makes himself out to be. I think he could actually be quite experience and be making a parody channel.

HMS Hood is taking a lot longer than I thought it would because of all the modifications. I actually though HMS Hood would be one of the quicker builds when I started.

@DavidsShips i thought the same thing when I started my current project. I'm building the USS North Carolina and, while being a beautiful ship, the kit has some issues that have to be corrected. It's the old Trumpeter kit. I'm about 3 months into the project that I expected to be done in 2 months.

I think it will be a nice change of pace. The kit is so small, I think it will go by quickly.

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks!

I hope the series is finished before you catch up to me!

I used the paints as indicated in the manual for the kit. You can find images of the relevant information here: drive.google.com/drive/folders/17gnUK19c6mGrTRhsaO1u0KuwgubiRo7r

I have been very impressed with Micro Master's parts. The detail is amazing.

@@DavidsShips We are getting spoilt by the after market companies, someone nowadays can do a build using only the basic kit parts (hull, deck, superstructure) and easily replace all the fittings, main and secondary guns, AA guns, antennas, masts etc with aftermarket. It is a great time to be a ship modeller.

That is true. I feel like I am cheating when I use Micro Master parts. Getting a fully assembled AA gun or boat out the box with extreme levels of detail feels too easy.

That is great to hear! What are you planning to build?

@@DavidsShips I picked up pit road/fly hawk 1/700 IJN Kagero. It has a little photo etch for me to try out. I’m worried about the scale but am extremely impressed by the detail.

It will be quite small. It will close to the size of the 1:350 scale Type VII submarine I recently bought.

@@DavidsShipsyour right, it is tiny and the photo etch is even smaller. I should have gone to a larger scale like 1/350. Oh I soldier on and see what I can do. One technique I took from your videos already is using a wire to apply glue. Cheers

Indeed it does!

If you are too far along for the upgrade kit that I have you could get something simpler. Handrails, radars, and cranes can be added late in the build and will make a big difference.

Once you've built a ship with a detail upgrade kit there is no going back to building kits without them. They make such a big difference.

Thank you!

Thank you! I painted over it because I did not coat the area with a gloss varnish before I applied the panel liner. As you suspected, the panel liner had stained the matt paint and no amount of solvent would remove it.

@@DavidsShips thanks so much. I newer to model making so I appreciate technical knowledge